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Parts numbers change, but the theme remains the same:
long lived (10K hours), low impedance, 105C, and from
United Chemicon, Panasonic, or Nichicon.

The only electrolytic that I see leaking on a regular
basis is one of the -15V inverter filter caps. The old
orange, or clear sleeved caps in the 2465 were awful, and
leaked right through their cans under the sleeving.

Usually the "B" models capacitors are good, but for an
occasional couple... but recapping is a popular theme, so
I just replace them all, but with some substitutions:

180uf, 40V, and 250uf, 20V -> 330uf 50V United chemicon
100uf, 25V, -> 100uf, 25 or 35V, Nichicon
10uf, 100v, 10uf, 160V -> 10uf 160V Nichicon
3.3uf, 350V -> 3.3uf, 350V Nichicon
47uf, 25V, 47uf, 35V -> 47uf, 35V Nichicon
4.7uf, 35V -> 4.7uf 35V Nichicon
290uf, 200V (axial) -> 330uf, 200V (radial)
1uf NPE, 35V -> 1uf ceramic, 50V

And, don't forget the one or two caps in the HV supply.
(if they are bad, EHT ripple gets all over -15V)

100uf, 25V/35V -> 100uf, 35V Nichicon.

The only critical caps are those that are inverter filters
on the inverter board (180uf, 250uf, 10uf, 3.3uf)... with
the 180uf and 250uf being the most critical). The 100uf
cap in the HV chassis is critical too, as it keeps the EHT
supply from swamping the -15V with noise...

If you must replace the mains filters, go to 330uf, 200V,
radial leaded from one of the above major brands. Orient
the leads so they point towards the center of the board,
and use longer, sleeved leads from the PCB edge all the
way to the radial leads. A little craft glue to keep them
from moving.

The large mains filtering caps rarely go bad. If you are
blowing fuses, that means something is wrong in the primary
side... probably a bridge rectifier.

There are no substantial differences in the supplies
from the 2465 through the 2465B. The fan is the most
significant change, and it is just a plastic bit.

I have never had to replace a supply, only simple troubles.

-Chuck Harris

Jean-Paul wrote: