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Chris:
We had a similar experience with 3.3 headers. First set was way off. We exchanged that set for a second set which were also off but closer than the first set. It took a bit of wrangling but they were finally mated. It has been a couple of years and the van has been used sparingly but so far they have not cracked. Others have reported similar experiences with poor fit.
Craig

--- On Mon, 3/19/12, Robert Stevens <mtbiker62@...> wrote:

From: Robert Stevens <mtbiker62@...>
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Small Car SVX Stainless Header won't fit.
To: subaruvanagon@...
Date: Monday, March 19, 2012, 11:44 PM
















??











On Mar 19, 2012, at 10:02 PM, Christopher wrote:

I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are fine (ie. not warped or misshaped).

So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor that would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the first, manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I just happen to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion?

I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having them try to put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish up the wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I am very frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice on this header issue.

Thanks,

Chris

My suggestion is to get a refund from Small Car on the header that doesn't fit, that you've already paid for.

Then, as you have said, take your van to a shop that can make a complete header that the exhaust system

you have will bolt up to. Have them make it out of mild steel, then have that ceramic coated. Be sure to

know that there are fabricators that have been making headers out of a lot of materials, on the internet,

that can make a header for you.



I'd suggest avoiding stainless. The really good SS (I think it's called 321) is VERY expensive and not

a lot more durable than mild steel with the ceramic coating.



An example of one of the online vendors finished product:







I'd suggest talking with them about them or another vendor they recommend, making this same unit

out of mild steel if they can/will. My experience with SS headers on both Subaru 2.2 and 3.0 is that they eventually

crack in several places.



Just my $0.02



Bob



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are fine (ie. not warped or misshaped).

So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor that would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the first, manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I just happen to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion?

I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having them try to put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish up the wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I am very frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice on this header issue.

Thanks,

Chris

Thanks Tom. I will put all the info in one place-a good idea.



The engine and 5 spd were installed by SC so I don't have all of the info,
but here is what I have.



Engine-2009 EJ25

Model-Impreza.

Model of donor vehicle-- The engine is 09 Impreza, but don't know exact
model. The ECU that was installed is listed as an 07 Imprezza Outback AT
using a 09 harness.

ECU PN from donor AT vehicle--22611AM450 07 Impreza Outback AT

ECU PN from MT vehicle, replacement that solved the problems--22611AM440 07
Impreza Outback MT

Hello,
Thanks to everyone's advice so far. I will try and be more specific
about the problems I am experiencing so that it may aide in the diagnosis.

My van has sat out the winter because we get a lot of snow and the
heaters are mediocre. As it began to warm up and the roads cleared up
I started to go through it for a trip I had planned for Spring Break.
I drove it about 6 miles from my house and I noticed how the back
heater was working but the front was not. So I drove it another 6
miles and noticed that the Temp Gauge had not moved and I was still
not getting any heat in the front. When I got home I parked the van
and turned the engine off then suddenly the coolant system began
sucking fluid and I could hear the air being sucked in through the
rear heater core. When the van had cooled it was low on fluid so I
burped it "The Messy Way" pouring in coolant while holding the idle up
as the van sits at a incline so the engine was above the radiator.
When there seemed to be no more air coming out the radiator bleeder
and the van was not taking any more coolant I parked the van and let
it cool. (still the Temp Gauge never moved) I then came out to the van
pouring coolant out the sliding door and when I opened the door
noticed the coolant was running under my floor and I traced it back to
the rear heater core, I closed it to bleed the system but the valve
had failed. I replaced the Heater core and the valve and re-bled the
system. I then drove it about 5 miles again and became worried that
the temp gauge had still not moved so I pulled over and began feeling
the system and noticed that the coolant pipes running to the manifold
from the reservoir were hot but the thermostat pipe was cool and the
radiator to and return pipes were cool. I decided to remove the
thermostat and fill the system then drove home. This seemed to make no
difference. I decided that there had to be a air pocket causing a
vacuum within the system so I built a "Libby Bong" and proceeded to
burp the system again. I got some air out of the system but nothing
significant. I talked to my mechanic and he suggeste d I bring it to
him so he could empty the lines then put a vacuum on the lines then
add coolant to insure there was no air. He did this and it seemed to
work the radiator began to get warm but the temp gauge was still not
working and our thought was that the sensor is not working because it
is surrounded by air?
Is the sensor easy to replace or do I have to remove the intake manifold?

Van history:
The van had the head gaskets water pump and timing belt replaced two
years ago.
Drove 3000 miles during road trip
I had a total gas tank failure.
Van sat for a year
Drove 300 miles
Van sat out the winter
Current day

Thank you for any and all advice
Nick

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, Leon Korkin <korkwood@...>
wrote:

System bleeds itself automatically, always
it's designed this way
I was driving on dirt road in Baja recently, 6 miles from hiway and red
light started flashing.
Vanagon left trail of coolant behind, my return hose came off plastic
pipe(no barb, 2 clamp "solution")
and spilled most of coolant.Had plenty of water in container. It took
several refills but i just drove Vanagon untill it had enough

coolant in

tank
No "bleeding" and no problem
Leon

On 3/18/2012 4:42 PM, Kent or Jackie Ashton wrote:

You probably just need to bleed the system properly. A "Libby

Bong" is

one of the easiest ways I've seen.


With the bong filled, I believe the engine must be run up a little
(around 2000 RPM) to force the bubbles through the system. Works

for me.

-Kent

On Mar 18, 2012, at 11:56 AM, Francine wrote:

Hi,
I am returning to the forum and I was hoping to get some help. My

van is a 85 and has a ej22 2.2 and I had my rear seat heater core

fail

and around this time I got a air pocket in my van. I have been unable
to get the air out of the lines and think I have a bubble near the
engine temp. sensor in the manifold. My fill tank is on the right

side

of the engine. I have noticed that Small Car reverses the manifold

and

I was wondering if this is the best fix or if there is something I

can

do short term so I can drive the van before committing to rebuild my
coolant system.

Thanks
Nick



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Hi Dennis,
Good work Dennis - but it would be very helpful for others if you
summarized the following info for your conversion:
a) Engine - 2009 EJ25
b) Model of donor vehicle -
c) From A/T donor
d) ECU part # from donor - 22611-?????
e) M/T ECU part # that solved your problem - 22611-?????

Thanks for sharing your information,
Tom

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "dennis miller"
<bindu56@...> wrote:

I have posted before about difficulties with the throttle response

of my 09

2.5 NA in a 82 Westy diesel, 5spd, installed by SC. I have about

2.5K miles

on it now and have been unhappy with the way the throttle responds,

being

too much power in the first third, less in the second third and

almost no

new power in the last third. This made it difficult to drive

smoothly and

gave a very nonlinear feeling. Others have reported the same

difficulty with

late throttle-by-wire Systems, especially in off road driving. I was

gearing

up to do a complicated remapping and reprogramming of the ECU to try

to get

a more linear response.



But then I seem to have stumbled on a fix, at least for my system.

One thing

I like about TBW is the ease of installing Cruise control-no vacuum
actuators, cable or any of that. It's all done by the ECU thru the
electronic throttle. Someone has already figured all this out and

posted it

in Files. He had almost the same setup as me, and ran into the same
problem-his ECU was for an auto trans although he was running am MT

as I am.

And the CC couldn't be hooked up because the CEL was on all the time

due to

a code P0600, generated by the fact that the ECU is looking for a AT

control

computer that isn't there. This also prevents the CC from working

and makes

hooking up the CEL a waste of time. When I read his article in files

I went

and checked, and sure enough I had the same PN ECU, designed for an

AT and

throwing the same code. The fix is to get an MT ECU-just one number

in the

PN is different. Just one ECU wire has to be grounded (C15) (this is a
signal wire to tell the ECU that an MT is installed.) and all these

problems

are solved. I got one for $90 on ebay and installed it and found it

also has

a different throttle response more appropriate to an MT. The response is
linear all the way to full throttle now and it sure seems like I

have more

power. Problem solved!



All this makes perfect sense, that Subaru MT and AT would use different
throttle response MAPS. MT Subs would probably be jerky too if you

installed

an AT ECU.



The article in Files, with the PNs can be found here

ntrol/



Dennis

System bleeds itself automatically, always
it's designed this way
I was driving on dirt road in Baja recently, 6 miles from hiway and red
light started flashing.
Vanagon left trail of coolant behind, my return hose came off plastic
pipe(no barb, 2 clamp "solution")
and spilled most of coolant.Had plenty of water in container. It took
several refills but i just drove Vanagon untill it had enough coolant in
tank
No "bleeding" and no problem
Leon

On 3/18/2012 4:42 PM, Kent or Jackie Ashton wrote:

You probably just need to bleed the system properly. A "Libby Bong" is
one of the easiest ways I've seen.


With the bong filled, I believe the engine must be run up a little
(around 2000 RPM) to force the bubbles through the system. Works for me.
-Kent

On Mar 18, 2012, at 11:56 AM, Francine wrote:

Hi,
I am returning to the forum and I was hoping to get some help. My

van is a 85 and has a ej22 2.2 and I had my rear seat heater core fail
and around this time I got a air pocket in my van. I have been unable
to get the air out of the lines and think I have a bubble near the
engine temp. sensor in the manifold. My fill tank is on the right side
of the engine. I have noticed that Small Car reverses the manifold and
I was wondering if this is the best fix or if there is something I can
do short term so I can drive the van before committing to rebuild my
coolant system.

Thanks
Nick



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have posted before about difficulties with the throttle response of my 09
2.5 NA in a 82 Westy diesel, 5spd, installed by SC. I have about 2.5K miles
on it now and have been unhappy with the way the throttle responds, being
too much power in the first third, less in the second third and almost no
new power in the last third. This made it difficult to drive smoothly and
gave a very nonlinear feeling. Others have reported the same difficulty with
late throttle-by-wire Systems, especially in off road driving. I was gearing
up to do a complicated remapping and reprogramming of the ECU to try to get
a more linear response.



But then I seem to have stumbled on a fix, at least for my system. One thing
I like about TBW is the ease of installing Cruise control-no vacuum
actuators, cable or any of that. It's all done by the ECU thru the
electronic throttle. Someone has already figured all this out and posted it
in Files. He had almost the same setup as me, and ran into the same
problem-his ECU was for an auto trans although he was running am MT as I am.
And the CC couldn't be hooked up because the CEL was on all the time due to
a code P0600, generated by the fact that the ECU is looking for a AT control
computer that isn't there. This also prevents the CC from working and makes
hooking up the CEL a waste of time. When I read his article in files I went
and checked, and sure enough I had the same PN ECU, designed for an AT and
throwing the same code. The fix is to get an MT ECU-just one number in the
PN is different. Just one ECU wire has to be grounded (C15) (this is a
signal wire to tell the ECU that an MT is installed.) and all these problems
are solved. I got one for $90 on ebay and installed it and found it also has
a different throttle response more appropriate to an MT. The response is
linear all the way to full throttle now and it sure seems like I have more
power. Problem solved!



All this makes perfect sense, that Subaru MT and AT would use different
throttle response MAPS. MT Subs would probably be jerky too if you installed
an AT ECU.



The article in Files, with the PNs can be found here

ntrol/



Dennis



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The 10 mm x 1 mm tap needs a 9 mm drill bit.

On Sun, Mar 18, 2012 at 8:33 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans<
ScottDaniel@...> wrote:

we drill and tap the subaru threads to the vw temp sender size threads.

forget what that is right now ..
but 'drill and tap'.


On 3/18/2012 7:18 PM, Christopher wrote:

I am trying to install the vw temp sender (049-919-501) in the SVX
coolant manifold. It appears that the threads are different (fine
thread on the original SVX and course thread on the VW unit).

Can anyone help with this. I think I need to find an adapter, but I
would like to find out how everyone else with an SVX Vanagon has dealt
with this problem.

Thanks,

Chris