Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
Cliff,
? It sounds like your trigger point is close to the baseline and triggering on noise.?
?
? Here is a round about way to set the trigger point, assuming that your 5V p-p signal will fill most of the screen:
Set Storage to Normal (Non-Storage)
Set Horiz sweep to "A"
Set Sweep to "Auto" mode
Set Time/Div to "1mS"
Set Trigger Coupling to "DC"
Setup Ch1 to show trace at mid screen with input "Gnd"
Rotate Pos control and watch A Swp Trig'd light flash at the sweep trigger point
Adjust the A Sweep Trigger "Level" control so the trigger point occurs about half way up your waveform
?
Now reset Ch1 to show your signal swinging below and above the mid line
Set Sweep to "Norm Trig"
Walk the Time/Div to longer sweeps so you can observe the leading edge of your signal
You may have to change Trigger Polarity (and readjust the trigger level)?to observe the portion of the signal of interest
Set the Time/Div as required
?
Denis K
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Cliff White To: TekScopes@... Sent: Saturday, March 2, 2013 11:04 AM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
?
I have it set to normal mode, I've tried both AC, DC, and HF reject couplings, and the channel itself is coupled DC. But it still seems to only want to trigger on the little bit of ripple on the wave, and not actually the signal itself.
On 03/02/2013 12:12 AM, David wrote:
You can absolutely trigger on low frequency signals including slow
ramps. Be sure to set TRIG MODE (below the time/div control on the
right side) to NORM instead of AUTO to prevent the sweep from free
running when the triggers occur slower than about 20 Hz.
You may need to use DC input coupling and DC trigger coupling.
On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 22:12:46 -0600, Cliff White
mailto:cn.white@... wrote:
I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a /very/ slow (less
than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to
make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make
it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just
can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?
-Cliff
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Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
I have it set to normal mode, I've
tried both AC, DC, and HF reject couplings, and the channel itself
is coupled DC. But it still seems to only want to trigger on the
little bit of ripple on the wave, and not actually the signal
itself.
On 03/02/2013 12:12 AM, David wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You can absolutely trigger on low frequency signals including slow
ramps. Be sure to set TRIG MODE (below the time/div control on the
right side) to NORM instead of AUTO to prevent the sweep from free
running when the triggers occur slower than about 20 Hz.
You may need to use DC input coupling and DC trigger coupling.
On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 22:12:46 -0600, Cliff White
wrote:
I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a /very/ slow (less
than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to
make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make
it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just
can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?
-Cliff
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
TekScopes-digest@...
TekScopes-fullfeatured@...
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice pulsed line generator??
I would have used different connectors just to prevent getting the output and the charge line mixed up. On Sat, 02 Mar 2013 18:03:07 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas" <iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@...> wrote: Yes David I agree , I just wonder me why BNC was a good choice for output pulse, but not for transmission line extender, since both are on the same power and rise time stress...??? Gabriel.
|
Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice pulsed line generator??
Yes David I agree , I just wonder me why BNC was a good choice for output pulse, but not for transmission line extender, since both are on the same power and rise time stress...??? Gabriel.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@...> wrote: I should have said GR-874 to BNC female adapter. I suspect the adapter will be better than using a questionable Chinese panel BNC.
On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 22:55:06 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas" <iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@...> wrote:
Thanks David, seems this GR connectors will cost more than I paid for the whole generator!!. Gabriel. --- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@> wrote:
I have found Chinese BNC connectors to be dimensionally questionable. So much so that I suspect you would be better off keeping the GR-874 connector and buying one BNC adapter.
I just recent made the jump into GR-874 connectors to support my S-1 and S-2 sampling head habit. Besides being hermaphroditic, I have found them to be very rugged and reliable.
On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 19:45:38 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas" <iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@> wrote:
Well Craig, what you say is exactly what I think about. Once the generator arrive , and measure the natural pulse length, then I will decide add more or not more length inside, or put a bnc instead GR and have the facility to change pulse width as needed. What suggestion to test if Chinese bnc are useable?...you are talk about dielectric losses..or else? I cant imagine that Chinese not maintain the physical dimension to maintain 50 Ohms..but who know?. Mi first notice that GR are "hermaphrodite" ..we can be confident about sex even in connector matter!! [:D]
What would be useful is add a repetition rate knob adj. Thanks Craig, for your valuable input Gabriel. --- In TekScopes@..., "Craig Sawyers" <c.sawyers@> wrote:
Hi Albert..probably I put some meters of RG147 as fixed(solder) internal
line
in order to obtain a 100nS pulse width. What is the secret about this GR connectors ?, I have the temptation to
replace by a BNC, any wrong with this change?. Gabriel. My version of this generator has a fixed solid line coiled up inside. There
is also a front panel SMA to attach more line if needed.
Nothing special about GR connectors. Essential if you have a lot of GR
gear; they were really GR's solution to a 5GHz connector, introduced in
1943. Then later they introduced the GR900 series that went higher in frequency. Both "hermaphrodite" in that there was not a male and female
connector - everything was identical. There were lots of in-house connectors designed - anyone remember the Rhode&Schwarz Dezifix? All superceded by the N-type for this frequency range. But really, a high quality, branded BNC would be fine (all BNC's are not created equal!)
Craig
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
Cliff, Use DC, not AC coupling for the trigger. Single-sweep mode would be good too; just press the button whenever you want to update the trace. HankC, Boston WA1HOS
|
067-0587-01 7k calibration plug-in for sale
Hi,
I have a working calibration fixture that I have modified with a modern RP-SMA output connector for the TRIG OUT. I include a female BNC to to RP-SMA male adapter cable about 9 inches long. Asking $200 plus shipping. Very good condition.
Jerry Massengale
|
Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
Set trigger mode to Normal not Auto.
Dave
________________________________
From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of Cliff White Sent: 02 March 2013 04:13 To: TekScopes@... Subject: [TekScopes] 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a very slow (less than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?
-Cliff
|
Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
You can absolutely trigger on low frequency signals including slow ramps. Be sure to set TRIG MODE (below the time/div control on the right side) to NORM instead of AUTO to prevent the sweep from free running when the triggers occur slower than about 20 Hz. You may need to use DC input coupling and DC trigger coupling. On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 22:12:46 -0600, Cliff White <cn.white@...> wrote: I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a /very/ slow (less than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?
-Cliff
|
Re: 2901 Time Mark Generator Case Fixings
Well glad it worked out. They sure look similar. Wish my method would have worked for you. I don¡¯t/didn¡¯t want to make it sound trivial as it takes some work to get it all aligned right and started. I also did have to hammer a few home once I got them started with my little tool. In addition, I had a hard time with the very first one because I was trying to slide everything together 90deg out of phase. However if you were doing that (and they were more similar) you would have never got them together. Anyway, I am glad you figured it out. ? It appears you and I were the only two daft enough to take those apart. *smile *. Usually there is lots of advice on things like this. I can but assume that other people tape them off and or get the sticker residue off which is something I think I may do in the future. It is a lot of extra work but the sticker goop looks bad. so who knows. ? Anyway, thanks for sharing your solution. Rob
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of poldhu1901@... Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 7:30 PM To: TekScopes@... Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2901 Time Mark Generator Case Fixings? ? Many thanks for your further reply and, yes, what you used are what we call circlip pliers but there's no way the pliers I've got?here?would be strong enough?to use with these fittings. I still don't know if our fittings are identical, they might differ perhaps in just the detail, or whether Tektronix may have used serrated spring washers of varying strengths over the years but there's no taper on the latch plate on these and there's no way the latch plate?would line up with the slot in the pin without compressing the spring washer 116, which is under the countersunk head of the pin 115, and that was my whole problem. It was easy enough to get the various items into position?but?significant pressure was needed simultaneously on the countersunk head of 115 and the latching plate 118 before the plate would even begin to line up with the slot. My eventual solution was to use a pair of wire strippers, the old fashioned sort that have two overlapping sections with V grooves cut into them and at right angles to the main arms,?in this instance a pair intended for fairly heavy duty, with some plastic cup washers, the type used under rack fixings, to protect the?fittings either side of the cover, plus?a couple of plain washers to delay the mangling of the cup washers. This arrangement allowed me to apply pressure both to the countersunk head of 115 and also to the plate 118, due to the V groove which straddled the inner end of 115, in order to compress the cupped spring washer 116. However,?although the spring washer compressed ok to start with there came a point where it seemed to bottom out but with the latching plate and slot still not quite lined up, if I hadn't removed these fittings myself I would have had very serious doubts at this stage as to whether or not they were what was previously fitted! Perseverance and?curses,?plus a?few scraped and bloodstained fingers:-), finally saw each plate in turn sufficiently engaged that it could be driven home with the assistance of a small hammer, but it certainly wasn't a case of just "sliding everything together". Oh well, rested and spry I were, and the new attempts did pay off, but it sure ain't something I'd want to try too often:-) Regards, and thanks again, In a message dated 27/02/2013 03:24:32 GMT Standard Time, rgwood@... writes: ? Howdy back Nigel, <<<¡°but I suspect the 7000 series fittings are different¡±>>> Quite the contrary it appears that they are identical. The trick is not compression of the 115 and 116 but rather the taper and getting 118 to slide into/underneath ?the ?tabs on 115. I use a small nut I taped to prevent scratching in case I slip. I place it on the bench aligned on 115 (just so that it is well seated against 116 and the case. with the inside of the case facing up. ?I then use the snap ring pliers to get 118 sliding into position. The fit is quite tight so trying to get it to slid on with just a screwdriver (or other implement) is difficult at best. The pliers at the following link are the kind I use/have. I modified them by grinding (with a Dremmle and file) ?one of the pins (more or less flat) flat so that it holds on 118 better sliding it onto/under 115. With the pliers as wide open as they are at first there is a slight alignment issue. Anyway it worked ¡°ok¡± even without grinding the pliers pin on the first few. Once you do one or two it will be obvious as to the modification. I, as you; have become convinced that Tektronic's had some kind of a ¡°jig¡± for doing these. ?However my conclusion was that it was likely a set of pliers of some sort that held onto the tabs of 115 making/trivial it easy to slide 118 into place. Finally it does make a difference on what part of 117 you are on. Basically you want to slide everything together as if 118 is in the locked position. Again, hopefully helpful and that you are reading this well rested and spry for the new attempts. Rob ? Many thanks for your reply, the pliers you describe are what we call circlip pliers in the UK but I suspect the 7000 series fittings are different as those pliers wouldn't work for what I'm trying to do. I've created an album in the group photos area called "2901 Time mark Generator" and have uploaded a drawing?to that showing the 2901 covers and fittings. On this version of the drawing, item 115 is the countersunk securing pin, item 116 is the dished serrated spring washer, item 117 is the plastic index plate, and item 118 is the locking plate that I need to latch into a groove?at the end of the pin. My problem is the amount of force that's required to compress item 116, I've tried supporting the head of the pin and pressing?down on the locking plate with a nutdriver that fits over the inside end of the pin?but it just won't press down far enough to allow the locking plate to slide into its groove and I'm concerned that the amount of force I'm having to apply is going to damage the cover around the fitting, especially if I slip. Next up I'm planning to try?a couple of nutdriver heads from a socket set, one pressing on the outside of the countersunk pin and the other over the inside of the pin pressing against the locking plate as before, but this time I'll try compressing them either in a vice or using a G-clamp, which hopefully will allow better control and reduce?the risk of applying pressure to the cover. It's just getting really silly, I keep thinking I'm missing something but what I've got exactly matches the drawing and there must have been an assembly tool for this, there's no way these latches could have been assembled in a production environment without one. In a message dated 26/02/2013 18:00:37 GMT Standard Time, rgwood@... writes: ? I am on the road and cannot provide pictures until the weekend. The case rings/locks on 7000 series boxes sounds very similar to what you describe. ?? In that case, I modified a standard set of ¡°snap ring¡± or ¡°C-ring¡± pliers *at least that what I learned to call them *. They are pliers that in one setting the jaws compress the c-ring to place it internal to a shaft. The other position they expand to open the ring on the outside of a shaft. In any event they work good to push the tab under the slot with very little if any downward force. I¡¯ll send pictures this weekend if needed, Hopefully the description gets you started. Hopefully helpful Thanks as always for the bandwidth. Rob ? ? I'm sure this is?could turn out to be a very silly question, BUT....... Some time ago?I bought a 2901 that was?quite grubby and?removed the top and bottom cover "twist to lock" fixings in order to clean?beneath them. So far so good, and all cleaned up nicely, but I've yet to find a way of getting them back again that isn't likely to cause damage to the covers! The fitting method is simple enough in principle, the locking "lever" drops over a slotted shaped end to the locking "screw" and then slides into place to hold the whole thing together against the tension of?a dished serrated?compression washer?that sits under the countersunk "s crew head", but there's so little give in those compression washers that any attempts so far have risked putting sufficient?pressure on the quite thin aluminium covers to damage them. This is a similar sort of arrangement to the cover fixings on the old 500 series scopes etc but I recall those as being bigger and never causing this sort of aggravation. I'm sure there must have been other small TEK cases with these fasteners, and there has?to be a quick and safe way of fitting them, but I'm wondering now if there was some kind of shaped tool that compressed the fitting from either side without putting pressure on the surrounding metalwork. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. As an aside, for anyone who might be interested, I found some nice internal photos of the 2901 here....
|
Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
Cliff,
I see no reason why you can't set up the trigger to a low frequency wave.? It works fine on every Tektronix 'scope I have ever used.
Use the internal trigger, set it for dc, and with a higher frequency wave you can adjust the level at which it will trigger.? Then slow down to your 1 Hz and you should be good to go.
Bob
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- On Fri, 3/1/13, Cliff White wrote: From: Cliff White Subject: [TekScopes] 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave? To: TekScopes@... Date: Friday, March 1, 2013, 8:12 PM
?
I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a very slow
(less than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or
easy to make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode
I can make it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next
sweep, I just can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?
-Cliff
|
466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a very slow
(less than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or
easy to make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode
I can make it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next
sweep, I just can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?
-Cliff
|
Re: First post - 2465A on the way
|
Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice pulsed line generator??
I should have said GR-874 to BNC female adapter. I suspect the adapter will be better than using a questionable Chinese panel BNC. On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 22:55:06 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas" <iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@...> wrote: Thanks David, seems this GR connectors will cost more than I paid for the whole generator!!. Gabriel. --- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@...> wrote:
I have found Chinese BNC connectors to be dimensionally questionable. So much so that I suspect you would be better off keeping the GR-874 connector and buying one BNC adapter.
I just recent made the jump into GR-874 connectors to support my S-1 and S-2 sampling head habit. Besides being hermaphroditic, I have found them to be very rugged and reliable.
On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 19:45:38 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas" <iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@...> wrote:
Well Craig, what you say is exactly what I think about. Once the generator arrive , and measure the natural pulse length, then I will decide add more or not more length inside, or put a bnc instead GR and have the facility to change pulse width as needed. What suggestion to test if Chinese bnc are useable?...you are talk about dielectric losses..or else? I cant imagine that Chinese not maintain the physical dimension to maintain 50 Ohms..but who know?. Mi first notice that GR are "hermaphrodite" ..we can be confident about sex even in connector matter!! [:D]
What would be useful is add a repetition rate knob adj. Thanks Craig, for your valuable input Gabriel. --- In TekScopes@..., "Craig Sawyers" <c.sawyers@> wrote:
Hi Albert..probably I put some meters of RG147 as fixed(solder) internal
line
in order to obtain a 100nS pulse width. What is the secret about this GR connectors ?, I have the temptation to
replace by a BNC, any wrong with this change?. Gabriel. My version of this generator has a fixed solid line coiled up inside. There
is also a front panel SMA to attach more line if needed.
Nothing special about GR connectors. Essential if you have a lot of GR
gear; they were really GR's solution to a 5GHz connector, introduced in
1943. Then later they introduced the GR900 series that went higher in frequency. Both "hermaphrodite" in that there was not a male and female
connector - everything was identical. There were lots of in-house connectors designed - anyone remember the Rhode&Schwarz Dezifix? All superceded by the N-type for this frequency range. But really, a high quality, branded BNC would be fine (all BNC's are not created equal!)
Craig
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: 2901 Time Mark Generator Case Fixings
Hi Rob,
?
Many thanks for your further reply and, yes, what you used are what we call
circlip pliers but there's no way the pliers I've got?here?would be
strong enough?to use with these fittings.
?
I still don't know if our fittings are identical, they might differ perhaps
in just the detail, or whether Tektronix may have used serrated spring washers
of varying strengths over the years but there's no taper on the latch plate on
these and there's no way the latch plate?would line up with the slot in the
pin without compressing the spring washer 116, which is under the countersunk
head of the pin 115, and that was my whole problem.
?
It was easy enough to get the various items into
position?but?significant pressure was needed simultaneously on the
countersunk head of 115 and the latching plate 118 before the plate would even
begin to line up with the slot.
?
My eventual solution was to use a pair of wire strippers, the old fashioned
sort that have two overlapping sections with V grooves cut into them and at
right angles to the main arms,?in this instance a pair intended for fairly
heavy duty, with some plastic cup washers, the type used under rack fixings, to
protect the?fittings either side of the cover, plus?a couple of plain
washers to delay the mangling of the cup washers.
?
This arrangement allowed me to apply pressure both to the countersunk head
of 115 and also to the plate 118, due to the V groove which straddled the inner
end of 115, in order to compress the cupped spring washer 116.
However,?although the spring washer compressed ok to start with there
came a point where it seemed to bottom out but with the latching plate and slot
still not quite lined up, if I hadn't removed these fittings myself I would have
had very serious doubts at this stage as to whether or not they were what was
previously fitted!
?
Perseverance and?curses,?plus a?few scraped and bloodstained
fingers:-), finally saw each plate in turn sufficiently engaged that it could be
driven home with the assistance of a small hammer, but it certainly wasn't a
case of just "sliding everything together".
?
Oh well, rested and spry I were, and the new attempts did pay off, but it
sure ain't something I'd want to try too often:-)
?
Regards, and thanks again,
?
Nigel
GM8PZR
?
?
In a message dated 27/02/2013 03:24:32 GMT Standard Time,
rgwood@... writes:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Howdy back
Nigel,
<<<¡°but I suspect the 7000
series fittings are different¡±>>>
Quite the
contrary it appears that they are identical. The trick is not compression of
the 115 and 116 but rather the taper and getting 118 to slide into/underneath
?the ?tabs on 115. I use a small nut I taped to prevent scratching
in case I slip. I place it on the bench aligned on 115 (just so that it is
well seated against 116 and the case. with the inside of the case facing up.
?I then use the snap ring pliers to get 118 sliding into position. The
fit is quite tight so trying to get it to slid on with just a screwdriver (or
other implement) is difficult at best. The pliers at the following link are
the kind I use/have. I modified them by grinding (with a Dremmle and file)
?one of the pins (more or less flat) flat so that it holds on 118 better
sliding it onto/under 115. With the pliers as wide open as they are at first
there is a slight alignment issue.
Anyway it
worked ¡°ok¡± even without grinding the pliers pin on the first few. Once you do
one or two it will be obvious as to the modification.
I, as you; have
become convinced that Tektronic's had some kind of a ¡°jig¡± for doing these.
?However my conclusion was that it was likely a set of pliers of some
sort that held onto the tabs of 115 making/trivial it easy to slide 118 into
place.
Finally it does
make a difference on what part of 117 you are on. Basically you want to slide
everything together as if 118 is in the locked position.
Again,
hopefully helpful and that you are reading this well rested and spry for the
new attempts.
Rob
From: TekScopes@...
[mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of
poldhu1901@... Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 7:03
PM To: TekScopes@... Subject: Re: [TekScopes]
2901 Time Mark Generator Case Fixings
?
Many thanks for
your reply, the pliers you describe are what we call circlip pliers in the UK
but I suspect the 7000 series fittings are different as those pliers wouldn't
work for what I'm trying to do.
I've created an
album in the group photos area called "2901 Time mark Generator" and have
uploaded a drawing?to that showing the 2901 covers and
fittings.
On this version
of the drawing, item 115 is the countersunk securing pin, item 116 is the
dished serrated spring washer, item 117 is the plastic index plate, and item
118 is the locking plate that I need to latch into a groove?at the end of
the pin.
My problem is
the amount of force that's required to compress item 116, I've tried
supporting the head of the pin and pressing?down on the locking plate
with a nutdriver that fits over the inside end of the pin?but it just
won't press down far enough to allow the locking plate to slide into its
groove and I'm concerned that the amount of force I'm having to apply is going
to damage the cover around the fitting, especially if I
slip.
Next up I'm
planning to try?a couple of nutdriver heads from a socket set, one
pressing on the outside of the countersunk pin and the other over the inside
of the pin pressing against the locking plate as before, but this time I'll
try compressing them either in a vice or using a G-clamp, which hopefully will
allow better control and reduce?the risk of applying pressure to the
cover.
It's just
getting really silly, I keep thinking I'm missing something but what I've got
exactly matches the drawing and there must have been an assembly tool for
this, there's no way these latches could have been assembled in a production
environment without one.
In a message
dated 26/02/2013 18:00:37 GMT Standard Time, rgwood@...
writes:
?
I
am on the road and cannot provide pictures until the weekend. The case
rings/locks on 7000 series boxes sounds very similar to what you describe.
??
In
that case, I modified a standard set of ¡°snap ring¡± or ¡°C-ring¡± pliers *at
least that what I learned to call them *. They are pliers that in one
setting the jaws compress the c-ring to place it internal to a shaft. The
other position they expand to open the ring on the outside of a shaft.
In
any event they work good to push the tab under the slot with very little if
any downward force. I¡¯ll send pictures this weekend if needed, Hopefully the
description gets you started.
Hopefully
helpful
Thanks
as always for the bandwidth.
Rob
?
?
I'm sure this
is?could turn out to be a very silly question, BUT.......
Some time
ago?I bought a 2901 that was?quite grubby and?removed the top
and bottom cover "twist to lock" fixings in order to clean?beneath
them.
So far so
good, and all cleaned up nicely, but I've yet to find a way of getting them
back again that isn't likely to cause damage to the covers!
The fitting
method is simple enough in principle, the locking "lever" drops over a
slotted shaped end to the locking "screw" and then slides into place to hold
the whole thing together against the tension of?a dished
serrated?compression washer?that sits under the countersunk "s
crew head", but there's so little give in those compression washers that any
attempts so far have risked putting sufficient?pressure on the quite
thin aluminium covers to damage them.
This is a
similar sort of arrangement to the cover fixings on the old 500 series
scopes etc but I recall those as being bigger and never causing this sort of
aggravation. I'm sure there must have been other small TEK cases with these
fasteners, and there has?to be a quick and safe way of fitting them,
but I'm wondering now if there was some kind of shaped tool that compressed
the fitting from either side without putting pressure on the surrounding
metalwork.
Any thoughts would be much
appreciated.
As an aside,
for anyone who might be interested, I found some nice internal photos of the
2901 here....
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Re: 549 with compresssed trace on right third of screen
I wanted to add:
I get the same basic waveform at R341/V343 when selecting either A or B timebases.
Also, neon lamp B171 is _not_ lit - should it be?
Keith
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Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "keithostertag" <keitho@...> wrote:
Hi David-
Thanks for responding, I just yesterday got a chance to look at it.
First checking power supplies, the +350 measured in excess of 470V, and the +500 measured over 580V, both with lots of ripple. I found C760 very leaky and replaced it. That took care of the ripple, but not the level. After some investigation, I replaced V754, now all rails are within spec.
No impact on the trace compression problem, however. I did find that the problem does not appear until after the unit has warmed up for 20 minutes or so.
Thinking maybe the over-voltage on those two rails may have damaged another tube in the horiz amp section, I did a one-by-one substitute of all of them- no change. That included V343, V364, V384, and V398.
Looking today with a test scope, here are a few photos:
You can see the sawtooth going into R343 at grid of V343A is misshaped slightly, but the correct level.
The sawtooth in front of that, at the cathodes of V173 has good shape but seems to be too high a level?
I couldn't find the legend in the manual for how to read the blue voltages given on the schematic- when one is printed on top of another. For instance, at the cathode of V173 the schematic has -3.7 over +60 in blue. How to interpret that?
So do I understand correctly from the above photo that the signal at V173 cathodes is about 35 volts too high?
BTW- the square wave shown on the photos is the input, but not referenced to the same ground point on the test scope as the other traces.
Suggestions on how to proceed?
Thanks, Keith Ostertag
--- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@> wrote:
I have seen this problem before in the vertical direction where a load resistor in the CRT vertical amplifier was open.
Be sure to check power supply voltages and that the deflection plates are actually connected. Sometimes the leads loosen and fall off.
Since the trace unrolls when the position control is used indicating that the sweep signal is not the problem, I would look after that point on schematic 10. There are lots of DC levels shown on the schematic which can be checked to narrow down the possibilities.
Some of the voltages are high so be cautious.
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Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice pulsed line generator??
Thanks Dennis, as soon put my hand on this nice gear , I will consider buy from you the adapter!. Gabriel.
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Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "Dennis Tillman" <dennis@...> wrote: Problem solved! Your best solution is a GR874 to BNC female adapter. With this adapter you don't have to modify the plugin at all. These adapters are readily available and reasonably priced. Once you put that adapter on everything you use to connect to the instrument will be BNC. Since these were specifically made by reliable companies long before the Chinese started making connectors they are 50 ohm and have excellent dimensions and high frequency response.
If you like I can send you a GR to BNC Female adapter for $25 + shipping.
Dennis
-----Original Message----- From: Of iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas, Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 2:55 PM
Thanks David, seems this GR connectors will cost more than I paid for the whole generator!!. Gabriel.
--- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@> wrote:
I have found Chinese BNC connectors to be dimensionally questionable. So much so that I suspect you would be better off keeping the GR-874 connector and buying one BNC adapter.
I just recent made the jump into GR-874 connectors to support my S-1 and S-2 sampling head habit. Besides being hermaphroditic, I have found them to be very rugged and reliable.
On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 19:45:38 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas" <iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@> wrote:
Well Craig, what you say is exactly what I think about. Once the generator arrive , and measure the natural pulse length, then I will decide add more or not more length inside, or put a bnc instead GR and have the facility to change pulse width as needed. What suggestion to test if Chinese bnc are useable?...you are talk about dielectric losses..or else? I cant imagine that Chinese not maintain the physical dimension to maintain 50 Ohms..but who know?. Mi first notice that GR are "hermaphrodite" ..we can be confident about sex even in connector matter!! [:D]
What would be useful is add a repetition rate knob adj. Thanks Craig, for your valuable input Gabriel. --- In TekScopes@..., "Craig Sawyers" <c.sawyers@> wrote:
Hi Albert..probably I put some meters of RG147 as fixed(solder) internal
line
in order to obtain a 100nS pulse width. What is the secret about this GR connectors ?, I have the temptation to
replace by a BNC, any wrong with this change?. Gabriel. My version of this generator has a fixed solid line coiled up inside. There
is also a front panel SMA to attach more line if needed.
Nothing special about GR connectors. Essential if you have a lot of GR
gear; they were really GR's solution to a 5GHz connector, introduced in
1943. Then later they introduced the GR900 series that went higher in frequency. Both "hermaphrodite" in that there was not a male and female
connector - everything was identical. There were lots of in-house connectors designed - anyone remember the Rhode&Schwarz Dezifix? All superceded by the N-type for this frequency range. But really, a high quality, branded BNC would be fine (all BNC's are not created equal!)
Craig
|
Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice pulsed line generator??
You have right Ed ,I just will wait ,as soon the gear coming to my hand a simple measure will give clue about if enough width to calibrated my 2465B high freq adj.. Second the picture, not much line length inside. Gabriel.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "Ed Breya" <edbreya@...> wrote: Don't worry about the connector - worry about the cable. If you add "regular" cable externally, it can increase the pulse width accordingly, but it will show a marked discontinuity and droop during its portion of the pulse, unless it is very low in loss. The best is to continue with the .141 semi-rigid type. Even the smaller .085 type will show a large difference, although it's pretty good stuff. If you use RG-58, you will be very disappointed.
There is a limit to the pulse duration - the line charging circuit has to replenish the charge (figure about ten time constants) to nearly the full supply voltage between shots. With excessive line length, you will have to reduce the repetition rate in order to get to full voltage. It doesn't seem like it would be that big of a deal, but if you do the math considering the joules per pulse and repetition rate, you will find that it takes quite a bit of power to run. The output power is in the 50-100 W range during those nanoseconds of pulsing, and it's less than 50 percent efficient in delivery - not even counting the charging phase. If you hook a 10X or 100X 10 megohm scope probe to the charge line, you can observe the process from the line's point of view, and get a better feel for what's going on in there.
The main thing for these pulsers is to get a fast front edge, then reach and hold a flat zone that's long enough to convey the amplitude information even for lower bandwidth scopes. Increasing the pulse width makes it easier to see and use, but eventually the rep-rate suffers - that is usually more important than pulse width.
Ed
--- In TekScopes@..., "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas" <iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@> wrote:
Well Craig, what you say is exactly what I think about. Once the generator arrive , and measure the natural pulse length, then I will decide add more or not more length inside, or put a bnc instead GR and have the facility to change pulse width as needed. What suggestion to test if Chinese bnc are useable?...you are talk about dielectric losses..or else? I cant imagine that Chinese not maintain the physical dimension to maintain 50 Ohms..but who know?. Mi first notice that GR are "hermaphrodite" ..we can be confident about sex even in connector matter!! [:D]
What would be useful is add a repetition rate knob adj. Thanks Craig, for your valuable input Gabriel. --- In TekScopes@..., "Craig Sawyers" <c.sawyers@> wrote:
Hi Albert..probably I put some meters of RG147 as fixed(solder) internal
line
in order to obtain a 100nS pulse width. What is the secret about this GR connectors ?, I have the temptation to
replace by a BNC, any wrong with this change?. Gabriel. My version of this generator has a fixed solid line coiled up inside. There
is also a front panel SMA to attach more line if needed.
Nothing special about GR connectors. Essential if you have a lot of GR
gear; they were really GR's solution to a 5GHz connector, introduced in
1943. Then later they introduced the GR900 series that went higher in frequency. Both "hermaphrodite" in that there was not a male and female
connector - everything was identical. There were lots of in-house connectors designed - anyone remember the Rhode&Schwarz Dezifix? All superceded by the N-type for this frequency range. But really, a high quality, branded BNC would be fine (all BNC's are not created equal!)
Craig
|
Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice pulsed line generator??
Don't worry about the connector - worry about the cable. If you add "regular" cable externally, it can increase the pulse width accordingly, but it will show a marked discontinuity and droop during its portion of the pulse, unless it is very low in loss. The best is to continue with the .141 semi-rigid type. Even the smaller .085 type will show a large difference, although it's pretty good stuff. If you use RG-58, you will be very disappointed.
There is a limit to the pulse duration - the line charging circuit has to replenish the charge (figure about ten time constants) to nearly the full supply voltage between shots. With excessive line length, you will have to reduce the repetition rate in order to get to full voltage. It doesn't seem like it would be that big of a deal, but if you do the math considering the joules per pulse and repetition rate, you will find that it takes quite a bit of power to run. The output power is in the 50-100 W range during those nanoseconds of pulsing, and it's less than 50 percent efficient in delivery - not even counting the charging phase. If you hook a 10X or 100X 10 megohm scope probe to the charge line, you can observe the process from the line's point of view, and get a better feel for what's going on in there.
The main thing for these pulsers is to get a fast front edge, then reach and hold a flat zone that's long enough to convey the amplitude information even for lower bandwidth scopes. Increasing the pulse width makes it easier to see and use, but eventually the rep-rate suffers - that is usually more important than pulse width.
Ed
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas" <iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@...> wrote: Well Craig, what you say is exactly what I think about. Once the generator arrive , and measure the natural pulse length, then I will decide add more or not more length inside, or put a bnc instead GR and have the facility to change pulse width as needed. What suggestion to test if Chinese bnc are useable?...you are talk about dielectric losses..or else? I cant imagine that Chinese not maintain the physical dimension to maintain 50 Ohms..but who know?. Mi first notice that GR are "hermaphrodite" ..we can be confident about sex even in connector matter!! [:D]
What would be useful is add a repetition rate knob adj. Thanks Craig, for your valuable input Gabriel. --- In TekScopes@..., "Craig Sawyers" <c.sawyers@> wrote:
Hi Albert..probably I put some meters of RG147 as fixed(solder) internal
line
in order to obtain a 100nS pulse width. What is the secret about this GR connectors ?, I have the temptation to
replace by a BNC, any wrong with this change?. Gabriel. My version of this generator has a fixed solid line coiled up inside. There
is also a front panel SMA to attach more line if needed.
Nothing special about GR connectors. Essential if you have a lot of GR
gear; they were really GR's solution to a 5GHz connector, introduced in
1943. Then later they introduced the GR900 series that went higher in frequency. Both "hermaphrodite" in that there was not a male and female
connector - everything was identical. There were lots of in-house connectors designed - anyone remember the Rhode&Schwarz Dezifix? All superceded by the N-type for this frequency range. But really, a high quality, branded BNC would be fine (all BNC's are not created equal!)
Craig
|
Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice pulsed line generator??
Problem solved! Your best solution is a GR874 to BNC female adapter. With this adapter you don't have to modify the plugin at all. These adapters are readily available and reasonably priced. Once you put that adapter on everything you use to connect to the instrument will be BNC. Since these were specifically made by reliable companies long before the Chinese started making connectors they are 50 ohm and have excellent dimensions and high frequency response.
If you like I can send you a GR to BNC Female adapter for $25 + shipping.
Dennis
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: Of iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas, Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 2:55 PM Thanks David, seems this GR connectors will cost more than I paid for the whole generator!!. Gabriel. --- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@...> wrote: I have found Chinese BNC connectors to be dimensionally questionable. So much so that I suspect you would be better off keeping the GR-874 connector and buying one BNC adapter.
I just recent made the jump into GR-874 connectors to support my S-1 and S-2 sampling head habit. Besides being hermaphroditic, I have found them to be very rugged and reliable.
On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 19:45:38 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas" <iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@...> wrote:
Well Craig, what you say is exactly what I think about. Once the generator arrive , and measure the natural pulse length, then I will decide add more or not more length inside, or put a bnc instead GR and have the facility to change pulse width as needed. What suggestion to test if Chinese bnc are useable?...you are talk about dielectric losses..or else? I cant imagine that Chinese not maintain the physical dimension to maintain 50 Ohms..but who know?. Mi first notice that GR are "hermaphrodite" ..we can be confident about sex even in connector matter!! [:D]
What would be useful is add a repetition rate knob adj. Thanks Craig, for your valuable input Gabriel. --- In TekScopes@..., "Craig Sawyers" <c.sawyers@> wrote:
Hi Albert..probably I put some meters of RG147 as fixed(solder) internal
line
in order to obtain a 100nS pulse width. What is the secret about this GR connectors ?, I have the temptation to
replace by a BNC, any wrong with this change?. Gabriel. My version of this generator has a fixed solid line coiled up inside. There
is also a front panel SMA to attach more line if needed.
Nothing special about GR connectors. Essential if you have a lot of GR
gear; they were really GR's solution to a 5GHz connector, introduced in
1943. Then later they introduced the GR900 series that went higher in frequency. Both "hermaphrodite" in that there was not a male and female
connector - everything was identical. There were lots of in-house connectors designed - anyone remember the Rhode&Schwarz Dezifix? All superceded by the N-type for this frequency range. But really, a high quality, branded BNC would be fine (all BNC's are not created equal!)
Craig
|