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Re: Companionway hatch

 

Dear Jack,

We redid ours a few years ago with 3/8 lexan. The main trick is to make the screw holes 20% bigger than the screws to allow for uneven thermal expansion. Our previous hatch had lots of cracks around most of the holes.

We went with tinted to cut down on temp in the v berth in summer.

Prepare to use lots of sealant. (Lifecaulk, I think it was)

Amazing that the chunk of lexan cost more than our depth sounder!

Good luck,
Marty

Marty Levenson, ba, bcatr.
registered art therapist

604.736.1972
____________________________




On 26-Dec-07, at 10:47 AM, wymanut wrote:

We're refitting our T27-2. The current companionway hatch (presumably
original) is a half-inch thick piece of plastic with wood trim. The
plastic is very, very badly crazed. I think it's smoked grey plastic,
but possibly just clear and very, very old. Anybody know what the
hatches were originally? Or any thoughts on smoked versus clear?
Smoked seems better for privacy, but clear would be better for
interior light. Also, I'm assuming it's polycarbonate (not acrylic)
for strength. I'll check the density: that ought to indicate one or
the other.

Jack Wyman
1978 T27-2
Hull #667
Seakindly (for now)
Manchester, Michigan



Companionway hatch

 

We're refitting our T27-2. The current companionway hatch (presumably
original) is a half-inch thick piece of plastic with wood trim. The
plastic is very, very badly crazed. I think it's smoked grey plastic,
but possibly just clear and very, very old. Anybody know what the
hatches were originally? Or any thoughts on smoked versus clear?
Smoked seems better for privacy, but clear would be better for
interior light. Also, I'm assuming it's polycarbonate (not acrylic)
for strength. I'll check the density: that ought to indicate one or
the other.

Jack Wyman
1978 T27-2
Hull #667
Seakindly (for now)
Manchester, Michigan


Re: Dodger plans?

 

Dear Tartan Group,

Happy holidays!

We are treating ourselves to a professionally built dodger in the new year. Has anyone out there had one built? Any suggestions / feedback? Photos of Tartans with dodgers, or similar boats?

It will be ss welded, lexan windows, and sunbrella. I have seen samples of their work, and they are excellent quality, but I'm unsure of the exact design.

Thanks!
Marty (Vancouver)
"Poseidon" 1967 T-27


Re: Epoxy resins . . .

Greg Van Pelt
 

Thanks Richard; interesting site. I'll try some of his premium no-blush
and penetrating resins.

I thought he made an interesting point regarding the greater possible
error in 5-1 resins as opposed to 2-1 or 1-1.

Good luck with the Tartan - hope you'll post some pictures of the
project.


Re: Epoxy resins . . .

 

I have used epoxyproducts.com for quite a bit of stuff like penetrating epoxy and some repair...I highly recommend them... prompt service, advice from the owner and no frills reasonable products...
Greers epoxy seems like it's probably comparable but with slightly less choice...? It seems like a basic non blushing epoxy can be easily modified for most uses... I ended up experimenting with different variations of xylene and lacquer thinner to come up with a decent product to coat the deck and hull... seems to have taken care of the crazing problem I was having I also thickened it to fill the ice box opening on the deck and fill all the holes from the deck fittings... not a lot of actual large repair work though.? I also used aluthane with great success for stuff like painting the winch bases, spreaders etc... looks so much better and saves a bundle compared to replacing..
I ended up selling my Oday 22 today so can focus on the Tartan...


Never miss a thing.


Epoxy resins . . .

Greg Van Pelt
 

I've seen John Greer's e-bay offerings, and I see there's a link to
his website here. Apparently his shipping an service are efficient.

What I'm more interested in knowing is whether anyone has actually
used his resin systems extensively, that is, for more than minor repairs?


Re: core material

bloomjc1
 

Hello,

My name is John Bloom. I've been sailing number Buckeye (#386) in
Oriental, North Carolina and reading this forum for three years now. I
have experience with, what I think, is an interesting variation on
core repair.

I had very wet balsa and some leaks in the port walkway from the chain
plates to the aft edge of the cabin. Because I didn't trust myself to
do a full re-core (I'm tired of getting in over my head on projects
that keep me from sailing.) I tried a solution that exploited one of
the properties of Guerrilla glue. As you may know, when this glue is
exposed to moisture it foams.

The first step was cutting 30 one inch pieces from a 3/16 dowel . I
then drilled 30 11/64 holes into the balsa, working from inside, from
the chain plates aft until I reached dry wood. The nozzle on the glue
container fit snugly into the drilled holes. Beginning at the chain
plates again I squeezed a generous amount of glue directly from the
container into the first hole and pounded one of my short dowel pieces
in to keep the glue from foaming out. My theory was that the
expansion of the glue as it foamed inside the deck would fill the
entire space between the top and bottom layers of glass. As I worked
I often found that before I've could begin filling a hole, glue from
the previous injection would be foaming out of it. Very satisfying.

The operation took an afternoon for the preparation and injection and
a couple of hours for grinding plugs off and repainting the surface. I
can't know how complete the injection was but it did cure the leaking
and made the deck somewhat stiffer (the deck wasn't terribly soft
before the repair). And, most importantly for me, it caused barely a
hiccup in my-thus-far-unrealized goal of going sailing 100 times in a
year.


Re: core material

ksmith4312
 

From above just aft of the starboard stanchion forwarded to about a
foot in front of the cabin. --- In T27Owners@...,
gallaher@... wrote:

are you doing the repair from above or below?

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@...>

Hi,

Was doing some work and noticed a soft spot on deck. Have
determined it is about 2' X 3'. Will be doing some work. I have
found
some great sites for the work but no one has suggested or
recommended
core material. Balsa, Marine Ply or Nico-Honeycomb. All two
cents are
welcome.




Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: core material

daiksan
 

--- In T27Owners@..., "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@...> wrote:

Hi,

Was doing some work and noticed a soft spot on deck. Have
determined it is about 2' X 3'. Will be doing some work. I have
found
some great sites for the work but no one has suggested or recommended
core material. Balsa, Marine Ply or Nico-Honeycomb. All two cents
are
welcome.
I replaced everything along sides of the cabin with 2 staggered
layers of 3/16 x 1 1/2" soloid mohogany. It was the best way I could
come up with to get underneath the scarf joint tabs from the cabin and
deck joint. Its a littleheavier, but I think I'll have enough beer in
the bilge to off set it. Also used a little unigrain ply in the fordeck
area. Everything was originally 1/2" core.


Re: core material

 

are you doing the repair from above or below?

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@...>

Hi,

Was doing some work and noticed a soft spot on deck. Have
determined it is about 2' X 3'. Will be doing some work. I have found
some great sites for the work but no one has suggested or recommended
core material. Balsa, Marine Ply or Nico-Honeycomb. All two cents are
welcome.




Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: core material

 

Ksmith,
?
I just finished recoring my entire deck with balsa. Some of it was 3/4 and most was 1/2. After I got about half way through I was told I should have used foam core but had already bought the balsa. I have plenty of 1/2 left for your job if that is what you need. I doubt I will evey use it.
?
After several false starts?I ended up using a battery powered skill saw with a metal cutting blade to make my cuts as I did a panel at a time. You can only mix up so much West System at a time. I'm at 7 gallons and counting.
?
Call if you are interested in the 1/2 inch!
?
Billy Ray Davis - Scarlett #79 - W803 788 8877
?


ksmith4312 wrote:
Hi,

Was doing some work and noticed a soft spot on deck. Have
determined it is about 2' X 3'. Will be doing some work. I have found
some great sites for the work but no one has suggested or recommended
core material. Balsa, Marine Ply or Nico-Honeycomb. All two cents are
welcome.



Looking for last minute shopping deals?


core material

ksmith4312
 

Hi,

Was doing some work and noticed a soft spot on deck. Have
determined it is about 2' X 3'. Will be doing some work. I have found
some great sites for the work but no one has suggested or recommended
core material. Balsa, Marine Ply or Nico-Honeycomb. All two cents are
welcome.


Tartan 27 half models available in time for Christmas

 

Tartan 27 half models are available now for $350 plus S &H!
Photos provided upon request!

My web site at www.angelfire.com/fl4/mft shows many Tartan models
that I offer in various sizes and configurations. These are half
hulls mounted on hardwood veneer back boards with black edges.
Other back boards are available as well.

They are very accurate polyurethane molded models from time-tested
molds acquired from well established firms that discontinued them
after retirement.

I also offer miniature Harken hardware items in various sizes to fit
out these models to look even more realistic and true to the owner's
configuration.

We make shadow boxes for trophies which can allow the display of
medallions and other memorabilia that have been well received.

We also offer models without backboards in quantities of 2 or more
for local groups to prepare their own trophies at a reduced price
without the backboards.

Our sails are unique in the industry. They are formed over molds
with thermo-plastic much like high performance sails are now made
for real boats.

The half hulls with cabins mounted on a hardwood veneer back board -
$350 plus S&H.

Half hulls with cabin and sails are $450 ¨C Will be shipped in two
weeks or less ¨C photos attached.

Engraved brass name plates - $10 plus 16 per character

S&H depends on mode and Zip Code ¨C Typically under $20 via USPS
Priority Mail

We have many Tartan models in inventory. They can typically be
painted to the owner's colors and shipped within one week. Graphics
are provided at costs.

We have many of the popular one-design classes in stock. And, we
also have power boats like trawlers, Hinckley's and Sea Rays. Laser
cut frames for other classes can be provided for those who wish to
make their own models.

What focused me on Tartans was a lady from NYC who contacted me
about a Tartan 34C as a gift. I discovered her friend's boat on the
www.tartanowners.com web site.

These models are excellent Christmas presents. We can still deliver
them in time for two more weeks.

So, there is a sense of urgency.

Thank you for spreading the word!

Sincerely yours,


Milton Thrasher
941 966-9179
mthrasher@...
wwww.angelfire.com/fl4/mft


Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

Matthias Klemm
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Just glass and paint won¡¯t do it. The fiberglass and paint itself is not waterproof. You will need some kind of barriercoat. ?I had the same problem and just ground out the cracks down to the fiberglass and faired with marine filler. Then I barrier coated the underwater portion of the hull. Usually you end up with 4 coats, 3 barrier and 1 primer to receive the bottom paint. So far it¡¯s holding up beautifully.

?

Matthias

?

From: T27Owners@... [mailto:T27Owners@...] On Behalf Of gallaher@...
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:08
To: T27Owners@...
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

?

Thanks for the replies. That's good information.

I finally braved the dripping goop from the barnacles and got under the keel with a flashlight. It looks like the inside of the trunk is dry, so I'm guessing that the source of the water is between the trunk and the rudder. Does anyone know what's inside there? It sounds hollow to me.

Also, I removed the some of the paint from the hull below the waterline and the glass seems to have lots of hairline cracks. Its unclear how deep they go. I was told that, all things considered, a couple of layers of glass and a proper paint job would be an appropriate repair given the age of the hull.

Can anyone comment on the status of their mid 1960's hulls. Any information about your experiences dealing with hull issues would be much appreciated.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bill Davis <backstay13@...>
>
> Guys,
>
> I am restoring hull number 79 (1963-64 I believe) and while she hasn't been in
> the water in many years I still had weeping for at least 6 months after I put
> her in my barn. She had been outside and had all the classic deck issues we all
> would expect. Even after a year inside she still had loads of wet deck balsa
> which I am sure had something to do with the weeping. I should complete that
> part of the project this weekend! Chainplates are next!
>
> I inherited 4 - 50 odd pound lead pigs in the bilge and she does have a
> centerboard. My understanding is she came from Mackinaw Island via WV where I
> found her. My question is having never actually sailed on a T-27, are they so
> tender that I need to keep the lead? I'll be sailing on Lake Murray in SC and we
> seldon see winds of 15 knots or more.
>
> Advice from old salts is always welcome!
>
> Billy Ray Davis Jr - Scarlett #79
>
> calebjess@... wrote:
> Maury,
> I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum with
> limited success. Good luck to you in this pursuit.
>
> A few things struck me about your post: "centerboard is MIA..., my bilge is
> full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting enough
> drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel). Perhaps your centerboard is
> MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left
> empty. The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners attempt
> to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing (T27
> centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low). You will enjoy sailing this boat much
> better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to restore
> this valuable control features when you can.
>
> As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27 shows
> modest signs of this not far from where you indicated. Your bilge should be dry
> for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass (GRP,
> FRP) hull.
>
> As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not replaced
> my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you. The only
> documentation on the rigging I have is: Standing Rigging
> Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
> Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
> Forestay ------------ 3/16"
> Backstay ------------ 3/16"
> Lifelines ------------- 9/32" including vinyl 3/16" wire
> Genoa Tracks --------- 1"
> Mainsheet traveler ---- 7/8 many have up graded to 1"
> Spreaders ------------- 7 degrees above Horizontal
> Which comes from here:
>
> DUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm
>
>
>
> Good luck with #118.
> Caleb
>
>
>
> From: maurygallaher <gallaher@...>
> To: T27Owners@...
> Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm
> Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118
>
>
> Hello, everyone!
>
> Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
> like the waybackmachine or other archives?
>
> I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
> currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
> outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.
>
> After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
> (about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
> so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
> for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
> enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
> bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
> dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
> looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
> general.
>
> Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
> had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
> this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
> of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
> ear.
>
> Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.


Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

 

Thanks for the replies. That's good information.

I finally braved the dripping goop from the barnacles and got under the keel with a flashlight. It looks like the inside of the trunk is dry, so I'm guessing that the source of the water is between the trunk and the rudder. Does anyone know what's inside there? It sounds hollow to me.

Also, I removed the some of the paint from the hull below the waterline and the glass seems to have lots of hairline cracks. Its unclear how deep they go. I was told that, all things considered, a couple of layers of glass and a proper paint job would be an appropriate repair given the age of the hull.

Can anyone comment on the status of their mid 1960's hulls. Any information about your experiences dealing with hull issues would be much appreciated.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bill Davis <backstay13@...>

Guys,

I am restoring hull number 79 (1963-64 I believe) and while she hasn't been in
the water in many years I still had weeping for at least 6 months after I put
her in my barn. She had been outside and had all the classic deck issues we all
would expect. Even after a year inside she still had loads of wet deck balsa
which I am sure had something to do with the weeping. I should complete that
part of the project this weekend! Chainplates are next!

I inherited 4 - 50 odd pound lead pigs in the bilge and she does have a
centerboard. My understanding is she came from Mackinaw Island via WV where I
found her. My question is having never actually sailed on a T-27, are they so
tender that I need to keep the lead? I'll be sailing on Lake Murray in SC and we
seldon see winds of 15 knots or more.

Advice from old salts is always welcome!

Billy Ray Davis Jr - Scarlett #79

calebjess@... wrote:
Maury,
I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum with
limited success. Good luck to you in this pursuit.

A few things struck me about your post: "centerboard is MIA..., my bilge is
full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting enough
drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel). Perhaps your centerboard is
MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left
empty. The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners attempt
to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing (T27
centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low). You will enjoy sailing this boat much
better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to restore
this valuable control features when you can.

As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27 shows
modest signs of this not far from where you indicated. Your bilge should be dry
for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass (GRP,
FRP) hull.

As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not replaced
my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you. The only
documentation on the rigging I have is: Standing Rigging
Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
Forestay ------------ 3/16"
Backstay ------------ 3/16"
Lifelines ------------- 9/32" including vinyl 3/16" wire
Genoa Tracks --------- 1"
Mainsheet traveler ---- 7/8 many have up graded to 1"
Spreaders ------------- 7 degrees above Horizontal
Which comes from here:

DUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm



Good luck with #118.
Caleb



From: maurygallaher <gallaher@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118


Hello, everyone!

Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
like the waybackmachine or other archives?

I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.

After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
(about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
general.

Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
ear.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.




Yahoo! Groups Links



---------------------------------
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!






---------------------------------
Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.


Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I have hull #71 and no lead pigs.? I think the PO (prev. owner) probably was trying to increase the ballast weight.? The boat sails fine without the CB.? My CB fell out during routine maintenance last year.? It was a hack job replacement anyhow.? Mine is a 1964 and yours is probably the same year.?

If you need info feel free to email me directly? or contact me through the t-27.com site.

?

Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand


Re: Folding Prop

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Kerry,
?
I posted the prop for sale.? I owned T27 249 for years and sold her last year.? In 2005, I put a Variprop two blade feathering prop on her.? Fit beautifully in the aperature.? Totally changed the performance under both sail and power.? I kept the prop when I sold the boat, but I cant use it.? It has only one season of use.? New, she goes for about $1900.? The tech at Variprop suggested I sell it for $1100.
?
It is 12 inches in diameter, set for an 8 inch pitch.? Pitch can be adjusted in both forward and reverse.? It fits a one inch shaft.?
?
Interested?

Chris

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 10:24 AM
Subject: [T27Owners] Folding Prop

Hi, I saw a recent email regarding a folding prop for approximately
$1,000. I somehow lost it, I don't know if I deleted it or misfiled
it, but I lost it. It was from the Tartan 27 site. If anybody out
there has a copy of it, kindy forward it to me @
manager@jeanscanvas.com (Kerry Wilkens). I would really appreciate it.


Folding Prop

 

Hi, I saw a recent email regarding a folding prop for approximately
$1,000. I somehow lost it, I don't know if I deleted it or misfiled
it, but I lost it. It was from the Tartan 27 site. If anybody out
there has a copy of it, kindy forward it to me @
manager@... (Kerry Wilkens). I would really appreciate it.


Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

 

Guys,
?
I am restoring hull number 79 (1963-64 I believe) and while she hasn't been in the water in many years I still had weeping for at least 6 months after I put her in my barn. She had been outside and had all the classic deck issues we all would expect. Even after a year inside she still had loads of wet deck balsa which I am sure had something to do with the weeping. I should complete that part of the project this weekend! Chainplates are next!
?
I inherited 4 - 50 odd pound lead pigs in the bilge and she does have a centerboard. My understanding is she came from Mackinaw Island via WV where I found her. My question is having never actually sailed on a T-27, are they?so tender that I need to keep the lead? I'll be sailing on Lake Murray in SC and we seldon see winds of 15 knots or more.
?
Advice from old salts is always welcome!
?
Billy Ray Davis Jr - Scarlett #79

calebjess@... wrote:
Maury,
I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum with limited success.? Good luck to you in this pursuit.

A few things struck me about your post:? "
centerboard is MIA..., my bilge is full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting enough drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel).? Perhaps your centerboard is MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left empty.? The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners attempt to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing (T27 centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low).? You will enjoy sailing this boat much better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to restore this valuable control features when you can.

As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27 shows modest signs of this not far from where you indicated.? Your bilge should be dry for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass (GRP, FRP) hull.

As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not replaced my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you.? The only documentation on the rigging I have is:
Standing Rigging
?
Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
Forestay?------------? ?3/16"
Backstay??------------ 3/16"
Lifelines???-------------??9/32" including vinyl 3/16" wire
Genoa Tracks?--------- 1"
Mainsheet traveler??----?7/8??? many have up graded to 1"
Spreaders?-------------?7? degrees above Horizontal
Which comes from here:? http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UNI7R523vw0Cb9oHfwO49xLQeRi7usitLpsMfx6_Qcd95Eq0N6vDUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm


Good luck with #118.
Caleb

?
From: maurygallaher net>
To: T27Owners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

Hello, everyone!

Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
like the waybackmachine or other archives?

I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.

After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
(about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
general.

Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
ear.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.




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Re: New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

 

Maury,
I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum with limited success.? Good luck to you in this pursuit.

A few things struck me about your post:? "
centerboard is MIA..., my bilge is full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting enough drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel).? Perhaps your centerboard is MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left empty.? The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners attempt to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing (T27 centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low).? You will enjoy sailing this boat much better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to restore this valuable control features when you can.

As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27 shows modest signs of this not far from where you indicated.? Your bilge should be dry for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass (GRP, FRP) hull.

As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not replaced my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you.? The only documentation on the rigging I have is:
Standing Rigging
?
Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
Forestay?------------? ?3/16"
Backstay??------------ 3/16"
Lifelines???-------------??9/32" including vinyl 3/16" wire
Genoa Tracks?--------- 1"
Mainsheet traveler??----?7/8??? many have up graded to 1"
Spreaders?-------------?7? degrees above Horizontal
Which comes from here:? http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UNI7R523vw0Cb9oHfwO49xLQeRi7usitLpsMfx6_Qcd95Eq0N6vDUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm


Good luck with #118.
Caleb

?

From: maurygallaher
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

Hello, everyone!

Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
like the waybackmachine or other archives?

I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.

After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
(about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
general.

Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
ear.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.




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