Re: Advice needed on equipment cart
I found a hospital crash cart at my local university surplus that I'm going to use
for my LA (16700). It's got 4 inch casters, drawers and could handle 300lbs easy.
Got it for $35.
Paul
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On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 09:02:33AM -0700, Chris Wilkson via Groups.Io wrote: I have an HP VNA stack (8505A, 8503A, 8501A) that I want to put on a cart. The gear is about 130 lbs without cables, manuals, etc. It's also rack width. It's hard to find carts for this big heavy stuff.
I'm looking at a Tek K217/s on ebay, but I can't find any specs for it. Does anyone here have a manual? Or just know what the weight capacity is? (top shelf and total weight) And if it will fit rack sized analyzers?
Any advice on the K217/s or any other cart that would work is much appreciated!
!DSPAM:5bd74515320678265213693!
--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA
Aurora Group, Inc. | Security, Systems & Software
paul@... | Unix & Windows
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Re: Advice needed on equipment cart
@Hakan: That's exactly the info I needed. That's not going to cut it.
@Mark: I used to have a half rack....gave it away years ago. Then got this beast. So yes, that's an option I considered. I need to figure out how many -U's I need (vertical size).
It's hard to find racks around here though. Everything is melamine and plastic casters, or 2 post with tiny casters. Or no wheels at all.
Still looking though...
@Renee: I also considered a utility cart option. I haven't found anything the right size yet. They're all too narrow (14-16") or too wide (36"). I'm hoping to avoid building anything, but I might have to. Do you know the item # of the Harbor Freight cart?
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The "Pink Pearl" eraser was once a part of the kit used
by gold scrappers to gage plating thickness. There is a
direct relationship between rubs with a Pink Pearl eraser
needed to remove the gold plating down to the base metal,
and the thickness of the gold in microinches.
I remember reading this rule when I was a kid, working as
a silver plater.
-Chuck Harris
Phillip Potter wrote:
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Being a retired teacher, might I suggest an "old school" pink eraser? They have no
grit.
Phil
On 10/28/2018 9:12 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
You are going the wrong way. You want an eraser
that has no abrasive. Typing erasers are full of
abrasive.
The white plastic erasers, such as Sanford's Magic
Rub, or Staedtler's Mars-Plastic.
-Chuck Harris
Jeff Urban wrote:
Would a typing eraser work ?
I didn't want to just try anything, who knows it could be silver plated. If a
typing eraser will do the trick I'll find one. Years ago I wouldn't be caught dead
without one. I also cut them with a knife sometimes at an angle so that it has
support, at least going one way. There should be no problem carving it into the
proper shape or this.
Thanks.
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Re: Advice needed on equipment cart
On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 05:02 PM, Chris Wilkson wrote:
I'm looking at a Tek K217/s on ebay, but I can't find any specs for it. Does
anyone here have a manual? Or just know what the weight capacity is?
According to the 1990 catalog it is: Top tray 100lbs Base 100lbs Total 200 lbs /H?kan
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Re: Advice needed on equipment cart
for some of my equipment I have been using a Harbor Freight metal rolling cart. Put plywood 30 degree angle on top, bottom shelf for manuals, pwr supplies etc....currently there is a cart in the coupons for 29.99.....normally 80.....If you want plastic...well they are more
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð
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On 2018-10-29 9:45 a.m., Mark Goldberg wrote: How about a rolling 19" rack? There are lots of them, new and used,
available in many different sizes and configurations. I've even seen rack
mounted shelves to provide a work surface. I don't have specific ones to
suggest.
Regards,
Mark
On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 9:02 AM Chris Wilkson via Groups.Io <cwilkson=
[email protected]> wrote:
I have an HP VNA stack (8505A, 8503A, 8501A) that I want to put on a
cart. The gear is about 130 lbs without cables, manuals, etc. It's also
rack width. It's hard to find carts for this big heavy stuff.
I'm looking at a Tek K217/s on ebay, but I can't find any specs for it.
Does anyone here have a manual? Or just know what the weight capacity is?
(top shelf and total weight) And if it will fit rack sized analyzers?
Any advice on the K217/s or any other cart that would work is much
appreciated!
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Being a retired teacher, might I suggest an "old school" pink eraser?? They have no grit.
Phil
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 10/28/2018 9:12 PM, Chuck Harris wrote: You are going the wrong way. You want an eraser
that has no abrasive. Typing erasers are full of
abrasive.
The white plastic erasers, such as Sanford's Magic
Rub, or Staedtler's Mars-Plastic.
-Chuck Harris
Jeff Urban wrote:
Would a typing eraser work ?
I didn't want to just try anything, who knows it could be silver plated. If a typing eraser will do the trick I'll find one. Years ago I wouldn't be caught dead without one. I also cut them with a knife sometimes at an angle so that it has support, at least going one way. There should be no problem carving it into the proper shape or this.
Thanks.
|
Re: Advice needed on equipment cart
How about a rolling 19" rack? There are lots of them, new and used, available in many different sizes and configurations. I've even seen rack mounted shelves to provide a work surface. I don't have specific ones to suggest. Regards, Mark On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 9:02 AM Chris Wilkson via Groups.Io <cwilkson= [email protected]> wrote: I have an HP VNA stack (8505A, 8503A, 8501A) that I want to put on a
cart. The gear is about 130 lbs without cables, manuals, etc. It's also
rack width. It's hard to find carts for this big heavy stuff.
I'm looking at a Tek K217/s on ebay, but I can't find any specs for it.
Does anyone here have a manual? Or just know what the weight capacity is?
(top shelf and total weight) And if it will fit rack sized analyzers?
Any advice on the K217/s or any other cart that would work is much
appreciated!
|
Advice needed on equipment cart
I have an HP VNA stack (8505A, 8503A, 8501A) that I want to put on a cart. The gear is about 130 lbs without cables, manuals, etc. It's also rack width. It's hard to find carts for this big heavy stuff.
I'm looking at a Tek K217/s on ebay, but I can't find any specs for it. Does anyone here have a manual? Or just know what the weight capacity is? (top shelf and total weight) And if it will fit rack sized analyzers?
Any advice on the K217/s or any other cart that would work is much appreciated!
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Later ....It actually pulls down quite easily....but be very careful...there are two shirt wires towards the end of the CRT....They go to 2 spigots on the vertical
and under the shielded wound up cable. The spigots bend quite reaadily. I did a very tidy job of lengthening(5 inches) the wires enough that with the spaghetti on
them they would still curl enough to not pull the sockets off the spigots. The extra wire should be soldered into the hollow pieces (sockets)that go over the CRT spigots...
None of this is rip tear and bust....be very careful at the outset when pulling the vertical amp board...there are other connections.
I need a low mileage vertical amp board complete with all switches for my Mil 425....can anyone assist there? and that spring metal .......(?)
If anyone has to pull that board and is a bit anxious, I'll give complete detail.....I was anxious...not now....but a life as a purposeful construction worker and manager of sites
makes one ham handed enough that I have to tell myself "take your time, it doesn't matter if it takes an hour. In fact 15 minutes of careful work should be adequate to remove
the vertical section and...taking time to carefully lengthen those wires...say 30 minutes to put it all back again.
My Regards
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-----Original Message----- From: Jack Sent: Monday, October 29, 2018 7:42 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 465B Hi..I also have broken coupler problem....I understand the 'ears' break on the outer shaft. I did what you are thinking about doing...panel etc. and then found there is one screw preventing simple removal of the screen covering the knob-to-shaft joining area.screen (in my case Channel 'A'. A person who strips them for sale advises me, recently, that you take out the entire vertical section...that is both channels... by removing just 3 screws. It's a while since I tried the initial solution and will soon try this one...however obviously the knobs have to come off. I'll try it soon. When I pulled the CRO considerably down to try to get to the hidden screw a part fell out...a curved piece of metal which I suppose one could call 'springy'. Whence I have no idea but I suspect it connects chassis to cover for earthing...Any one who knows please advise...Anyone with one to spare please let me know...I have no idea where I safely put it 3 years ago!! Jack -- Jack
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Gents
Thanks so much for all your clear pointers.
Yes, we all suspect the worst, when a problem appears.
Our diagnosing brain starts whirring away, tunneling through all the circuits, even in our sleep!
Glad to report that my scope is 100% OK - there was nothing wrong with it.
A simple ohm-check between the IEC earth pin and the chassis, confirmed that I did not have to open even a single screw.
The power cable was also OK.
The problem was a loose earth wire in the (Chinese) power strip.
Par for the course.
Menahem
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You are going the wrong way. You want an eraser
that has no abrasive. Typing erasers are full of
abrasive.
The white plastic erasers, such as Sanford's Magic
Rub, or Staedtler's Mars-Plastic.
-Chuck Harris
Jeff Urban wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Would a typing eraser work ?
I didn't want to just try anything, who knows it could be silver plated. If a typing eraser will do the trick I'll find one. Years ago I wouldn't be caught dead without one. I also cut them with a knife sometimes at an angle so that it has support, at least going one way. There should be no problem carving it into the proper shape or this.
Thanks.
|
Transistor Devices Dynaload DLF50-85-500
Does anyone have any experience with a Transistor Devices Dynaload DLF50-85-500 electronic DC load? Is there anything I should be aware of, thanks.
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Hi Jim,
I'm interested in a High Voltage Assembly (152-0552-00) and/or a trigger knob assembly if you have either of those.
Steve
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Hi..I also have broken coupler problem....I understand the 'ears' break on the outer shaft. I did what you are thinking about doing...panel etc. and then found there is one screw preventing simple removal of the screen covering the knob-to-shaft joining area.screen (in my case Channel 'A'. A person who strips them for sale advises me, recently, that you take out the entire vertical section...that is both channels... by removing just 3 screws. It's a while since I tried the initial solution and will soon try this one...however obviously the knobs have to come off. I'll try it soon.
When I pulled the CRO considerably down to try to get to the hidden screw a part fell out...a curved piece of metal which I suppose one could call 'springy'. Whence I have no idea but I suspect it connects chassis to cover for earthing...Any one who knows please advise...Anyone with one to spare please let me know...I have no idea where I safely put it 3 years ago!!
Jack
|
Would a typing eraser work ?
I didn't want to just try anything, who knows it could be silver plated. If a typing eraser will do the trick I'll find one. Years ago I wouldn't be caught dead without one. I also cut them with a knife sometimes at an angle so that it has support, at least going one way. There should be no problem carving it into the proper shape or this.
Thanks.
|
Jeff, Try cleaning the male and female contact surfaces.? I suggest the white vinyl click eraser sticks, no abrasives, and they can de trimmed/shaved easily.Has worked for me.?Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR Political Correctness is a Political Disease. From: Jeff Urban <JURB6006@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2018 1:33 PM Subject: [TekScopes] P6105 Probe Any way to tighten these up where they connect ? The way the thing is made it looks like a job for a machine shop...well not really. I like the probe and it is the 3 meter version. It just is erratic when moved around. Most of the trouble is in the connector shown at; /g/TekScopes/photo/77096/0?p=Name,,,20,1,0,0 Is there a "right" way ? That was a good, _fairly_ expensive probe, like $100 back in the 1970s so it is worth taking care of. I don't want to take to the R D department. research development ? Hell no ! "Real Debauchery". That's what I want to avoid. Any suggestions ? I got ideas but i don't want to do anything "permanent".
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468 still trouble shooting Horizontal jitter
I have cleaned up the power supplies with new caps all around. Still have a horizontal jitter. Its almost unnoticeable during A sweep. Its most noticeable in delayed B starts after delay and inten A, it almost stops when I switch to Norm. I can see the leading and edge and the end of the sweep waveform inching/bouncing up and down like the level is being adjusted rapidly. It also happens in X-Y mode when feeding it an out of phase sine wave most noticeable in 10X mag the lissajous pattern will jerk horizontally. Occasionally when turning the delay time position pot in inten A the highlighted section will move further than what it should and come back on its own to the correct position. By this occurring in X-Y mode can totally eliminate anything to do with sweep? All electrolytic caps have been replaced and any tantalum that was replaced was replaced with a matching tantalum. I dont want to just start removing zeners and stuff , too easy for me to mess things up. Any ideas? Thanks guys.
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Re: Pre-Production PG 503 ?
Interesting to see how they divided it up between two empty spaces on the board.? Looks like there were some resistor values changes too although I need to get out my magnifying glass. Thanks for putting up the picture.
You have two PG503's?
Bob.
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On 10/28/2018 4:04 AM, Egge Siert wrote: Hi Bob,
I have myself two PG503's. One early production (no SN) and one with a SN. Both incorporated your patchboard into the Power Supply Board. I uploaded a picture of it.
Greetings,
Egge Siert
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Any way to tighten these up where they connect ? The way the thing is made it looks like a job for a machine shop...well not really. I like the probe and it is the 3 meter version. It just is erratic when moved around. Most of the trouble is in the connector shown at; /g/TekScopes/photo/77096/0?p=Name,,,20,1,0,0 Is there a "right" way ? That was a good, _fairly_ expensive probe, like $100 back in the 1970s so it is worth taking care of. I don't want to take to the R D department. research development ? Hell no ! "Real Debauchery". That's what I want to avoid. Any suggestions ? I got ideas but i don't want to do anything "permanent".
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Re: Tektronix 067-0625-00 Peak to Peak Detector Battery
The lithium cells have an entirely different seal
structure than do alkaline and nicad/mh cells.
In the NiMH/CD cells, and the alkaline cells, the
positive electrode is part of the seal/gas vent.
The plastic used in the seal is soft and melts well
below soldering temperature.
Because it would be a catastrophe if any moisture
got into a lithium cell (including the moisture in the
air), they have a seal that must never pass anything
in or out, and is quite remote of the exterior
terminals. In the case of consumer grade liION cells
(1650, 1850, ...), there is actually a FET switch and
fuse between the internel cell and the "+" terminal,
put there to protect the cell from conditions that might
cause the cell to detonate.
Lithium cells use plastic in their cell structure,
so heating the whole cell to above 140F can result in
a spectacular display, in the case of the lithium ion
type... not so much for the tadrian primary cells.
From a manufacturing point of view, it would be cheaper,
quicker, and easier to solder the cells. They would
do it for the same reason you want to do it: No desire
to buy/build/maintain an expensive CD welding system.
They don't, and can't, because the cost of making the
cells withstand the soldering operation greatly exceeds
the cost of requiring everyone use a CD welder.
I will again extend my offer. I will gladly weld tabs
on anyone's cell if they send it to me with return
postage. I have the equipment, bought for a government
battery charger research job, but now it mostly sits idle.
One or two cells, is free. If you need something more
extensive, we can talk.
-Chuck Harris
Ancel wrote:
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I have soldered and NOT spot welded on the specialty Tadiran cells to keep the RAM alive in the 2465A....that's since 2013 and 5 years running .....solder with the rust remover flux, applied with a wooden toothpick.
I use a 260 C temperature controlled station and it the 63/37 solder wets almost instantly. The cells were an odd size and were cylindrical. Something like a N cell, but wider diameter. Re-flowed with thin gauge copper to make the connections.
Mounted it with hot glue.
Kester SN63Pb37, type 44, 3.3%, Rosin core, 0.8mm , ANSI J STD 006C is my effective solder.
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zenith5106
Steve_M
Jeff Urban