Just glass and paint won¡¯t do it. The fiberglass and paint
itself is not waterproof. You will need some kind of barriercoat. ?I had
the same problem and just ground out the cracks down to the fiberglass and faired
with marine filler. Then I barrier coated the underwater portion of the hull.
Usually you end up with 4 coats, 3 barrier and 1 primer to receive the bottom
paint. So far it¡¯s holding up beautifully.
From: T27Owners@...
[mailto:T27Owners@...] On Behalf Of gallaher@... Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:08 To: T27Owners@... Subject: Re: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull
118
?
Thanks for the replies. That's good
information.
I finally braved the dripping goop from the barnacles and got under the keel
with a flashlight. It looks like the inside of the trunk is dry, so I'm
guessing that the source of the water is between the trunk and the rudder. Does
anyone know what's inside there? It sounds hollow to me.
Also, I removed the some of the paint from the hull below the waterline and the
glass seems to have lots of hairline cracks. Its unclear how deep they go. I
was told that, all things considered, a couple of layers of glass and a proper
paint job would be an appropriate repair given the age of the hull.
Can anyone comment on the status of their mid 1960's hulls. Any information
about your experiences dealing with hull issues would be much appreciated.
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bill Davis <backstay13@...>
>
> Guys,
>
> I am restoring hull number 79 (1963-64 I believe) and while she hasn't
been in
> the water in many years I still had weeping for at least 6 months after I
put
> her in my barn. She had been outside and had all the classic deck issues
we all
> would expect. Even after a year inside she still had loads of wet deck
balsa
> which I am sure had something to do with the weeping. I should complete
that
> part of the project this weekend! Chainplates are next!
>
> I inherited 4 - 50 odd pound lead pigs in the bilge and she does have a
> centerboard. My understanding is she came from Mackinaw Island via WV
where I
> found her. My question is having never actually sailed on a T-27, are they
so
> tender that I need to keep the lead? I'll be sailing on Lake Murray in SC
and we
> seldon see winds of 15 knots or more.
>
> Advice from old salts is always welcome!
>
> Billy Ray Davis Jr - Scarlett #79
>
> calebjess@... wrote:
> Maury,
> I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum
with
> limited success. Good luck to you in this pursuit.
>
> A few things struck me about your post: "centerboard is MIA..., my
bilge is
> full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting
enough
> drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel). Perhaps your
centerboard is
> MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left
> empty. The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners
attempt
> to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing
(T27
> centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low). You will enjoy sailing this boat
much
> better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to
restore
> this valuable control features when you can.
>
> As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27
shows
> modest signs of this not far from where you indicated. Your bilge should
be dry
> for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass
(GRP,
> FRP) hull.
>
> As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not
replaced
> my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you. The only
> documentation on the rigging I have is: Standing Rigging
> Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
> Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
> Forestay ------------ 3/16"
> Backstay ------------ 3/16"
> Lifelines ------------- 9/32" including vinyl 3/16" wire
> Genoa Tracks --------- 1"
> Mainsheet traveler ---- 7/8 many have up graded to 1"
> Spreaders ------------- 7 degrees above Horizontal
> Which comes from here:
>
> DUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm
>
>
>
> Good luck with #118.
> Caleb
>
>
>
> From: maurygallaher <gallaher@...>
> To: T27Owners@...
> Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm
> Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118
>
>
> Hello, everyone!
>
> Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
> like the waybackmachine or other archives?
>
> I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
> currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
> outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.
>
> After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
> (about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
> so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
> for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
> enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
> bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
> dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
> looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
> general.
>
> Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
> had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
> this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
> of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
> ear.
>
> Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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