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Extender Card for TM500/TM5000 with Test points on every line.

 

--I have designed a Male to Female Extender Card designed to install between a flexible Extender cable (067-0645-02) and the Plug-in being tested.
It uses a 4-pin, 0.1" pitch header on each line jumpered between pins 2 and 3 to connect through, but removable to measure current. etc. With the jumper installed pins 1 and 4 are available as test points on the line. The board is 2.5" long not including Female connector, and 4.5 inches wide to accommodate the 28-position Female connector and PCB edge fingers
It will have 4 slots between the fingers in the standard keying locations for the TM500 series modules.
The cost to make the board properly with hard gold over nickel fingers is more than I want to spend for the 2 boards I need ($300). If anyone else is interested in a well made pcb like this let me know. I used Sullin for my Female connector -- they are excellent.
Steve


Re: electronics help?

 

Ryan,

Please post a list of what she has available!!! Esp if close to Portland.

My daughter is there and can pick up for me!!??


Re: front panel knobs of 2465 2446 2336 falling off

 

On 2/13/25 22:14, Ozan wrote:
Hot glue worked well for the repair I did. In case they got damaged while trying to remove the bezel: you don't need to pull out the knobs, they slide off with the bezel.
Thanks for the suggestions. Since parts of what hold the knobs are now gone, I'm going to try hot glue.
If it is wobbly afterwards, I can reheat and try centering again until good. Good to know about the bezel -- these knobs never need to come off unless damaged.


Re: front panel knobs of 2465 2446 2336 falling off

 

On Thu, Feb 13, 2025 at 08:54 PM, John Griessen wrote:


I had one cracked knob on a 2465, so I pulled another to be able to use that
pot, and the pulled one lost most of its spring clip
that keeps it on the shaft of the pot.

What methods are known to work well for using knobs like in my photo that have
lost some of their spring clip parts?
Hot glue worked well for the repair I did. In case they got damaged while trying to remove the bezel: you don't need to pull out the knobs, they slide off with the bezel. See the link below for pictures.

/g/TekScopes/album?id=259435

Ozan


Re: front panel knobs of 2465 2446 2336 falling off

 

Less permanently RTV-748 is electrical grade and soft enough that you
can pry it off if need be but still thick enough to prevent air from
flowing so you get a suction cup with a thin film of it.

On Thu, Feb 13, 2025 at 11:54?PM John Griessen via groups.io
<john@...> wrote:

I had one cracked knob on a 2465, so I pulled another to be able to use that pot, and the pulled one lost most of its spring clip
that keeps it on the shaft of the pot.

What methods are known to work well for using knobs like in my photo that have lost some of their spring clip parts?

Does epoxy putty help a knob stay on? Does epoxy putty work too well and never come off?







Re: front panel knobs of 2465 2446 2336 falling off

 

Personally I recommend ultra low melt temp hot glue. It works well to stick it on, but if you need to remove it you can use a heat gun on low setting to warm up the knob and soften the adhesive to remove it.

It can be a little messy and perhaps too "permanent" for some people.

Benjamin


Re: front panel knobs of 2465 2446 2336 falling off

 

Hi John,

Are you sure they are pushed all the way on?

-Evan

On Thu, Feb 13, 2025 at 11:54?PM John Griessen via groups.io
<john@...> wrote:

I had one cracked knob on a 2465, so I pulled another to be able to use that pot, and the pulled one lost most of its spring clip
that keeps it on the shaft of the pot.

What methods are known to work well for using knobs like in my photo that have lost some of their spring clip parts?

Does epoxy putty help a knob stay on? Does epoxy putty work too well and never come off?







front panel knobs of 2465 2446 2336 falling off

 

I had one cracked knob on a 2465, so I pulled another to be able to use that pot, and the pulled one lost most of its spring clip that keeps it on the shaft of the pot.

What methods are known to work well for using knobs like in my photo that have lost some of their spring clip parts?

Does epoxy putty help a knob stay on? Does epoxy putty work too well and never come off?


Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

Yeah, I noticed as a kid that the colas etched my teeth. Even then, probably 55 years ago, I knew that wasn¡¯t good!

Jim

On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:25?PM, ed breya <eb@...> wrote:

?Also look into "gun bluing" for rustproofing. I have seen many equipment handle core/spring things with that characteristic deep blue color.

Ed





Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

On 2/13/25 12:40, Roy J. Tellason, Sr. via groups.io wrote:
If you can find a person or company that does this kind of work a custom leather handle would look nice on the TM.
Hmm, there being a lot of Amish around here that's a distinct possibility...
I'm not Amish, but maybe I could be?






I re-handled this ancient kennedy toolkit 15 years ago with a sewing awl. Feels good to carry.
Made like the 1930s 1940s original... this kit is for antique house repairs.

I have lots of kits... :-)


Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

Also look into "gun bluing" for rustproofing. I have seen many equipment handle core/spring things with that characteristic deep blue color.

Ed


Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

AFAIK, no, though Naval Jelly is another alternative, although messier.

The key with Ospho is that it converts iron oxide to iron phosphate and
thus prevents further rusting.

One can find it in local hardware stores or on Amazon.

DaveD
KC0WJN


On Thu, Feb 13, 2025 at 15:21 Jim Ford via groups.io <james.ford=
[email protected]> wrote:

Say, is that Ospho the same as Naval Jelly? ISTR that NJ was some kind
of acid.

Jim Ford
Laguna Hills, California, USA
On Feb 13, 2025, at 11:57?AM, Dave Daniel via groups.io <kc0wjn=
[email protected]> wrote:

?Also, for the rusty metal strap, there is a product named "Ospho" (a
phosphoric acid solution) that changes iron oxide into iron phosphate and
stops the iron oxidation process. One removes the loose rust and applies
Ospho and then, once the reaction is complete, cleans off the item.

DaveD
KC0WJN


On Thu, Feb 13, 2025 at 14:33 Roy J. Tellason, Sr. via groups.io <roy=
[email protected]> wrote:

On Thursday 13 February 2025 12:44:51 pm Greg Muir via groups.io
wrote:
Most of my handle replacements have been with the older HP equipment
such as that found the 200CD oscillator which is a leather type. I have
had good success taking a badly deteriorated handle to the local saddle
shop who specializes in leather work. They fabricate handles that are
exact duplicates of the HP ones and even stain them the right colors.
If you can find a person or company that does this kind of work a
custom
leather handle would look nice on the TM.

Hmm, there being a lot of amish around here that's a distinct
possibility...

I have a 5xx (can't recall the exact number) sitting out in the garage
with the same issue. Someone did send me another of that metal strip
that
runs up the middle of the top of the scope, but it wasn't the right
size
to fit on there, so I passed it along to somebody who could use it.

Gonna have to look around for somebody who works leather.

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet
Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies.
--James
M Dakin














Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

And with the same active ingredient (phosphoric acid) as in most colas. I've used Diet Coke as a rust remover many times. Very effective (and frightening -- but at least my digestive tract is now rust-free).

--Tom

--
Prof. Thomas H. Lee
Allen Ctr., Rm. 205
420 Via Palou Mall
Stanford University
Stanford, CA 94305-4070

On 2/13/2025 12:21 PM, Jim Ford via groups.io wrote:
Say, is that Ospho the same as Naval Jelly? ISTR that NJ was some kind of acid.

Jim Ford
Laguna Hills, California, USA


Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

Say, is that Ospho the same as Naval Jelly? ISTR that NJ was some kind of acid.

Jim Ford
Laguna Hills, California, USA

On Feb 13, 2025, at 11:57?AM, Dave Daniel via groups.io <kc0wjn@...> wrote:

?Also, for the rusty metal strap, there is a product named "Ospho" (a
phosphoric acid solution) that changes iron oxide into iron phosphate and
stops the iron oxidation process. One removes the loose rust and applies
Ospho and then, once the reaction is complete, cleans off the item.

DaveD
KC0WJN


On Thu, Feb 13, 2025 at 14:33 Roy J. Tellason, Sr. via groups.io <roy=
[email protected]> wrote:

On Thursday 13 February 2025 12:44:51 pm Greg Muir via groups.io wrote:
Most of my handle replacements have been with the older HP equipment
such as that found the 200CD oscillator which is a leather type. I have
had good success taking a badly deteriorated handle to the local saddle
shop who specializes in leather work. They fabricate handles that are
exact duplicates of the HP ones and even stain them the right colors.
If you can find a person or company that does this kind of work a custom
leather handle would look nice on the TM.

Hmm, there being a lot of amish around here that's a distinct
possibility...

I have a 5xx (can't recall the exact number) sitting out in the garage
with the same issue. Someone did send me another of that metal strip that
runs up the middle of the top of the scope, but it wasn't the right size
to fit on there, so I passed it along to somebody who could use it.

Gonna have to look around for somebody who works leather.

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies.
--James
M Dakin









Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

Also, for the rusty metal strap, there is a product named "Ospho" (a
phosphoric acid solution) that changes iron oxide into iron phosphate and
stops the iron oxidation process. One removes the loose rust and applies
Ospho and then, once the reaction is complete, cleans off the item.

DaveD
KC0WJN


On Thu, Feb 13, 2025 at 14:33 Roy J. Tellason, Sr. via groups.io <roy=
[email protected]> wrote:

On Thursday 13 February 2025 12:44:51 pm Greg Muir via groups.io wrote:
Most of my handle replacements have been with the older HP equipment
such as that found the 200CD oscillator which is a leather type. I have
had good success taking a badly deteriorated handle to the local saddle
shop who specializes in leather work. They fabricate handles that are
exact duplicates of the HP ones and even stain them the right colors.
If you can find a person or company that does this kind of work a custom
leather handle would look nice on the TM.

Hmm, there being a lot of amish around here that's a distinct
possibility...

I have a 5xx (can't recall the exact number) sitting out in the garage
with the same issue. Someone did send me another of that metal strip that
runs up the middle of the top of the scope, but it wasn't the right size
to fit on there, so I passed it along to somebody who could use it.

Gonna have to look around for somebody who works leather.

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies.
--James
M Dakin






Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

Thanks for the very creative suggestion!

Cheers
Tom
Sent from an iThing; please forgive the typos and brevity

On Feb 13, 2025, at 10:16, greenboxmaven via groups.io <ka2ivy@...> wrote:

¡­ go to a junk store and find a large leather handbag that you can cut into a piece to wrap the metal strap. Roll it smoothly around the strap, tie it with dental floss, and shrink on two layers of shrink tubing. It works well.


Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

On Thursday 13 February 2025 12:44:51 pm Greg Muir via groups.io wrote:
Most of my handle replacements have been with the older HP equipment such as that found the 200CD oscillator which is a leather type. I have had good success taking a badly deteriorated handle to the local saddle shop who specializes in leather work. They fabricate handles that are exact duplicates of the HP ones and even stain them the right colors.
If you can find a person or company that does this kind of work a custom leather handle would look nice on the TM.
Hmm, there being a lot of amish around here that's a distinct possibility...

I have a 5xx (can't recall the exact number) sitting out in the garage with the same issue. Someone did send me another of that metal strip that runs up the middle of the top of the scope, but it wasn't the right size to fit on there, so I passed it along to somebody who could use it.

Gonna have to look around for somebody who works leather.

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin


Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

Is the original leather covering on the metal strap still all there? If so, consider using some blue shrink tubing. Put on one layer, shrink it, slip a second layer over it and shrink it too. If the leather is gone, go to a junk store and find a large leather handbag that you can cut into a piece to wrap the metal strap. Roll it smoothly around the strap, tie it with dental floss, and shrink on two layers of shrink tubing. It works? well.

?? Brenda Gentry, KA2IVY

On 2/13/25 10:01, Jim Ford via groups.io wrote:
Hmmmm¡­ Seems like cold-shrink tape may come to the rescue. Made by Daburn Industries and Available from Digi-Key and maybe Mouser. Put some foam or bubble wrap around the metal handle and then wrap the tape around that. You stretch out the tape until it gets about half its starting width before you wrap, and voila, it fuses to itself. I have fixed everything from coaxial cables to garden hoses to rug shampoo machines with it. Hardest part is getting the tape off the backing. HTH. Jim Ford, Laguna Hills, California, USA
On Feb 12, 2025, at 2:47?PM, John Williams via groups.io <books4you4@...> wrote:

?Hi Benjamin. I personally have not had any success restoring old tektronix handles. However there are a lot of companies who make equipment handles. Ones intended for audio equipment usually will work if you are not going for an authentic restoration. Just google. Audio equipment handles. Here is one I found easily.









Re: Disintegrating Handle on my TM503

 

Most of my handle replacements have been with the older HP equipment such as that found the 200CD oscillator which is a leather type. I have had good success taking a badly deteriorated handle to the local saddle shop who specializes in leather work. They fabricate handles that are exact duplicates of the HP ones and even stain them the right colors.
If you can find a person or company that does this kind of work a custom leather handle would look nice on the TM.

Greg


Re: Alternative calibration pulsers for the Tek 11801 family.

 

Jon,

My post is NOT about testing the rise time of a scope. Its about TDR using Tek sampling scopes.

It is intended for owners of the later versions in the Tek sampling scope family which don't have the 15 ps calibrator. In later models Tek cut corners and only put in a 200 ps pulser. That's a substantial loss of resolution at 5 ps/div. It is an independent review of Leo's new product by a very well equipped and knowledgeable buyer who has the good fortune of having better kit than Leo.

Anyone who has a later member of the family with the 200 ps calibrator now has an alternative for doing TDR using an SD-26. I used my calibrator and a tee on an SD-26 for years before I found a working SD-24. You can see the ringing from the tee, but that's easy to understand. Strictly speaking it should have a 26 GHz splitter/combiner on it instead of a tee to preserve constant impedance. Best one I've got is only 12 GHz.

Scope shots using an 11801 and SD-32 of the new LBE-1322 pulser may be seen here compared directly to the 15 ps pulser in the 11801:



Have Fun!
Reg