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We own a 1967 model. Does anyone have an interior photo, or can take one, that shows the starboard, aft, quarter berth shelf attachment point, for the removable backrest pad, which also can function as a weatherboard/leeboard? Maybe a closeup? Our woodwork was taken apart before we bought the boat and we are trying to put it back together now. Also, did the T27 come standard, with a 360 degree all around anchor light, at the top of the mast? We don’t think we have one.

My T27 ADRI-ANNE is now for sale. She's hull 374 built in 1968. She's in the water in Brick, NJ and can be seen on request. I'm going to see about uploading some pics from August and Sept 2021.

I have a Hood 810 Seafurl LD on my boat. This is a new boat to me and the roller furling is missing a couple of parts. I have reached out to Hood to see if I can buy the parts I need but so far they haven't responded. My next step would be to bite the bullet and buy a new roller furling. I'd like to get some recommendations from the forum here as to what you have and how yours has worked for you. If you can recommend a roller furler that is currently in production that would be helpful. Thanks, Paul

I've been eyeing asymmetrical spinnakers for a couple of years. Any opinions on dimensions or what other boat models have similar sails (so I can browse the used market effectively)? I'm a little lost... From a random note I left myself, it seems like the measurements are 33 on the luff and 17 on the foot. I'm finding a lot of used options that are shorter on the leech and longer on the foot. Having limited experience with these sails, I'm not sure what direction to go. Any advice?

Hi Cleaning house and found the book "The Coast of Summer" Sailing New England Waters from Shelter Island to Cape Cod by Anthony Bailey. Published 1994. The book is about his adventures sailing his Tartan 27 on Long Island Sound. If anyone would like this book let me know and I will send it to you. This is a gift. I enjoyed the book and would like to pass it along. Dave Jepsky T27 #427 Many years ago.

Hello, Anyone have a good used mainsail up for sale? Mine has a big potbelly. Boom isn't original (the bodge job on the gooseneck was a give-away) and the foot is now 3/8" boltrope but I can have that changed if the mast sliders are 5/8". Cheers, -scott

Hello, Looking to purchase a first generation in good to very good condition. Prefer East Coast. Thank you, Keating

Possible single points of failure are shore power/charger, fuse, the pump, the float, wiring, switch, and battery. The fuse is about the only thing I haven't had problems with but other people often do. Pumps that have to run often quickly burn out. Floats get stuck open on gunk or wedged on a wire or come adrift and fall over and burn out pumps and run down batteries. Wiring starting to develop resistance takes out fuses. I had two floats, each with their own wiring and pump, one on shore power directly, but I'm getting around to adding a second battery for it. There's a small amount of solar just to tend the first battery since I keep having issues with shore power (given how much Murphy hates me, I should not be sailing). Plan to add a bit larger 50 or 100 watt one for the second battery. All of this is 4200'd down to the bilge floor and (I'm sorry, I'm repeating myself) after fiberglassing over about 20 screw holes in the bilge floor I'm still finding them. I'm trying to do redundant everything because everything is suspect. Heck, I'd do redundant shore power if I could. So far, a shore power cable went bad, the boat's plug is now even more flakey after a late winter storm, and California starts turning off the grid in dry summer storms when we aren't doing rolling blackouts. Clearly I need a shore stand-by power diesel generator with its own cord and charger to backup shore power. All of that is still woefully inadequate given a leak worse than a rapid drip. A lot of people, especially the mobo set, seem to think, oh, my tiny little bilge pump that kicks on every hour is doing a fine job of keeping up with the water coming in, it's fine, then are shocked when the pump burns out after two months of that. This hull #93 came with a leak and a pump that soon gave up. -scott On 0, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote: > We often rewire Auto Off On bilge switches so off and Auto are the > same, eliminating the off function. Also concur that Auto should be one > of the very few (if not the only) thing wired direct to the battery. > I like a separate power supply that goes on and off with the battery > switch for the manual on. > That way when bilge pump runs the battery down and the higher amperage > draw caused by low voltage blows the fuse, and you come down and > discover the problem, start engine or shore power, the manuel side > still has a good fuse now that you have restored the voltage. S I you > can pump the bilge asap. > It seems long winded, but is quite common and provides a redundant path > to get power to the pump. > You could make an argument to have manual and Auto connected to > different banks, but this would require blocking diodes to keep from > back feeding a discharge bank. > > Check you tube for "lessons learned from sinking my boat" > [1]https://youtu.be/xBWvamrLoe4 > Gives some food for thought. Particularly like the thought about a high > and dry battery. > We also have a high water alarm powered by a 9 volt, like a smoke > detector, so if the 12 volt dies, some one might hear the alarm. > -- > Carl Damm > DAMSELv > 1976 #593 > Stuart Fl > > References > > 1. https://youtu.be/xBWvamrLoe4 > > >

Given an Atomic 4 with your T27, what is your setup for throttle and shifter? Mine has a shifter in the starboard wall of the cockpit and a small knob in the same "niche" with the choke knob in the forward wall. Are there not any shifter and throttle levers on the same tree against the cockpit walls? Seems odd as is. Considering replacing both cables given the age and thought they might be combined. Thanks- Eddie