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Re: non-gumming oil
Sorry Chuck,
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My only experience with these type of bearings is with ones that were already oiled, sorry about that. One thing I like about this list is the plethora of new information. Steve -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chuck Harris Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 10:39 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] non-gumming oil Hi Stephen, I don't recall saying anything about the original infusion with oil. I generally receive sintered bronze bearings that are bone dry from a distributor, such as MSC. I don't recall ever getting one that was pre-oiled, except perhaps as a bagged replacement part. I am not sure how the manufacturer of the sintered bronze would know what parameters your oil needed to survive your use. Oil is not meant to be added to the shaft/oilite interface, it is intended to be done through oil contact with the outer surface of the oilite The oil then diffuses through capillary action into the sintered bronze, just like a common sponge does when it comes into contact with water. Very few high reliability users of oilite do not provide an oil reservoir... usually in the form of an oil soaked piece of wool felt that is in contact with the oilite. This is what tektronix has in the fan motors for the old vacuum tube scopes. Often, these motors find themselves with their oil holes upside down, so if you find one that way, be kind and restore it to the upright position. Gravity, and all that... Getting the oil out of, and back into the oilite is easy. To remove it, set it on a rag, and bake it to 212F. As soon as the oilite gets hot, the oil will leave due to expansion. And to put it back, soak it in hot oil, then allow the oil to cool. Generally, if the bearing isn't worn out, all that is needed is to remove the gummy oil from the outside of the bearing, and shaft, and put some fresh oil in the wool felt. If you have to keep adding oil to the shaft/oilite interface, to keep the peace, the bearing and shaft are worn out. -Chuck Harris Stephen Hanselman wrote: Chuck, |
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Re: non-gumming oil
The WD stands for Water Displacing, by the way.? 40 is presumably because it was the 40th substance the manufacturer tried.Jim FordSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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-------- Original message --------From: "Greg Muir via Groups.Io" <big_sky_explorer@...> Date: 8/14/19 10:09 AM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] non-gumming oil WD-40Spent a couple of years working in the tropics with extremely high humidity.? I used to protect tools from rusting by wiping them with WD-40 then storing unused tools in plastic bags.? What I found after coming back after several months to use them was that the light hydrocarbons used in the product had evaporated leaving behind a petroleum based product with the consistency of something between 90 weight oil and Cosmoline.From this I learned that it is only good for a very few purposes (aside from the original intent of the product for coating the outsides of missiles to prevent corrosion) is to protect items from rust and corrosion (with some subsequent clean-up effort), a penetrent and, on occasion, a gummed label remover.? When I hear of someone using it to lubricate potentiometers, switches and such, I wince.A footnote: while at the project it was interesting to find that all of the local outlets sold WD-40 in gallon cans, an indication that I was probably not the only one facing rust and corrosion issues.Greg
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Re: non-gumming oil
Chuck Harris
Hi Stephen,
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I don't recall saying anything about the original infusion with oil. I generally receive sintered bronze bearings that are bone dry from a distributor, such as MSC. I don't recall ever getting one that was pre-oiled, except perhaps as a bagged replacement part. I am not sure how the manufacturer of the sintered bronze would know what parameters your oil needed to survive your use. Oil is not meant to be added to the shaft/oilite interface, it is intended to be done through oil contact with the outer surface of the oilite The oil then diffuses through capillary action into the sintered bronze, just like a common sponge does when it comes into contact with water. Very few high reliability users of oilite do not provide an oil reservoir... usually in the form of an oil soaked piece of wool felt that is in contact with the oilite. This is what tektronix has in the fan motors for the old vacuum tube scopes. Often, these motors find themselves with their oil holes upside down, so if you find one that way, be kind and restore it to the upright position. Gravity, and all that... Getting the oil out of, and back into the oilite is easy. To remove it, set it on a rag, and bake it to 212F. As soon as the oilite gets hot, the oil will leave due to expansion. And to put it back, soak it in hot oil, then allow the oil to cool. Generally, if the bearing isn't worn out, all that is needed is to remove the gummy oil from the outside of the bearing, and shaft, and put some fresh oil in the wool felt. If you have to keep adding oil to the shaft/oilite interface, to keep the peace, the bearing and shaft are worn out. -Chuck Harris Stephen Hanselman wrote: Chuck, |
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Re: non-gumming oil
WD-40
Spent a couple of years working in the tropics with extremely high humidity. I used to protect tools from rusting by wiping them with WD-40 then storing unused tools in plastic bags. What I found after coming back after several months to use them was that the light hydrocarbons used in the product had evaporated leaving behind a petroleum based product with the consistency of something between 90 weight oil and Cosmoline. From this I learned that it is only good for a very few purposes (aside from the original intent of the product for coating the outsides of missiles to prevent corrosion) is to protect items from rust and corrosion (with some subsequent clean-up effort), a penetrent and, on occasion, a gummed label remover. When I hear of someone using it to lubricate potentiometers, switches and such, I wince. A footnote: while at the project it was interesting to find that all of the local outlets sold WD-40 in gallon cans, an indication that I was probably not the only one facing rust and corrosion issues. Greg |
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Re: 5xx 'Scopes
I have a 535A that I just finished mostly refurbishing I would part with. It's got all new tubes, almost all the capacitors replaced, one broken resistor replaced in the vertical amp, and calibrated up (mostly) to the "B" plugin inside it. I can attest the frequency and voltage displays are in-line with reality, but may need some geometry true-up and probably wouldn't hurt to adjust the delay line. I would also be willing to include a 1A1 plugin (probably needing at minimum new capacitors and a calibration). I am in the Atlanta area. The downside is that with all the parts I've just put into it, I'll have to have what I have sunk into it for acquisition cost and parts. I will even write off the labor as a labor of love keeping something as cool as an old 5-series running.
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Re: non-gumming oil
Thank you.
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Merchison On 2019-Aug-13 2:42 PM, greenboxmaven via Groups.Io wrote:
It is a good oil, comparable to the original. It will become rancid in time just as the original did, especially if there is moisture. It is also used in hydraulic elevators as the working oil and as general lube by those working in the craft. It is well refined mineral oil with few or no additives, but I think synthetics are far better.?? I had far better luck with synthetic is fan motors in elevators. I worked in the craft for over 30 years. Most oil distributors have it by the pail, one source for smaller quantities is to befriend an elevator or air conditioning technician. Most appliance supply dealers have it in small squeeze bottles for exorbitant prices.?? NEVER call an elevator company, or worst yet, a supervisor.?? Deal direct with a technician, a cup of coffee or a soda will get you all of the oil you are likely to use for some time! |
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Re: non-gumming oil
I don't think Chuck contradicted that point. Dick described it very well. Oilite bushings are sintered, so they are porous - the number I've seen was about 40% free space - then impregnated with oil. The original process involved pulling a vacuum on the bushings while they were soaked in oil, and then sometimes pressurizing them afterward. I haven't the faintest idea if that's still the process today.
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The original Tek bushings could be cleared out by baking at a lower temp so that the oil only evaporates and doesn't burn, then refilling. Pulling a vacuum while in an oil bath would work best but soaking at an elevated temp to thin the oil might be fine. The next question would be whether the bearing surface of the bushing had smeared so that the pores were closed off or not. Probably not I would suspect. This would of course necessitate removal of the bushings. Best bet for most folks would probably be just to add some oil periodically. --Eric On Aug 14, 2019 10:29 AM, Stephen Hanselman <kc4sw.io@...> wrote:
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Re: non-gumming oil
Chuck,
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You¡¯re right on all your points, except the original oiling was when the bearing structure was made and the oil was ¡°infused¡±(??) into the material (oil-lite bearing)where our added oil is applied to the bearing surface-spindle interface. Really it gets down to use what works for you. I¡¯ve also had good luck with WD-40 which isn¡¯t ever a lubricant. Regards, Stephen Hanselman Datagate Systems, LLC 3107 North Deer Run Road #24 Carson City, Nevada, 89701 (775) 882-5117 office (775) 720-6020 mobile s.hanselman@... www.datagatesystems.com a Service Disabled, Veteran Owned Small Business DISCLAIMER: This e-mail and any attachments are intended only for use by the addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or proprietary information. If you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail and any attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify me and permanently delete the original and all copies and printouts of this e-mail and any attachments. On Aug 13, 2019, at 14:22, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@...> wrote: |
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Re: 2465B power supply update
Hi and thanks,
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I don¡¯t need to replace any at present, butTHANK YOU anyway. larry On Aug 14, 2019, at 10:20 AM, Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote: |
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Re: 2465B power supply update
Chuck Harris
Parts numbers change, but the theme remains the same:
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long lived (10K hours), low impedance, 105C, and from United Chemicon, Panasonic, or Nichicon. The only electrolytic that I see leaking on a regular basis is one of the -15V inverter filter caps. The old orange, or clear sleeved caps in the 2465 were awful, and leaked right through their cans under the sleeving. Usually the "B" models capacitors are good, but for an occasional couple... but recapping is a popular theme, so I just replace them all, but with some substitutions: 180uf, 40V, and 250uf, 20V -> 330uf 50V United chemicon 100uf, 25V, -> 100uf, 25 or 35V, Nichicon 10uf, 100v, 10uf, 160V -> 10uf 160V Nichicon 3.3uf, 350V -> 3.3uf, 350V Nichicon 47uf, 25V, 47uf, 35V -> 47uf, 35V Nichicon 4.7uf, 35V -> 4.7uf 35V Nichicon 290uf, 200V (axial) -> 330uf, 200V (radial) 1uf NPE, 35V -> 1uf ceramic, 50V And, don't forget the one or two caps in the HV supply. (if they are bad, EHT ripple gets all over -15V) 100uf, 25V/35V -> 100uf, 35V Nichicon. The only critical caps are those that are inverter filters on the inverter board (180uf, 250uf, 10uf, 3.3uf)... with the 180uf and 250uf being the most critical). The 100uf cap in the HV chassis is critical too, as it keeps the EHT supply from swamping the -15V with noise... If you must replace the mains filters, go to 330uf, 200V, radial leaded from one of the above major brands. Orient the leads so they point towards the center of the board, and use longer, sleeved leads from the PCB edge all the way to the radial leads. A little craft glue to keep them from moving. The large mains filtering caps rarely go bad. If you are blowing fuses, that means something is wrong in the primary side... probably a bridge rectifier. There are no substantial differences in the supplies from the 2465 through the 2465B. The fan is the most significant change, and it is just a plastic bit. I have never had to replace a supply, only simple troubles. -Chuck Harris Jean-Paul wrote: Bonjour, I have acquired a 2465B . SN B062xxx. exc cond but bad power supply, last rev made. |
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Re: 5xx 'Scopes
Chuck Harris
I would have to beg to differ, the 577 has the same
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left/right sockets, left/right lever switch, and as such, comparison capability as the 576. It even uses the same dual transistor plugin adapters. It (with the right option) even has a split screen storage capability. What it doesn't have is any form of on screen readout display of the settings. -Chuck Harris [email protected] wrote: On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 07:59 AM, Mlynch001 wrote:That's exactly the model I would like to find. The 577 is smaller but lacks the ability to do A-B comparison testing. The 576 can do vacuum tubes too, with the right test fixture if I'm not mistaken. |
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Re: 2465B power supply update
Bonjour, I have acquired a 2465B . SN B062xxx. exc cond but bad power supply, last rev made.
Need to recap and replace unreliable rectifiers and power resistors, then debug. Forum has 2011 notes on BOM for PSUs. Since then, perhaps parts numbers/availability/vendors have changed ? Does the last rev PSU differ substantially from the previous for the PSU parts? Anyone have documentation for this rev? Any working PSU for sale? MANY THANKS for your kind assistance! Kind Regards, Jon PAUL Paris |
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Re: 5xx 'Scopes
If you search the archive, Stan had some input years ago.? There is an example on ebay now; I think it's also been there for years (no affiliation, etc):
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TEKTRONIX R-5030 DUAL BEAM OSCILLOSCOPE * | eBay I thought I had found one at a local auction years ago, but I'm sure I would have posted a note to that effect, so maybe not.? BTW, I was once on a quest for the dual beams too, but after the 502, R502A, 551 and 555, I decided I no longer had room... (I got 2 pallets of mostly 7K stuff about the time I found the R502A) -Dave On Tuesday, August 13, 2019, 08:29:52 PM PDT, <[email protected]> wrote:
On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 09:27 PM, Dave Seiter wrote: Not familiar with them. Will have to go read up... Sean |
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Re: non-gumming oil
I was drawing a blank on the name Oilite, thanks.
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On 8/13/2019 2:58 PM, Greg Muir via Groups.Io wrote:
When looking for an answer on an item or problem I usually try to go to the source - the manufacturer. And if I can't find it on the web, I simply call them and talk to an engineer. After all, they usually know best. --
Richard Knoppow dickburk@... WB6KBL |
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Re: 5xx 'Scopes
Re: vacuum tube curve tracer - if you ask Dennis Tillman nicely, you may get a copy of his excellent article on the project he did.? (Which in my case will have to wait until retirement to be constructed).Jim Ford?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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-------- Original message --------From: [email protected] Date: 8/13/19 8:31 PM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 5xx 'Scopes On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 07:59 AM, Mlynch001 wrote:>> One of the best finds of mine was a very nice Type 576 Curve Tracer (at a> great price). The 576 has indeed helped me repair other equipment. More> importantly, it has greatly increased my understanding of all these little> pieces of black plastic with various wires protruding from the sides.> > --> Michael Lynch> Dardanelle, AR>That's exactly the model I would like to find. The 577 is smaller but lacks the ability to do A-B comparison testing. The 576 can do vacuum tubes too, with the right test fixture if I'm not mistaken.Sean
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Re: 5xx 'Scopes
Ooh, mine, too!Jim Ford?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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-------- Original message --------From: [email protected] Date: 8/13/19 8:30 PM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 5xx 'Scopes On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 07:39 AM, Phillip Potter wrote:>> Sean,> There is a place in Las Cruses, NM, called Edgar Digital Electronics... google> it.> > Gotta run,> Phil>That might be worth a trip down. They have a nice looking Fender twin reverb...guitar amplifiers are another weakness of mine. :o)Sean
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Re: 5xx 'Scopes
On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 07:59 AM, Mlynch001 wrote:
That's exactly the model I would like to find. The 577 is smaller but lacks the ability to do A-B comparison testing. The 576 can do vacuum tubes too, with the right test fixture if I'm not mistaken. Sean |
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Re: 5xx 'Scopes
On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 07:39 AM, Phillip Potter wrote:
That might be worth a trip down. They have a nice looking Fender twin reverb...guitar amplifiers are another weakness of mine. :o) Sean |
Jason A.
Jean-Paul
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