开云体育

If it really bothers you, you can go through the verification procedure, which, in the worst case, may involve a long toll-free telephone call. Just follow any instructions you're given on the web links.

I've had a couple of Dell refurbs and two of them required reverification.
Because of the proprietary hardware, they're not the best bet for a Linux install.

RL

Hi all

Somebody mentioned on here a 2465 listed on ebay a week ago that appeared
to be at least partially functional.

I scored it and it just arrived, courtesy of Feeble Excuse shipping.

I would urge all group members to NEVER BUY anything from that seller. It
arrived single-boxed with a rather large hole punched in the side of the
box -- on the front side of the scope.

I am sick to see this, and I won't unpack it until tomorrow. There does
not appear to be any cosmetic damage on it, but I am more concerned about
functionality. I may be able to get some knobs from a parts 2445 my
brother has in Huntsville AL, if it's just knobs.

I've already emailed the seller and suggested that he get a different job,
namely working on the back of a garbage truck. I hope that will infuriate
him enough to respond to subsequent inquiries from me, and from ebay if
this unit is less functional than described in the listing.

I guess I should have known better than to bid on it, based on the
atrocious other crap he was offering. But ... an apparently functional
2465 for under $200 delivered? Gotta take a gamble now and then. Let's
see if ebay and Fedex back me up on this.

I still might get lucky ... but this piece was about a benjamin higher than
my usual comfort level for "may be working" test gear.

73 to all

Jim N6OTQ

Bob,

Where is the "dividing line" between good vs. bad resistance readings
when doing simple (resistance) tests like this (on un-powered
transformers)?

I would say, if you use a normal multimeter, that tops out at 20 or maybe 40 megaohm, then you should expect the meter to show an open circuit between windings, and between any winding and the core. If you can measure any leakage with that meter, the transformer is surely in trouble. Unless it's really wet, in that case MAYBE it will recover if dried.

If you suspect a transformer may be leaky, and you have no gigaohm meter, you may want to heat up the transformer (in an oven, or with a hair drier, or by feeding it some well chosen amount of DC), and then test it with a plain multimeter. It's very common for a charred insulation to become much more leaky when hot.

Of course, you can easily make a sensitive leakage detector: Wire up any high voltage DC supply, ideally one that can't deliver more than a milliampere, so it's safe to people, in series with a multimeter set to DC volts. Connect the other end of the multimeter to one transformer winding, the return of the power supply to another transformer winding. That places the leakage resistance of the transformer in series with the 10 megaohm internal resistance of the multimeter. Now if your supply delivers 100V, and the meter reads down to one millivolt, as many do, then you can detect leakage resistances up to one teraohm!!! That should be sufficient, I think...

Even using a 9V battery instead of a high voltage supply, this test can detect 90 gigaohm. Of course, it will only detect resistive leakage. If you have a transformer that flashes over internally at some high voltage, that will go undetected. To make safety acceptance tests, power transformers normally need to be tested at something between 2 and 4 kilovolt.

Note that many multimeters have around 10 megaohm internal resistance on all ranges _except_ the lowest one, on which their internal resistance is extremely high. In that case you may be able to detect several teraohm of leakage resistance, using just a small battery and a cheap multimeter!

Manfred

========================
Visit my hobby homepage!

========================

I am searching for my Keithley Multimeter 5900 Option Cards AC and OHMs
The instrument may be full compatible to the Dana 5900 bec. it ist made by Dana.

Offers are very welcome.

greetings
Martin

With a Dell motherboard and Dell BIOS you can use any Dell branded install disk to re-install or verify the Windows install.? Install disks for the various operating systems are often for sale on eBay or you can borrow one from a friend.? Take note, these disks do not use the license code that is on the sticker of the computer.? They use a generalized license code (called and SLP) and receive Windows Genuine Advantage status based on the Dell logo.
Some details that may illuminate this use.? Dell uses a code buried in the motherboard and? a handshake with the system BIOS to provide?license validity to the installation software.? If this handshake fails (motherboard change out, etc) you must use the code on the sticker.? Otherwise, the software will install without issue and will be labeled legitimate.? Microsoft did this for Dell, HP, and others so Microsoft didn't have to "validate" every factory installation/re-installation.?
? From: "Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [TekScopes]" <TekScopes@...>
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2014 5:41 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Windows (OT)

? Well, this is a Dell and no install or recovery disks were provided, but it does
have the hologram sticker with code on it. Presumably Dell didn't pirate the
installation, and I don't want to risk disabling my system, forcing me to have
to buy something new. That program is meant to catch millions of people in a
similar situation, growing their bottom line. It's not about piracy, it's about
their profit.

On 11/20/2014 12:21 AM, machine guy machineguy59@... [TekScopes] wrote:

While I agree with you in principle, the "Windows Genuine Advantage" only runs
at startup unless it decides you don't have a legit copy. And that is the
rub. Microsoft finds a multitude of reasons for disqualifying an
installation. Then you have to go through the pain of re-qualifying your
install. I happens maybe once every 3 to 5 years but its still a pain.
Re-qualifying usually amounts to putting the install disk in the drive and
entering your valid license code. I resent it but I don't see a lot of
alternatives in todays world. Microsoft has found a way to keep marching your
current system in to obsolete land.
From: "Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [TekScopes]"
<TekScopes@...>
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2014 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Windows (OT)

The first thing it wants to install is the "Windows Genuine Advantage" tool.
This is bullshit. Why do I want software which is always using processing power
and memory to keep checking if I have a legit copy of Windows? Like it changed
to a pirated version overnight or something? I don't want that corporate
crapware on my system. It gives me absolutely no "advantage" whatsoever.

On 11/19/2014 1:18 PM, David DiGiacomo telists@... [TekScopes] wrote:

On Wed, Nov 19, 2014 at 11:07 AM, David DiGiacomo <telists@...> wrote:

Type this in a command window:

reg add HKLM&#92;SYSTEM&#92;WPA&#92;POSReady /v Installed /t REG_DWORD /d 1 /f

Then run Windows Update/Microsoft Update as normal.

Hmm, Windows Update is temporarily (?) broken, at least for some people:

Automatic updates seem to be working though.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Pete..thanks for the tip. I have a screen tent with a picnic bench in it.
I forgot to take the notebook in one night and my problems began, Now that
the weather has turned really cold here in Boston, the tent is down and
stored with the notebook now indoors for the winter.. I'll take your advice
come spring



Thanks again



Ron

Hi Ron,
I put 2 passwords on my laptops, 1 is for BIOS/HD, this prevents a computer from booting to windows and 1 password for windows. Between the two, it defeats 99.99% of unauthorized users. Windows password are easy to beat, but you have to get past the BIOS /HD password first!! LOL

I also put? a small sticker on it that says '2 passwords required' could discourage theft next time. I use public wifi a lot on the road....
'73
Pete

On Thursday, November 20, 2014 06:31:42 you wrote:

On 11/20/2014 06:23 AM, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [TekScopes] wrote:

Peter,

Been using Linux here at work on my workstation and laptop for a good
number of years now. I'm the Unix/Linux sysadmin here at work, and have
a distinct dislike for Windows products. The only machine I have
running Windows anymore is the desktop at home, and the only reason it
still has Windows on it is because of some software I use that won't run
on anything else, even under Wine. I'm not a big fan of VirtualBox,
because it still requires you to load the Windows OS to run Windows
programs. Wine works well for about 95% of all Windows software.

Mark

I've been using Linux on my PCs for over ten years now, I went from Mandrake
to Ubuntu and now run Debian. I have four Linux LAMP servers, one FreeBSD mail
server and three (soon to be one) Windows servers at work I administer.

Every time I get another steaming pile of Microsoft updates I appreciate the
stability of Linux. I only have to reboot a Linux / FreeBSD machine is I get a
kernel or a DBUS update. The Windows machines have to be rebooted after almost
every update. Since most of them are remote, this is not something I enjoy.

I would love to play with GPIB, but I can not figure out how to fit an
interface in a 485, a 454 or a 453.

Mike


--
Mike McGinn KD2CNU
Be happy that brainfarts don't smell.
No electrons were harmed in sending this message, some were inconvenienced.
** Registered Linux User 377849

Well, this is a Dell and no install or recovery disks were provided, but it does have the hologram sticker with code on it. Presumably Dell didn't pirate the installation, and I don't want to risk disabling my system, forcing me to have to buy something new. That program is meant to catch millions of people in a similar situation, growing their bottom line. It's not about piracy, it's about their profit.

On 11/20/2014 06:23 AM, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [TekScopes] wrote:

I recently bought a couple of nice Thinkpads at the MIT flea. They had Win7 on
them, who knows, maybe pirated, but I just used that as a check that the
machines worked and both now have Ubuntu on them. The intent is that I get more
time and practice using Linux for everyday activities. I think that's the best
way to get comfortable with it because if you're a home user who doesn't have
deep pockets I think Linux is much more appropriate.

And the security aspect shouldn't be discounted either.

Next, I'll start working on GPIB with one of those USB-GPIB adapters I have
laying around.

Peter

Peter,

Been using Linux here at work on my workstation and laptop for a good number of years now. I'm the Unix/Linux sysadmin here at work, and have a distinct dislike for Windows products. The only machine I have running Windows anymore is the desktop at home, and the only reason it still has Windows on it is because of some software I use that won't run on anything else, even under Wine. I'm not a big fan of VirtualBox, because it still requires you to load the Windows OS to run Windows programs. Wine works well for about 95% of all Windows software.

Mark

I recently bought a couple of nice Thinkpads at the MIT flea. They had Win7 on them, who knows, maybe pirated, but I just used that as a check that the machines worked and both now have Ubuntu on them. The intent is that I get more time and practice using Linux for everyday activities. I think that's the best way to get comfortable with it because if you're a home user who doesn't have deep pockets I think Linux is much more appropriate.

And the security aspect shouldn't be discounted either.

Next, I'll start working on GPIB with one of those USB-GPIB adapters I have laying around.

Peter

While I agree with you in principle, the "Windows Genuine Advantage" only runs at startup unless it decides you don't have a legit copy.? And that is the rub.? Microsoft finds a multitude of reasons for disqualifying an installation.? Then you have to go through the pain of re-qualifying your install.? I happens maybe once every 3 to 5 years but its?still a pain.? Re-qualifying usually amounts to putting the install disk in the drive and entering your valid license code.? I resent it but I don't see a lot of alternatives in todays world.? Microsoft has found a way to keep marching your current system in to obsolete land.?
? From: "Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [TekScopes]" <TekScopes@...>
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2014 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Windows (OT)

? The first thing it wants to install is the "Windows Genuine Advantage" tool.
This is bullshit. Why do I want software which is always using processing power
and memory to keep checking if I have a legit copy of Windows? Like it changed
to a pirated version overnight or something? I don't want that corporate
crapware on my system. It gives me absolutely no "advantage" whatsoever.

On 11/19/2014 1:18 PM, David DiGiacomo telists@... [TekScopes] wrote:

On Wed, Nov 19, 2014 at 11:07 AM, David DiGiacomo <telists@...> wrote:

Type this in a command window:

reg add HKLM&#92;SYSTEM&#92;WPA&#92;POSReady /v Installed /t REG_DWORD /d 1 /f

Then run Windows Update/Microsoft Update as normal.

Hmm, Windows Update is temporarily (?) broken, at least for some people:



Automatic updates seem to be working though.

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Alan,
What kit is this?
Thanks,
rich!

Peter,
I agree even though I would have used different language. I'm about
ready to dump windows. The only reason that I keep it is because of my
games. My hardware doesn't support windows 8. Because of the programs
that I run, it will cost me about $2500 to upgrade my hardware. How long
would a car manufacturer be in business if they said, oh, by the way we
have come out with some new what ever and your car won't work any more.
A hundred old car works on the existing infrastructure.
Thanks,
rich!

The first thing it wants to install is the "Windows Genuine Advantage" tool. This is bullshit. Why do I want software which is always using processing power and memory to keep checking if I have a legit copy of Windows? Like it changed to a pirated version overnight or something? I don't want that corporate crapware on my system. It gives me absolutely no "advantage" whatsoever.

Reattaching cable to attenuator assembly did not fix it. I'll start checking the horizontal sweep circuit next and the associated power supply voltages next.

When troubleshooting analog sampling systems, I've found that it is most
efficient to start with the timing circuitry. I don't worry about sampling
gate until after I confirm that the timing circuitry is working. The 1S1
combines the timing and sampling circuitry into one plug-in, but they are
still distinct subsystems. If the timing circuitry doesn't put out the
right signal when it gets a test signal on external input, I would stop
there, and figure out what's going on.

-Kurt

On Wed, Nov 19, 2014 at 6:25 PM, Kurt Rosenfeld <kurt.harlem@...>
wrote:

I find that setting the display mode to "man" (manual) mode simplifies
things.

On Wed, Nov 19, 2014 at 5:47 PM, HankC hankc918@... [TekScopes] <
TekScopes@...> wrote:

Sampling scopes have DC offset, which may be a multi-turn or a
coarse/fine control.This could drive the trace way off screen.Does it
behave the same in both plugin slots ?
Since you said you were not familiar with samplers, I'll point out that
the input is 50 ohms.
HankC, Boston
WA1HOS

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On Wed, 19 Nov 2014 19:22:11 +0000, you wrote:

"... adequate for 240 VAC work which is unlikely to produce higher than
+/- 340 volts DC...."

Erm, guys, if these are switched mode supplies on a 240V system, when
the switching transistor switches OFF, peak voltage on the switching
transistor &#92; primary winding can easily reach 500 volts or more! (I know
- I have had to design them and specify the Vds max of the switching
FET... we used to fit 600V Vds max for 230 &#92; 240V....). Think "car
ignition coil" on the primary side of the "transformer"....

A 240V supply might only produce 340VDC on the bulk cap, though....

David Thomas

I meant for connecting to the 340 volt peak supply which is typical on capacitor
input switching power supplies. 120 volt AC input power supplies use a voltage
doubler to get to 340 volts DC. As mentioned earlier, you probably do not want
to float equipment off of any switching node because of large amounts of stray
capacitance.

On Wed, 19 Nov 2014 15:20:51 -0500, you wrote:

On 11/19/2014 2:32 PM, Stefan Trethan stefan_trethan@... [TekScopes]
wrote:

On a flyback supply that is the truth, yes.
Up to 800V Mosfets, are not uncommon.

Apart from the voltage rating, x10 may mean no more than 50V/DIV on
some scopes, making it completely impractical to use an x10 probe for
230V work, depending on the scope.

ST

Has anyone on this list tried the 100X 2KV probes from China?

Thanks,
Bert

I have a red 250 MHz x10 Chinese probe rated to 1.2 kVolts and they are not
kidding about the voltage rating; 2 kVolts will cause it to break down. It does
deliver a 1.4 nanosecond rise and fall time on my 2440 so the 250 MHz rating is
about right. The transient response is pretty good but not adjustable like my
250 MHz x10 Chinese probes.

I find that setting the display mode to "man" (manual) mode simplifies
things.

On Wed, Nov 19, 2014 at 5:47 PM, HankC hankc918@... [TekScopes] <
TekScopes@...> wrote:

Sampling scopes have DC offset, which may be a multi-turn or a coarse/fine
control.This could drive the trace way off screen.Does it behave the same
in both plugin slots ?
Since you said you were not familiar with samplers, I'll point out that
the input is 50 ohms.
HankC, Boston
WA1HOS

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