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Re: Companionway hatch
Dear Jack,
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We redid ours a few years ago with 3/8 lexan. The main trick is to make the screw holes 20% bigger than the screws to allow for uneven thermal expansion. Our previous hatch had lots of cracks around most of the holes. We went with tinted to cut down on temp in the v berth in summer. Prepare to use lots of sealant. (Lifecaulk, I think it was) Amazing that the chunk of lexan cost more than our depth sounder! Good luck, Marty Marty Levenson, ba, bcatr. registered art therapist 604.736.1972 ____________________________ On 26-Dec-07, at 10:47 AM, wymanut wrote:
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Companionway hatch
We're refitting our T27-2. The current companionway hatch (presumably
original) is a half-inch thick piece of plastic with wood trim. The plastic is very, very badly crazed. I think it's smoked grey plastic, but possibly just clear and very, very old. Anybody know what the hatches were originally? Or any thoughts on smoked versus clear? Smoked seems better for privacy, but clear would be better for interior light. Also, I'm assuming it's polycarbonate (not acrylic) for strength. I'll check the density: that ought to indicate one or the other. Jack Wyman 1978 T27-2 Hull #667 Seakindly (for now) Manchester, Michigan |
Re: Dodger plans?
Dear Tartan Group,
Happy holidays! We are treating ourselves to a professionally built dodger in the new year. Has anyone out there had one built? Any suggestions / feedback? Photos of Tartans with dodgers, or similar boats? It will be ss welded, lexan windows, and sunbrella. I have seen samples of their work, and they are excellent quality, but I'm unsure of the exact design. Thanks! Marty (Vancouver) "Poseidon" 1967 T-27 |
Re: Epoxy resins . . .
Greg Van Pelt
Thanks Richard; interesting site. I'll try some of his premium no-blush
and penetrating resins. I thought he made an interesting point regarding the greater possible error in 5-1 resins as opposed to 2-1 or 1-1. Good luck with the Tartan - hope you'll post some pictures of the project. |
Re: Epoxy resins . . .
I have used epoxyproducts.com for quite a bit of stuff like penetrating epoxy and some repair...I highly recommend them... prompt service, advice from the owner and no frills reasonable products...
Greers epoxy seems like it's probably comparable but with slightly less choice...? It seems like a basic non blushing epoxy can be easily modified for most uses... I ended up experimenting with different variations of xylene and lacquer thinner to come up with a decent product to coat the deck and hull... seems to have taken care of the crazing problem I was having I also thickened it to fill the ice box opening on the deck and fill all the holes from the deck fittings... not a lot of actual large repair work though.? I also used aluthane with great success for stuff like painting the winch bases, spreaders etc... looks so much better and saves a bundle compared to replacing.. I ended up selling my Oday 22 today so can focus on the Tartan...
Never miss a thing. |
Epoxy resins . . .
Greg Van Pelt
I've seen John Greer's e-bay offerings, and I see there's a link to
his website here. Apparently his shipping an service are efficient. What I'm more interested in knowing is whether anyone has actually used his resin systems extensively, that is, for more than minor repairs? |
Re: core material
bloomjc1
Hello,
My name is John Bloom. I've been sailing number Buckeye (#386) in Oriental, North Carolina and reading this forum for three years now. I have experience with, what I think, is an interesting variation on core repair. I had very wet balsa and some leaks in the port walkway from the chain plates to the aft edge of the cabin. Because I didn't trust myself to do a full re-core (I'm tired of getting in over my head on projects that keep me from sailing.) I tried a solution that exploited one of the properties of Guerrilla glue. As you may know, when this glue is exposed to moisture it foams. The first step was cutting 30 one inch pieces from a 3/16 dowel . I then drilled 30 11/64 holes into the balsa, working from inside, from the chain plates aft until I reached dry wood. The nozzle on the glue container fit snugly into the drilled holes. Beginning at the chain plates again I squeezed a generous amount of glue directly from the container into the first hole and pounded one of my short dowel pieces in to keep the glue from foaming out. My theory was that the expansion of the glue as it foamed inside the deck would fill the entire space between the top and bottom layers of glass. As I worked I often found that before I've could begin filling a hole, glue from the previous injection would be foaming out of it. Very satisfying. The operation took an afternoon for the preparation and injection and a couple of hours for grinding plugs off and repainting the surface. I can't know how complete the injection was but it did cure the leaking and made the deck somewhat stiffer (the deck wasn't terribly soft before the repair). And, most importantly for me, it caused barely a hiccup in my-thus-far-unrealized goal of going sailing 100 times in a year. |
Re: core material
ksmith4312
From above just aft of the starboard stanchion forwarded to about a
foot in front of the cabin. --- In T27Owners@..., gallaher@... wrote: found recommendedsome great sites for the work but no one has suggested or cents arecore material. Balsa, Marine Ply or Nico-Honeycomb. All two welcome. |
Re: core material
daiksan
--- In T27Owners@..., "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@...> wrote:
found some great sites for the work but no one has suggested or recommendedare welcome.I replaced everything along sides of the cabin with 2 staggered layers of 3/16 x 1 1/2" soloid mohogany. It was the best way I could come up with to get underneath the scarf joint tabs from the cabin and deck joint. Its a littleheavier, but I think I'll have enough beer in the bilge to off set it. Also used a little unigrain ply in the fordeck area. Everything was originally 1/2" core. |
Re: core material
are you doing the repair from above or below?
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-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@...>
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Re: core material
Ksmith, ? I just finished recoring my entire deck with balsa. Some of it was 3/4 and most was 1/2. After I got about half way through I was told I should have used foam core but had already bought the balsa. I have plenty of 1/2 left for your job if that is what you need. I doubt I will evey use it. ? After several false starts?I ended up using a battery powered skill saw with a metal cutting blade to make my cuts as I did a panel at a time. You can only mix up so much West System at a time. I'm at 7 gallons and counting. ? Call if you are interested in the 1/2 inch! ? Billy Ray Davis - Scarlett #79 - W803 788 8877 ? ksmith4312 wrote:
Looking for last minute shopping deals? |
core material
ksmith4312
Hi,
Was doing some work and noticed a soft spot on deck. Have determined it is about 2' X 3'. Will be doing some work. I have found some great sites for the work but no one has suggested or recommended core material. Balsa, Marine Ply or Nico-Honeycomb. All two cents are welcome. |
Tartan 27 half models available in time for Christmas
Tartan 27 half models are available now for $350 plus S &H!
Photos provided upon request! My web site at www.angelfire.com/fl4/mft shows many Tartan models that I offer in various sizes and configurations. These are half hulls mounted on hardwood veneer back boards with black edges. Other back boards are available as well. They are very accurate polyurethane molded models from time-tested molds acquired from well established firms that discontinued them after retirement. I also offer miniature Harken hardware items in various sizes to fit out these models to look even more realistic and true to the owner's configuration. We make shadow boxes for trophies which can allow the display of medallions and other memorabilia that have been well received. We also offer models without backboards in quantities of 2 or more for local groups to prepare their own trophies at a reduced price without the backboards. Our sails are unique in the industry. They are formed over molds with thermo-plastic much like high performance sails are now made for real boats. The half hulls with cabins mounted on a hardwood veneer back board - $350 plus S&H. Half hulls with cabin and sails are $450 ¨C Will be shipped in two weeks or less ¨C photos attached. Engraved brass name plates - $10 plus 16 per character S&H depends on mode and Zip Code ¨C Typically under $20 via USPS Priority Mail We have many Tartan models in inventory. They can typically be painted to the owner's colors and shipped within one week. Graphics are provided at costs. We have many of the popular one-design classes in stock. And, we also have power boats like trawlers, Hinckley's and Sea Rays. Laser cut frames for other classes can be provided for those who wish to make their own models. What focused me on Tartans was a lady from NYC who contacted me about a Tartan 34C as a gift. I discovered her friend's boat on the www.tartanowners.com web site. These models are excellent Christmas presents. We can still deliver them in time for two more weeks. So, there is a sense of urgency. Thank you for spreading the word! Sincerely yours, Milton Thrasher 941 966-9179 mthrasher@... wwww.angelfire.com/fl4/mft |
Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118
Matthias Klemm
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJust glass and paint won¡¯t do it. The fiberglass and paint itself is not waterproof. You will need some kind of barriercoat. ?I had the same problem and just ground out the cracks down to the fiberglass and faired with marine filler. Then I barrier coated the underwater portion of the hull. Usually you end up with 4 coats, 3 barrier and 1 primer to receive the bottom paint. So far it¡¯s holding up beautifully. ? Matthias ? From: T27Owners@...
[mailto:T27Owners@...] On Behalf Of gallaher@...
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:08 To: T27Owners@... Subject: Re: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118 ? Thanks for the replies. That's good
information.
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Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118
Thanks for the replies. That's good information.
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I finally braved the dripping goop from the barnacles and got under the keel with a flashlight. It looks like the inside of the trunk is dry, so I'm guessing that the source of the water is between the trunk and the rudder. Does anyone know what's inside there? It sounds hollow to me. Also, I removed the some of the paint from the hull below the waterline and the glass seems to have lots of hairline cracks. Its unclear how deep they go. I was told that, all things considered, a couple of layers of glass and a proper paint job would be an appropriate repair given the age of the hull. Can anyone comment on the status of their mid 1960's hulls. Any information about your experiences dealing with hull issues would be much appreciated. -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bill Davis <backstay13@...> Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now. |
Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI have hull #71 and no lead pigs.? I think the PO (prev. owner) probably was trying to increase the ballast weight.? The boat sails fine without the CB.? My CB fell out during routine maintenance last year.? It was a hack job replacement anyhow.? Mine is a 1964 and yours is probably the same year.? If you need info feel free to email me directly? or contact me through the t-27.com site. ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand |
Re: Folding Prop
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýKerry,
?
I posted the prop for sale.? I owned T27 249
for years and sold her last year.? In 2005, I put a Variprop two blade
feathering prop on her.? Fit beautifully in the aperature.? Totally
changed the performance under both sail and power.? I kept the prop when I
sold the boat, but I cant use it.? It has only one season of use.?
New, she goes for about $1900.? The tech at Variprop suggested I sell it
for $1100.
?
It is 12 inches in diameter, set for an 8 inch
pitch.? Pitch can be adjusted in both forward and reverse.? It fits a
one inch shaft.?
?
Interested?
Chris
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Folding Prop
Hi, I saw a recent email regarding a folding prop for approximately
$1,000. I somehow lost it, I don't know if I deleted it or misfiled it, but I lost it. It was from the Tartan 27 site. If anybody out there has a copy of it, kindy forward it to me @ manager@... (Kerry Wilkens). I would really appreciate it. |
Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118
Guys, ? I am restoring hull number 79 (1963-64 I believe) and while she hasn't been in the water in many years I still had weeping for at least 6 months after I put her in my barn. She had been outside and had all the classic deck issues we all would expect. Even after a year inside she still had loads of wet deck balsa which I am sure had something to do with the weeping. I should complete that part of the project this weekend! Chainplates are next! ? I inherited 4 - 50 odd pound lead pigs in the bilge and she does have a centerboard. My understanding is she came from Mackinaw Island via WV where I found her. My question is having never actually sailed on a T-27, are they?so tender that I need to keep the lead? I'll be sailing on Lake Murray in SC and we seldon see winds of 15 knots or more. ? Advice from old salts is always welcome! ? Billy Ray
Davis Jr - Scarlett #79 calebjess@... wrote:
Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. |
Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118
Maury, I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum with limited success.? Good luck to you in this pursuit. A few things struck me about your post:? "centerboard is MIA..., my bilge is full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting enough drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel).? Perhaps your centerboard is MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left empty.? The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners attempt to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing (T27 centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low).? You will enjoy sailing this boat much better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to restore this valuable control features when you can. As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27 shows modest signs of this not far from where you indicated.? Your bilge should be dry for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass (GRP, FRP) hull. As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not replaced my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you.? The only documentation on the rigging I have is: Standing Rigging
?
Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
Forestay?------------? ?3/16"
Backstay??------------ 3/16"
Lifelines???-------------??9/32"
including vinyl 3/16" wire
Genoa Tracks?--------- 1"
Mainsheet traveler??----?7/8???
many have up graded to 1"
Spreaders?-------------?7? degrees
above Horizontal
Which comes from here:? http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UNI7R523vw0Cb9oHfwO49xLQeRi7usitLpsMfx6_Qcd95Eq0N6vDUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm Good luck with #118. Caleb ? From: maurygallaher
To: T27Owners@... Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118 Hello, everyone! Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free ! |