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gooseneck toggle -- standard part or suggest custom fabrication shop?


 

Hello all,

I emailed Rig Rite and a local fabricator and haven't heard back yet.
Don't know if there's a huge long wait, a moderate wait, or I won't
hear from them at all so thought I'd ask. Often unless you contact
places about a million dollar boat, they're too busy and not
interested. So, anyone have any experience with a stainless steel
fabrication shop? Or alternatively does anyone recognize a part
that would fit here? The 0.80" tongue on the boom and the 1.55"
high opening in the car with a 5/16" bolt centered 1/2" out are
critical dimensions.

Idea is to remove the badly machined and badly worn part of the
tongue on the boom and bolt through the good stuff with a good
fit.

Appreciate any thoughts.

Cheers,
-scott
hull #93, west coast Schock built


 

So, it looks like your primary problem is the aluminum ob the boom is failing.? Generally speaking, aluminum fabrication is less expensive in my experience. It may be easier to pull the end out of the boom and take the whole assembly to a aluminum fab shop.??
Do you have? any tuna tower builders or boat builders in your area. The boat builders might know who the good fab shops are. The work looks pretty straight forward. So you could probably mail it if you can't find local support.?
Rig right is a wealth of knowledge and parts but very hard to have a conversation with in recent years.?
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl


 

Also a rigging shop, the whole aluminum goose neck may be standard, and most rigging shops have a good handle on custom fabrication in house or local.
Here we use Florida rigging in Riviera Beach or Mack Sails in Stuart
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl


 

Yeah, I'm up the creek from the San Francisco bay. There's more
marine stuff out here than you can shake a stick at, and also
more boats. Demand outstrips supply. Then up here, marine stuff
competes with oil well drilling. Lots of places. Got one
of the big outfitters on the phone and sent those two pics
over and I'm waiting to hear back which keeps not happening.

Googling "tuna tower", I had to scroll half way down the page
before I think I found what you're talking about. On the
really high-end boats, it's more yachty stuff than fishing
stuff out here usually.

I probably need to drive to Iowa, where I was born, and knock
on shop doors. Asking around, someone is telling me
"A small inverter tig that has frequency control does a great job of
thin aluminum. It also does a pretty good job of brazing, and a
_fantastic_ job of stainless. Welding SS is like smooshing toothpaste
onto a surface." I don't know if that's true or not but I may be
finding out. Experience so far has been limited to AC stick
welding steel with results that are an abomination.

Replacing the track, car, toogle, and boom end (tang? tab? tongue?)
with whole new kit I guess is an option. Reluctant to just downsize
the tongue to fit because the toggle seems undersized and it just
absolutely blows stink all of the time up here. windy.com etc
don't account for the slot effect on the water and are wrong by
about half.

Appreciate the thoughts. Still making calls and still appreciate
leads.

Cheers,
-scott
#93

On 0, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote:
So, it looks like your primary problem is the aluminum ob the boom is
failing. Generally speaking, aluminum fabrication is less expensive in
my experience. It may be easier to pull the end out of the boom and
take the whole assembly to a aluminum fab shop.
Do you have any tuna tower builders or boat builders in your area. The
boat builders might know who the good fab shops are. The work looks
pretty straight forward. So you could probably mail it if you can't
find local support.
Rig right is a wealth of knowledge and parts but very hard to have a
conversation with in recent years.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl