Re: Projects Built on the Unimat?
Paul,
When you turn model railway wheel do you use a profile form cutter? If so, do you grind your own lathe tools?
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
Re: History of Unimat in Model Railroader Magazine document uploaded
Well done! I enjoyed the trip.
Pete M
On 2023-05-05 12:35 a.m., Charles
Kinzer wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello:
?
Recently there was the ¡°Old Advert¡± post
with a Unimat ad from the UK that was ¡°9 machines in 1¡±.? I
was aware of ads for 8 in 1, 10 in 1, 6 in 1, and 5 in 1 in
Model Railroader magazine ads, and tried to find a ¡°9 in 1¡±
there and couldn¡¯t.
?
But in the process, thought a document
showing the history of Unimat advertising in that magazine
might be entertaining to some.
?
It grew a bit as I added what the
competition had to offer, other references to the Unimat
besides the ads, and even a Mechanix Illustrated article
referenced in some of their ads.
?
It is here:
?
/g/Unimat/files/History of
Unmat in Model Railroader Magazine.pdf
?
If you happen to be a model railroader, and
especially if ¡°long in the tooth¡±, it is also quite the trip
down memory lane.
?
Charles E. ¡°Chuck¡± Kinzer
?
Sent from for Windows
?
|
Re: History of Unimat in Model Railroader Magazine document uploaded
Frantastic! Thanks for your research.
|
Re: Quick Change Tool Post and Buddy Bar
Just got a note from Harry - the tool post kits are back in stock and on Ebay. I just ordered one.?
Ebay item #285269003226
|
Thank you, being new here I didn't realize there was so much info in there
|
Look in files. Drawings are there for the factory t-slotted table & a table with drilled and tapped holes on a grid.?
https://mail.yahoo.com/m/36/edit/3621468074
I made one of each.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, May 4, 2023 at 09:49:20 PM CDT, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:
I am trying to make a milling table for my unimat from a piece of cast iron. The dimensions I get off photos on Ebay just don't look correct. Does anyone possibly have the dimensions of the table?, especially the distance between the T-slots and of the hole distances.
I have the table as 3?" x 4? x ?"
Much appreciated.
Dave
|
History of Unimat in Model Railroader Magazine document uploaded
Hello: ? Recently there was the ¡°Old Advert¡± post with a Unimat ad from the UK that was ¡°9 machines in 1¡±.? I was aware of ads for 8 in 1, 10 in 1, 6 in 1, and 5 in 1 in Model Railroader magazine ads, and tried to find a ¡°9 in 1¡± there and couldn¡¯t. ? But in the process, thought a document showing the history of Unimat advertising in that magazine might be entertaining to some. ? It grew a bit as I added what the competition had to offer, other references to the Unimat besides the ads, and even a Mechanix Illustrated article referenced in some of their ads. ? It is here: ? /g/Unimat/files/History of Unmat in Model Railroader Magazine.pdf ? If you happen to be a model railroader, and especially if ¡°long in the tooth¡±, it is also quite the trip down memory lane. ? Charles E. ¡°Chuck¡± Kinzer ? Sent from for Windows ?
|
File /History of Unmat in Model Railroader Magazine.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...>
Description:
Show many of the Unimat advertisements and also other brands and other references.
|
I am trying to make a milling table for my unimat from a piece of cast iron. The dimensions I get off photos on Ebay just don't look correct. Does anyone possibly have the dimensions of the table?, especially the distance between the T-slots and of the hole distances.
I have the table as 3?" x 4? x ?"
Much appreciated.
Dave
|
I had the same issue with the toothed pulley - I used a torch to loosen it up. I was able to find a pulley with 8mm ID.?
I guess I'll find out how well the PS/controller that I bought works out - and if there are shortcomings, upgrading the PS and/or controller shouldn't be much of a problem.
I'll post some pics when mines is up and running.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, May 4, 2023 at 05:02 AM, Steve Johnson wrote:
I'm guessing you've seen this link - it's what I'm using for a reference for my conversion.
That's roughly what I did, but differences were: I used a linear power supply - a big transformer, chunky rectifier and a big capacitor. I used a pavement vehicle speed controller - bags of power I had the motor with the toothed belt pulley. It took a lot of force to get it off, but I suspect heating it would have released it. The motor shaft was a bit too short so I made an extension. That also gave me a 6 mm shaft instead of the 8 mm on the motor, so the pulley fitted straight on, with a screw to hold it just like the origonal. That pushed the motor back from the bracket so I made an adaptor plate, from the two hole to three hole fixing (all M5 and all on the same 42 mm circle) I didn't modify the end of the motor as the brushes were at the shaft end. If they had been at the other end (good for a few reasons, like avoiding the able touching the belts and pulleys) I would have happily modified it. The solutions to the annoying snags finally fitted together to make a sensible arrangement. Photos and drawings in my Photo album: Keith's DB_SL
|
On Thu, May 4, 2023 at 05:02 AM, Steve Johnson wrote:
I'm guessing you've seen this link - it's what I'm using for a reference for my conversion.
That's roughly what I did, but differences were: I used a linear power supply - a big transformer, chunky rectifier and a big capacitor. I used a pavement vehicle speed controller - bags of power I had the motor with the toothed belt pulley. It took a lot of force to get it off, but I suspect heating it would have released it. The motor shaft was a bit too short so I made an extension. That also gave me a 6 mm shaft instead of the 8 mm on the motor, so the pulley fitted straight on, with a screw to hold it just like the origonal. That pushed the motor back from the bracket so I made an adaptor plate, from the two hole to three hole fixing (all M5 and all on the same 42 mm circle) I didn't modify the end of the motor as the brushes were at the shaft end. If they had been at the other end (good for a few reasons, like avoiding the able touching the belts and pulleys) I would have happily modified it. The solutions to the annoying snags finally fitted together to make a sensible arrangement. Photos and drawings in my Photo album: Keith's DB_SL
|
Re: Projects Built on the Unimat?
Very nice work, Mike
Thank you for the information!
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
I'm guessing you've seen this link - it's what I'm using for a reference for my conversion. Only difference is that instead of drilling new holes in the motor to fit the original motor mount, I'm casting a new mount specifically for the 24v motor.
|
Mine worked very well with the widely used 24 V DC motor. I used 130 W, and it was fine. I would stay in the range 100 - 150 W whilst remembering that the lower power DC motors go a bit faster than the higher powers. I'll be interested to see more about this when you get it running, in particular which motor you choose.
|
Looking forward to seeing that Neil.
Jeff
|
I've just done my SL up with a 24v 150W motor and PWM speed control. It's AMAZING! I'm going to document it all once I've sorted out my drive pulley.
Hi Folks.
think I¡¯m gonna repower my DB200 with a new motor
thinking brushless, dc, 12-24V pondering wattage. 150w sounds good.?
two much power creates problems as does too little.
was also thinking of keying the spindle to the pulley for more positive drive.
thoughts people??
?
|
I doubt you NEED to key them together, but I don't see how it can hurt anything. Might make things better in the long run if you might ever decide to CNC the lathe, including the spindle...
OTH, having a little bit of potential slippage in the system can be good if you crash the carriage into the spindle or something like that. Some lathes have a clutch in the drive system, some use a fusible link of some sort, like a soft pin that will shear if over-driven. There are electric brakes, as well. Do a bit of reading, and you can figure out what you want for what you are trying to do.?
I'm also working on doing motor conversions, and my plan is to duplicate the pulleys used on the original motor but modified to use an Allen set screw, and see how well that works. If I find out it's not as good as I'd hoped, I can always modify it later. I'll have PWM speed control of the motor, and the speed ranges the pulleys allow, and we'll see how well that works, as well!?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Wednesday, May 3, 2023 at 03:10:14 PM CDT, rcjge <jgpedwards@...> wrote:
Hi Folks.
think I¡¯m gonna repower my DB200 with a new motor
thinking brushless, dc, 12-24V pondering wattage. 150w sounds good.?
two much power creates problems as does too little.
was also thinking of keying the spindle to the pulley for more positive drive.
thoughts people??
?
|
Re: Projects Built on the Unimat?
Dick the plans are by Peter Ashby and they are in the files of this group called something like "Unimat4 Threading attachment .pdf"
|
Re: Projects Built on the Unimat?
Hi Dick those gears are of a homemade version of the Unimat 3/4? threading set part number 150200. I 3D printed the gears and machined the other parts. Here is the parts nearly finished laid on plan.  
|
The dc motors I have used for my unimats usually came with a flat on their shaft. I just drilled and tapped through the pulley for a small set screw ( like 4-40). ?The set screw bears on the flat.
One that had a shaft with no flat or key I covered the motor and bearing with masking and ground a flat on the shaft with a dremel stone. The stones or ?reinforced cutoff wheels can carefully be used to grind a small flat on a shaft. Shafts on the dc motors I have are soft. Like 12L14.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 3, 2023, at 5:15 PM, Elliot Nesterman <elliot@...> wrote:
?Cutting a key slot into the Unimat's relatively thin spindle wall strikes me as a bad idea. Besides, with round belts the belt will slip in the pulley before the pulley slips on the spindle. My 2?, Elliot On 5/3/23 4:10 PM, rcjge wrote: Hi Folks.
think I¡¯m gonna repower my DB200 with a new motor
thinking brushless, dc, 12-24V pondering wattage. 150w sounds good.
two much power creates problems as does too little.
was also thinking of keying the spindle to the pulley for more positive
drive.
thoughts people?
-- Elliot Nesterman elliot@... www.ajoure.net "The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."
|
OldToolmaker
Steve Johnson
David James
Bill in OKC too
rcjge
Tool247