开云体育

Does anyone have a road worthy trailer for the T27 that they'd be willing to loan/rent in the Virginia area? Thanks- EB

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that the following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /T27 Handbook/T27 Handbook second edition-1.pdf Uploaded By: Caleb Davison <calebjess@...> Cheers, The Groups.io Team

Hello, Just sold my Rozinante and am considering a T27. Does anyone know of one in good condition (sails and engine) that is not a project boat? I can take on some work, but I've done the renovation a couple times already. More interested in the sailing part. There was a nice one, "Faith", in Annapolis over the summer, but timing was of. I assume she has sold. Can't find emails from then. Thanks for the help. Great boats! Eddie Mobjack, VA

Eddie, I'm selling ADRI-ANNE hull 374. She's in NJ. motor and sails in good shape. currently stored in water in Brick, NJ. she's a 1968 Tartan 27 sloop. If interested, i can send some pics Bob Riker Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

Noticed that photos and attachments in messages from old platform do not seem to have made it to the new platform. Am I missing something? -- ? HotFlash

Use to own Lucifer, a Tartan 27 Yawl hull #23 (now the owner of a T3400 - Rockin' Years) I have found in my supplies some ignition parts for an A4 that sill has the OLD STYLE standard ignition. I doubt if there is any interest in this, but I thought I would put it out the before I Deep Six them. I have one each of the following (all Standard (brand) parts): Dist Cap: AL25 Split Points: AL5661X Condenser: AL106 Rotor: AL102 Shipping appears to be 8.95. I would be nice to cover the shipping costs, but finding someone who could use them is foremost. Let me know if interested. BRAD Brad Robertson Erie, PA

Hi Tartan 27' owner or member of the T27Owners group on Yahoo. Groups.io says it has transferred all your ID's, pictures, messages etc over to their website and if you are receiving this email you are probably already registered for our (continued) new group. Groups.io has a different new member vetting scheme than yahoo so I may have to approve all of your first messages (once you are approved and I don't have to do anything). Hopefully this will keep the spammers at bay. Yahoo used to allow you to send an introductory email to a new user who could then say they knew something about boats or the T27, which was a useful feature but I am happy to be rid of yahoo. Please feel free to poke around in groups.io /g/T27Owners where you should already be a member. My best, Caleb Davison T27 #328

Went up to Eden, Md the other day to look at my boat. It needs attention all over, and I'm still planning to save it. I thought the motor area would be my first concern, but when I looked at the mast and step that changed. There appears to have been a wooden mast step which is now gone, rotted. And the bottom of the mast is chewed up a bit, which I believe I can fix with epoxy and tape. Looking for direction on the step. If theres anything already published here or elsewhere I'd gladly read first. My first reaction is that the interior construction may need to be pulled around there. The rest of the interior probably needs to be gutted anyway, so trying to work around it probably isn't practical. Theres much more but let's start there. Thanks in advance. --Rob

Thanks Jeremy. I noticed that article as well and I have already created a T27Owners group at groups.io. There is no data in this group at the moment. /g/T27Owners groups.io has a facility to migrate the data from a yahoo group and I have begun that process as well. It seems this could take up to a week or more. My intention is to keep this group apprized of any progress about the data migration (photos, messages, users etc are supposed to get moved automatically). I'll keep you posted. Caleb D. T27 #328 "Odalisque"

Hi all. If this goes through then things are looking up. I have put through the "scrape from Yahoo" request here at groups.io and we shall see what they are able to gather. My best, Caleb D. T27 #328

According to the following article,"Yahoo Groups Is Winding Down and All Content Will Be Permanently Removed". https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/8xwe9p/yahoo-groups-is-winding-down-and-all-content-will-be-permanently-removed?utm_source=vicefbus Supposedly Oct 28 will be the last day you can post, and by December 14th, they will delete everything. As far as I know, the only other forum for T27 owners is the facebook group, https://www.facebook.com/groups/2451471291745625/ - jeremy

I'm a new owner of a 1970 Tartan 27..(please forgive my early limited knowledge about the boat ). I have her on stands in my yard and noticed after some heavy rain that the port and starboard deck drains didn't work, she had been on the hard for a while so I rightly assumed they were blocked with leaves and/tree detrius and gently reamed them out with some rigging wire. My questions are; on the starboard side, the below the water line through-hull drained off as much water as was on the deck. The port side however, drained what was on the deck and then a dozen gallons or so more of water. I just can't figure out where all that water came from. I couldn't find any other water filled places on the boat where that may have come from. Thoughts? Mike

I'm wondering about a couple things. First would be how to fabricate a new step, what materials, how big, or can I buy something and fit it to the mast and then whatever support underneath I need. I'm pretty well versed in epoxy/glass at this point after my Allied experience(ongoing). Then what height do I need to be at from bottom of cabin top to top of mast step to keep the original dimension. I can adjust from there based on what's left of the mast. I figure I could raise any prospective step by 1/4 inch or more. Looks like I need to tear out the interior in that area. I may just truck the boat to Jacksonville instead of trying to work on it there in Eden. It's on the hard btw. Trying to wrap my head around it. Im going to go back to Jax and finish the holes in the Allied first, put the interior back together. Working now $$ and waiting for a bit cooler weather there.

Hygelig has a Yanmar 2 cyl diesel with a 1" shaft. A prop nut anode was used . Is this common among other T27/2 owners ? Ron S/V Hygelig

Ahoy, I was installing a new cutlass bearing with a home made puller (all-thread, washers, nuts), and my wrench was not long enough to give me enough torque to get the cutlass bearing in all the way. So I decided to tighten it as much as possible and then hit the end of the rod with a hammer. Then I could tightening another 1/2 turn or so. The idea is that because of the tension from the rod, I wouldn't have to hammer as hard. That worked fine until I dislodged the stern tube. I guess I should have just waited and got some longer wrenches? Or maybe it should not have been that hard in the first place? So the question is -- what now? From what I can tell there is a fiberglass tube that has a 3' or so long bronze tube in it, and the cutlass goes into aft end of the bronze tube. The bronze tube is now displaced about 1/4". Though it is still in there pretty tight. I've attached photos of the current situation. So, what now? I am guessing that even if I tapped the bronze tube back into place it would leak or perhaps shift around later. On option would be to hammer it back into place, and then add some fiberglass and epoxy on the inside. But that sound sketchy. Maybe the whole thing needs to be completely removed, cleaned up, and then reinstalled with Sikaflex 291 or 292 or something? Or maybe it only needs a little bit of sealant on the last inch of the tube? I'm trying to get an idea of the scope of the project and then decide if I should do it or get the boatyard to do it. From what I can tell, stern tubes do have to be replaced now and then and are (often) not permanently affixed to the boat. And, perhaps if mine came loose 'this easily' it was time to reseal it anyway? I'd like to pretend that I accidentally discovered some maintenance that needed to be done anyway, though I suspect that is not the case. Worst case, I guess I'll just have to glass over the hole, take out the engine, and get a big sculling oar like the guy on How To Sail Oceans. Thanks! - jeremy

No idea why you are getting a 404 on the google album -- I opened the link in incognito mode and it worked fine. I've uploaded the images here as well, https://imgur.com/a/jUxGcEf I guess my concern with just adding some fiberglass inside the hull is two-fold and stems from not understanding how the stern tube was held in place to start with. 1) If it was originally bonded to the hull along the whole length of the tube -- will bonding it just at the end really be enough? I have one hypothesis that it was originally only bonded on the inside with a bit of fiberglass at the end, so doing it that way again would be fine. Though I have no way to test my hypothesis about how it was originally done. I did try giving the stern tube some good wacks with a rubber mallet from the inside and I was not able to move it back into position. In many respects that is good news. Hopefully that means that once I do get it back into place it won't take much to get it to stay there. Additionally, since there is no wobble or play, I shouldn't have to worry about alignment issues when I add the fiberglass. 2) My second concern is that if I do not have any sealant on the side that is in the water, that water will be able to creep along the outside of the bronze tube and cause trouble. In theory, the fiberglass on the inside of the boat would keep that water from getting into the boat -- but will it cause issues for the bronze tube and fiberglass to have that water between them? Looking closer at the stern tube, it seems the bronze tube is inside another tube, and the outer tube is glassed into the deadwood. So, I guess the question is -- was that bronze tube pressed into the outer tube, or was it bonded to the outer tube. One thought is that perhaps the fit between the bronze stern tube and the outer tube is so tight that water can't creep in. Or perhaps it can, but doesn't matter -- after all the inside of the stern tube is filled with seawater anyway. A different thought is that perhaps during construction there was a large hole that the bronze tube was suspended in so they could fine tune the alignment, and then they filled the gap up with some sort of adhesive sealant. If I somehow managed to break the stern tube free of that adhesive -- then a little fiberglass on the inside might not be enough. Alternatively, perhaps they thought that people would eventually want to replace their stern tubes, and so they made the somewhat removable. I've seen some stern tube replacement documents where they had to cut the stern tube out, http://www.bwi.org/bwicontest/files/2395-sterntube.pdf But, perhaps it is a less aggressive procedure on a T27. So, I guess I am unsure how to fix things because I am unclear how it worked in the first place. - jeremy

Got a 404 not found on the Google album and Yahoo claims to have the photo too but I can never just log in... it's always some kind of a gauntlet. But in general, "On option would be to hammer it back into place, and then add some fiberglass and epoxy on the inside. But that sound sketchy."... IMO, glassing stuff solid is the least sketchy option. Sikaflex ismore designed for being a gasket between parts with different thermal expansion coefficients than to build structure. If you use it as a gasket between parts and there's force or pressure, then something else should be holding the parts together. So IMO just make it a permanent part of hull and do fiberglass layout. Obviously just make sure it's straight and stays straight until the structure starts to form. When I went to top off the diesel (repowered at some point before my tenure), I discovered the injector return line had melted on the exhaust manifold, and that made a small mess. And there's an exhaust leak. Inboards are needy. The sculling oar looks like a really good idea. -scott <T27Owners@...> wrote: