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Re: VTG UNIMAT SL DB 200 LATHE - $465 (Portola district, San Francisco)

 

On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 09:14 AM, Dave Seiter wrote:
The cosmetic condition is Exc/VG?!? Not in my book; i'd say poor/average at best.? Using this one as a yardstick, my SL is better than new!
Agreed. I'd say the cosmetic condition shows it has been left in a damp atmosphere for many years. The chuck is a cheap and nasty die-cast one from the so-called Unimat-1, so not good for much. The handwheels are OK and the steel parts seem to be clean enough. It suggests the machine has been used.

My 1970s SL was in much better condition, and it never had any special care. It was also much better equipped. Not sure what price I would have sold it for. I paid ?250 for a U3 that had obviously been used for about ten minutes before being put away. I could see a gouge in the chuck where someone had obviously turned it on without checking where the tool was, and seemingly not used again. No rust, good paint, motor working on fast & slow, and very clean, apart from the mark on the chuck, which was not a functional problem.


Re: VTG UNIMAT SL DB 200 LATHE - $465 (Portola district, San Francisco)

 

The cosmetic condition is Exc/VG?!? Not in my book; i'd say poor/average at best.? Using this one as a yardstick, my SL is better than new!

-Dave

On Sunday, November 21, 2021, 10:10:58 PM PST, Neil Morrison <neilsmorr@...> wrote:


Cosmetic condition is Exc/VG. There is some paint wear on top of the tailstock. Please expect some age related issues from at least 50 years of use and shop rash. See photos.

Local Pick up, cash only.



Neil
-----


VTG UNIMAT SL DB 200 LATHE - $465 (Portola district, San Francisco)

 

Cosmetic condition is Exc/VG. There is some paint wear on top of the tailstock. Please expect some age related issues from at least 50 years of use and shop rash. See photos.

Local Pick up, cash only.



Neil
-----


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

Between $200-$300 sounds good, but the $327 in shipping looks not so good. Think I'll pass.

Got to watch eBay & Amazon now, too, because sometimes they do that as well.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, tabetween ke orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Sunday, November 21, 2021, 09:39:05 PM CST, Neil Morrison <neilsmorr@...> wrote:


Did some searching and found this:?

Not sure how it helps yet but too cheap to not grab one.

Neil
-----


On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 7:29 PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:
Looks like a good possibility to me. I'm in the process of trading off my Mini-Lathe, but I can easily 3D-print more mini-lathe gears.??

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

Did some searching and found this:?

Not sure how it helps yet but too cheap to not grab one.

Neil
-----


On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 7:29 PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:
Looks like a good possibility to me. I'm in the process of trading off my Mini-Lathe, but I can easily 3D-print more mini-lathe gears.??

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

Looks like a good possibility to me. I'm in the process of trading off my Mini-Lathe, but I can easily 3D-print more mini-lathe gears.??

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Sunday, November 21, 2021, 09:05:31 PM CST, Neil Morrison <neilsmorr@...> wrote:



On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 6:42 PM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote:
Bill,
I have an idea I have been noodling in the back of my mind for some time.
I want to design a small, compact worm drive dividing head especially for the Unimat SL. I built one for my minilathe and it has a large range of division using a 45 tooth worm. It satisfies all my needs. With it I was able to engrave 360 divisions around a degree scale.This might be a great little project.
Dick


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 


On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 6:42 PM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote:
Bill,
I have an idea I have been noodling in the back of my mind for some time.
I want to design a small, compact worm drive dividing head especially for the Unimat SL. I built one for my minilathe and it has a large range of division using a 45 tooth worm. It satisfies all my needs. With it I was able to engrave 360 divisions around a degree scale.This might be a great little project.
Dick


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

Bill,
I have an idea I have been noodling in the back of my mind for some time.
I want to design a small, compact worm drive dividing head especially for the Unimat SL. I built one for my minilathe and it has a large range of division using a 45 tooth worm. It satisfies all my needs. With it I was able to engrave 360 divisions around a degree scale.This might be a great little project.
Dick


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

Some folks want more power even when it's not necessarily a good idea. I've been hanging out with the 7x mini-lathe folks for more than a decade now, and some of those folks have put 2 & 3 HP motors on a 7x10 mini-lathe. I've not had a lot of trouble or issues with the 350 watt or nearly 1/2 HP motor that came on it, myself. And I have a 10x36 South Bend Heavy 10L that shipped from the factory with a 3/4HP motor. Yes, you can probably drive carbide tooling with a heavier motor, if the frame of the lathe will support that. Just don't crash the lathe! ;)

There are other reasons besides more power, of course. Reliability, availability, and readily available spare parts, for a few examples. It can be hard and expensive to find parts for a Unimat these days. I've got a couple of deal working to get a Unimat SL for myself, after wanting one for nearly 50 years. If I can make it happen, I will get both. One seems to be working, but is pretty bare, and the other is not working, and needs a bit of TLC. I figure IF I work it right, I can have a lathe and mill both set up at one time, and not take up nearly the space my 7x10 takes. I'll be giving up the 7x10 to get the one that's not working and maybe some cash.

I've priced a few of the accessories that I'd like to have for then, and I'm thinking I may just make what I need. For some other projects I have sitting on the back burner, I need a dividing head. I can get the Unimat dividing head for $139, and three of the dividing plates needed to use it for an additional $189. I can get a copy of the Brown & Sharpe #0 dividing head with plates and tailstock, for less than that. It's a little big for the milling machines I already own, and the Unimat is a little small, so I may try something else. Patience is a virtue I have a bit of trouble exhibiting, but we will see what happens...

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)




On Sunday, November 21, 2021, 11:14:38 AM CST, John Hutnick <johnhutnick@...> wrote:


I also took apart one of these motors and had a similar diifficulty.? I ended up solving it with a good quality large phillips screwdriver.? I found that if I simply pushed very hard on the screw, I could defeat the magnet enough to catch a thread.? Did anyone suggest shrink tubing on the screws?? For the end mounting, I marked the spot for the second screw using a couple Uni motor mounts as a guide.? I drilled the end one drill size smaller than recommended for the tap and threaded the hole.? The motor did not fall off so far.? If it does, then a bushing.
Regarding the motor topic, why all the interest in RC and spindle motors?? We have here with 150W 24V scooter motors what seems like an available, inexpensive choice that works.


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

I also took apart one of these motors and had a similar diifficulty.? I ended up solving it with a good quality large phillips screwdriver.? I found that if I simply pushed very hard on the screw, I could defeat the magnet enough to catch a thread.? Did anyone suggest shrink tubing on the screws?? For the end mounting, I marked the spot for the second screw using a couple Uni motor mounts as a guide.? I drilled the end one drill size smaller than recommended for the tap and threaded the hole.? The motor did not fall off so far.? If it does, then a bushing.
Regarding the motor topic, why all the interest in RC and spindle motors?? We have here with 150W 24V scooter motors what seems like an available, inexpensive choice that works.


Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

 

On my MF70 Proxxon mini-mill I have adapted an RC brushless motor, :

Specs:
Model:?PROPDRIVE v2 3536 910KV
KV:?910 KV
Max current:?38A
ESC:?40~60A
Cell count:?3s~4s Lipoly
Pole Count:?14
Bolt holes:?25mm
Bolt thread:?M3
Shaft:?5mm
Connectors:?3.5mm Bullet
Weight:?88g
It needs a brushless driver and controller,(ESC) - RC also, so it is a bit more expensive option. It works with 12V power source (You will need a 40A one to be safe), 910KV means you can find the speed at any voltage by multiplying that value with voltage. At 6V you should have? 5460 rpm? and 228W (at 38A), 12V will? double theoretical power and speed.
It is very compact but should need some shielding against swarf? dust, touch...,?
One tutorial for a Sieg lathe is?
But you can find lots on the net.
RC Drone motors tend to be open construction for cooling purposes and RC cars motors are closed construction for protection.
NapierDeltic


Re: Moderation

 

Thanks for your efforts, everyone - much appreciated.

Dave W.


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

I can think of a couple of solutions.
1) If you've got a little extra clearance in the holes find a brass tube that will slip over the screws and use it a sleeve to guide the screws past the magnets.
2) If you don't have the extra room, super glue a plastic rod to the end of the screw and use the plastic rod to pull hte screw past the magnet.? You are not trying for a permanent attachment, so don't get carried away with the glue.? Then use super glue remover to remove the plastic rod from the screw, or just snap it off.
3) Use a brass rod to snake a small fishing line through the motor, use the smallest line you can get.? Tie the fishing line to the screw near the end, and use the fishing line to pull the screw past the magnet.?

This is just like electricians pulling wires through conduit.

Don


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

I can only think of using strips of wood to keep the bolts away from the magnets.

Neil
-----


On Fri, Nov 19, 2021 at 6:16 AM Mehmood via <mehmood.naqshbandi=[email protected]> wrote:
Use brass bolts?? Replace one or both, maybe get one in tightish, get the second one in using the old steel bolt.? Maybe then replace the brass one with the other original steel one.

Meanwhile I could really do with a brass magnet, any suggestions?


Does anyone know a good trick to get past the magnets so I can screw the motor housing back together?



Re: Moderation

 

Hi All

Thanks to Bill for standing as a Moderator for the Group, now he is up and running I am changing my email settings back to special notices only so will
have limited viewing of the Group pages but will continue to look in once in a while.
I will continue to receive emails sent to Group Owners via the Homepage.

Marcus


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Use brass bolts? ?Replace one or both, maybe get one in tightish, get the second one in using the old steel bolt. ?Maybe then replace the brass one with the other original steel one.

Meanwhile I could really do with a brass magnet, any suggestions?


Does anyone know a good trick to get past the magnets so I can screw the motor housing back together?


On 19 Nov 2021, at 08:52, Clive via groups.io <cliveadams23@...> wrote:

Does anyone know a good trick to get past the magnets so I can screw the motor housing back together?


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

Les,
Thank you for the pictures! Your solution looks very sound.
Dick


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

I drilled a hole in the casing and glued threaded boss in position.


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

I think I will epoxy an appropriately sized aluminum piece into the area that I need to ?drill and tap M5. Then turn my attention to getting the long screws lined up and tightened. At least I don¡¯t feel alone as many of you have faced the same issue.
Thank you to all who have responded.
Dick


Re: 150 watt 24 volt Scooter Motor Disassembly Problem

 

Correction: ...easier to line up.