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I am trying to narrow down my choice of a signal generator for my shack. I would be glad to have your opinion on which Sig Gen to buy I need something that covers from 0.01 MHz to 1000 MHz or

Using another scope and a DMM, refer to the repair manual and verify whether all power supply voltages and ripple are within spec. Note any voltages/ripple which are out of spec. Assuming one or more

----------------- Here's the Data Sheet and wire specs. http://www.hakanh.com/temp/067-0645-02.pdf /H?kan

Hi Dave, See all messages on this Post: Tek TM flex extender wire gauge Dan has made this list in the past. This will save me a moment (or two). Accidentally he mentioned 14AWG instead of 20AWG.

Hi to you, The discussion about the wiring gauges is getting out of control. It is 17 times 20AWG not 14AWG. We are not in the welding business. And 34 times 28AWG for the Signal Lines. Greetings,

Thanks for the heads up. I never overtighten but your caution will be observed when I do this work. Thanks, Mac

I remember reading somewhere on this list that over tightening the nut that holds U800 to the PCB can possibly cause the chip to fail. Seems it applies stress to the die and bond wires. I don't

Cslim, Great suggestions. I think I will combine a version of 1 and 3. I will buy steel "mending plates", the kind that look like door hinges but are really just steel plates with holes. Drill new

Patrick, Duhhh. Sometimes Im not too smart. I was using only the 1 Meg input on the scope. I did not test the 50 Ohm input. Mostly because I do not have a good 50 Ohm signal generator. Thank you for

Patrick, Thank you for your question. I was using a cheap P6101 probe and tried it both at 1:1 and 1:10. I believe the the probe is 1 Meg at the 1:10 setting. I wasnt careful about measurement at the

I do it three quick and dirty ways: 1. Buy suitable door hinges. The two screw holes are offset nicely. Get the right ones, add heat sink and screw into the stud(s) to seat them flat on top of u800.

No that is 34 wires of 28 ga Regards, David Partridge

Thanks, and all around a good bit of advice! Fortunately I'm actually a returning adult student (non-traditional as they say) so I'm going part time and this is my only class. In my years since high

Hi Steve, Here is one possible solution: <http://qservice.tv/vpasp/shopexd.asp?id=1807&bc=no> Basically a low-profile heat sink is needed that will not contact the cabinet bottom. Patrick Wong AK6C

I've seen reference to additional cooling for U800 in several postings. Is there somewhere on the internet that suggests how to go about doing that? Thanks. Steve

Regarding the 40% CH1 and CH2 error, are you using the 50 ohm input or the 1M ohm input? If the former, are you accounting for the voltage drop associated with the low impedance input? I agree that a

I agree with David. Change all the power supply caps. See the condoraudio site. Some capacitors are not doing its job. Power is needed to deflect the beam away from the centre of the screen. As you

Don't mind me butting in, Chris. I would strongly suggest that you finish all your exams first and then come back to spend time on the scope. The scope can wait. To relax your tired mind after

Dave, The pins for custom signal connections could be ignored in an extender cable. Those pins are to allow the user to interconnect the rear in/outs between plugins. For ex, you could take the rear

Gala is correct about WD40 residue. I should have mentioned that I rinse it thoroughly with alcohol in a small rubber syringe or eyedropper to get the oil residue off. HankC