开云体育

I like the Racelite over the rubber ones because the stick will always fall to the deck if you lose it during a tack or whatever. With the rubber one it's usually pointing at some random angle in the

Tom, I have chronicled the build on a forum hosted by the company that provides the plans for the "Moonfish". All the details can be found

Hi Ralph. I'd like to hear more about your Sunfish clone. Have you told the story online somewhere? I'd enjoy reading all about it. I have a waterlogged old fish and that's an option I've been

I installed a cam cleat as opposed to a ratchetamatic and it works just as good. Got a ratchetamatic on my other boat. A cam cleat is a lot. West Marine has them and a big price too. Mr Mike Sent

When I built my Sunfish clone I had to build my own tiller and extension, rudder etc and this is what I went with: Racelite Tiller Extension Swivel https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/rl-494.htm I

Harken Distributor: Patterson Marine Pentwater, Michigan 49449 231-869-6411

Definitely. Length becomes the decision. 48” is used for racing, shorter for recreation sailing. I have carbon fiber extensions at 39” and aluminum ones at 36”. I can ship as well. These are

Get the universal joint so the tiller extension can be held at many different angles. With the one plane it’s harder and more uncomfortable to sail. Lee Montes. NY state Sunfish Class Rep.

Here is a follow up to my original question. I ended up purchasing a Harken ratchamatic block with stand up spring from Melges. Installed it on Saturday. It works great. So much better than

Okay, the new plug for the old bailer came from Essentra today and it fits perfectly. Part number FP120B, was less than twenty bucks ?with the shipping, though shipping was much more than the part

I fought this fight recently on a Sunfish. For the bailer cap, I was able to use a wrench to get it off. For the stuck stuck collar I got a socket and breaker bar, and couldn't budge it.? I

Hi Mark and all, I recently bought a 1971 sunfish with the original brass bailer. It does not work very well. Water gets drained very slowly when doing at least 4 or 5 knots, but as soon as I tack or

I believe all you need to cut is the nut in two places, remove it and then the entire part will fall out of the hole. The trick is not to cut the cockpit floor so go slow and steady.

Rolan; regarding the minifish bailer; why about using a router and a spiral-cut (AKA "zip") bit to get a slit cut in the collar? Might need to lay down some py to add support but you'd have precise

I bought a '74 Minifish with a steel bailer that is seized (both collar and the bailer cap) . Doused it with PB Blaster over the course of two weeks. Still won't budge.I'd grind it off with a Dremel

Six bucks for the Essentra plug... and 15 bucks to ship... ouch. ?But better than the cost of a replacement OEM brass one.

The link from Essentra looks promising; I'll let everyone know how it worked out when mine arrives. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks everyone. I looked at Melges. Nice site. Will call and order on Monday. Maybe I missed it but looks like minimal installations of ratchamatics. Thanks for your input. Dennis

McMaster-Carr has a variety of them.plugs | | | | | | | | | | | McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered

Here is a stainless steel option, pricey but stailess SS-6408 | SAE O-Ring Boss ORB to Head Plug | Titan Fittings | | | | | | | | | | | SS-6408 | SAE O-Ring Boss ORB to Head Plug | Titan