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Very thorough, including smoke test at Throttle Body and IACV.....just a longshot guess, but did you use brand new gaskets for both?? I've had weird idle and "pop-pop-pop" in exhaust when

I have brand new injectors in it. I had diy cleaned the originals, but wanted to see if new would address the smaller hiccup i was having. Neither did the trick.

Mine engine was doing the same and after changing the injectors, it ran smooth again.? Maybe clean the injectors in an ultra sound cleaner, and rebuild them with new filters. You can send the

Thanks. Just the various misfire codes for cylinders 1,2,3, and 4. No other codes.

What a very well composed initial condition post! The only other helpful thing missing would be which code it is throwing. Andy 505-304-5306

I have noticed a slight stumble at idle when I have come to stops over the last several months. It would happen every 10 seconds when idling for extended periods (stop lights, etc). Seemed like more

Hi Rod, I recently replaced my CV joints on my 88 Westy w/auto trans. The van was converted two owners ago and also has the Small Call clocking plate. The two hole torque washers had been left off so

I have a small car set up… ‘85 Vanagon camper… 2.5L Subaru… manual and I am replacing the CV joints. The ECU pickup on the CV joint is a clocking plate and I just noticed that there is not

I agree with coolant temp sensor and check the o2 sensors and exhaust for leaks

Coolant temp sensor. It's in the top coolant manifold.

Thanks Jon – I had earlier replaced both the main relay and the fuel injection relay with brand new units. Those both worked fine, but sadly, did not solve this particular issue. By the way, I am

I had a similar problem. Do you have a spare fuel pump relay? I swapped out a fuel pump for nothing, when it was a bad fuel pump relay. I got a relay from the junk yard and it fired up right away.

thanks Brent . I have an extra solenoid valve I can test with .. Thanks Todd but I use the spedometer sensor approach for the speed sensor . John . i will probe the VSS wiring to see . all three

Hello members - my first posting, be kind... :) I am not a mechanic, just a hobbyist with limited knowledge but wanting to be more self-reliant. I've seen that this group is made up of many very

This may not apply, but on my 2.5l the engine would seemingly cut off and back on at about 65 mph forcing me to drive below that speed. Kept getting VSS codes. Finally found a VSS wire was out of

Hello, I had a very similar issue ("when I came off the hwy into a short exit - heavy downshifting/high rpm's) and it turned out to be the vehicle speed sensor was not aligned properly after I had

Great diagnostic work and write up Mark. If you are POSITIVE that the IAC is clean then I’d suggest a wire by wire check of the harness wires connecting the IAC to the ECU. That and more driving

Hi . im slowly breaking in my newly restored drive train ( 1994 AT 2.2 LEGACY OBD1? donor in a 86 syncro? westy) and after a 150 mile stretch all i got for codes was the normal AT neutral codes that

OK so (Brents and Waynes posts together...) on Vanagon Syncro :1. attach bottom char can hose to air intake (atmosphere)?2. and the top one to gas tank (vapors) ?? But what about the bottom fuel

Bottom hose on suby can runs back to suby gas tank. Bottom hose on VW can dumps into frame rail (atmosphere).