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OK here's the trick I used. This grease rec by SB comes in a 3 oz tube, its called Super Lube, Grease, from Permatex, item no. 82325. This what SB will send you for about 15$, is less than 4$ from Fastenal Co. www.fastenal.com. I purchased a chainsaw grease lub gun, a small plastic hypodermic type injector device readily available at most Home Depot like stores in the chainsaw dept. Its for greasing the rachet at the end of a chainsaw bar. This injector has a small plastic tip that fits nicely into the hole on the backgrear shaft and main pulley shaft. You do have to remove the grease that comes in the injector. Then fill the injector from the 3 oz tube and inject it into the hole. Have to admit I like the grease fitting adaptor device, but you would have to purchase a grease cartrige of the Super lube, this is available from Fastenal also. Or I guess you could get one of those small grease guns. I also now have found type A, B and C lub oils at about $7+/gal vs 7.50/Qt from SB. big tom

OK, Here is what I think works as far as SB oils, per my research into SUS viscosity and Mobil and Shell products that cross walk to the SB rec SUS viscosity Type A - Use Velocite 10, MSC pp 1916 item no. 60002136, $10.65/gal, MSC Supply, http://www.mscdirect.com/default.htm Type B- Turbine Oil part no. 14155K52 SUS 155 @ 100 F, $7.60/gal, Mc Master Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ Type C - Multipurpose Machine Oil, 1024K17, SUS 325 @ 100 F, $8.55/gal, McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ for way oil use Way Lub 1017K11 SUS 325 @ 100 F, 8.55/gal, McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ If my 13" burns up in the next several mos I will be sure to post a msg to this effect. but think I am OK

Wow... nice job! I wish I had a Digital camera. A friend of mine has a scanner, so if I can find some decent pictures of SB#55680 (1934), I'll see if I can get them posted. She's decked out in Tremclad Grey (which seems to be very close to SB) and Tremclad "Wild Raspberry" (which means deep burgundy). This lathe predates the "Workshop" series and is much heavier. My grandfather (Ray) bought it brand new, factory direct, shipped out of Indiana Nov. 13/ 1934. She look's pretty again, but parts of her are pretty tired too. Anyone have a tailstock? It's "nose down" by about 10-15 thou with the spindle fully retracted, worse when extended, and the spindle rattles in the housing with the spindle lock ON. I'm about ready to make a new, oversized spindle, remove the leveling shims(NOT original... my father put them there before I got it) and rebore the housing from the headstock with a "poor man's boring head". Any suggestions before I pass the point of no return?

I have noticed a lot of reference to Type A, B and C lubricants. My lubrication chart does not reference this information. It only shows the following three viscosities. 100 - Spindle Bearing and Apron Reserve 150 - 240 - Gearbox, Counter shaft 240 - 500 - Everything else. I purchased some Turbine Oil Which I do believe falls into the 240-500 viscosity range. Are this viscosity's refer to the A B C?

I get a .175 taper cut on the lathe What should I do.Brett

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Could someone please reply to this to let me know if I am getting through... thank you.

Based upon a combination of Tom Miller's recommendations and my laziness, I ordered ALL my lube oil and grease from McMaster-Carr. Here's what I got: Teflon Grease: Synthetic Grease With PTFE 3-oz Tube, Nlgi #2, Translucent White, 1378K31, $4.98 "Super Lube" Type A Spindle Oil: Mobil Velocite #10 (107 SUS), 1 Gal, 2158K24, $10.44 Type B Gearbox Oil: Turbine Oil (215 SUS), 1 Gal, 14155K62, $8.02 Type C Screw/Gear Oil: Multi-purpose machine oil (325 SUS), 1 Gal, 1024K17, $8.02 Also, Way Oil: Way Lubricants (325 SUS), 1 Gal, 1017K11 $8.44 I decided to try the "Way Oil" even though it is the same SUS (325) as type C, and even though that's all SB calls for. It says it is supposed to be tacky and cling to the surfaces better. We'll see. Paul R. Hvidston ACKSYS Engineering Upland, CA

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Subject: Pic's of my Turret Tool Post I Made for my 9" SB I have also attached a picture of my reconditioned lathe on my new bench ready to go. And my little milling machine I picked up for $400.00. Enjoy Jim

Hi I am new to this group and I just wanted to say hello and introduce myself. I own a Southbend Fourteen for about two years now and most of my work centers around making various attachments, making parts for the kids camaro next door, and whatever else I come up with. I am looking for a taper attachment for my machine and would appreciate any leads. thanks again ray

If you have tried to grease the Spindle Pulley shaft and Backgear shaft on your SB, you will find two 1/4" x 20 plugs which you need to remove to fill with grease. There is no grease nipple to attach your grease so it make it very hard to do. I made a grease fitting adapter by drilling a 1/8" hole through a 1/4" x 20 UNC Hex head bolt and silver soldiering a standard grease nipple to the end. If you do not have torches you can drill and tap the grease fitting into the end of the bolt. To use, just remove the grease plugs and screw in your adapter. Pump full of grease and remove. Works Great. See picture of my adapter. Hope this helps. Jim Visit my Genealogy Home Page. http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/kestrel/gene.html Researching: Bennett,Burry,Taylor,White. Other Names: Gibbons,Gibson,Kelly,Randel,Moore. to name a few.

Anyone else out there w/ an 'old style' 14-1/2" w/ 2-1/4x6 spindle? The model number would be 183-B, C, D, or G (letter varies based on bed length). I'm looking for a collet closer assembly to fit - handwheel, tube, closer, spindle nose cap. I've already got the proper 4C collets. A follower rest might be nice, too. Thanks, Phil

Hi: Just joined your little group, and new to the "how to" so hopefully this comes out. Guess will just post a pic and a short "who am I". Bought this little lathe "many" years ago at an estate sale, all in pieces. The restoration is still going on and probably will till the end. It was a bench model, Joe at Plaza machinery in Vermont (nice folks to do business with) had a cabinet, I built the wood draws inside, etc, etc. Been turning for a few years, I'm 50, but by no means an expert. Do an odd job now and again, would like to do more to support my habit. Current project is the 5c collect chuck that was listed in the HSM (I think it was) and hopefully will have completed in a few more days. Anyone out there from southeast TX. Carl

Yes it is a "V" belt drive, which will soon be retrofitted with a 10 Craftsman horizontal drive unit. It seems to work quite nicely, although it does have one draw back, which will I will remedy soon. Unfortunately, SB did not give much thought into this type of drive unit, mine is of the older style, no bushings/bearings, etc, and was worn when I got it, is wearing out, and finally have decided to do something about it. So, have looked at several designs from logan, atlas, craftsman, and was going to make my own, but recently was able to pick up a complete craftsman drive unit off ebay. There drive units, are, or seem to have a much more functional design approach to them. Will soon find out. Anyone that is reading this, and has the same "V" belt drive unit (SB), I could use the diameters of the three pulleys, I'm sure the ones on the craftsman unit are not of the appropriate size, it would save me a lot of time in figuring it out, mathematically based on the mtr pulley and the pulleys on the headstock spindle and spindle speeds. The lever operated turret was a stroke of luck, fished it out of a scrap metal barrel, and the guy said "yeah, I'm tired of stubbing my toes on that @#$ thing, etc, etc," it cleaned up real nice and it is still in the tooling up phase (always something to come along and divert one's attention). The bed length is 4', the original was 4-1/2', but was worn out, and picked up the 4' years ago. As for the 5c collet chuck, this is a real nice project and considering the commercial ones at $250 plus, I figured why not. In the article, there are some very close tolerances to maintain, but patience will be rewarded with accuracy. Oh, the little tool block on the compound, homemade aloris piston type, it was fun to make. Sure beats the old rocker, but did not throw the old holders away, now and again there's a need. Someday will up grade to one of the less expensive wedge type, someday. Have a great day. Carl

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the southbendlathe group. File : /Beltadj.jpg Uploaded by : jwtaylor61@... Description : Belt Adjustment for 9" SB You can access this file at the URL http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/files/Beltadj.jpg To learn more about eGroups file sharing, please visit http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files Regards, jwtaylor61@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the southbendlathe group. File : /Oiling.jpg Uploaded by : jwtaylor61@... Description : Oiling Chart for 9" SB You can access this file at the URL http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/files/Oiling.jpg To learn more about eGroups file sharing, please visit http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files Regards, jwtaylor61@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms

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Learned this one from an old timer. Four pieces of drill rods about 2 to 3 inches long, diameter big enough to be taller than the ways, but not so big to be cradled by the ways. Two at the headstock, and two at the tailstock, place level on the rods. Reasoning on this is - older lathes with non-hardened ways wear on the ways, the use of the drill rods - is on the flat surface that has little or no wear. Been using it, works for me. Carl