?

?

I have been studying and working with an FG 502 function generator. I recently went through the adjustment procedure and was able to do everything that did not require a distortion analyzer or spectrum analyzer. Actually I did those adjustments too but eyeballed the sine shape and used my best judgement as what gave the best appearance.

I am not convinced it is operating properly though. I uploaded three picture and perhaps someone who has experience with this unit can tell me if this is as good as it gets or if there is an indication of a fault or two somewhere.



The closeup of the sine shows (barely) that it appears to be composed of a number of signals closely bunched together.

The low frequency square shows that there are a number of tops stacked upon each other. This does not appear at high frequency.

Finally, the closeup of the high frequency square shows what it looks like at high frequency.

I also am unable to adjust the 20V power supply below 21.9 V. I replaced one cracked resistor on the front end of the power supply and am continuing to troubleshoot that problem.

Thanks for any insights.

Phil...

The PG509 manual is not exactly the same as the High Amplitude Pulse
Generator. There were minor modifications and additions made over time, but
it will be more than close enough that the Theory of Operation section will
apply quite nicely and most of the schematic should be the same. Some parts
might have changed, but only in minor ways. Parts may have been moved around
to different places.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf
Of iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 8:09 PM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice
pulsed line generator??

Thanks Dennis and Rob for yours valuable help, second the PG509 manual just
downloaded..no tunnel or step recovery diode, just a robust avalanche
bipolar transistor which is easy replaceable part if coming burn I hope not
the case!!..
Thanks again friends!!
Gabriel.

--- In TekScopes@..., "Dennis Tillman" <dennis@> wrote:

It is the predecessor to the PG109 and the subject or a recent thread.
Look through the archives for more info like this post. The link to
the manual is in this post:



From: Dennis Tillman, Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: [TekScopes] Manual or schematic available for the High
Amplitude PulseGenerator?



Which One? There are three:

. The 1st one Tek made has no Tek part number on it but it does

say

on the front panel: High Amplitude Pulse Generator. This unit has a
Step Attenuator, Variable Amplitude control, and a GR874 plug which
you connect a length of coax to. The coax acts as a charged line and
determines the duration of the output pulse.

. The 2nd one Tek made is in the new color scheme and says PG509
Pulse Generator across the top ribbon. It eliminated the Step
Attenuator, Variable Amplitude, and charge line in favor of a fixed
width fixed amplitude pulse which was then fed into an AT5010
Programmable Attenuator to adjust the amplitude. The manual is available

from www.ko4bb.com.

. The 3rd one Tek made says 067-1094-99 Pulse Generator across the
top ribbon. It is identical, as far as I can tell, to the second one.



I believe they are all essentially the same inside except that the
first one had a Step Attenuator, a Variable Amplitude, and the GR874
plug for the charge line.



Dennis



From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On
Behalf Of iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 3:26 PM

Here the link to this almost new pulsed generator, at first glance is
a transmission line pulser with 300ps ..but no model or number at all.
I just brought it with the hope work right...but a good service manual
will be very appreciated and gratefully.
Link to Pulse Gen.
<
232112
187?autorefresh=true&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7e99ce3b&nma=tru
e&si=w
4%252BkkAkTYIq9sTkPYLC8H98HEpU%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047
675.l2
557>

Regards Gabriel.

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Check the power supply rails for ripple. A fat horizontal trace like those images show is typical of power supply ripple. Loose grounds and shield connections also can cause it, but if your shields and scope are all properly connected, ripple is the most likely problem.
Are your DM500 unit and your scope plugged into the same outlet? If not, you might be experiencing a ground loop. Plug both the TM500 and the scope into the same AC receptacke and see if the trace clears up.

Cheers,
Dave M

Hi phil,

Seeing the noisy signal makes me want to check shields and grounds. maybe a bad coax cable. Do you have the proper load on the output?





Jerry Massengale

LET'S START WITH THE FACTS

This didn't pass the smell test:

Posted By: ejp286, Sun Feb 24, 2013 3:57 pm: I had a depressing
experience last week. I bought my 2nd can of WD40 in forty years. (Yes
I don't spray it on everything and that's why the can lasted 40
years.) First can was bought over the counter in about 1971. The
second can had to be trucked rather than flown from the supplier in
another city and it came with 20, count 'em, 20 pages of health and safety

So I went to my nearest NAPA automotive store (140th Ave, Bellevue, WA
98005
USA) and took the attached picture where the WD40 is located. There
are 150 to 200 different products in this section. As the photo
clearly shows there are no health and safety instructions for WD40 or
for ANY of the products. I asked if there were any papers the store
had to include with my purchase and the clerk said no. When I pressed
for additional details she offered to print the MSDS (Material Safety
Data Sheet) for me. The clerk said that was the only documentation
they had and there was no requirement that it accompany each purchase.



It is hard to believe you live that far from an auto store that you
couldn't pick one up locally but common sense says it's a bad idea to
fly pressurized cans on an airplane. That holds true for lots of things on

BENEFITS AND RISKS

When a doctor prescribes a medicine he has to weigh the good against
the drawbacks. Every chemical, whether it is in a pill or a spray can,
has the potential for good as well as harm. Information in the form of
a MSDS is one way to insure it does the most good, or the least harm.
Some forum members seem to view this information as an unnecessary
burden on business. I like to know what I'm fooling with. I take
personal responsibility seriously and would rather be informed than be
ignorant. But I do know for some that ignorance is preferable to paying

MY TAXES AT WORK

Some forum members think it is a waste of tax payer dollars to
document the warnings and harmful effects of WD40 and all the other
chemicals we come in contact with every day:

Posted By: teamlarryohio, Sun Feb 24, 2013 4:30 pm: Our tax dollars at

I'm not too surprised that some would complain that a MSDS is a waste
of their money since this forum has members that feel everything on
the internet should be free. Someone please explain to me who will
write the manuals they want for free if the author isn't paid for his
or her work? Is there anyone among them who has published anything
significant that they intended in advance would be given away freely?



OUR GOVERNMENT AND THE COSTS OF REGULATION

I have met and listened to my elected officials. The vast majority of
them are reasonable conscientious people doing the best job they can.
They have to balance numerous competing interests when creating
legislation. Here in the US our founding fathers realized the danger
of giving any individual too much power so no one bureaucrat or
legislator has too much. If laws are passed to provide the public with
information on the chemicals that surround them it only because a
majority of elected officials saw that the benefit of this information

Posted By: bhaskins111, Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:33 am: And what just never
seems to make it into print, Is just what all of this adds to the cost
of everything that we have to pay for.

These were decisions that were made in the interests of the MAJORITY.
You have the right to differ. You have the right to run for office or
lobby to change things. But nobody wants to hear somebody wining about it.



HALF THE PEOPLE I KNOW ARE BELOW AVERAGE

Working at a machine shop I quickly learned even a GED (High School
Equivalency Diploma) wasn't a requirement for a job running a CNC machine.
In fact, the company preferred high school dropouts because they
didn't ask questions. Most of you grew up with electricity and
electronics from an early age so it is a given that everyone must know
about the dangers of electricity. But how many of you had parents that
poked a knife into their toaster to get the bread unstuck? How dumb
was that? Toasters come with a warning about that because otherwise
above average people knowingly do below average things.



PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY, LAWYERS, AND A BUSINESS PROTECTING ITSELF

We live in a litigious society where far too many lawyers chase too
few causes. I believe in personal responsibility. If I do something
stupid that's my fault, not a reason for a lawsuit. I know 4 kinds of

. Stupid people and lawyers eager to take them as clients.

. Intelligent people who will do foolish things even though they
know they are foolish.

. Intelligent people who do not have the time to learn the
complexity and risks of the products they own.

. Suspicious people who don't trust anyone to tell them the truth.

I have no idea if time will tell whether there is a causal link
between cell phones and brain cancer but in the meantime I suspect
most members of the forum are one of latter three kinds of people -

But we are the minority.



I would guess that half of the 20 pages of warnings that EJP286
commented about were more likely there for another reason:

Posted By: ke6wez, Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:01 pm: Where we go off the deep
end is with such "Required" warnings as not to use your hair dryer in
the shower and/or tub. Do not place your hands/feet under a lawn more that

There are literally hundreds and even thousands of these sort of
warnings, mandated by lawyers because some dim bulb did not have the
common sense NOT to use a hair dryer in the tub.

These warnings are there to protect businesses from customers doing
foolish things they will do anyway. Where do you draw the line about
what someone will do that they shouldn't? Examples: my wife uses her
hair dryer over the sink all the time but fortunately hair dryers now
come with built in GFI (Ground Fault Interrupters) to protect users; I
continue to drive over the speed limit when I know it's dangerous as, I am

NOTES

Posted By: Stefan Trethan Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:45 PM: I think adding the
metal plates has a very low chance of success by comparison, given
that someone might easily confuse them with metal studs and keep on
going. Also with the other methods you can rely on yourself, with the
plates you have to rely on someone else.

In the US all homes are built with wood studs. These metal plates are
the best solution. They cost pennies and are virtually impossible to
drill through. Everyone would give up wondering what they struck in
the wall before succeeding. Wiring in metal studs requires a different
type of protection.



Posted By: Craig Sawyers, Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:46 AM In fact
professional tools of this sort used on site are often run via an
isolation transformer to give additional safety, particularly in wet
conditions (situation normal in the UK).

There are important differences between the US with 120VAC and Europe
with more lethal line voltage. The regulations in Europe have to be
more stringent because the voltage is lethal under almost all
conditions. I, being a "professional" and lazy, seldom flip a 120V
circuit breaker, preferring to work on circuits live since I "know
what I am doing", Hah! One day that may be my downfall.



Dennis

It is the predecessor to the PG109 and the subject or a recent thread.
Look through the archives for more info like this post. The link to
the manual is in this post:



From: Dennis Tillman, Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: [TekScopes] Manual or schematic available for the High
Amplitude PulseGenerator?



Which One? There are three:

. The 1st one Tek made has no Tek part number on it but it does

on the front panel: High Amplitude Pulse Generator. This unit has a
Step Attenuator, Variable Amplitude control, and a GR874 plug which
you connect a length of coax to. The coax acts as a charged line and
determines the duration of the output pulse.

. The 2nd one Tek made is in the new color scheme and says PG509
Pulse Generator across the top ribbon. It eliminated the Step
Attenuator, Variable Amplitude, and charge line in favor of a fixed
width fixed amplitude pulse which was then fed into an AT5010
Programmable Attenuator to adjust the amplitude. The manual is available

. The 3rd one Tek made says 067-1094-99 Pulse Generator across the
top ribbon. It is identical, as far as I can tell, to the second one.



I believe they are all essentially the same inside except that the
first one had a Step Attenuator, a Variable Amplitude, and the GR874
plug for the charge line.



Dennis



From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On
Behalf Of iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 3:26 PM

Here the link to this almost new pulsed generator, at first glance is
a transmission line pulser with 300ps ..but no model or number at all.
I just brought it with the hope work right...but a good service manual
will be very appreciated and gratefully.
Link to Pulse Gen.
<
232112
187?autorefresh=true&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7e99ce3b&nma=tru
e&si=w
4%252BkkAkTYIq9sTkPYLC8H98HEpU%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047
675.l2
557>

Regards Gabriel.

?

Hi Don,

I posted some close up pictures of the side cover and connector body in a Photo album called "7000 backplane connector".

These are damaged parts from a 7000 extender repair.

The body of the backplane connector can not take any heat without melting, which as you can see, is what ruined these parts.

If you play with the connector and side cover, it is quite obvious that the edge of the side cover closest to the PCB is intended to go on last and come off first. You can take the side cover off from the front edge (edge furthest from the PCB) but?the side cover?is not happy about this method.

tom jobe...

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

----- Original Message -----

From: Don Black

To: TekScopes@...

Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:09 AM

Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Re: 7000 Series Interface Socket Cover Changing

?

Thank you Chris, that helps. Nice clear photos.

Don Black.

On 28-Feb-13 2:38 AM, chrismh_somenumber wrote:

?

Don,

I don't know if it will be helpful to you, but I have uploaded some photos of my 7844 main interface board. One of the plugin sockets is missing a cover, so you can see where the cover snaps onto the top of the socket. There is a similar arrangement on the bottom.

I did not have any trouble gently prying a cover off of a donor scope starting at the top and gently working it off with my fingers.

Pics here:

Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., Don Black wrote:
>
> Thanks Jerry, that makes me feel so much more confident (but what I
> feared). Can you tell me more on how you unpeel them and do you use any
> tool for it.
> Does anyone have a photo of a cover so I can see how it clips on (I
> guess there's a lip that catches).
>
> Don Black.
>
> On 27-Feb-13 11:48 PM, jerry massengale wrote:
> >
> > Hi Don,
> >
> > Good luck on your recasting. It must be a really difficult thing to
> > get the right thickness.
> >
> > I have damaged side pieces by removing them. I had better luck by
> > starting the unpeel at the top or bottom edge and get that edge free
> > before trying the other edge.
> >
> > There is a similar problem removing and installing the rear plastic
> > bracket on plugins. I have found that warming the part with a heat gun
> > helps. Be careful not to overheat and deform. It is a dangerous thing
> > to do but unsnapping cold 40 year old plastic is risky too.
> >
> >
> > Jerry Massengale
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: donblack1au
> > To: TekScopes TekScopes@...>
> > Sent: Wed, Feb 27, 2013 3:11 am
> > Subject: [TekScopes] 7000 Series Interface Socket Cover Changing
> >
> > Hello, I have a 7504 with several interface sockets for the plugins
> > with missing covers. I have a 7603 board to get replacement covers
> > from however I'd like some advice on removing them and replacing them
> > on the 7504. The manual just says "snap the white covers off the side
> > of the connector" and then "snap the covers back on". That sounds fine
> > but with aged plastic that has a reputation for breaking if looked at
> > too hard, I'm afraid any snapping might not be in the way Tektronix
> > meant. So any advice on how to do this with minimum risk of breakage
> > gratefully received. I think they un-clip from the side nearest the
> > board, is this right? Also, in a couple of weeks I'll have a
> > demonstration of plastic casting to reproduce parts and I'm going to
> > see if it's possible to reproduce these covers. I guess one
> > requirement is for a suitable casting plastic to be tough enough to
> > flex and clip on without snapping I'll let you know what I find out.
> > Thanks, Don Black.
> >
> >
>

----- Original Message -----

From: Don Black

To: TekScopes@...

Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:09 AM

Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Re: 7000 Series Interface Socket Cover Changing

?

Thank you Chris, that helps. Nice clear photos.

Don Black.

On 28-Feb-13 2:38 AM, chrismh_somenumber wrote:

?

Don,

I don't know if it will be helpful to you, but I have uploaded some photos of my 7844 main interface board. One of the plugin sockets is missing a cover, so you can see where the cover snaps onto the top of the socket. There is a similar arrangement on the bottom.

I did not have any trouble gently prying a cover off of a donor scope starting at the top and gently working it off with my fingers.

Pics here:

Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., Don Black wrote:
>
> Thanks Jerry, that makes me feel so much more confident (but what I
> feared). Can you tell me more on how you unpeel them and do you use any
> tool for it.
> Does anyone have a photo of a cover so I can see how it clips on (I
> guess there's a lip that catches).
>
> Don Black.
>
> On 27-Feb-13 11:48 PM, jerry massengale wrote:
> >
> > Hi Don,
> >
> > Good luck on your recasting. It must be a really difficult thing to
> > get the right thickness.
> >
> > I have damaged side pieces by removing them. I had better luck by
> > starting the unpeel at the top or bottom edge and get that edge free
> > before trying the other edge.
> >
> > There is a similar problem removing and installing the rear plastic
> > bracket on plugins. I have found that warming the part with a heat gun
> > helps. Be careful not to overheat and deform. It is a dangerous thing
> > to do but unsnapping cold 40 year old plastic is risky too.
> >
> >
> > Jerry Massengale
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: donblack1au
> > To: TekScopes TekScopes@...>
> > Sent: Wed, Feb 27, 2013 3:11 am
> > Subject: [TekScopes] 7000 Series Interface Socket Cover Changing
> >
> > Hello, I have a 7504 with several interface sockets for the plugins
> > with missing covers. I have a 7603 board to get replacement covers
> > from however I'd like some advice on removing them and replacing them
> > on the 7504. The manual just says "snap the white covers off the side
> > of the connector" and then "snap the covers back on". That sounds fine
> > but with aged plastic that has a reputation for breaking if looked at
> > too hard, I'm afraid any snapping might not be in the way Tektronix
> > meant. So any advice on how to do this with minimum risk of breakage
> > gratefully received. I think they un-clip from the side nearest the
> > board, is this right? Also, in a couple of weeks I'll have a
> > demonstration of plastic casting to reproduce parts and I'm going to
> > see if it's possible to reproduce these covers. I guess one
> > requirement is for a suitable casting plastic to be tough enough to
> > flex and clip on without snapping I'll let you know what I find out.
> > Thanks, Don Black.
> >
> >
>

----- Original Message -----

From: John Griessen

To: TekScopes@...

Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 11:33 AM

Subject: Re: [TekScopes] How not to demonstrate a 11801B scope

?

On 02/27/2013 06:44 AM, tmillermdems wrote:
>
>
> Item 251212019353 if the link breaks.
>
> It is the SD24 none the less.

Wonder if 11801's will go cheap and still function some day...

The close up of the screen shows diagonal band of more points and
the band has red and green edges. I wonder what that means, if anything...

?

Don,

I don't know if it will be helpful to you, but I have uploaded some photos of my 7844 main interface board. One of the plugin sockets is missing a cover, so you can see where the cover snaps onto the top of the socket. There is a similar arrangement on the bottom.

I did not have any trouble gently prying a cover off of a donor scope starting at the top and gently working it off with my fingers.

Pics here:

Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., Don Black wrote:
>
> Thanks Jerry, that makes me feel so much more confident (but what I
> feared). Can you tell me more on how you unpeel them and do you use any
> tool for it.
> Does anyone have a photo of a cover so I can see how it clips on (I
> guess there's a lip that catches).
>
> Don Black.
>
> On 27-Feb-13 11:48 PM, jerry massengale wrote:
> >
> > Hi Don,
> >
> > Good luck on your recasting. It must be a really difficult thing to
> > get the right thickness.
> >
> > I have damaged side pieces by removing them. I had better luck by
> > starting the unpeel at the top or bottom edge and get that edge free
> > before trying the other edge.
> >
> > There is a similar problem removing and installing the rear plastic
> > bracket on plugins. I have found that warming the part with a heat gun
> > helps. Be careful not to overheat and deform. It is a dangerous thing
> > to do but unsnapping cold 40 year old plastic is risky too.
> >
> >
> > Jerry Massengale
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: donblack1au
> > To: TekScopes TekScopes@...>
> > Sent: Wed, Feb 27, 2013 3:11 am
> > Subject: [TekScopes] 7000 Series Interface Socket Cover Changing
> >
> > Hello, I have a 7504 with several interface sockets for the plugins
> > with missing covers. I have a 7603 board to get replacement covers
> > from however I'd like some advice on removing them and replacing them
> > on the 7504. The manual just says "snap the white covers off the side
> > of the connector" and then "snap the covers back on". That sounds fine
> > but with aged plastic that has a reputation for breaking if looked at
> > too hard, I'm afraid any snapping might not be in the way Tektronix
> > meant. So any advice on how to do this with minimum risk of breakage
> > gratefully received. I think they un-clip from the side nearest the
> > board, is this right? Also, in a couple of weeks I'll have a
> > demonstration of plastic casting to reproduce parts and I'm going to
> > see if it's possible to reproduce these covers. I guess one
> > requirement is for a suitable casting plastic to be tough enough to
> > flex and clip on without snapping I'll let you know what I find out.
> > Thanks, Don Black.
> >
> >
>

?

Hi,

The white covers are curled in at the top and botton edge to give the snap on action. I do not have a cover handy at the moment but the curl is a bit less than 1/16 inch and forms a curl of maybe half a circle. When I can find it I use a dental pick with a hooked edge.

Jerry Massengale

-----Original Message-----
From: Don Black
To: TekScopes
Sent: Wed, Feb 27, 2013 7:08 am
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7000 Series Interface Socket Cover Changing

?

Thanks Jerry, that makes me feel so much more confident (but what I feared). Can you tell me more on how you unpeel them and do you use any tool for it.
Does anyone have a photo of a cover so I can see how it clips on (I guess there's a lip that catches).

Don Black.

On 27-Feb-13 11:48 PM, jerry massengale wrote:

?

Hi Don,

Good luck on your recasting. It must be a really difficult thing to get the right thickness.

I have damaged side pieces by removing them. I had better luck by starting the unpeel at the top or bottom edge and get that edge free before trying the other edge.

There is a similar problem removing and installing the rear plastic bracket on plugins. I have found that warming the part with a heat gun helps. Be careful not to overheat and deform. It is a dangerous thing to do but unsnapping cold 40 year old plastic is risky too.

Jerry Massengale

-----Original Message-----
From: donblack1au
To: TekScopes
Sent: Wed, Feb 27, 2013 3:11 am
Subject: [TekScopes] 7000 Series Interface Socket Cover Changing

?

Hello, I have a 7504 with several interface sockets for the plugins with missing covers. I have a 7603 board to get replacement covers from however I'd like some advice on removing them and replacing them on the 7504. The manual just says "snap the white covers off the side of the connector" and then "snap the covers back on". That sounds fine but with aged plastic that has a reputation for breaking if looked at too hard, I'm afraid any snapping might not be in the way Tektronix meant. So any advice on how to do this with minimum risk of breakage gratefully received. I think they un-clip from the side nearest the board, is this right? Also, in a couple of weeks I'll have a demonstration of plastic casting to reproduce parts and I'm going to see if it's possible to reproduce these covers. I guess one requirement is for a suitable casting plastic to be tough enough to flex and clip on without snapping I'll let you know what I find out.
Thanks, Don Black.