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The bigger deal is the doubled current draw. I reckon it -highly- unlikely that a 300mA draw might kill a secondary but I'd be checking things to be sure. Bill @ PEARL, Inc.

Bill, Anita said someone had put in a power resistor to compensate for the reduction of the number 12V heaters. Voltage checks are/have will/been done to confirm the correct heater voltage across the

I'm away from home on a laptop and couldn't look at the schematic first (I have a cherry 575 BTW) but even so there must be some brainiac kludge to circumvent the problem, it's simply not that

Bill, The heaters of the (8) 12AU6s are in series to the 100V supply. A 6V type will not work in this case. Mark

A 6AU6 is identical to a 12AU6 so why not sub in the 6 volt version and drop 6v across a zener or a resistor. It being a constant current load, either will work.

Shipping looks like it'll be about 1000yen, but customs is another matter..... I could pack it neatly and label it as 'New Stock' but that might not help depending on how ornery customs is...

Hi! Can someone please copy file C:\TekScope\calibration\calSPCConst.dat from DPO7254-DPO7354? And send it to me by email. (And console.txt, diag.txt from C:\TekScope\calibration\ )

Ed Thanks for that info about Fetrons. I had never heard of them, but I went and read up about them. Pretty ingenious solution. Menahem

Thanks Jaret, but I don’t think that will be needed for 2 reasons. 1st shipping form japan to Vietnam (my country) would probably cost more than the 30$ it would cost me to get the USB drive from

I have found that bearings used in remote control cars are often good replacements in fans. Tamiya etc among other remote control brands are worth a look. They are often high quality and can be

If you need a disk drive, I have some spares that wouldn't be expensive to send as a 'small parcel'. I'll be back in Japan just after new year, so I can test a couple and send you a working one for

Thank for the link to the replacement drive. I re test with a bunch of different floppy disks, even a new sealed one. And it definitely seems like the drive is to blame. I’ll order the replacement

I second the faulty floppy drive in the scope few of the scopes I've had on the bench were a bit flakey. I recently converted my TDS784D and TDS794D to use the Gotek floppy adapters which work

Hi Barry, My comment about 2N2219A vs 2N2219 was: - "A" version is in the Tek replacement recommendation - "A" version fT matches to original Tek part - "A" version has higher Vceo of 40V. Plain

Ozan, I see -32.5V across at the output Q7042 was found to be bad when I started several days ago. I did not have one so I used a 2222A temoprarly. I have a couple "2N2219 PBFREE Central

Thanks Siggi That did the trick... works perfectly now. John w.

Top and bottom in brass was about 85usd. (0.1mm, as milled).

Assuming you have tried different discs my first choice would be a bad drive, most likely the one in the scope. If you can do GPIB you can get screenshots that way too. /H?kan

Hey John, Did you try the auto DC balance yet? Disconnect any probes or signals from CH1/CH2, then press the input coupling for CH1 and CH2 up at the same time. Wait and see whether this cleans it

BTW, if that's not a secret, can you tell us how much JLCPCB charged you for your CNC'ed part? Thank you.