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Hi fellow Subaruvians, Once you get past wiring hell and into trouble free motoring you might start getting bored because there is nothing left to do but change the oil, now and then. Don't despair! You will soon have time to think about camping refinements. Here are a few of mine since Subaru lift off! http://www.mcn.org/b/roadcow/addition.html I'm wishing "Happy Camping" in the near future to those still in the depths of wiring hell! Ron Bloomquist Vanaru - 1984 Vanagon/1991 Subie 2.2 ROADCOW - 1971 Willfailya/1981 Toyota Corolla 3TC

Hi, Ok, we are in the group. We get questions daily about the Subaru Vanagon conversion. Let us know what you want us to pass on. Anything I can't answer goes to Hobert for his input. Susan Kennedy Engineered Products 38830 17th St. East Palmdale, CA 93550 (661) 272-1147

Here is a "heads up": Excerpt from "Repowering the Vanagon" brochure from KEP RADIATOR PLUMBING. Copper tubing is the easiest way to plumb the radiator. Copper is not compatible with the aluminum engine so it is important to keep a good corrosion inhibitor or antifreeze in the system. The ‘86+ Vanagon used special plastic plumbing which works works fine. Do not attempt to use PVC plastic tubing because it will not withstand the required heat and pressure. Customer wrote: I can tell you that the plastic plumbing pieces did not work. The hot > water mis-shaped the plastic tee and caused a water loss and resultant > overheat. Had to replace with iron tee. water system now holds > pressure and heats up well. > > However, since the overheat event, The car overheats all the time. > Can't drive it. I found out I had the water hoses backwards. The > diagram is not clear in your instructions, however, the text was clear. > I followed the text the second time. I pulled off the water pump and it > seems to be working fine. I tested the thermostat and it starts to open > at 175 and becomes fully open at 195 to 200 degrees. The water system > is not overpressuring so I don't think it's a blown head gasket, but > besides that, any ideas?? Hobert's reply: Maybe I need to be more forceful in explaining why you should not try to use PVC plumbing. The water system will not flow if there are any air pockets in the system. The water system will not flow if the thermostat does not see the hot water returning from heater circuit so both heater valves must remain open or install a bypass in the ?" line. The thermostat never opens like most cars. It only opens a little when it needs a sip of cold water from the radiator which remains cool. The Subaru thermostat keeps the engine so warm that the overheat light stays on in some vans. A low water level also will make the overheat light come on . Susan Kennedy Engineered Products 38830 17th St. East Palmdale, CA 93550 (661) 272-1147

When I read messages posted in the Syncro list, also hosted by eGroups, I only see part of the email address of the sender. I assumed this would also be the case with our group. (I see the full address but eGroups instructions to moderators says this would be the case.) Do all of you see full email addresses when other list members post messages to the group?? If you do, let me know, and maybe I can set the list parameters or get help from eGroups to change this. I'll check with Steve Schwenk who moderates the Syncro list to see if he can shed some light on this for me. I spam is one lifes worst scourges and have received my share from posting to some other groups, but none from my participation in the Syncro list, so I want to do everything I can to protect this list from those jerks. Warren

Mike, I have a auto ECU in my truck and a 4 speed trans and it works perfect. Hobert is right. Jay 1985 Truck Vubaru

Hello folks, I'm glad to find this resource available. As my title indicates, I am "on the fence" on whether to convert or not convert. Most knowledgable folks that I've spoken to here in CT suggest the Subaru as well. Is it really better then a Jetta or GTI ? I have an 86 Vanagon GL that I use as a work vehicle for carpentry and the like. It hurts to have it down and can't afford to be w/out a vehicle for too long. I have a moderate amount of mechanical ability and I struggle with auto electrics; how long of a process can I anticipate in converting my vanagon ? I've been reading the archives to this list, while the general tone is very supportive and optomistic, I daresay that the project seems a bit intimidating. This coming from a man that has rebuilt a 1.9L for my 84, twice. Any direct comments you can give to me to help me with this decision would be helpfull. I should add that $3000 is about my limit whether I convert, buy a rebuilt, or sell off and start anew. Thanks and I'll keep reading, Arnold Daley

After only three days we have 29 members in this group, including luminaries Hobart Kennedy (KEP), Ron Bloomquist(Roadcow website) and Tom Myers (of Eurabus/"Vanaru" website fame)(where's Dick??), WELCOME TO EVERYONE!! If you wish to meet and/or network with others doing SubaruVanagon conversions in your area, you may wish to add your location to your signature block (as well as any other contact information you are willing to divulge to fellow list members. FYI... to protect list members from spam, e-mail addresses are only available (according to egroups)to me as the group founder/moderator. Warren Chapman Mill Valley, CA (San Francisco Bay Area) '90 Syncro Westy

Ed McKinley, here, new member of this new list. Getting in on the ground floor. Imagine what our stock will be worth in a few years. I am also in the middle of a Kennedy conversion. Putting a 91 2.2 into an 85 Weekender. We have had the vanagon for 8 years and want to keep it. 173k on an original water boxer engine. Valves, rings and pitted heads repaired 102k ago. Runs like a champ but has consistently low compression in two cylinders, one each head, varying from 60 to 90lbs each. Plagued with air and gasses in the cooling system. Purging the system only works for a short while. I believe there is are slow leaks through the head gaskets into the coolant system. Decided to do the Subaru conversion (after several serious threats from my friend Ron Bloomquist). I have completed the wiring harness conversion and will be futzing with the engine this weekend. New timing belt, valve cover gaskets, cam and crank seals, before the engine goes in the van! Ron's experiences and help have been invaluable to me and information from the Meyers brothers has been very helpful. They have come up with clever fixes and tips like soldering a copper wire ring around the copper water pipe to simulate the ridge on a water hose connector pipe to help hold the hose in place. I thoroughly enjoyed the wiring harness puzzle. Very stimulating and was sad to see it removed from the dining room table where it resided for over 2 weeks (my wife, however, was happy to see it go.) I spray glued the blueprint to a piece of plywood to provide a ridgid work surface that would not harm the table. I tested continuity on every wire and used a Subaru wiring diagram to make sure all wires went to where they are supposed to. Cross connection continuity tests produced some alarming results until I unplugged the computer. I was getting continuity between hot and ground in all the shielded wires as well as others. With the computer out of the loop everything tested fine. Kennedy recommends bypassing the engine ground plug and ground directly to the engine. Ron and I discussed this at length. I decided that Subaru pretty much knew what they were doing even though I can't see where their ground wires are going to. I have kept the eight ground wires attached to this plug. I did splice some or all of them in with one or two left over wires needing grounding and will ground them to the engine creating some redundancy. That reminds me to make notes as to what I did in case there are problems or questions later. Hope it works!

A rainy Sunday in San Francisco allowed me to concentrate on my wiring and make some major progress. Finally, got it pared down to the essentials with all the useless stuff cut away and all the necessary wires taped together. Next step is measuring correct lengths, soldering, taping, and tidying up. It seems silly to have such a huge box of waste wires and so few left that are necessary. Hopefully,... someday future converters won't have to go through this. ONE QUESTION for those who have done this before????. I ended up with the alternator connections completely separate from the rest of the wiring. Is this correct?? Warren

Howdy Folks, I too am going to convert my '85 Westy to Subaru power. I'm interested in what my 1.9L might be worth. It has 108K miles. I think it is still healthy (but that can all change tomorrow). I'm also interested in how much money i'm going to leak before i'm done. Another silly question. Does anyone have experience with the Subie Turbo engine? I live in Phoenix and would love to see a converted Vanagon first hand. Please reply if you are in my area. Patrick

---Ed McKinley wrote: if Ed; Are you referring to the wiring diagram in the Chilton's Subaru Repair Manual or did you get one from Subaru (or elsewhere). Warren Chapman

My '90 Van has(or had) both A/C and Cruise Control. I value them both for those long trips down Hwy 5 enroute to my favorite mountain spots. Would like to hear any experiences of getting these accessories to work. The AC seems not too difficult, but the cruise control is a definite challenge. Warren C. San Francisco Bay Area '90 Syncro Westy

QUESTION+++ Do you have Syncro specific air intake plumbing?? (If so I don't have it in the kit I received.) I understand that you have sold quite a few kits to Syncro owners. The Syncro has special air-intake plumbing which is designed to allow the Syncro to go through high water without sucking water into the air intake. Outboard of the Vanagon air filter the air intake has a special dust trap and then connects with another plastic pipe which extends vertically inside the body panel to draw air from the vent behind the last window. All of this plumbing is on the passenger side of the vehicle. Your standard kit shows all of the intake plumbing, including your special piping, air cleaner and intake silencer unit on the drivers side of the engine bay. Maybe I haven't read everything thoroughly, (haven't gotten past wiring HELL yet) but I haven't seen any specific instructions for Syncro's regarding this special air intake plumbing. ALL YOU SYNCRO CONVERTERS PLEASE CHIME IN WITH YOUR EXPERIENCE. Warren C. '90 Syncro Westy

I'm a new member of this list, having seen the announcement of its beginning on vanagon.com. I guess most members are vanagon.com as well? I am gathering parts and information for my 84 Caravelle's upcoming conversion. Currently it is fitted with a 174hp 3.8liter V6 from a VN Holden Commodore (Holden is the Australian GM division). The 094 5-speed was in the process of failing when I bought it, and I wanted to fit a Porsche trans. However then I decided that as the heavy iron anchor causes serious understeer, I should go to Subaru power. I bought a 250hp 3.3liter EG33 engine from an SVX wreck in Japan. This will be desmogged and run an aftermarket computer, so should produce 260hp or a bit more. Engine cost $1250US; I could have had the computer etc from another Jap wreck for a further $250US, but due to uncertainty as to how well this would work (I know Hobert Kennedy of KEP is working on the SVX electrics now, but the US wiring etc is unlikely to be compatible with a Japanese-market engine system, and it could end up extremely expensive to get fitted from scratch) I passed this up and just grabbed the ignitor for $27. As I have serious doubts about any VW trans to handle 200hp-plus I brought a late-type (aluminum-case) Porsche 915 trans in from the States. I have found out how to do most of the fitting of this to the van, but it will need shifter, front mount and output flange adaptors fabricated. As VW axles can break under severe loadings use of Porsche 930 CVs is judged wise, and the 915 drive flanges, which accept VW CVs, need adaptor plates made. After the trans is fitted I can measure things up and order Sway-a-Way axles. This seems seriously fiddly. Nobody makes a full kit, though Weddle sells SAW axles, 930 CVs, 930 stubaxles etc for a decent price, it lacks shifter adaptor, front mount and 930 output flanges. Does anybody have experience fitting one of these trans? The Getrag G50 trans, fitted to later 911s, is far stronger and better-shifting than the 915, and is just about bulletproof. I think I have found a G50-Vanagon kit in Germany. Apparently it is complete, including short-bellhousing trans, mount, shifter adaptor, CVs (G50-equipped 911s use 930 CVs), stubaxles, axles etc, all for DM4500 ($2250US). It was offered to my by Claer Automabile through an e-mail intermediary who doesn't know cars. Herr Claer is not on e-mail, says through this lady that I can reach him by fax. However, though he speaks good Englisch, he doesn't reply directly to my faxes, but passes them via his friend, who doesn't like it. Has anyone else been in contact with Herr Claer? The G50 kit will not cost all that much more than the 915 plus incomplete kit, and when fabrication and labor are taken into account for the 915, the supposedly bolt-in G50 kit may actually be cheaper, as well as much easier. I need to claerify this business before I can make an order, either for the Claer or Weddle kit. German Vanagon nuts and websites haven't been of any help. Can anyone on this list help? Andrew Grebneff Dunedin New Zealand Andrew Grebneff Dunedin New Zealand Molluscophile 69 VW Kombi-Corvair 75 VW Kombi (ex Toyota 3.5 V8) 84 VW T3 Caravelle GL/SVX 85 Mitsubishi Sigma Super Saloon 2.0 86 Toyota Corolla DX 1.8 diesel 89 Toyota Corona Select 2.0 diesel

I'm surprised to find that US prices for used Subaru engines are so high, especially as it seems that you get SOHC versions there. Here in New Zealand you can get a DOHC EJ20 (Legacy 2.0) for $350US. DOHC EJ20 single-turbo for $750US. DOHC EG33 (SVX) for $2250. Haven't seen EJ18 or EJ22 (1.8 and 2.2 Legacy) prices yet. Add about $250 for complete electrics. A dealer in Japan offered me a 290hp WRX Type RA EJ20 single-turbo for $1800US including shipping, with full electrics and 5-speed trans and driveshafts (I was thinking of modifying the trans case to flip the diff and use in my Vanagon). Many of these are brought in from Japan, either out-of-car or still mounted in wrecks brought in for parts. I am told also that the Legacy auto trans is weak and often gives problems. Others have told me that the 5-speed is weak too, but have doubts about that. Shame Subaru never produced a dieselboxer, though I'm sure they made prototypes. How about a turbodiesel DOHC 24V diesel six boxer? Has anyone tried modifying a Subaru trans to run backward for rear-engined application? Andrew Dunedin New Zealand Andrew Grebneff Dunedin New Zealand Molluscophile 69 VW Kombi-Corvair 75 VW Kombi (ex Toyota 3.5 V8) 84 VW T3 Caravelle GL/SVX 85 Mitsubishi Sigma Super Saloon 2.0 86 Toyota Corolla DX 1.8 diesel 89 Toyota Corona Select 2.0 diesel

I'm getting ready to install my subaru engine. It has been sitting quietly for 6 months since its host vehicle got rear ended. Does anyone have any recommendations about preparing an engine for starting. My concern is that the oil may have drained down and most the bearing surfaces may be dry. Many years ago, when I worked on the air the cooled engines we used a very, very viscous oil on all the moving parts if the engine was going to sit for any time and even if it was going right in.

I've taken apart engines that have sat for years, and the parts are not dry. Six months is nothing. I'd just start it. Tom -- +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@... +------------------------------------+

How do I set it so that my own messages don't come back to me? Andrew

Warren, It appears that you are relatively close to Ron's and my vanagon loctaions in Mendocino county. You might want to make a trip up here before you install your engine to see what it looks like. I expect to complete my swap by the middle of June. Alternatively, if I successfully complete mine in time for my daughter's college graduation ceremony my van will be in Alemeda the weekend of June 17. Could possibly meet you in Marin county on our way down on Friday afternoon the 16th. As noted by the Meyers brothers, it is very handy to see what the end product will look like.

Hello everyone I am a new member to this group and was delighted to see something on this subject on the net. I have put 13,000 miles on my 89 Syncro Camper since the Kennedy conversion and would be happy to describe my experience with the conversion and give advice, exspecially to the fello Syncro owners. I have lots of experience with vibrating drive shafts also. Any way, I am going to finish typing and start checking out this site. Hope to hear from you; Richard