Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

#57182

Hello,?

If you’re finding that the magnets are part of the problem, try to insert a rod made of a durable, stiff, non magnetic material e.g., carbon fiber on one side first. It's easier to lines up the other shaft/holes when one side is still in place... or is in place again.

I had the same experience, albeit having removed only one of the two long screws rather than both. Had to wiggle the screw around again and again for quite a while to get it aligned with the far side hole.

Kind regards,
Alan

Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

#57181

Re the extra tapped hole in the front end cap, I made up a small plate in aluminium sheet to fit the recess and aluminium brazed it in with low-melt alloy rods. I was using a Mapp gas torch so had to be pretty quick before the end cap melted but it's in and it's holding the motor just fine. As for screws, I too struggled for a little while but soon found a way around it. Just wish I could remember what it was (old age and decrepitude . . .?

)?

Clive

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, 19 Nov 2021 1:42
Subject: [Unimat] 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

I purchased two 150 watt scooter motors. I removed the front end cap and was planning to drill and tap a hole in the end cap to allow mounting of the Unimat motor bracket but found there is not enough material thickness in the area I need to place it. I want to reassemble the motor end cap and am having difficulty inserting the long screws do to having to struggle past the strong permanent magnet. Does anyone know a good trick to get past the magnets so I can screw the motor housing back together?
Dick
--
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?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
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Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57180

The nominal speed of CNC spindle motor is with no load.
When mounted on the lathe, due to friction losses, maximum speed will be less; I don't know how much, maybe 80% from specification.
NapierDeltic

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57179

From what I have tested, with my current belts, because of centrifugal force, torque tension and their elasticity, they start loosing grip from about 5000 rpm above (not completely but not desirable).
Anyhow I intend to use the lathe at much lower speeds.
NapierDeltic

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57178

On Fri, Nov 19, 2021 at 04:17 AM, NapierDeltic wrote:

At 24V I have 6000RPM which is not much.

The motor I use is about 4300 rpm, which gives me a highest speed of 6000 rpm at the chuck. This is usually enough for me, although I might like to try it a bit faster if I found a suitable motor. However, I would want to stick to 24 V DC.max.

Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

#57177

For the tapped hole, make up a plate to fit in the end cap and tap it M5 in the right place, or just tap a round (or square) piece that will go in and stick it with double sided tape. It will stay until the screws are done up, and with decent tape, it won't fall off for a long time.

As for the long screws, I didn't, but I would, grind a blunt point on the screws. That will make it much easier to locate them. I can't remember what I did.? think I just fiddled about till they were in the right place.

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57176

I have identified it to be from this family of motors:

Product parameters

Spindle motor: Electrophoresis black DC brush motor

Working voltage: 12-48vdc

Power: 200W

Starting current: 5A

Starting current: 20A

Speed: 3000-12000r/min (12v-3000rpm, 24v-6000rpm, 36v-9000rpm, 48v-12000rpm)

Torque: 280MN.?m

Insulation resistance: > 2 megohm

Dielectric strength of insulation: 400V

Diameter: 52mm

Motor body length: 80mm

At 24V I have 6000RPM which is not much. Anyhow I have the controller and pulley reduction is a must for torque increase at low speeds - not only for this motor.
I have bought it from a local supplier with a price correspondingly higher.
?
NapierDeltic

Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

#57175

Put the end with the screws on first holding the screws in. And then just put the other end on over the screws.

?Jeff

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thu, Nov 18, 2021 8:42 pm
Subject: [Unimat] 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

I purchased two 150 watt scooter motors. I removed the front end cap and was planning to drill and tap a hole in the end cap to allow mounting of the Unimat motor bracket but found there is not enough material thickness in the area I need to place it. I want to reassemble the motor end cap and am having difficulty inserting the long screws do to having to struggle past the strong permanent magnet. Does anyone know a good trick to get past the magnets so I can screw the motor housing back together?
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/?OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI- LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

#57174

I purchased two 150 watt scooter motors. I removed the front end cap and was planning to drill and tap a hole in the end cap to allow mounting of the Unimat motor bracket but found there is not enough material thickness in the area I need to place it. I want to reassemble the motor end cap and am having difficulty inserting the long screws do to having to struggle past the strong permanent magnet. Does anyone know a good trick to get past the magnets so I can screw the motor housing back together?
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

Re: SL U-90 Motor Wiring

David

#57173

Success! I got the winding out after a little swearing and grunting. My Grandma Louise used to say "You gotta say sh*t and then it works."

Next I need to figure out the best way to replace the wiring, as there's no obvious solder joints for the power cord.

Thanks to everyone who gave me suggestions/ideas.

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57172

Can you give more details of your spindle motor, and where it came from? I'm particularly thinking of the speed ranged, since many of these spindles are high-speed, some very high speed.

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57171

400-500W CNC DC brushed spindles are ubiquitous and cheap.
Motor usage on a lathe is much less than on a CNC machine so it should be fine.
--
NapierDeltic

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57170

My controller I think is this:

Hope I'm not breaking any rules.

It is rated 400W max and it? should be easy to find as it is made in China.?
Anyhow, the bigger you find, the better (safety margin to avoid unpleasant surprises). And as I said, power source /controller could be universal for your workshop so go bigger; maybe 36V/20A or even more ( If you go towards CNC or whatever).
--
NapierDeltic

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57169

开云体育

Thanks for your post Napier.?

?

I’m in Australia and this is my first post.

?

Could you provide some detail of your speed control box for the spindle motor.

?

I have a 200w DC motor (200v) from a massage machine mounted on my SL but I’m looking for motor replacement options on my Unimat 3 lathe which is very under powered.

?

Thanks

?

John

?

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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of NapierDeltic via groups.io
Sent: Friday, 19 November 2021 7:11 AM
To: NapierDeltic <m.mastacaneanu@...>; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

?

--
NapierDeltic

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57168

--
NapierDeltic

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

#57167

Hi ,
Sorry, I think I have compressed too much my pictures.
I'm just at the beginning. Here is my setting (and chest of treasure :) . It is a quick/ easy made combination of bamboo coffee tray an laptop desk, with a thick aluminum plate above.? ?Intention is to add a mill column setting and maybe other add-ons on a rigid setup.
Motor is 200W at max 48V, powered by a 24 V power source and PWM? circuit with a bi-directional switch.? The power source might be used for various consumers and will be upgraded if necessary. The motor is fitted through a thick aluminum flange designed to align the pulleys. The motor pulley is copied after original (which is saved as is) and designed to fit ER11 adapter diameter, being tightened by the ER11 nut. Maybe in future I will add a set screw on pulley and use ER11 side for additional functions such as grinder, power plug for flexishaft... The motor is running very smooth and quiet down to very low RPM of the spindle.
--
NapierDeltic

I am sorry for pictures . I get this error when trying to add:?SyntaxError: Unexpected token < in JSON at position 2

Maybe I'll try to put them later.

Re: SL U-90 Motor Wiring

#57166

David, I'm an old aircraft mechanic, though I started mechanicing long before I enlisted in the USAF. I was taught by the Air Force aircraft maintenance instructors that we couldn't fix the aircraft if we didn't cuss them. Sweating was also required, and the occasional sacrifice of blood, as well. Seems to me to be true for any other form of maintenance, too. I've done automobiles, some lite photographic equipment, micro & mainframe computers, and several kinds of appliances, home and industrial, as well as satellite communications equipment. My kids swear that if dad didn't bleed on it, it's not fixed. :)

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Thursday, November 18, 2021, 08:25:13 AM CST, David <dplass@...> wrote:

Thanks for the tips. I will attempt sweating and cursing to get it out. :)

Re: SL U-90 Motor Wiring

David

#57165

Thanks for the tips. I will attempt sweating and cursing to get it out. :)

Re: SL U-90 Motor Wiring

#57164

Good afternoon,

I found the windings to be a very tight fit in the case, a penalty of being originally installed on a press I presume.

The previous postings on this thread show every detail of the internal wiring. If all the wiring has been disconnected may I suggest that the?
windings are stuck in the case. I just got hold of them and pulled whilst wiggling it from side to side, pushing it back in occasionally.
After a suitable period of sweating and cursing it came out.
Using a Dremel multitool and a grinding wheel I then smoothed out the inside of the case until the windings gently went back in.

kindest regards,

David

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject

#57163

Welcome Mihal! You bring up some good points. I have also considered the spindle motors as a potential replacement on my DB200. I and others would love to see pictures of and learn more details about your retrofit.?

Best regards.?

k. groenke
person - make - object

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On Thu, Nov 18, 2021, 5:35 AM NapierDeltic via <m.mastacaneanu=[email protected]> wrote:

--
NapierDeltic

Hi, this is my first time writing here. Thank you for all info available on this forum-really loved it.
What I don't understand is : on much bigger lathes - as Sieg C3 is under various names - owners try to fit smaller motors (not only) and in unimat SL's case they try to fit oversize motors, while the main primary advantage of SL is compactness.
Many people try to adapt brushless RC motors with the advantage of good torque, easy control, good speed range, reversibility and cooling. In the range of 100-200W you might find a lot of options (opting for a bigger/ more solid mechanically variant).
As I am concerned, I have chosen the middle way, adapting a CNC spindle motor. They are cheap and can be found in 100-200W range, powered by standard power supplies,? controls are also available, they are fit to purpose in my opinion. Their size is comparable to original or smaller and top speed 6-9-12 000 RPM is further reduced through original pulley train.
Mihai