¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io

514 AC Socket


 

Does anyone know of a source for the cable-end receptacle that mates with the plug shown in this photo


The inside is metal, and I wonder if the original line cord had a metal ground ring that mated with it, like some of the larger twist-lock connectors do.

In lieu of finding the receptacle, I thought I'd replace it with the early hubbell 'midget' (pre NEMA) twist-lock connectors, but even those are too large for this hole, and I'd love not have to modify the chassis. The screw spacing is 1 1/2", and the chassis opening is 1 1/8"

thanks,
Paul


 

Here in the UK (where NEMA connectors of any type aren't really used at all) I've seen Tek scopes that have been retroftted with EP4 power inlets. Coming from a broadcasting background I have plenty of these around though they are still available new, albeit specified for loudspeaker connection, not mains.


Nice, solid, rugged connectors. They look good too, especially the older types. It doesn't help that there are 2 different wiring conventions which has caused endless grief to many broadcasting engineers. In the USA, I don't know if they are found at all. Vintage Marconi broadcast studio kit may well have used them, even in the USA.

Another approach is less good looking but inexpensive and effective. The very common IEC C13/C14 mains inlets can be fitted by using an adaptor plate. I don't think any drilling of the original would be needed though would need to check exact dimensions.


 

The cable female connector was made by several manufacturers, most I have seen were General Electric. I have never seen one with a grounding contact. You can also search for an older extension cord that has two outlets on the sides of and one on the end of the head. Find the ones molded of soft plastic rather than bakelite, and carefully carve or grind off the edges to allow it to go into the connector on the scope. Those with outlet slots on the sides of the head can not be used. Many older General Electric extension cords will plug into the connector without any alterations. Many older 3 wire ground adapters from appliances and power tools will fit into the connector on the scope and then allow you to use almost any extension cord.

Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY

On 1/1/21 12:09, Paul wrote:
Does anyone know of a source for the cable-end receptacle that mates with the plug shown in this photo


The inside is metal, and I wonder if the original line cord had a metal ground ring that mated with it, like some of the larger twist-lock connectors do.

In lieu of finding the receptacle, I thought I'd replace it with the early hubbell 'midget' (pre NEMA) twist-lock connectors, but even those are too large for this hole, and I'd love not have to modify the chassis. The screw spacing is 1 1/2", and the chassis opening is 1 1/8"

thanks,
Paul





 

Thanks!
An IEC socket /almost/ fits, but would require a little bit of filing, and maybe a plate to fill in the remaining gaps.
I'll take a look at the EP - I think I remember seeing them on consoles before. A similar approach I was considering was Neutrik's powercon, which would probably require about as much filing / drilling / bodging as either the EP or IEC cables.

The closest fit is the 2 pin hubbell midget, but that's non-grounded.


cheers,
Paul


 

no ground on the ones I serviced, I changed all to 3 pin IEC ( they are/were on other non TEK equipment) as it was required for safety...IMO was not needed but ya do as ordered. above my pay grade.
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð

On 1/1/21 9:09 AM, Paul wrote:
Does anyone know of a source for the cable-end receptacle that mates with the plug shown in this photo


The inside is metal, and I wonder if the original line cord had a metal ground ring that mated with it, like some of the larger twist-lock connectors do.

In lieu of finding the receptacle, I thought I'd replace it with the early hubbell 'midget' (pre NEMA) twist-lock connectors, but even those are too large for this hole, and I'd love not have to modify the chassis. The screw spacing is 1 1/2", and the chassis opening is 1 1/8"

thanks,
Paul




.


 

Thanks Bruce - 'General Electric' extension cords is giving some good hits. I guess these weren't grounded via their AC socket?


 

An IEC would definitely need an adaptor plate. The less common type with mounting holes above and below rather than out to the sides might be a better fit.

The other type I've used (again this betrays my background in broadcast kit) is XLR-LNE. I think this type was only used in the UK, by the BBC and ITV companies. They are no longer made and go for too much money secondhand. Inevtiably I have a stock of them:)


 

When I came across this problem (and after an unsuccessful search for my genuine ancient line cord), I took one of those rubbery 3-prong-to-2 prong adapters and, with a sharp knife, cut off the female grounding socket (along with enough of the surrounding rubber to allow insertion into the instrument. This allowed me to attach a normal 3-wire cord.


 

I think the best compromise might be the 3 pole midget twistlock from Hubbell, as it will give me a grounded connection, and the modification will be the lest conspicuous: slightly enlarging round holes with a step-bit, no adapter plates, and no collisions with the outer steel shell.

Thanks y'all!


Chuck Harris
 

I have the original power cord for my 513D, and it is a
2 pin round bodied "extension" cord, of a type that was
popular in the late 1940's.

The instruction manual clearly indicated that you must ground
your scope using the metal ground banana/binding post terminal
on the front panel.

-Chuck Harris

Paul wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for the cable-end receptacle that mates with the plug shown in this photo


The inside is metal, and I wonder if the original line cord had a metal ground ring that mated with it, like some of the larger twist-lock connectors do.

In lieu of finding the receptacle, I thought I'd replace it with the early hubbell 'midget' (pre NEMA) twist-lock connectors, but even those are too large for this hole, and I'd love not have to modify the chassis. The screw spacing is 1 1/2", and the chassis opening is 1 1/8"

thanks,
Paul