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Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up

 

1 wire temp sensor


--- On Sun, 2/24/13, Chin Siang Lim wrote:

From: Chin Siang Lim
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up
To: TekScopes@...
Date: Sunday, February 24, 2013, 6:26 PM

?


Great piece of temperature measurement by Patrick.
The grp can consider two ways to measure the temp with cover on:
1. Use a good thermister- EPCOS B57862S282A9 Miniature Bead Thermistor. Not so accurate but god enough since you can compare with surrounding Ics. Accuracy up to? 1 to 2degree C is achievable. ?US 50cents per piece, ?Ebay.?
2. Use the LM35DZ, To92. Pretty accurate. Us $1 per piece. Ebay. ?

Both can be sticked to the Ic/heatsink? and the wires can be outside the scope. ?
cslim


Re: Tektronix TM500 Extender Cable

 

Dave,

The pins for custom signal connections could be ignored in an extender cable. Those pins are to allow the user to interconnect the rear in/outs between plugins.
For ex, you could take the rear trig out from a function gen & connect it to the rear sig in of a counter.
You may have noticed that most measuring modules have a front panel switch which allows you to select Front/Rear input.
This lets you monitor the FG's frequency without adding front panel clutter. Since you only use an extender for troubleshooting or repair, monitoring another plugin is unnecessary.

All these backplane pins are unwired from the factory.
Tek sold a little kit which had extra keys & a fist-full of jumper wires.

On the edge-card end (male), you will notice that there are several keyway slots.
This allows the user to key the mainframe so that only a counter will fit into a specific slot, while only a DM will fit in another, etc.
This ensures that the user could not reverse the 2 plugins which I used in my example above. It wouldn't hurt anything, but the rear connection scheme wouldn't work.
All TM500 plugins will have one key slot which would prevent swapping 5000 series scope plugins into a TM500 mainframe.
In addition, all DM's would have an additional key, all DC's would have a different additional one, all PS's still another.
By adding extra barrier keys, the user can prevent plugins from being swapped around & negating the interconnection feature.

The extender has to accommodate all these different possible barrier keys in the mainframe, hence all the edge-card slots.

I looked on my Tek-made extender. The 17 thicker wires go to the bottom 17 pins. All the smaller wires go to the remaining top pins.
I did not open up the connectors to see which side of the board they connect to.

HankC, Boston
WA1HOS


Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up

 


Great piece of temperature measurement by Patrick.
The grp can consider two ways to measure the temp with cover on:
1. Use a good thermister- EPCOS B57862S282A9 Miniature Bead Thermistor. Not so accurate but god enough since you can compare with surrounding Ics. Accuracy up to? 1 to 2degree C is achievable. ?US 50cents per piece, ?Ebay.?
2. Use the LM35DZ, To92. Pretty accurate. Us $1 per piece. Ebay. ?

Both can be sticked to the Ic/heatsink? and the wires can be outside the scope. ?
cslim


Re: Which Tektronix Signal generator?

Peter Gottlieb
 

I have a 8660C which I use frequently. One of the plugins will allow you to go down to 10 kHz, another up to 2.6 GHz and that is very nice. Yes, these are very heavy. I found that mine (and apparently most others) barely meet their spurious spec, so watch that if your application is sensitive to it. Likely the specs are way better than you need anyway. The big problem with this unit is its complexity and very involved alignment. I've had several failures while I owned it, all stupid components like capacitors or analog chips. Unless you have the extenders (which I don't, but at one point borrowed from someone to fix a tough issue) it is very difficult to troubleshoot. I ended up picking up a "dead" parts unit really cheap (shipping cost more than the unit) and now just get to the board causing the problem and swap it. Of course, since then, the unit has been stable, so I must have intimidated it with that move. The alignment is a real bear and I was surprised how much the thing drifts out internally. Let it warm up for a couple of days before aligning... With all the necessary gear it can take hours to align the thing and you need a big bench with lots of space as you need it this way and that, opening sections, swinging subchassis out, removing the display control section, etc.

If you're interested in further details a lot of my questions and adventures are in the archives of the HP-Agilent forum. One of the guys there was involved in the redesign of that unit so knows it pretty well.

Peter

On 2/24/2013 10:44 AM, Dave Daniel wrote:

I have an HP 8660D which I like. It uses plug-ins and will generate signals up to 2.6 GHz with the right plug-ins (and the 11661B optional frequency extension option). I also have a couple of 8660Cs which I need to sell. These units are very heavy but work well. You can look at the specs for the C in a mid-80s HP catalog; the D showed up in the late 80s, IIRC.

DaveD

On 2/24/2013 7:22 AM, Jim wrote:
Two points .... first, you need to get a unit with Option 002* installed. This option gives operation from 512 MHz to 1024 MHz. Without it, the generator will INDICATE the higher frequencies, but will have zero output.

Second, the plastic gears inside the HP8640B are known to be fragile, and if they break, the repair is non-trivial. I understand there's a fellow who can provide brass gears, but I haven't looked into this yet, as neither of my HP8640Bs have failed. Yet.

Other than that, these generators are superb instruments.

73
Jim N6OTQ

* Major options are:
001 -- enhanced AM modulation
002 -- expanded frequency coverage
003 -- 25W reverse power input protection

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Rich Miller <av8torrich@...>
*To:* TekScopes@...
*Sent:* Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:58 AM
*Subject:* RE: [TekScopes] Which Tektronix Signal generator?

To get up to 1GHz, you cannot go wrong with a HP8640B for your
application. Of course, it's not on the light side, but does fit pretty
nicely on a modest work bench.
Rich
*From:*TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] *On
Behalf Of *mirasad31415
*Sent:* Sunday, February 24, 2013 8:27 AM
*To:* TekScopes@...
*Subject:* [TekScopes] Which Tektronix Signal generator?
I am trying to narrow down my choice of a signal generator for my shack.

I would be glad to have your opinion on which Sig Gen to buy
I need something that covers from 0.01 MHz to 1000 MHz or preferably up
to 3000 MHz. If the sig gen goes up to 1000MHZ a second set to cover 1 to
3 Gig would have to be purchased later. At the moment I have several
oscillators to cover the 1 to 3 Gig range. Carrier noise better than
-80DBc at 10 kHz would be okay. Nothing too fancy but sweep capability,
AM and FM is needed.

I do not want to buy a very heavy post world war device although I admire
them and have a few RT sets from olden times. I have to have it courier
shipped to Pakistan and THAT costs.

Prefer Tek or HP, and something for which I can get the service manual
which is a must have.

I will be using it to play around with building transmitters and
receivers for my ham gear.

Azzythehillbilly
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <>
Version: 10.0.1430 / Virus Database: 2641/5628 - Release Date: 02/24/13


Re: Which Tektronix Signal generator?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I have an HP 8660D which I like. It uses plug-ins and will generate signals up to 2.6 GHz with the right plug-ins (and the 11661B optional frequency extension option). I also have a couple of 8660Cs which I need to sell. These units are very heavy but work well. You can look at the specs for the C in a mid-80s HP catalog; the D showed up in the late 80s, IIRC.

DaveD

On 2/24/2013 7:22 AM, Jim wrote:

?
Two points .... first, you need to get a unit with Option 002* installed. ?This option gives operation from 512 MHz to 1024 MHz. ?Without it, the generator will INDICATE the higher frequencies, but will have zero output.

Second, the plastic gears inside the HP8640B are known to be fragile, and if they break, the repair is non-trivial. ?I understand there's a fellow who can provide brass gears, but I haven't looked into this yet, as neither of my HP8640Bs have failed. ?Yet.

Other than that, these generators are superb instruments.

73
Jim N6OTQ

* Major options are:
001 -- enhanced AM modulation
002 -- expanded frequency coverage
003 -- 25W reverse power input protection


From: Rich Miller
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:58 AM
Subject: RE: [TekScopes] Which Tektronix Signal generator?

To get up to 1GHz, you cannot go wrong with a HP8640B for your application.? Of course, it's not on the light side, but does fit pretty nicely on a modest work bench.
?
Rich
?
From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of mirasad31415
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 8:27 AM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] Which Tektronix Signal generator?
?
?
I am trying to narrow down my choice of a signal generator for my shack.

I would be glad to have your opinion on which Sig Gen to buy
I need something that covers from 0.01 MHz to 1000 MHz or preferably up to 3000 MHz. If the sig gen goes up to 1000MHZ a second set to cover 1 to 3 Gig would have to be purchased later. At the moment I have several oscillators to cover the 1 to 3 Gig range. Carrier noise better than -80DBc at 10 kHz would be okay. Nothing too fancy but sweep capability, AM and FM is needed.

I do not want to buy a very heavy post world war device although I admire them and have a few RT sets from olden times. I have to have it courier shipped to Pakistan and THAT costs.

Prefer Tek or HP, and something for which I can get the service manual which is a must have.

I will be using it to play around with building transmitters and receivers for my ham gear.

Azzythehillbilly


RES: TR503 up for auction

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Gordon,

?

I am in Brazil and would like to BID on the TR-503. Can you ship to me in Brazil?

?

If this is OK, I will put some bids, but ebay say that ¡°Th=e selle cant send oversea¡±.

?

Please, if you agree to send out USA, please let me to know.

?

Best regards,

Marcus

?

De: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] Em nome de gldinnc
Enviada em: domingo, 24 de fevereiro de 2013 11:08
Para: TekScopes@...
Assunto: [TekScopes] TR503 up for auction

?

?

I have a nice TR503 that is at $0.99 right now. The auction expires tomorrow morning, early.

Sorry for the intrusion on those who aren't interested, but this deserves a nice home, not a profit item for resellers.

Gordon, KA2NLM


Re: Which Tektronix Signal generator?

 

I have the 8642B and highly recommend it. 100 kHz to 2.1 GHz range. Extremely high quality CW, AM and FM signals. Frequency sweep capability. It is quite heavy, though.

The 8648 models are newer, much lighter in weight but more expensive.

The 8640B has too much mechanical complexity for my liking, with regards to the bandswitching, FM deviation switching, and the cavity-tuned oscillator. Because of the mechanical cavity-tuned oscillator, there is no frequency sweep capability beyond feeding a sawtooth wave into the external FM modulation input.

Good luck with your choice.

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@..., "mirasad31415" <mirasad31415@...> wrote:

I am trying to narrow down my choice of a signal generator for my shack.

I would be glad to have your opinion on which Sig Gen to buy
I need something that covers from 0.01 MHz to 1000 MHz or preferably up to 3000 MHz. If the sig gen goes up to 1000MHZ a second set to cover 1 to 3 Gig would have to be purchased later. At the moment I have several oscillators to cover the 1 to 3 Gig range. Carrier noise better than -80DBc at 10 kHz would be okay. Nothing too fancy but sweep capability, AM and FM is needed.

I do not want to buy a very heavy post world war device although I admire them and have a few RT sets from olden times. I have to have it courier shipped to Pakistan and THAT costs.

Prefer Tek or HP, and something for which I can get the service manual which is a must have.

I will be using it to play around with building transmitters and receivers for my ham gear.

Azzythehillbilly


465M blowing a fuse

 

Oh boy.... well, OUR starting point?fix for these scopes is to re-cap all of the LV caps... Take the cans off the board, re-stuff, and replace..... Got to start somewhere ! Our experience with these "M" is based on that protocol first. Then maybe fix whatever else is died.
?
Thanks
?
Ashley
?
?
Thank You
Kiss-Electronics
Ms Ashley Hall
183 N 5th Avenue
Cornelius, Oregon
97113
?
?
W7DUZ
?
?

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Wong
To: TekScopes
Sent: Sun, Feb 24, 2013 7:01 am
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up

I'm with the school of thought regarding not stressing U800 mechanically, so I
used this particular heat sink.  One thing nice about the 2465A/2467 generation
is that they still have Tektronix-produced U800.

To provide some data regarding this particular heat sink, I turned on my 2465A
and left it running for one hour, with the cabinet on.

Then I removed the cabinet, turned the power back on, and measured temperature
of some of the hybrids using my Fluke instant read IR thermometer.

Here are my measurements, at 72 degrees F ambient temp:

U100, U200 CH1 and CH2 preamps:  92 degrees F
U400 Channel Switch:  84 degrees
U500 A/B Trigger:  81 degrees
U600 Vertical Output:  91 degrees
U700 A Sweep:  84 degrees
U800 Horizontal Output:  115 degrees upon restoring power, rising to 122 degrees
on the heat sink and the threaded stud nearest the edge of the unit.  When the
heat sink was 122 degrees, the threaded stud near the center of the unit (which
contacts the IC's metal tab) measured 106 degrees.  I turned off the scope power
after U800 got up to 122 degrees F.

It is unfortunate that there is no easy way to assess the temp of U800 when the
scope is installed in its cabinet.

I'd be interested to see temp measurements from other group members who have a
different heat sink or no heat sink on U800.

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@..., "Patrick Wong" <patwong3@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Here is one possible solution:
> <>
>
> Basically a low-profile heat sink is needed that will not contact the cabinet
bottom.
>
> Patrick Wong AK6C
>
> --- In TekScopes@..., Steve  wrote:
> >
> > I've seen reference to additional cooling for U800 in several postings.
> > Is there somewhere on the internet that suggests how to go about doing that?
>




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Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up

 

I'm with the school of thought regarding not stressing U800 mechanically, so I used this particular heat sink. One thing nice about the 2465A/2467 generation is that they still have Tektronix-produced U800.

To provide some data regarding this particular heat sink, I turned on my 2465A and left it running for one hour, with the cabinet on.

Then I removed the cabinet, turned the power back on, and measured temperature of some of the hybrids using my Fluke instant read IR thermometer.

Here are my measurements, at 72 degrees F ambient temp:

U100, U200 CH1 and CH2 preamps: 92 degrees F
U400 Channel Switch: 84 degrees
U500 A/B Trigger: 81 degrees
U600 Vertical Output: 91 degrees
U700 A Sweep: 84 degrees
U800 Horizontal Output: 115 degrees upon restoring power, rising to 122 degrees on the heat sink and the threaded stud nearest the edge of the unit. When the heat sink was 122 degrees, the threaded stud near the center of the unit (which contacts the IC's metal tab) measured 106 degrees. I turned off the scope power after U800 got up to 122 degrees F.

It is unfortunate that there is no easy way to assess the temp of U800 when the scope is installed in its cabinet.

I'd be interested to see temp measurements from other group members who have a different heat sink or no heat sink on U800.

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@..., "Patrick Wong" <patwong3@...> wrote:

Hi Steve,

Here is one possible solution:
<>

Basically a low-profile heat sink is needed that will not contact the cabinet bottom.

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@..., Steve <steve65@> wrote:

I've seen reference to additional cooling for U800 in several postings.
Is there somewhere on the internet that suggests how to go about doing that?


Re: 465M blows internal .25A fuse

 

Hello,
Finally got back to repairing my 465m scope. Still can't figure why I'm blowing the 1/4 amp fuse. I powered up the scope with a variac and increased the unreg 32 volts to 20 volts before blowing fuse. I then removed leads 9 and 10 from the T550 transformer and was able to increase to 35 volts before blowing fuse but it still blew. Not sure which direction to go or what to look at next.
Have a great day and thanks for the input,
Bob

--- In TekScopes@..., Bert Haskins <bhaskins@...> wrote:

On 01/14/2013 10:49 PM, Bob wrote:

Hello,
I know this is an old post but I'm having the same problem ,only the
power supply side of the blown fuse measures +58vdc. Is this higher
voltage due to bad caps blowing the 1/4 amp fuse or is this voltage
within a normal range for the unreg +32 volts?
Have a great day,
Bob

--- In TekScopes@... <mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>,
"Bloy2004" wrote:

I have a 465M scope and after a while the display went dead.
Examining the internals revealed the 1/4A fuse was blown and
continues to blow after replacement. I have a manual, but nothing
is said about causes for this fuse blowing. Without the fuse in
place, I get +55VDC from the power supply Cap side (+32VDC
unregulated), and +.5VDC from the HV transformer side (pin 4 of part
T550). Where there should be +95VDC, I get only 11.4 VDC.
Questions:
1.What are the most likely causes for this fuse blowing, when all
was working fine.
2.What are the poosible causes for the +95Vdc to be way low.


Any responses welcome...
Sorry for the delay in answering this.
FWIW I've been involved with several 465Ms ( I own two ) and in every
case have had to
replace both CR582 and CR584 [ sheet 8 ].. 95 volt supply.
Ohmmeter checks don't mean much here as the leakage seems to happen at
higher voltages.
Aluminium caps have worked well for me.
The 'M"s are a decent piece of gear, the only other problem that I've
had was with the
intensity pot being noisy, tried cleaning but eventually just replaced it.


Re: Which Tektronix Signal generator?

Jim
 

Two points .... first, you need to get a unit with Option 002* installed. ?This option gives operation from 512 MHz to 1024 MHz. ?Without it, the generator will INDICATE the higher frequencies, but will have zero output.

Second, the plastic gears inside the HP8640B are known to be fragile, and if they break, the repair is non-trivial. ?I understand there's a fellow who can provide brass gears, but I haven't looked into this yet, as neither of my HP8640Bs have failed. ?Yet.

Other than that, these generators are superb instruments.

73
Jim N6OTQ

* Major options are:
001 -- enhanced AM modulation
002 -- expanded frequency coverage
003 -- 25W reverse power input protection


From: Rich Miller
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:58 AM
Subject: RE: [TekScopes] Which Tektronix Signal generator?

To get up to 1GHz, you cannot go wrong with a HP8640B for your application.? Of course, it's not on the light side, but does fit pretty nicely on a modest work bench.
?
Rich
?
From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of mirasad31415
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 8:27 AM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] Which Tektronix Signal generator?
?
?
I am trying to narrow down my choice of a signal generator for my shack.

I would be glad to have your opinion on which Sig Gen to buy
I need something that covers from 0.01 MHz to 1000 MHz or preferably up to 3000 MHz. If the sig gen goes up to 1000MHZ a second set to cover 1 to 3 Gig would have to be purchased later. At the moment I have several oscillators to cover the 1 to 3 Gig range. Carrier noise better than -80DBc at 10 kHz would be okay. Nothing too fancy but sweep capability, AM and FM is needed.

I do not want to buy a very heavy post world war device although I admire them and have a few RT sets from olden times. I have to have it courier shipped to Pakistan and THAT costs.

Prefer Tek or HP, and something for which I can get the service manual which is a must have.

I will be using it to play around with building transmitters and receivers for my ham gear.

Azzythehillbilly


TR503 up for auction

 

I have a nice TR503 that is at $0.99 right now. The auction expires tomorrow morning, early.

Sorry for the intrusion on those who aren't interested, but this deserves a nice home, not a profit item for resellers.

Gordon, KA2NLM


Re: Which Tektronix Signal generator?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

To get up to 1GHz, you cannot go wrong with a HP8640B for your application.? Of course, it's not on the light side, but does fit pretty nicely on a modest work bench.

?

Rich

?

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of mirasad31415
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 8:27 AM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] Which Tektronix Signal generator?

?

?

I am trying to narrow down my choice of a signal generator for my shack.

I would be glad to have your opinion on which Sig Gen to buy
I need something that covers from 0.01 MHz to 1000 MHz or preferably up to 3000 MHz. If the sig gen goes up to 1000MHZ a second set to cover 1 to 3 Gig would have to be purchased later. At the moment I have several oscillators to cover the 1 to 3 Gig range. Carrier noise better than -80DBc at 10 kHz would be okay. Nothing too fancy but sweep capability, AM and FM is needed.

I do not want to buy a very heavy post world war device although I admire them and have a few RT sets from olden times. I have to have it courier shipped to Pakistan and THAT costs.

Prefer Tek or HP, and something for which I can get the service manual which is a must have.

I will be using it to play around with building transmitters and receivers for my ham gear.

Azzythehillbilly


Which Tektronix Signal generator?

 

I am trying to narrow down my choice of a signal generator for my shack.

I would be glad to have your opinion on which Sig Gen to buy
I need something that covers from 0.01 MHz to 1000 MHz or preferably up to 3000 MHz. If the sig gen goes up to 1000MHZ a second set to cover 1 to 3 Gig would have to be purchased later. At the moment I have several oscillators to cover the 1 to 3 Gig range. Carrier noise better than -80DBc at 10 kHz would be okay. Nothing too fancy but sweep capability, AM and FM is needed.

I do not want to buy a very heavy post world war device although I admire them and have a few RT sets from olden times. I have to have it courier shipped to Pakistan and THAT costs.

Prefer Tek or HP, and something for which I can get the service manual which is a must have.

I will be using it to play around with building transmitters and receivers for my ham gear.

Azzythehillbilly


Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up

 

Using another scope and a DMM, refer to the repair manual and verify whether all power supply voltages and ripple are within spec. Note any voltages/ripple which are out of spec.

Assuming one or more voltages/ripple are out of spec, then perform the low voltage power supply recap.

It would be nice if the low voltage PS was the only issue. However my guess is that your scope has a problem with CH1/CH2 as well.

In any event, the first step always should be to ensure the power supply is working correctly. Good luck.

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@..., "machineguy59" <machineguy59@...> wrote:
...This convinced me I have a gain problem in both Ch1 and Ch2. I also have a "sawtooth problem" in these same channels. Do you think these symptoms can be related? Would a noisy LVPS mess up the gain in the preamps? Or do you think I have two separate problems that just affect Ch1 and Ch2?


Re: TM500/5000 Extender Cable Wire Gauges

 

--- In TekScopes@..., John Griessen <john@...> wrote:

On 02/23/2013 09:21 AM, Egge Siert wrote:
Good point. I accidentally switched the last two. It is indeed 34/28 AWG.
Hi Egge,

Is it that thin? 34 AWG and 28 AWG? Those are power handling wires for the
pass transistors, and 28 seems thin...
-----------------
Here's the Data Sheet and wire specs.

/H?kan


Re: Tektronix TM500 Extender Cable

 

Hi Dave,

See all messages on this Post:

Tek TM flex extender wire gauge

Dan has made this list in the past. This will save me a moment (or two). Accidentally he mentioned 14AWG instead of 20AWG.

Greetings

Egge Siert


Re: Tek TM flex extender wire gauge

 

Hi to you,

The discussion about the wiring gauges is getting out of control.

It is 17 times 20AWG not 14AWG. We are not in the welding business.

And 34 times 28AWG for the Signal Lines.

Greetings,

Egge Siert

NOOT: and thank you Dan for the list of to be made connections in a DIY Extender Project.


Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up

 

Thanks for the heads up. I never overtighten but your caution will be observed when I do this work. Thanks,

Mac

--- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@...> wrote:

I remember reading somewhere on this list that over tightening the nut that holds U800 to the PCB can possibly cause the chip to fail. Seems it applies stress to the die and bond wires. I don't remember where I saw it.



----- Original Message -----
From: machineguy59
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 1:45 AM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up



Cslim,

Great suggestions. I think I will combine a version of 1 and 3. I will buy steel "mending plates", the kind that look like door hinges but are really just steel plates with holes. Drill new holes to line up with the screws. And use this DIY steel strap to hold a copper plate against U800. Will probably put a bit of thermal grease between the copper plate and U800. I will taek pictures when I have this working. Thanks for a great idea(s).

Mac

--- In TekScopes@..., Chin Siang Lim wrote:
>
> I do it three quick and dirty ways:
> 1. Buy suitable door hinges. The two screw holes are offset nicely. Get
> the right ones, add heat sink and screw into the stud(s) to seat them flat
> on top of u800. Add washers, or screws, where needed.
> 2. in DIY shops, buy tags with two holes, similar size to large paper
> clips, and screw them on.
> 3. My favourite- get small thick copper plates , a little smaller in size
> than u800. Get some valve/tube solder lugs. Use the lugs to solder onto the
> cooper plate to hold the copper plate in place.
>
> As long as the height of these heat sink does not exceed the height of the
> two side screws, no fear of shorting voltage to casing.
>
> Cslim
>
> On Sunday, February 24, 2013, Patrick Wong wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > Here is one possible solution:
> > >
> >
> > Basically a low-profile heat sink is needed that will not contact the
> > cabinet bottom.
> >
> > Patrick Wong AK6C
> >
> > --- In TekScopes@...
> 'TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com');>, Steve wrote:
> > >
> > > I've seen reference to additional cooling for U800 in several postings.
> > > Is there somewhere on the internet that suggests how to go about doing
> > that?
> >
> >
> >
>


Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I remember reading somewhere on this list that over tightening the nut that holds U800 to the PCB can possibly cause the chip to fail. Seems it applies stress to the die and bond wires. I don't remember where I saw it.
?
?
?

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 1:45 AM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: New here with a 2465 to clean up

?

Cslim,

Great suggestions. I think I will combine a version of 1 and 3. I will buy steel "mending plates", the kind that look like door hinges but are really just steel plates with holes. Drill new holes to line up with the screws. And use this DIY steel strap to hold a copper plate against U800. Will probably put a bit of thermal grease between the copper plate and U800. I will taek pictures when I have this working. Thanks for a great idea(s).

Mac

--- In TekScopes@..., Chin Siang Lim wrote:
>
> I do it three quick and dirty ways:
> 1. Buy suitable door hinges. The two screw holes are offset nicely. Get
> the right ones, add heat sink and screw into the stud(s) to seat them flat
> on top of u800. Add washers, or screws, where needed.
> 2. in DIY shops, buy tags with two holes, similar size to large paper
> clips, and screw them on.
> 3. My favourite- get small thick copper plates , a little smaller in size
> than u800. Get some valve/tube solder lugs. Use the lugs to solder onto the
> cooper plate to hold the copper plate in place.
>
> As long as the height of these heat sink does not exceed the height of the
> two side screws, no fear of shorting voltage to casing.
>
> Cslim
>
> On Sunday, February 24, 2013, Patrick Wong wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > Here is one possible solution:
> > >
> >
> > Basically a low-profile heat sink is needed that will not contact the
> > cabinet bottom.
> >
> > Patrick Wong AK6C
> >
> > --- In TekScopes@...
> 'TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com');>, Steve wrote:
> > >
> > > I've seen reference to additional cooling for U800 in several postings.
> > > Is there somewhere on the internet that suggests how to go about doing
> > that?
> >
> >
> >
>