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Re: Subaru coolant plumbing issues --

John Mates
 

Larry:

On my engine, the mounting holes are exactly symmetrical and
one can reverse the pipe without altering anything EXCEPT -- the
radiator feed extension end of the pipe interferes with the bell on
the rear of the engine, sooo ... I sawed it off.

I left about 3" of pipe to clamp the hose to. I could not bead
the end of this aluminum cast pipe so I carefully sawed a couple of
parallel shallow grooves around the pipe for the rubber hose to grab.

In addition, the heater hose end of the pipe would strike the
intake manifold next to the power steering pump, but since this end
is a steel tube, bolted on to the Al casting, I carefully bent it just
enough to let it peek through between the power steering pump and the
manifold.

So now the radiator feed end is aimed at the Vanagon plastic
radiator feed tube and the heater feed end is aimed at the stock
position of the burp tank.

John

John Mates
jmates@...
(503) 264-8023

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Hamm [mailto:LDHAMM@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 2:01 PM
To: subaruvanagon@...
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Subaru coolant plumbing issues --


John Mates wrote:

Since I have done the SA 180 degree rotation of the aforementioned pipe, I
will
be able to route the radiator feed directly from the flywheel side of the
engine
John,
You raise some interesting questions for which I have no answers, but I'm
sure
the list can comment.
I do wonder how you reversed the "pipe" under the throttle body? I was going
to
do this, but upon closer inspection, I realized the mounting bolts holes
were
not identically positioned on each end. Did you drill new holes to match up
to
the block? Subagon minds want to know!
Thanks,
Larry


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Re: Subaru coolant plumbing issues --

Larry Hamm
 

John Mates wrote:

Since I have done the SA 180 degree rotation of the aforementioned pipe, I
will
be able to route the radiator feed directly from the flywheel side of the
engine
John,
You raise some interesting questions for which I have no answers, but I'm sure
the list can comment.
I do wonder how you reversed the "pipe" under the throttle body? I was going to
do this, but upon closer inspection, I realized the mounting bolts holes were
not identically positioned on each end. Did you drill new holes to match up to
the block? Subagon minds want to know!
Thanks,
Larry
Subaru coolant plumbing issues --

John Mates
 

List members:

I am thinking a lot about how to plumb my Vanaru transplant. Hobart and
others
are VERY emphatic about the need to move coolant past the thermostat as the
engine warms.

I note, however, in the Subaru engine manuals for my 1994 Legacy 2.2 engine,
that THERE IS ALREADY A BYPASS which runs from the aluminum pipe under
the intake manifold to the heater return pipe. In fact, there are two short
sections
of rubber hose which take the water from a fitting in this pipe to the air
intake and
then back to a short branch off the heater return pipe.

Do I infer that this bypass is insufficient? Was it insufficient in the
Legacy?

Since I have done the SA 180 degree rotation of the aforementioned pipe, I
will
be able to route the radiator feed directly from the flywheel side of the
engine
forward without having to build the large "L" shaped plumbing required to
bring
the radiator feed forward from near the left rear tail light that others
have built.
The heater end of the rotated pipe will feed the "burp" tank which stays in
its
original position on the rear splashguard. So goes my theory.

Now a question: Can I feed the "burp" tank this way and use the "burp" tank
out pipe (just as was done in the Vanagon) to route more water back to the
heater return to create more bypass flow, if necessary? The reason I want
to
do this is that I imagine that the "burp" tank will capture more bubbles if
water
actually flows through it. A variant of this question is: why is the
"standard"
procedure a routing of the radiator feed water past the burp tank; why not
route
the bypass water past the burp tank, if, as Hobart says, the engine only
sips
from the radiator, but the flow in the bypass circuit must never cease!

Please stop me from cooking my engine if you have reasons to believe this
design won't work!!

Thanks

John



John Mates
jmates@...
(503) 264-8023
Re: Supervising Pullout???

KEP
 

We provide the 6 nuts for the exhaust but not the 2 nuts for the Subaru
rubber engine mounts. Keep the radiator hoses from both engines.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147

----- Original Message -----
From: Warren Chapman <tallsound@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 11:56 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Supervising Pullout???


I'll be returning the "first engine" and parts tomorrow and examining
the car my "second engine" will come from.

Regarding "supervising the pullout" which miscellaneous bits should I
be trying to get other than Kennedy's list of required parts.

I think someone mentioned "exhaust nuts". Aren't nuts provided in
Kennedy's kits for attaching the new exhaust headers???


Warren C.


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1990 Legacy on Ebay

Mike Barfield
 

Saw this Legacy on Ebay. Ad says it has a bad transmision. 15K on
rebuilt engine. That's all I know, I have no connection to this
auction so don't ask me.

Mike Barfield
'84 Westy
Tampa, FL



ViewItem&item=347050266&r=0&t=0
Re: Supervising Pullout???

Ed McKinley
 

Look in the glove compartment for the owners manual for engine service requirements.

Now that you know what wiring harness connectors you need look the new harness over closely.? Mine came missing two connectors that were torn off during engine removal and I'm having a hard time getting replacements.
?
?

Warren Chapman wrote:

I'll be returning the "first engine" and parts tomorrow and examining
the car my "second engine" will come from.

Regarding "supervising the pullout" which miscellaneous bits should I
be trying to get other than Kennedy's list of required parts.

I think someone mentioned "exhaust nuts".? Aren't nuts provided in
Kennedy's kits for attaching the new exhaust headers???
?

Warren C.

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?
?
Supervising Pullout???

Warren Chapman
 

I'll be returning the "first engine" and parts tomorrow and examining
the car my "second engine" will come from.

Regarding "supervising the pullout" which miscellaneous bits should I
be trying to get other than Kennedy's list of required parts.

I think someone mentioned "exhaust nuts". Aren't nuts provided in
Kennedy's kits for attaching the new exhaust headers???


Warren C.
Re: buying an engine (remotely)

Marshall Ruskin
 

Hi Marshall,

"Aarons All Subaru" in Seattle (206-243-4665) has a '90 with 73K
(today, 5/31). They call this a 'low miles" motor and are pretty
proud of it. Maybe it's really clean? They bid $1500 to pack the
entire 'kit'. I don't know about shipping, you'd have to call them.
OK

It seems like yards bid low on the first, then after they realize how
much work it is (ie pulling parts by customer's rules) they raise
their 'kit' price. Looks like it might be worthwhile to find a
virgin yard, provided *YOU* can do the inspection and coaching
yourself.
There's some truth to that, all right!

There's something to be said for finding a good one and jumping on it.

I'd be willing to work out some inspection functions, but I think the
job entails a minimum of two trips to the yard.
That's reasonable, too.

First to check the car prior to pulling parts. For checking the car,
I'd look at the odometer, make an educated guess as to whether it's
truly 73K, not too smashed up or owner-abused, yard-abused etc.
Possibly hear it run, which would entail more time. I can pre-coach
them on the pull, but can't make any promises how they will do their
job.

There might be an interim step where I report back to you with
concerns prior to **you** giving the yard the go-ahead. If there is
a time lapse between my "coaching" and your 'go-ahead' then the
'coaching' might lose its effect.

Then I'd need to return to the yard and verify that everything's
there per the list before they pack and ship.

Like to help, but definitely need to get some details straight first.
Any project, to be done "right" you have to do it yourself, otherwise
be mentally prepared to 'deal with it'. I feel I can do a good job,
but if other problems crop up that you feel I should have sniffed out
in advance, then where do we stand?

You're right on everything. I guess, in this case, because the potential for
problems is so obvious, it's best to stay as colleagues, and not as
comrades!

Thanks Pal for the good points. I'll find something locally - who knows, I
might even learn something!

Kind Regards,

Marshall Ruskin




Tom

===============================

Hi Tom:

Do you think that the yard (Aaron's Subaru) is now competent to do the job
properly, and ship the stuff out?

Would you trust them to do it now, if it were you ordering the parts from
afar?

Perhaps, for $50 bucks or something, when the time comes, I could ask you
to
take a look for me - and ensure that everything is as it's supposed to be?

Seems to me, that you could get a regular clientele by doing this, and so
could the yard. Confidence is a very valuable and rare commodity - highly
prized.

Thanks,

Marshall Ruskin
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| website:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+

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Re: best match: automatic or standard ?

kjanda
 

My van is a South African import to Australia (Microbus), and it has the
standard tranny in it . you may be surprised that it is a very strong box
considering the original engines power output.
buying an engine (remotely)

Tom Myers
 

Hi Marshall,

"Aarons All Subaru" in Seattle (206-243-4665) has a '90 with 73K (today, 5/31). They call this a 'low miles" motor and are pretty proud of it. Maybe it's really clean? They bid $1500 to pack the entire 'kit'. I don't know about shipping, you'd have to call them.

It seems like yards bid low on the first, then after they realize how much work it is (ie pulling parts by customer's rules) they raise their 'kit' price. Looks like it might be worthwhile to find a virgin yard, provided *YOU* can do the inspection and coaching yourself.

There's something to be said for finding a good one and jumping on it.

I'd be willing to work out some inspection functions, but I think the job entails a minimum of two trips to the yard.

First to check the car prior to pulling parts. For checking the car, I'd look at the odometer, make an educated guess as to whether it's truly 73K, not too smashed up or owner-abused, yard-abused etc. Possibly hear it run, which would entail more time. I can pre-coach them on the pull, but can't make any promises how they will do their job.

There might be an interim step where I report back to you with concerns prior to **you** giving the yard the go-ahead. If there is a time lapse between my "coaching" and your 'go-ahead' then the 'coaching' might lose its effect.

Then I'd need to return to the yard and verify that everything's there per the list before they pack and ship.

Like to help, but definitely need to get some details straight first. Any project, to be done "right" you have to do it yourself, otherwise be mentally prepared to 'deal with it'. I feel I can do a good job, but if other problems crop up that you feel I should have sniffed out in advance, then where do we stand?



Tom

===============================

Hi Tom:

Do you think that the yard (Aaron's Subaru) is now competent to do the job
properly, and ship the stuff out?

Would you trust them to do it now, if it were you ordering the parts from
afar?

Perhaps, for $50 bucks or something, when the time comes, I could ask you to
take a look for me - and ensure that everything is as it's supposed to be?

Seems to me, that you could get a regular clientele by doing this, and so
could the yard. Confidence is a very valuable and rare commodity - highly
prized.

Thanks,

Marshall Ruskin
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| website:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+
Re: 915-930 drive flange adaptors

KEP
 

The adapter flanges are probably available from Jeff Fields at Transaxle
Engineering: Phone 818 998-2739 and from Jeff at Transform, 702 255-2053.

A G50 trans is geared for a 3.6 or similar engine and not suitable for a 2.2
Subaru. If you have a 915 tans intended for a 2.4 Porsche use it, or
better, keep the van trans. If your Subaru is a 3.3 fine but I cannot help
you find that German kit.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147

----- Original Message -----
From: <andrew.grebneff@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 3:30 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] 915-930 drive flange adaptors



I have been offered what SOUNDS like 930 adaptor flanges for my 915 trans
by an outfit which didn't identify itself in its e-mail, and I cannot find
any record of having asked them.

If I use this trans I will definitely want these items, and so need to
contact these folks, but having made the offer, they now won't answer a
request for verification of exactly what it is they have ("trans flanges
your 915 to 930-46.00 each thanks let me know---jeff").

Do anyone by any chance recognize the address or names?

"elaine quinn" <jekk@...>.

I have been offered a complete kit to fit a G50 to my Vanagon, including
the G50 by the sound of it, price DM4500, by a German outfit Claer
Automobile, who says I can reach him by fax. Fine, except that he refuses
to reply!

Looks like I can't win.

I definitely will want to buy a Subaru-to-Porsche kit from KEP, but cannot
make any move until I am able to pin down the trans-fitting bits I need
first, so I know which trans I'll be using (I really want that G50).


Andrew Grebneff
Dunedin
New Zealand
Molluscophile
69 VW Kombi-Corvair
75 VW Kombi (ex Toyota 3.5 V8)
84 VW T3 Caravelle GL/SVX
85 Mitsubishi Sigma Super Saloon 2.0
86 Toyota Corolla DX 1.8 diesel (410000km plus 30000+ rewound, going
strong)
89 Toyota Corona Select 2.0 diesel (508000 km plus 30000+rewound,going
strong)



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Re: 92 legacy engine w/ 99K mi

KEP
 

Option 1 - Keep looking but most cars six years or older will have that much
mileage.

Option 2 - Grab it, use it, then for a spare spend about $450 for a "Low
mileage" Japanese engine. Several companies are bringing these in.

Option 3 - Use it until it wears out in several years. By then I will know
how interchangeable the newer engines are. The only hang-up I know now is
the '96-98 exhaust pipe is different, also the '95+ wiring which I hope can
be made to operate on the newer engine block.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147

----- Original Message -----
From: Gary McEachern <glmce@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] 92 legacy engine w/ 99K mi


Hello

I visited a local junk yard today and took a look at a 92 Legacy with 99K
miles on it. I got what I believe was a very good price for all the parts
I
would need short of the KEP conversion kit. I was quoted $750 for the
engine, ECU, O2 sensor, intake air duct, AFM, motor mounts, throttle
cable,
engine and ECU harnesses, ignitor, ignition and fuel pump relays.

The only concern I have is the relatively high mileage and the fact that
the
yard is doing the removal based on the KEP supplied list.

I know that the engine should have a lot more miles to offer but still I
can't help think that I should pay a little more and get an engine with
less
miles on it.

Any suggestions?

Gary

Gary McEachern, Reading Ma.
'90 Westy
'84GL w/ Super Sunroof
'87GL Wolfsburg Weekender
'75 Spitfire

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Re: Exhaust System Cracks

Jay Gardner
 

Ed,

I had a crack develop right at the passenger side ex manifold on the Kep
supplied
exhaust system after about 20k, luckily we have a fabrication shop at our
business so it was no problem
to weld it back up.

But your suggestion of additional brackets is a good one and I think I will
add some
for additional support.

Jay
1985 Vubaru

----- Original Message -----
From: Ed McKinley <edmc@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 11:37 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Exhaust System Cracks


Looking through Tom Meyer's web site I noticed his comment about a crack
developing between the muffler and the cat. Ron Bloomquist's conversion
has a crack in the new header on the left side. I indirectly know three
people who've done the conversion and two have exhaust system cracks.

Any other completed conversions with exhaust system cracks out there?

I'm wondering if the tailpipe bracket at the end of the system is
causing too much flexing in the middle. The VW exhaust system has three
brackets on the left side at different angles and the extensive muffler
bracket on the right.

I'm wondering if VW didn't learn this lesson long ago and make design
amends. Flip side is, however, that I let my left side vw brackets rust
away and for at least 10k miles nothing happened. (I now have a
complete set of new or like new brackets that I no longer have a use for
and they were very expensive.)

I would like to hear from others on this to see if we think additional
brackets may help.


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Re: best match: automatic or standard ?

kjanda
 

I have a Subaru turbo with vw auto trans and it is a treat to drive, the
auto is almost the same as a Audi turbo tranny so its pretty tough. I have
210 horsepower going through my auto and I have given it a hard time with no
problems at all..
Re: best match: automatic or standard ?

Gary McEachern
 

Is the auto tranny the original Vanagon transmission or have you replaced it with a beefier one?

Gary

Gary McEachern, Reading Ma.
'90 Westy
'84GL w/ Super Sunroof (for sale)
'87GL Wolfsburg Weekender
'75 Spitfire

----Original Message Follows----
From: "kjanda" <kjanda@...>
Reply-To: subaruvanagon@...
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] best match: automatic or standard ?
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 16:50:47 +0930

I have a Subaru turbo with vw auto trans and it is a treat to drive, the
auto is almost the same as a Audi turbo tranny so its pretty tough. I have
210 horsepower going through my auto and I have given it a hard time with no
problems at all..




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Exhaust System Cracks

Ed McKinley
 

Looking through Tom Meyer's web site I noticed his comment about a crack
developing between the muffler and the cat. Ron Bloomquist's conversion
has a crack in the new header on the left side. I indirectly know three
people who've done the conversion and two have exhaust system cracks.

Any other completed conversions with exhaust system cracks out there?

I'm wondering if the tailpipe bracket at the end of the system is
causing too much flexing in the middle. The VW exhaust system has three
brackets on the left side at different angles and the extensive muffler
bracket on the right.

I'm wondering if VW didn't learn this lesson long ago and make design
amends. Flip side is, however, that I let my left side vw brackets rust
away and for at least 10k miles nothing happened. (I now have a
complete set of new or like new brackets that I no longer have a use for
and they were very expensive.)

I would like to hear from others on this to see if we think additional
brackets may help.
Urabus update

Tom Myers
 

Hello listers,

I've updated the Urabus site slightly. Some new photos and info. I apologize that I can't say exactly where the few updates occur within the page.



Tom

PS Does anyone have any experiece changing the upper control arm bushings? My dealer says they're $80 each (X4=$320). Mine have visible slop and need to be changed. Can you tell me where to find info (besides the Bentley man'l)?
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| website:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+
Re: best match: automatic or standard ?

Tom Myers
 

Has anyone out there driven both an automatic and a standard Subaru
conversion who could describe the differences?
I have no experience with the auto.

Does the automatic tranny shift faster and smoother with the Subie engine?
Is it fast?
Hobert tells how to modify the guv'nor so it revs higher between shifts. The Subaru will have more power and torque thru the entire rev range, so it's conceivable that you could refrain from modifying the guv.

Does the 4 speed wind through the gears too quickly making it a pain to
drive?
No, it's an absolute pleasure to drive. You can drive it the same as the wasserboxer if you want (ie 2000-4100). Only difference is that it will feel a little more powerful and much smoother/quieter. If you rev it to 5500 or 6000 it will be much more powerful, and remain smoother and quieter.

Tom
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| website:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+
Re: best match: automatic or standard ?

Patrick Bryson
 

wanna sell your engine?

----- Original Message -----
From: kjanda

I have a Subaru turbo with vw auto trans and it is a treat to drive, the
auto is almost the same as a Audi turbo tranny so its pretty tough. I have
210 horsepower going through my auto and I have given it a hard time with
no
problems at all..
Re: 92 legacy engine w/ 99K mi

Richard Myers
 

Gary McEachern wrote:

Hello

I visited a local junk yard today and took a look at a 92 Legacy with 99K
miles on it. I got what I believe was a very good price for all the parts I
would need short of the KEP conversion kit. I was quoted $750 for the
engine, ECU, O2 sensor, intake air duct, AFM, motor mounts, throttle cable,
engine and ECU harnesses, ignitor, ignition and fuel pump relays.

The only concern I have is the relatively high mileage and the fact that the
yard is doing the removal based on the KEP supplied list.

I know that the engine should have a lot more miles to offer but still I
can't help think that I should pay a little more and get an engine with less
miles on it.

Any suggestions?
Don't delay! Run down there and grab it before somebody else does. You might
want to supervise the removal to make sure they give you everything you need
and to pick up the discarded exhaust nuts, hoses, etc.

Dick Myers
Grass Valley, CA
'88 Vanaru
84441 - 84460 of 84582