If going to scrap then perhaps a volunteer army in the greater MD area descends on
Chuck's place this spring and removes for posterity the bits of unobotanium, i.e
Knobs, Custom Hybrids, HV transformers and HV Multipliers, and tunnel diodes ?
Microplate CRT's etc.?

Dave
ArtekManuals

where are you located,
i'm in Silverton, oregon
jim


On Feb 17, 2013, at 11:22 AM, Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

Ah yes, there is that: If I fire up the forklift,
and take these scopes down from the pallet racks,
unwrap their protective shrink wrap from the pallet,
stand them up individually, and shoot pictures, and
then re stack them and re wrap them with shrink wrap,
start up the forklift, and put them back up on the
pallet racks, I will have spent about 4 hours more
and made my back sore, all on the promise that one
or two of these scopes will receive more than a
scrap value offer.

?

There you go Chuck ..You could be the "seed" for the Tektronix wing at the Smithsonian...it is just down the road ?? :-)

Dave

On 2/17/2013 5:12 PM, Alex wrote:

?

Is there a science museum in your area? Donate the best one and I'm sure that's a tax credit.

-- 
Dave Henderson
Manuals@...

PO Box 175
Welch,MN 55089
651-269-4265

Is there a science museum in your area? Donate the best one and I'm sure that's a tax credit.

--- In TekScopes@..., Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

David DiGiacomo wrote:

Well, it seems like you had made up your mind before you posted in the
first place.

But really, what you should do is a make a list, and post it here at
say 25% over the scrap value. Then you won't have to pay any eBay
fees or take the trouble to disassemble things.

If you can't do that much, I don't know why you're a list member.

No, actually I hadn't made up my mind... If I had, I would have
scrapped them and said nothing. That truly would be the easiest,
quickest, and most profitable thing for me to do. Stefan is
completely correct in his assessment.

I'm hoping that someone will be incensed enough at the idea
of these scopes being scrapped that they will make me a real
offer for the scopes, and haul them away.

If you all want a photo of them as they sit on the rack, I'll
get you one right away. I can even lift them out of the rack
and shoot a forklift photo from all sides if that will help
save them from the scrappers...

As to your scolding me for not doing enough... Talk is cheap.
Make an offer and bring a truck.

-Chuck Harris

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

David DiGiacomo wrote:

Well, it seems like you had made up your mind before you posted in the
first place.

But really, what you should do is a make a list, and post it here at
say 25% over the scrap value. Then you won't have to pay any eBay
fees or take the trouble to disassemble things.

If you can't do that much, I don't know why you're a list member.

No, actually I hadn't made up my mind... If I had, I would have
scrapped them and said nothing. That truly would be the easiest,
quickest, and most profitable thing for me to do. Stefan is
completely correct in his assessment.

I'm hoping that someone will be incensed enough at the idea
of these scopes being scrapped that they will make me a real
offer for the scopes, and haul them away.

If you all want a photo of them as they sit on the rack, I'll
get you one right away. I can even lift them out of the rack
and shoot a forklift photo from all sides if that will help
save them from the scrappers...

As to your scolding me for not doing enough... Talk is cheap.
Make an offer and bring a truck.

-Chuck Harris

?

Hello--

Dunno whether it's applicable to a 22xx series oscilloscope's
knobs, but I've used the following to remove stubbornly-stuck
knobs without damage.

Attempting to pry off a stuck knob using a screwdriver often
damages the knob or the front panel. Instead, locate a scrap
length of multiconductor ribbon cable (commonly used as
disk-drive cables in PCs).

Using a hobby knife, cut a small slit in the middle of the
cable. Make the slit just wide enough to fit over the knob.

Arrange the ribbon cable such that the conductors contact
each side of the knob's underside. Grasp the ends of the
ribbon cable and pull gently.

The ribbon cable distributes the pulling force more or less
evenly to the knob, minimizing the stresses that would
be applied by prying with a screwdriver.

Hope this helps, and 73--

Brad AA1IP

Chris -

I have a spreadsheet with parts for refreshing the 2465a LVPS along with Mouser part numbers. This has worked well for my scope. After reading the Condoraudio piece and looking at this list you can decide what you want to do. You can grab the spreadsheet 2465LVPS_ReCap.xls from
or I can email it directly to you if you can get your email address to me.

Chip


--- In TekScopes@..., "Chris" wrote:

Hello all,
I'll try and keep this short. When it comes to electronics I'm somewhat a newb, but not entirely. I've always been interested in it, and I've recently purchased a scope - the tek 2465 300Mhz unit. Spent some time getting familiar with it, playing around in XY mode, and then used it for some diagnostics with some inductive sensors I was having an issue with. Just when I was getting ready to pack it up from verifying the sensors the scope went a bit goofy. The display at the bottom appeared to be "compressed" to a a central blur (I could change it's intensity with the readout intensity) and my traces were a short line near the center of the screen. I powered the scope off, waited a few seconds and then powered it back on, and it now powers on, lights up all the LED's, and I get a super bright --- display at the center of the screen (unaffected by intensity adjustments etc).

So, as typical I pulled the cover and did an initial once-over. I found that on the main power supply board by the mains that 2 of the capacitors look rough (one with the outer shell opened up). If you reference this pdf regarding a 2465B, the 2nd image of the A2 PCB has the very capacitors circles in red. The lower most one in the image is the one that looks like it may have blown. I haven't pulled the board out of the scope to get a better view of it yet. The rest of the capacitors on the board are the green and brown mix as the image in the PDF shows, which leads me to believe they're still the original capacitors in the unit.

Now in researching and reading about these scopes before I purchased one, I had read that the capacitors were a common issue in them. I have no worries about un-soldering components and soldering new ones in as I've done it numerous times to revive other old equipment. (And I've read about the need to cool these scopes with a fan if you operate them with the cover off)

So sorry to drag this out, so I'll try to make this quick. For those in the know about these scopes, is there a listing/BOM for what capacitors should be purchased and replaced?

Does the 2465B use the same values/locations on their boards that I can just follow the PDF I linked?

Does my issue sound like something that the capacitors could be causing? Or is it likely more involved?

I'd be happy to provide images or video as requested if it will help.

A huge thank you for taking the time to read and/or respond!
Chris

???

Hi chuck,???

I love the 475, 475a, 485 and the 24xx series. The 7000 would be great but too heavy to ship to Singapore.???

If you could put up a list, and some pictures, we will help to consume them over time.???

I disagree that you scrapped those scopes. That is depriving future generations from the benefits of???

Using those scopes, especially when someone said you do not need the money.???

Gold price is ever rising; future prices may still be higher.???

Scrapping is final; the scopes are gone for ever.???

Cslim

On Monday, February 18, 2013, Patrick Wong wrote:

???

Hi Chuck,

The answer is obvious if your decision is driven by economics: scrap.

Not too many people feel the need to spend a three-digit amount or more, on an obsolete analog scope.

I've listed a fully-operational and calibrated 2467 on eBay for $499 and have not seen any interest. That's the lowest price listed for a working unit of that model - others are trying to get close to $1K or more.

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@..., Chuck Harris wrote:
>
> ...What's it to be? Do I fix them, or Do I scrap them?
>
> What shall I do with these scopes?

?

It's been off the bay for quite a while. I think it
was listed for about $150. There is an off the top of
the stack 434 on the bay that looks like it is going to
sell for $70 right now.

Have you looked at 7000's recently?

I haven't seen a 7704 frame sell for any price lately. The
majority of the value in a 7704 is in that 5 lb hunk of
motherboard, and the couple of pounds of horizontal, vertical
and display boards. Gold plated scrap circuit boards are
selling for $17 per pound right now. The motherboard is worth
$85 in gold scrap all by itself. Granted, disassembling to a
level where you can get those prices takes time, but so does
setting up an auction on ebay... and the cost of listing and
paying your paypal premium is not trivial.

If a 7XX4 frame isn't selling over $100, the seller is giving
away value.

-Chuck Harris

David DiGiacomo wrote:
>> To give you an example. I found a DOA 434 in my stash, and
>> because it was so cute, I cleaned it up, fixed a power supply
>> problem that stumped the original owner, replaced a tantalum
>> on one of the boards, fixed a really nasty trigger problem,
>> that was caused by the power supply problem, lubed all of the
>> pots, cleaned and lubed the panel switches, and fan, cleaned
>> the attenuator contacts, and did a complete calibration. It
>> took me a week of evenings to do the work. When it was put on
>> ebay, as cleaned, calibrated, and guaranteed, it got a couple
>> of $15 offers, and it remains unsold... as does its twin that
>> I did in hopes of a better result...
>
> How much did you list it for? The cheapest current listing I see is
> for $225. That's just not a good way to sell a 434.
>
>> What's the answer?
>
> I think the answer is to take them off the top of the pile and offer
> them for sale at something above the scrap value. Don't refurbish
> them since that doesn't pay off.