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Hi! I've been slowing doing a Subaru/Kennedy conversion to my Vanagon Syncro. I've run into a worrisome problem... I decided to replace the timing belt and the camshaft oil seals and the front and rear main seals before running my 1994 Legacy 2.2 engine in the Vanagon. I also obeyed the Subaru manual to check the hydraulic lift adjusters after replacing the timing belt, etc. So I did ... ALL the adjusters had air in them. Every last one of them (16). So I learned how to get the air out. But, in the process I noticed two unpleasant things about my right side camshaft. One of the lobes was "pitted" slightly, right at the peak (minimum radius of curvature). I decided that short of replacing the camshaft, there was nothing I could do about this. The second issue was that there was RUST on all of the cam surfaces. I used a brass brush and all of it came off pretty nicely, EXCEPT from one lobe. This lobe remains scratchy and bumpy to a fingernail rubbed across it... I reassembled everything, but now I wonder if I shouldn't open up the valve cover on the right side again and rub that lobe with some fine emery cloth or something to at least make it smooth. To replace the camshaft and this animal, you must remove the whole head. I don't want to do that. Please send me your best advice, even if it will be hard for me to hear! John jmates@...

For prospective converters, ONCE AGAIN, just can't stress enough the value of BEING SURE you can verify that all the required items are from the same vehicle: OTHERWISE KEEP LOOKING UNTIL YOU DO!! I bought my parts from a reputable and knowledgable salvage yard that stated they were very familiar with this conversion. Well... so far they've sent me two separate harnesses. The first one took me a few hours to figure out that it was wrong one. I found out later that not only was it the wrong one, but that only half of the harness was sent (there are two sections which connect together.) The second one came two weeks later, and I spent a whole week stripping and matching wires only to find out that the two main large (grey) plugs which connect to the harness on the engine do not match. Now what?? What else might not match?? Since the harness doesn't match the engine, is it possible that the computer might not either. To avoid future problems, should I start over from scratch with a whole new set (engine, harness, computer).... this time certain to come from the same vehicle. Can't proceed until I get some answers. Does anyone out there know: 1. Is there is any difference in computers from 90-94. 2. Do auto and manual shift cars have the same computer?? Is there a chance for a mismatch? 3. If neither 1. and 2. above matter, perhaps I can just get the correct plugs to match my engine and splice them in. Appreciate any feedback. Anyone know a good Subaru tech who could answer these questions. Warren C.

A brain is a terrible thing to be left on its own without supervision. I've been thinking again and have a question for Hobert and others. What about installing a water pressure gage in the copper radiator pipes that will turn on a red light and, better yet, sound a buzzer at loss of water pressure that I assume would accompany a burst water hose? Are there gages sensitive to as low as 5lbs plus/minus? Would steam production from the overheating engine create enough pressure to defeat this system? I have thought about this through the years because I heard so many stories about vanagon engines destroyed by loss of water. Last few years, however, I stopped thinking about it because I have now driven my van over 100k miles (174k total) without any water problems and that includes repaired heads (pitted heads filled). Only recently has compression dropped below 100 in two cylinders. I replaced most my hoses at 110k and am replacing all the heater hoses this time (Thanks to Ken Wilford of Van-Again). So maybe this is, once again, redundant behavior. In my 1970 bus I spliced the oil pressure light into the door buzzer alarm. I was rewarded the day an oil pressure galley plug blew out and left a 2.5 quart trail of oil as my wife pulled over to the side of the road. I think the engine might have gotten cooked if the buzzer didn't sound. I'm not sure how quickly a driver would notice a red light on a sunny day. Too much thinking?

Hello All, #1 I've asked this question before in a couple of other forums with no response, but i'll give it a try here. I'm looking for a KEP Subie conversion kit that someone purchased and decided not to use. i'm just trying to save a buck. I will convert my van whether i pay full price or not, but untill i save enough 100 dollar bills, i'm keeping my eyes open for a deal. Anyone know of one? #B Is there a less expensive, good quality way to upgrade the starter in my '85 Vanagon when i put in the 2.2 without buying from Hobert? Can i just use any '86 and newer starter? Thanks for the help! Patrick '85 Westy '73 Thing '84 911 Targa '88 Buick really big wagon. 4 sale - engine in wrong end

The idea of buzzers to draw attention to urgent happenings within the engine etc is great; I have considered fitting one to my oilpressure system. Even a superbright LED might well not be noticed during daytime, if you're not looking. A waterpressure sensor/buzzer would not be a bad idea in a vehicle with such lengths of hoses and pipes. Lots of potential for leaks or bursts there! You can't do TOO much thinking on this subject. That's partly what these lists are so good for; the exchange of ideas. Andrew Grebneff Dunedin New Zealand Molluscophile 69 VW Kombi-Corvair 75 VW Kombi (ex Toyota 3.5 V8) 84 VW T3 Caravelle GL/SVX 85 Mitsubishi Sigma Super Saloon 2.0 86 Toyota Corolla DX 1.8 diesel 89 Toyota Corona Select 2.0 diesel

Can anyone comment on the difference in low RPM torque (1500-2500 rpm) between the 2.2 Sub conversion and the standard 2.1L WBX. Is the Sub better or worse?

Dear Warren Thanks. So you are the one responsible for Hobert doing the SVX electrics. He told me he was donig it, but not that someone else had pushed him into it! I was going to buy the SVX electrics ($250US complete from wrecker) and wait for his wiring instructions. However it occurred to me that the Japanese-market computer etc would not be compatible with the US equivalents, and that it could well cost me more to get an autoelectrician to sort it all out than it would to go for an NZ-made aftermarket Link Electrosystems computer. This has further advantages: The restrictive airflow meter is discarded, yielding more power and removing a clearance problem in the engine-bay. Once the job is done, whenever that turns out to be, I will let subaruvanagon and vanagon.com know how it goes, plus any tips I can get the fellow doing the conversion to tell me! Regards Andrew Grebneff Dunedin New Zealand Molluscophile 69 VW Kombi-Corvair 75 VW Kombi (ex Toyota 3.5 V8) 84 VW T3 Caravelle GL/SVX 85 Mitsubishi Sigma Super Saloon 2.0 86 Toyota Corolla DX 1.8 diesel 89 Toyota Corona Select 2.0 diesel

Greetings. I am a new subscriber to these Vanagon lists and find them interesting and helpful. Since '93 I and my wife have been the happy owners of an '86 GL Syncro, now with 175K miles. Unfortunately my original engine, in otherwise good running condition (needs the heads resealed for external coolant leak), needs to be changed because of contamination of the oil system from a failed oil filter. This has lead me to consider the options of a different engine. I have looked at the different options shown on the Vanagon web site. Maybe I missed something, but is there anyone who has installed a Turbocharged Diesel with as much or more power than the 2.1L and capable of reving high enough to cruise at 70+ mph? My other interest is in the Subaru conversion. Some questions for those who have done it. What was the total cost by the time you were finished? About how long did it take to complete the job? Has it given better gas milage? If so how much? How does this conversion affect the resale value. Although I have already read a lot about this through the web site and e-mail groups, I have not yet gotten through all the archives. If the answers to my questions are already out there, forgive me for asking again and point me in the right direction. A comment about oil used. Since I have had this van (68K to 175K) I have used only synthetic oil. First Amsoil, than Mobil 1 and now Castrol Syntec. The engine still has good power and compression and uses no oil (OK 1/2 qt in 4000 mi). I resently found out that Castrol Syntec is what my local VW dealer recomends. thanks for all the input. Ray Brubaker

I'm aware that SVXs were very rare wherever they were sold, and they weren't sold on many markets. I tried for a year to locate one in Japan, going through 2 parts dealers/wreckers there. One found one, but said it was far too expensive. i almost bought a 290hp WRX 2liter but an SVX engine resurfaced locally (also exJapan). Here they go for $1250US or so, which I paid for mine, some with all electrics. I was quoted that price for another with everything (plus 12.5% GST). If they go for this here, they should be affordable from Japan...IF one can be found. There's a book called "The Japan Yellow Pages", which has an extensive section of parts dealers and car dealers, all of whom export. It's rather like a phonebook. Should be available in the US, perhaps in your public library (as it is here). The stock trans I CANNOT BELIEVE will handle 230-260hp, even if beefed. The axles won't, so Sway-a-Way told me today (I'm still in the process of locating parts to adapt my 915 trans). The VW CVs might, but the axles will break if you use the performance, and if you fit the engine it would be a waste not to, huh? Exhaust? You'd have to dump it, due to groundclearance problems; why not make a stainless extractor? Music to the ears. If a VW boxer sounds good with one, the boxer-6 should sound really sweet. Andrew Grebneff Dunedin New Zealand Molluscophile 69 VW Kombi-Corvair 75 VW Kombi (ex Toyota 3.5 V8) 84 VW T3 Caravelle GL/SVX 85 Mitsubishi Sigma Super Saloon 2.0 86 Toyota Corolla DX 1.8 diesel (410000km plus 30000+ rewound, going strong) 89 Toyota Corona Select 2.0 diesel (508000 km plus 30000+rewound,going strong)

Hi, Does anybody out there have a subaruvan any where near the Wash. DC area? I am interested in seeing/driving one before I commit to this conversion. Thanks Dennis Atkins ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com

Hello Hobert, The 3.3 liter sounds wonderful (from a testosterone point of view) but from a practical point of view it sounds like something to stay away from: a. not many engines around b. likely to get expensive if interests gets going c. and no cheap motors available meaning an expensive rebuild when it gets tired d. the mileage will go down substanially A better alternative would be the 2.5 liter which is used in so many of Subaru vehicles now and should be available from the importers and is available at reasonable prices from the wreckers right now. We currently have 2 of your 2.2 literVubaru inserts but would consider upgrading to the 2.5 liter when the motor change over time comes, due to the fact we tow trailers quite a bit with our vehicles. We have driven the Forester for a week and with an automatic it was getting 29 miles per gallon. Any update to the Oil Pan for 2.2 liter?? I would like to thank you for a wonderful motor kit that has elevated a good vehicle to a great one. Other than the fact that neither of our vans has AC (yet the Subaru has the compressor) and we die on hot summer trips across the central valley, we can see keeping these vans for a long time. Has anyone got any leads/help for doing a retrofit hookup of the AC from scratch on two 1985 van/trucks ?? We would actually prefer having professionals doing it but none of the shops in Bay area and Sacramento want to do custom work. Jay Gardner 2- 1985 Vubaru's

Boy, am I getting excited about this conversion. For the past couple years, I've had my eyes on all the mainstream conversion options: - The 5cyl Audi conversion: Plenty of power, but the conversion sounds like a major hassle - Fast Forward I-4 kit. Power only OK. Kit seems a little too backyard if you're really going to the effort to keep things VW stock. - South Africa I-4 kit: Beautiful kit. Power OK. Expensive and getting more so every time I check (pushing 5k with shipping). Long lead time to get kit (couple months). No o2 sensor, other iffy wiring issues. - KEP suby kit: Clean, reasonable price, good power. No longer VW. Loooowww Oil Pan. I resisted the Subaru kit from the beginning because I wanted to keep my van "pure." But every time I see my sister-in-law drive up in her crappy, poorly maintained, 190k mile, perfectly running 12 year old suby wagon, I'd weaken a bit. I think the last straw was the realization that all trips over 50 miles brought on an acute noise reflex. Every little sound or hesitation from the wasserboxxer was accompanied by me quickly turning the radio down, telling my wife and dog to be quiet, and a tense sphincter. As you all know, that's no way to take a vacation! So, I'm now _nearly_ ready to embrace the Suby kit for my late summer project. I think the only thing that holds me back is the low-hanging sump. I have a Syncro, and plan to continue using it in locales where the syncro-size (or at least normal vanagon) clearance is essential. If any one has success stories, plans, ideas, etc for working around this clearance issue, I'd love to hear about it. BTW, does anyone know how the 2.5L does for clearance? I wouldn't mind the extra power, but I don't really _have_ to have it either. However, if the clearance was better, I'd go for it in a second. That's it for now. Thanks! Tim King Seattle WA 87 Syncro Westy

Howdy Folks, I'm still collecting the $$ to do my Subie conversion. I'd really like to see a converted Vanagon if possible. I live in Phoenix and I'll be in South New Jersey for the first week in July. If anyone is near either location and wouldn't mind me looking, please reply. Best regards, Patrick '85 Westy

I just bought a Chilton's manual for Subarus from NAPA for $16.00; book number (8259) 64302. I don't know if this is the one Hobert was talking about but the engine wiring diagram is not even close in detail to the Mitchell diagram. If anyone was looking at this diagram while reading my earlier dissertation on coloring wires they might wonder why I made it sound so complicated. The Mitchell diagram is two full pages while the Chilton is one half page. Chilton shows WHERE the wires go. Mitchell, however, shows you HOW they get there, how Subaru spliced the wires and has all the computer terminals in order and most of the engine plugs. It makes tracing the wires much easier if you are inclined to take that step and is compatible with Hoberts computer plug detail page. I have found the rest of the manual very informative concerning the engine maintenance. Timing belt, cam and crank seal replacement and everything else I want to spruce up on my engine is in this book. Not as detailed as the Subaru shop manual but adequate and less expensive.

Has any one got this combination to work? Mine runs but there are no gauges. I had to get help with the wires and he fried the instrument pannel in the process. I don't want to give it a long run with out the gauges to keep up on engine status. Martin in Kansas

What year did Subaru convert from R-12 refridgerant to 134A refridgerant? I want to use the compressor out of the Subaru instead of the VW one. It'd be nice if I didn't have to use R-12. Mike Barfield '84 Westy Tampa, FL

Because of all the missmatched parts......engine, computer????, wiring plugs, oxygen sensor and fear of later problems, the place I bought my Subaru bits has offered to take them all back and replace with items verified from the same car (this time still intact in the yard). Although I would lose all my work with the wiring harness, I'm leaning towards taking them up on it. This whole engine and related bits has never "felt right" with one after another problem from day one ..... (i.e. two wrong wiring harnesses, questionable computer match, and just today. discovered exhaust pipe they sent with the oxygen sensor(s) was from a 96 (two sensors) when the engine is a 92(one sensor)) . I wanted to take better pictures to record the steps anyway and now that I have a better idea of what I'm doing, I hope the (3rd)harness will go more quickly. Warren C.

After seeing some encourging info and pics on the web, I decided to spare the van its suitable crushing and try a vanaroo conversion. After all its not the vans fault, but the gutless,aircooled valveseat eaten,to expensive to rebuild the 3rd time,fuel injected 2L that has brought about this maddness. So,the radiator is in,the heater core fanunitcomponet with controls is in and they're both plumbed aft to the engine compartment where the 2.2 Subaru has made its home.The rest of the cooling parts are not installed and the wiring is getting the best of me.The fuel tanks leaking gromets have been replaced along with a new (used) sending unit.Automotive electronics is not a strong point of mine yet so any advise/help would be great. Mark Riedel

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Hello listers, I've updated the Urabus site slightly. Some new photos and info. I apologize that I can't say exactly where the few updates occur within the page. http://www.cycoactive.com/urabus Tom PS Does anyone have any experiece changing the upper control arm bushings? My dealer says they're $80 each (X4=$320). Mine have visible slop and need to be changed. Can you tell me where to find info (besides the Bentley man'l)? -- +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | website: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@... +------------------------------------+