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Re: injector firing order
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On 5/9/2012 9:41 PM, luissenye wrote:Okay, how do I write this ? It is difficult to correct a long held belief when you have had no reason to believe otherwise, but in the interests of group information I feel I cannot ignore Scott's post about injector sequencing. Scott is a long time tech and from what I can gather very diligent . Some time ago, although not that long, I learned a lot about injection systems and the design of same. Briefly it boils down to this....an engine does not care what sequence injectors fire or if they inject one shot per 1 revolution ( half total volume.) or if they fire a full quantity at one time ....or if 20 injectors fire on a 2 cylinder motor or 2 injectors fire on a V8 motor .....or how much in advance of the intake valve opening or as the valve opens, as long as the fuel quantity is what is required. It tested not to matter if they are batch fired, pair fired or singly/sequentially fired and also tested it does not matter which way injectors fire or when.( Squirting up-stream has it's advantages.) Take for instance the CIS and later CIS-e Bosch fuel system. The injectors on this system design are squirting fuel all the time the engine needs fuel. Sequential systems : The reason is to reduce the fuel pressure drop that results from firing all at once.( Batch Firing.) Sequential does however make for very slightly smoother operation at idle with lean burn motors. The straight 6, V8's and V6's of Ford, Dodge and GM used two injectors in a throttle body that squirted constantly..don't forget all carb's are 'injecting ' fuel all the time. So having your sequential system hooked up just like the factory designed it is good, but not mandatory just as long as they fire . As long as the motor gets the fuel it need it care not a whit about when it's delivered..or whether it's in bulk or timed. If there is any papers out there that have more info on this I hope you'll bring them to my attention. So your Subaru motor will be happy with the system firing 'backwards' . ...and Tom? I hope this is not 'off topic'. regards dk . |
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Re: hey - Spam
No Tom,
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It was not you. Tom Moderator --- In subaruvanagon@..., Tom Dueck <glen_burnie@...> wrote:
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low voltage to crank sensor
i have 2.5 2007 imprezia engine in 84 westy. car ran great then went to limp home mode. sub dealer code read crankshaft sensor. replaced sensor no improvement. found that ecu was only putting out 1 volt to sensor. replaced ecu with spare still only 1 volt coming out of ecu instrad of five volts. i had recently hooked up rpm gauge but it had run fine with it connected. checked alternator its fine. any suggestions where to look next. bus had run perfect before had also swapped out vss just in case but was not the problem. need advice thanks henry
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Re: [Syncro] Syncro 's Tranny Pop out at 4th after rebuild
Daryl Christensen
Boon..Replace the 4th gear set and the 3/4 slider and generally the problem
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will go away...You can tweak the little springs on the detents, but its a temporary solution. Also if you have the little boot on the shift rod (long one from the front) sometimes the rear boot gets compresses and pushes it out of gear. Remove the boot or put some washers to move the little bracket forwards a bit. Daryl of AA Transaxle 425-788-4070 "On the cutting edge of Old technology" 86 Syncro Westy w/Turbo Zetec in the trunk 90 Doka Tristar w/2.5 Subie -----Original Message-----
From: Syncro@... [mailto:Syncro@...] On Behalf Of Hanniboon Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2012 3:07 AM To: Syncro@...; subaruvanagon@... Subject: [Syncro] Syncro 's Tranny Pop out at 4th after rebuild Hi All, First of all , sorry for my writing skill in English , I'm Thai. After 2nd of rebuilding my syncro's tranny, the 4th still pop-out. The 1st time of rebuilding was because the lever ( the one that has white ball head ) and the shifter axel. So dissembled then changed the axel, most of roller that available and syncromesh. Then assembled and put back to my van. After a short test run, the shift pop-out from 4th gear while driving , not immediately. So it needed to be dissembled again. The 2nd time of dissemble, we found that the 3 pins and spring wire of 3/4 sleev/hub were in wrong possition. So we put it back and assemble them back to my van. Unfortunately, it still pop-out. This time I drove for a month to learn popping characteristic. I've learn that it would pop-out when engine ran at high acceleration. Holding shifter by banjee cord would help but not so good. We put it out from my van and then we put the tranny to the "tranny rev'ter " as pic links below The 3phase electrical motor drive the 1:3 gear then drive the tranny. Put tranny to 4th position by manual then start the e-motor. Rev it up to 1200rpm then the tranny rev to 3600 rpm. No pop-out !!!!!!!! That must because the tranny has no load, no wheels attached. I think it would be the same result if it put some brake mechanical to tranny's end shaft. Here are the plan if the tester pop out : 1. It "must be" something inside that cause the popping. 2. I have the old , unusable syncro tranny from my friend. I'll drill some holes to old tranny's case to use them as special tools as describe in Brentley 's manual. The Jig for inspect shaft assembly. 3. My mechanic said it might because the new syncromech has thicker tapper. Is it possible? Sent from Boon's iPad2 ------------------------------------ Please note that the default "Reply" function will route your reply to the entire group. If you have a private message for a member you'll need to specifically address your message to them. If you would like to modify your subscription settings (including unsubscribing), visit: Rude or offensive language is not allowed on the Syncro list. Please try your best to resolve differences privately and keep them off the list. Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Syncro 's Tranny Pop out at 4th after rebuild
I have had this problem with at least 3 syncro transmissions. It seems the taper roller bearings at the end of both the mainshaft and countershaft get wear and allow excess play. This allows the two shafts to "push" out of proper alignment when the force of the two gears (4th gear set at the end of the shaft) mesh, making them "jump" out of gear when under load.
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With a tired transmission, you will observe the shift lever moves forward and back when driving in 4th gear depending on whether you are on the throttle or off the throttle. A tight fresh transmission will have no movement and a worn trans will have as much as 3" movement at the shift ball, all without touching the lever. You need to preload the taper bearings on the mainshaft and countershaft when assembling the transmission, and this is where a jig makes this possible. Too much preload will destroy things, and not enough will jump out of gear. This is a very simplistic explanation, but may help. -Donny ----- Original Message -----
From: "Hanniboon" <hanniboon@...> To: <Syncro@...>; <subaruvanagon@...> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2012 4:06 AM Subject: [subaruvanagon] Syncro 's Tranny Pop out at 4th after rebuild Hi All, |
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Re: hey - Spam
Hi Tom - Is this email referring to me? If so, why am I being deleted? All I ever do is read the messages, I don't even post.
Tom Dueck To: subaruvanagon@... From: tom@... Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 13:16:12 +0000 Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: hey - Spam Member will be informed and Deleted from group. Tom Moderator [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Syncro 's Tranny Pop out at 4th after rebuild
Hi All,
First of all , sorry for my writing skill in English , I'm Thai. After 2nd of rebuilding my syncro's tranny, the 4th still pop-out. The 1st time of rebuilding was because the lever ( the one that has white ball head ) and the shifter axel. So dissembled then changed the axel, most of roller that available and syncromesh. Then assembled and put back to my van. After a short test run, the shift pop-out from 4th gear while driving , not immediately. So it needed to be dissembled again. The 2nd time of dissemble, we found that the 3 pins and spring wire of 3/4 sleev/hub were in wrong possition. So we put it back and assemble them back to my van. Unfortunately, it still pop-out. This time I drove for a month to learn popping characteristic. I've learn that it would pop-out when engine ran at high acceleration. Holding shifter by banjee cord would help but not so good. We put it out from my van and then we put the tranny to the "tranny rev'ter " as pic links below The 3phase electrical motor drive the 1:3 gear then drive the tranny. Put tranny to 4th position by manual then start the e-motor. Rev it up to 1200rpm then the tranny rev to 3600 rpm. No pop-out !!!!!!!! That must because the tranny has no load, no wheels attached. I think it would be the same result if it put some brake mechanical to tranny's end shaft. Here are the plan if the tester pop out : 1. It "must be" something inside that cause the popping. 2. I have the old , unusable syncro tranny from my friend. I'll drill some holes to old tranny's case to use them as special tools as describe in Brentley 's manual. The Jig for inspect shaft assembly. 3. My mechanic said it might because the new syncromech has thicker tapper. Is it possible? Sent from Boon's iPad2 |
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Re: injector firing order
Scott Daniel - Turbovans
absolutely.
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it's Seqential EFI. each injector pair of wires must go to the correct injector at the correct cylinder. on the 2.2's I've reversed the engine harness on .. very easy ..only had to change 4 wires actually I think. On 5/9/2012 9:41 PM, luissenye wrote:
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Re: Late model low mileage engines from Gundies in WA state?
To all:
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You can use an 08 no problemo (if it's a Forester you can use the harness BUT with an Impeza ECM, DON'T use a Impreza harness!!! The pin position are all changed), but use an 06-07 Impreza harness!!! In 08 then made a small mod to the sub harness, the coolant temperature sender is now 2 pin (instead of 3)!!!! the computer send back to the cluster what his reading instead of a direct reading to the cluster. 3 pin coolant sender: 1 for the ECM and 1 for the cluster, 1 is ground 2 pin coolant sender: 1 goes to ECM and also goes from ECM to cluster, one is ground. Many way to cheat, one of the 3 pin can be directly sent to the cluster OR you can use an old 2.2L coolant sender WITH the 2 pin one for the cluster. Ok, it's so complicated that I will take pictures. Ben --- In subaruvanagon@..., "PaulGuzyk" <guzyk@...> wrote:
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Re: Late model low mileage engines from Gundies in WA state?
Paul, SO sorry, I just realize it was you!!!!!!!!!! Contact me in private please!!!!!!!
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--- In subaruvanagon@..., "PaulGuzyk" <guzyk@...> wrote:
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Re: Late model low mileage engines from Gundies in WA state?
08 are CAN-BUS, be very careful here.
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Are you ready to deal with anti thief system, digital speed sensor signal? Be VERY careful. Trust me on this one. You CAN use an 08 engine but not the FI wiring harness so easily. Ask me if I know, I'm dealing right now with an 08 XT turbo engine. I'm so deep in it, I could use some help but no one can help me, I'm probably the first doing one. Finally today we find a way to cheat the anti theft system. Yep, going to the root of the computer. 8-10 ohm... Ben --- In subaruvanagon@..., "PaulGuzyk" <guzyk@...> wrote:
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Re: Late model low mileage engines from Gundies in WA state?
Paul
I got my engine from there with all the bits needed for the conversion. Kirk from north Westy gets allot of engines from there. So yes they are very familiar with vanagon Subaru conversions. Cheers Mike Zwack M.S. (425)974.9607 On May 9, 2012, at 6:50 AM, "PaulGuzyk" <guzyk@...> wrote: I'm starting a conversion soon in Colorado. I plan on using an 08-10 low mileage 2.5 engine. I'm having a little trouble finding one locally at a decent price.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: Late model low mileage engines from Gundies in WA state?
Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Are those throttle-by-wire engines ?
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Given a choice.. I'd say a throttle cable engine is a nicer beast. generally, no junkyard is ever allowed to supply every single part and all of them undamaged. Scott www.turbovans.com On 5/9/2012 6:50 AM, PaulGuzyk wrote:
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Re: Late model low mileage engines from Gundies in WA state?
I'd suggest working with John Lemley from Gaston, Oregon. He's
familiar with the conversion and the necessary donor parts, has fair prices, and usually has a fair assortment of engines available. Google Laurel Auto & Body Shop Inc all the best, Brent -- Brent Weide Portland, Oregon www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/ |
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Late model low mileage engines from Gundies in WA state?
I'm starting a conversion soon in Colorado. I plan on using an 08-10 low mileage 2.5 engine. I'm having a little trouble finding one locally at a decent price.
On www.car-part.com I notice a bunch of engines for sale from a place called Gundies in WA state that are designated as "conversion" in their notes. Has anyone here bought an engine setup from Gundies? Did they supply ALL the Subie bits? How was the experience? |
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Conversion complete, a couple of Q's: High idle, vacuum routing
Hi all,
First I would like to thank everyone who helped me along the way here when I had questions. My install went well and the RMW kit was well worth the money. My engine is a 99 2.2 from a non outback legacy: The bastard year engine:) The engine fired right up, pulls very strong with no hesitations and simply runs fine, with the exception of a high idle. I do not have a tach but judging by the sound I am guessing I am at about 900rpm. It stays here and will not budge unless I undo the crankcase breather vacuum from the manifold, then it comes down. Things I have done: Throttle cable adjusted,lubed and works fine, TPS adjusted, the other plunger type thing that plugs into the throttle body cleaned, Throttle body cleaned. I was assured by RMW that the necessary connections were made to account for it being an ECU from an auto trans. The engine had approx 105K when I got it I heard it run and it idled perfectly. One big question I have if someone could tell me is the correct vacuum line plumbing routes. I have one of those little EGR small black solenoid looking units (that seems to do nothing?) I am confused if I have the lines right to and from that and the to the stock vanagon charcoal lines. Last has anyone found that the throttle bodies wear and allow too much air through just like the vanagons? I could see what I would call a very minimal amount of light around the butterfly when I cleand up the T body. any and all thought are much appreciated! Thanks! Todd. |
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Re: Exhaust by Vanaru
I fabbed both my conversions exhausts from mild steel tubing, 1st one was in 2002.
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No problems,one is 10 yrs old, but I do rub and spray them twice a year with peanut oil. Peanut oil somehow seems to glaze onto them. Kinda nasty, but works in Tennessee. --- In subaruvanagon@..., "HansAchter" <hansachter@...> wrote:
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Brent Weide
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