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Re: Warren’s Conversion - 2.1 Engine and Tranny Removal
开云体育Great photos and write up so far Warren thanks. I have a motorcycle jack too but I’m planning on using a lower profile appliance dolly under both the trans and motor. Sits quite a bit lower. If you’re short on room I’d try that rather than install the intake later as to me there is inherent risk with that or at least it’s a hell of a lot easier on a stand to drop the intake in place and make the many associated connections? Keep up the momentum! It’s inspiring me for sure. I’m rebuilding my alternator at the moment which is proving to be somewhat regrettable? On Sun, Feb 23, 2025 at 5:32?AM SubieVanagon via groups.io <wklail@...> wrote:
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - 2.1 Engine and Tranny Removal
As you can see, I don’t have much room up top because my garage ceiling is only 8ft. ?But I’m confident it will work. ?I need the rear “valance” of the bus to be 28 inches above the floor in order for me to roll the Subie engine in place on its motorcycle jack. ?Right now I have 24 inches of clearance, which should be enough to get the 2.1 and transmission out together. ?But before I try to install the Subie engine I will have to jack it up once again even higher. ?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy |
Re: Warren’s Conversion - 2.1 Engine and Tranny Removal
I drained the oil as well. ?So after working everything from the top side, I jacked it up and put stands under each rear tire (front tires chocked). ?Tomorrow I plan to disconnect the CV axles, shifter linkage, and anything else I see under there that needs to be disconnected before I go any farther. ?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy |
Re: Warren’s Conversion - 2.1 Engine and Tranny Removal
So today I began work in earnest disconnecting everything that would need to be removed in order to lower the engine out. ?This included the power steering lines, vacuum hoses, coolant lines from the thermostat housing and reservoir and those lines that attach to the plastic coolant rail that runs around the perimeter of the engine. ?I also disconnected the wires to everything that would otherwise prevent me from lowering the engine, including the O2 sensor wire. ?I also disconnected the throttle cable and the throttle cable bracket that attaches to the transmission. ?I was also able to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder from the engine side, which was nice. ?I wanted to do as much as possible from up top (I really don’t like lying on my back under a bus). ?The AC compressor has been dead for a long time and thankfully was not charged. ?I was able to pull the dipstick tube out of the block, but not the oil filler tube (does anyone know how to get it off, or does it even need to come off in order to lower the engine?). ?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy |
Re: Warren’s Conversion - 2.1 Engine and Tranny Removal
Because I intend to remove the gas tank to install stainless coolant pipes and to do maintenance on the tank lines, I drove it around until it was way below the empty mark. ?I carried a gallon of gas with me just in case I ran out and had to put a little in to get home. ?But I made it home safely. ?Then I removed the 7mm screw on the fuel “T” and attached a few feet of fuel line to it. ?I pulled the cover off to access the relay (Number 53) and used a jumper to cause the fuel pump to run, thus emptying the tank and all the lines. ?It worked very well.
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy |
Re: Warren’s Conversion - 2.1 Engine and Tranny Removal
I pulled the bus into my garage and, mustering courage, started prepping it for the removal. ?I began by using my shop vac to suck all the coolant out of the system by vacuuming through the coolant reservoir. ?I first opened the bleeder valve at the radiator to allow air to come in from the front. ?I vacuumed for a while, allowed things to settle, then vacuumed again and again. ?Eventually the system was bone dry.
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy |
Re: Warren’s Conversion - 2.1 Engine and Tranny Removal
Okay, so I’ve started on the removal of the 2.1 from my Vanagon to make way for the Subie 2.5.
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Here’s a photo of a perfectly good running 2.1 that I have driven coast to coast several times. ?The most recent trip was to Buses by the Bridge in Lake Havasu City, AZ. (About 700 buses there - way too many for me - been there, done that, don’t think I want to do it again).
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy |
Re: max continuous current draw / vw starter + ej22
Eric- I have made this mistake myself. I burned up an alt doing this. LI batts pull too much power when charging for a starting batt. Todd's reply is correct-it can burn up your alt unless the batt has a Batt Management System. Most modern LI batts do, but there are several issues, still. The BMS also limits discharge, which means it may not allow enough?current to the starter to start the car. This is to prevent a batt fire. Also the BMS can fail without warning, possibly resulting?in a fire. Its far safer to use LI batts just as house batts, where current?draw is lower. Its also best to use a secondary system to control currents, such as a Renology. It's far safer to use an AGM or lead-acid for starting batt. I'm running a three batt system-an AGM for starting and two LI for the camper through a Renology. Keep in mind that LI batteries always have the potential to catch fire, even if you do everything right. And the fires are virtually impossible to extinguish and produce toxic fumes. Thus, much care and caution is justified. |
Re: max continuous current draw / vw starter + ej22
It’s my understanding that a lithium battery will charge at much higher rates than a lead acid battery. It is able to do this because of a much lower internal resistance. It’s likely that your alternator would burn up if you happened to start the engine with the battery slightly drained. Keep a lead acid battery for starting and the lithium battery for auxiliary items.
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max continuous current draw / vw starter + ej22
I'm considering replacing my batteries with a 100 AH 12.6V LIFeP04.
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The few I examined thus far can support 100 A draw.? ?I hear the original starter drew 65A spinning the air-cooled engine.? ? ?At $150ish, seems far better than an agm or conventional lead-acid.
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I suspect that it's harder to spin the ej22 and wonder what the current draw is.??
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Also, I suspect that my subaru alternator has sufficient voltage capacity to charge it to ~80%.? ?
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I'm also tempted to add a 12V heater and (thermostat) so that the battery will charge in the winter.??
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Thoughts?(
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Thanks, Eric |
Re: ECU number translation/harness
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On Feb 13, 2025, at 9:32?AM, Nestor Baca <nbet07@...> wrote:
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Re: ECU number translation/harness
Busaru on YouTube provides the Wiring Harness Series-#7 ECU Pinout link for several Subaru years.?
On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 05:42:15 PM PST, Wayne Sitarz via groups.io <wesitarz@...> wrote:
Your number indicates a 00-01 Impreza using Google. If from an auto trans, I think? you could comb the wreckers for another harness including 02 since they are all similar. Check the pinouts for each year. They are all the same.
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ECU number translation/harness
I am buying a new harness because it seems I have multiple shorts in the harness on the motor section between grey plug and sensor plugs. I have sourced several on the internet but seems like I should be using the ECU numbers to match with the harness. Can anyone tell me which numbers on the ECU correspond to match a harness ?
2000 Impreza 2.5L SOHC auto trans I think because yrs ago we did ground the parking brake wire. The number on ECU which I think is what I should use is : 22611 AF581. Other (all) numbers on ECU include (from top to bottom, left to right) M2, 22611 AF581, A18-000 DY5 9823. The closest matching harness is 24020 AF531. So any guru advice out there on how to match up my ECU with a stock internet harness ? I tried iWire.com but they wont build a custom harness even though they have all the plugs and wire. I am also open to other wire loom shops or ideas. TIA SeanG 87 Syncro |
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