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Tartan 27 for sale in NJ
2
Hi all, we¡¯ve moved and I can¡¯t continue my efforts to restore Moonshine. She¡¯s got a near-new Universal m-18 and redone chain plates, but there are soft spots in the cockpit and the interior is still pretty rough. Asking $3500. Here¡¯s the craiglist post with some photos: https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/d/brick-tartan-27-for-sale/7300759954.html
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>> ?When we hauled our ¡°new to us¡± boat for the first time for winter storage, we noticed this oddity on the shaft. It appears to be the rubber part of the cutlass bearing, working its way out of the bearing. My understanding is these are attached to the metal sleeve and the whole sleeve was inserted into the strut. There is about an inch+ sticking out. Does anyone know how long the bearing is, or how much of the rubber is still inside the boat? I am aware of what would happen if the whole thing came out, so our short term solution is to cut that rubber piece off and attach the shaft zinc as close as possible to the strut to keep it from further escaping. Long term, can we replace the bearing ourselves? Can we pound or pull it out? Is there a set screw buried under bottom paint holding it in? Pictures enclosed. >> >> 2nd question: Our bilge is a toxic waste dump of 50 years worth of old diesel and assorted other gunk. We have the ability to totally contain our bilge outflow. What would be the quickest and easiest cleaner or chemical or method to use to emulsify all the gunk and get it out? The smell of diesel is overwhelming. Our goal is that if we drop a sandwich in the bilge, we can pick it up and keep on eating. >> >> Scott >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPad
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Does anyone have a favorite source for Propeller Zinc's? The one I got in the past is "Zinc Acorn Nut 2-1/8 x 1-1/2" The Marina can get them, but the price is higher than I'd like to pay
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Hi all, I'm selling "Mooneshine," hull #81. Currently on the hard at Beaton & Sons in Brick. N.J. Year: 1964. Complete in good condition. Full set of sails including mains, spinnakers and several hank-on head sails. Repowered with Universal M18 in 2012. Very low hours. New fuel and exhaust systems. Chainplates replaced. New interior cushions from Kinder Inc. New topsides paint. Original roller reefing system. Port-a-potty. Listing it here before circulating the ad more widely. Asking $5,500. Email me at aaron.kuriloff@... or text 917-621-6790.
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All, During this long covid winter my thoughts turn to sailing. So from the standpoint of efficiently is it better to sail with the gearbox in neutral or in gear? Somewhere I heard that it's not good to sail in neutral, as the prop shaft if always turning. I've always sailed in neutral, and am wondering if I'm doing it wrong. I have a two bladed prop. Any guidance is appreciated Steve 78 T27II Hull # 663
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Steering in reverse
14
We bought our Tartan this past summer, and have observed that it is nearly impossible to steer the boat with the tiller when backing out of the slip. I was wondering if this is a common problem with this boat, and if anyone has a solution. Thanks, Howard
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Rigid 31305 available at home depot or Amazon. I use 2. Very handy for other jobs as well. -- Carl Damm DAMSELv 1976 #593 Stuart Fl
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Used sail to fit raised boom -- dimensions
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Dawn is in need of a new mainsail. The previous owner lifted the boom approximately 6 inches to accommodate a dodger, which means I'm in the market for a 30 foot luff. I've been looking at used sails. If going this route, it looks like I might have to compromise between a shorter foot length or shorter luff. You folks have a lot more experience with this boat than we do and I don't pretend to fully understand the implications of changing sail dimension. So, which would you compromise on length, foot or luff?
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How appropriate to be talking about stuffing 2 weeks before Thanksgiving¡oh wait a second¡.not the same type of stuffing!!!!! I am looking for a little help here with my Tartan 27 and the stuffing box and the packing and adjustments. I have my Tartan 27 right out back on my pier so it is right here to monitor and keep an eye on, and so I went out to start her up and run her for a bit and check on the drip that is supposed to be 1-2 drops per minute is more like a steady stream. It is a tight fit for my 250# girth sliding in along the engine and so I want to make sure I get it right when I try and stop or slow this drop. Here is a picture. The drop is coming from right around #4. Is that where it is supposed to drip? What do I want to adjust and which way do I want to adjust them in? I can go take more pictures and video, but I thought labeling this picture might at least start a discussion. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. I am not in risk of sinking as the water isn¡¯t that deep anyway¡in the other picture you can see how she was high and dry just a little bit ago¡ Patrick
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Rudder bearing
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Planning to haul Sleekit out this weekend and thinking about preventive maintenance while i have it in the lift overnight - has anyone installed a rudder post bearing and was it useful? I have a looseness and clunk sound when i tack and it gets stiff when there is a lot of wind. Also, where does the bearing go? Between the shoe and the rudder, at the base of the post above the rudder blade, or at the top of the post? Thanks, David Savitzky "Sleekit" Rhode Island
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EDIT, Chris Ranney, Tartan Customer Service replied in one day to my web contact question...¡°T27 Spreaders are 1¡± OD, 5/8¡± ID. My T27 #314 only has notches at the spreader end for the upper shroud to run through which I then secure with seizing wire. We have the mast from T27 #295 here at the moment, it appears to have a solid plug welded into the end with a groove machined into it for the shroud. I can confirm that the upper shroud is designed to be attached to the inboard chainplate. Lowers go outboard. This arrangement allows for a slightly tighter lead on the genoa sheets.¡± Initial Post for Type 1 hull... To those now on the hard...please help me with spreader dimensions where end cap fits in? Both cap shrouds pulled out in a good wind with new sails. And these upper shrouds were pinned to outer chain plates. I¡¯d read the corrections here, but didn¡¯t look at mine. In Kerr Lake, N Carolina. Learning lots here from many posts. Thanks for your generosity.
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Purchase of 1968 T27 Yawl.
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Had a 1975 T27 and only sold her because we all got laid off at Lucent in Orlando. My 1975 had a stout bridge deck. Will be looking at a 1968 in Daytona Beach. Photo shows no bridge deck. A4 was rebuilt but has sat unused for 10 years. Other than deck core and chainplates - what else should I look for ???
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T27 in Cherryfield Maine needs repair
Update: boat must be taken off trailer and trailer returned. Bost will be available as of August 3rd. Plans changed, for parts or repair. Boat was in water last year. Most likely a candidate for part out Newer yanmAr diesel With transmission 2ym15 (needs head gasket, have part) (1993) less than 1000hrs Includes sails and rigging Soft deck, chain plate replacement in process, centerboard out, on trailer but need trailer empty by aug 25 Boat can be seen on side of rt one in Cherryfield at folklore farm $1000 call with serious offers 2075460085 Michael
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Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues
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?Just purchased a 1967 Tartan 27, hull #270, with two other people who are also on this list. Currently berthed in Tarrytown NY. Previous owner sailed it infrequently and not at all in the past year or two. Boat was stored in the water (Long Island Sound) for at least the past two years. We had the bottom cleaned before we took delivery, but the owner told us he dropped the centerboard once in the past 13 years, but had trouble getting it back up, so he never dropped it again. Told us it sailed fine without it, but our experience differs. We have tried to drop it, but it won¡¯t go down. Perhaps growth fouled in place? Any idea how we might safely get it down and up while the boat is in the water? Failing that, if we put it in a travel lift, how far off the ground does the boat need to be raised? Will there be enough of the board exposed below the boat to attempt to manually pull it down? Looking for opinions. Thanks.
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replacement hatch covers
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Greetings all, I recently purchased T27 #273 and am working on a number of projects including replacing the cover for the stern center and forward hatches. The old ones are functional but unattractive - one is covered over with fiberglass and painted. Would like them to match or come close to matching the teak cockpit seat benches. Having them fabricated gets expensive fast with yard rates for carpentry and I wondered if anyone had an alternative thought. Thanks, Roger Wight June Song, Hull 273 Jacksonville FL
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Mainsail for yawl
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My old main finally blew out on my #226 T27 yawl. Can't afford a new one and have been searching the used lofts. Anyone got a lead?
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We just purchased a T27. We need we needed to replace the fresh water pump, and were told to purchase part #YM-128695-42010 That part has the pump and the alternator bracket mounted behind it. Does anyone know if the pump is available by itself? I have attached 2 photos, one with the new pump (the shiny metal) installed on the old alternator mount, and the second with a the old pump that was removed with the new bracket. We installed the pump yesterday, and had no issues. We ran the motor for 20 minutes while the bilge pumped out, and then started on our 6 hour trip from Huntington LI to City Island, NY. We were 45 minutes along, when the motor slowed down and died. We were able to sail back to our starting point and tried to figure out what was wrong, but struck out. A mechanic will look at the motor later today.
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Hay all. Since i got my mast cap off and can inspect everything. i thought i might replace the runing rigging wire halyards with Dyneema or other quality synthetic line. To do away with the old wire, one has already been replaced by standard size line, but it does not run very freely and i see it wearing excessively due to its larger size in the smaller sheave. so i thought i might replace it with 1/8 Dyneema (tartan book says wire is 1/8?) would be easier. what is everyone's thought on this? i did a search, but only came up with Dyneema for centerboard use.so thought i should ask specifically. Thank you all for your time and attention Cyric
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Removing old mast wires, and mast cap question
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Hay All This is a bit of a 2 part question I have my Mast down, so was checking the wiring, and found the mast had been rewired (YAAAaaaa). But the old wires where still in the mast just cut about 6" in (BOOoooo), and they are in there good, wont budge, wont pull out, and dont want to pull to hard for messing something else up. does anyone know how the original wires where attached, and how to take them lose? The second question is kind of related to the first, i also would like to run a new radio cable to the mast top and was wondering does the cap on the mast top come off? and if so How? Any help anyone may have would be greatly appreciated.
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Amount of Outhaul Travel?
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I¡¯m installing a new outhaul system with a 6:1 purchase internal to the boom. Can anyone offer guesstimates of how much actual travel distance to allow for the outhaul, from a fully flattened sail, to one let all the way out? 6¡±? 12¡±? More? The main is loose-footed and I¡¯ve never had one of those. I¡¯m aware of using a velcro¡¯d strap to secure the clew ring, allowing it to slide along the boom; but how much travel should I allow for? I want to make sure I¡¯ve allowed for ample travel, but at 6:1 the amount of tail could get excessive if I¡¯m allowing way more than is reasonable. Since I am The Lord of Overkill, I¡¯m running that tail thru an exit box, then outside the boom for about 7¡¯ over the cockpit, then back into the boom thru another exit box, where a shock cord system takes it up. In other words, no accumulation of line hanging in my face. Instead, all you see is a 7¡¯ length of (salsa) line outside of and parallel to the boom. To adjust the outhaul, I¡¯ll grab it and pull it aft, and the ¡®tail¡¯ generated by that action will be pulled into the boom by the shock cord system. The ¡®setting¡¯ will lock in place with a clam cleat. Thanks! Warren Stein
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