Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
I don’t know if the squeeze handle 10H is the same for the 10L . Dave
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
thanks ,?
I have a squeeze hand that I bought , I needed the type that ya
pull on the handle to move , I always get the 2 10" lathe mdl#'s
mixed up .
so if anyone needs a squeeze handle reverse tumbler & has a
pull type?? let's trade .
thanks
animal
On 4/2/25 10:34 AM, firefite Roenigk
via groups.io wrote:
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
If you don't find someone else who needs them worse, I could use them if they'll fit a 1941 Heavy 10L.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Wednesday, April 2, 2025 at 09:51:58 AM CDT, Andrei via groups.io <calciu1@...> wrote:
Guys, I have some SB heavy 10 parts that I don't need. They weigh about 15 pounds, give or take a little.?
I can post a picture later today, when i get back from work.?
The price is $0.00 but you have to cover the shipping from 22015 to wherever you are.?
What are you asking for it?
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
$1000.00
David Roenigk 9086 West Windsor Drive Olmsted Falls, Ohio 44138 I’m going to live forever…..So far so good firefite@...
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On Apr 2, 2025, at 10:42?AM, sapark123321 via groups.io <sapark123321@...> wrote:
What are you asking for it?
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
Guys, I have some SB heavy 10 parts that I don't need. They weigh about 15 pounds, give or take a little.?
I can post a picture later today, when i get back from work.?
The price is $0.00 but you have to cover the shipping from 22015 to wherever you are.?
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What are you asking for it?
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
What are you asking for it?
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
??? does that have the squeeze lever reverse tumbler or the pull
handle reverse tumbler ?
thanks
animal
On 4/1/25 1:35 PM, firefite Roenigk via
groups.io wrote:
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I have a perfectly good 10H, well to get it out of the
basement, I got a larger lathe, It’s no going in the basement. I
had to take it all apart. I’m selling all Or parts of it. Dave
I will ship the parts if you pay for the shipping. ?Olmsted
Falls Ohio 44138
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Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
I have a perfectly good 10H, well to get it out of the basement, I got a larger lathe, It’s no going in the basement. I had to take it all apart. I’m selling all Or parts of it. Dave
I will ship the parts if you pay for the shipping. ?Olmsted Falls Ohio 44138
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Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
I was just coming around to that point of view.?
?
Thanks, Don
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Thank you, Andrei. My sentiments, exactly!
packard bill
On Tuesday, April 1, 2025 at 11:44:14 AM EDT, Andrei via groups.io <calciu1@...> wrote:
Guys, just cut the damn belt. You can buy a new one for 40-50 bucks.?
There is no need to torture yourself and your machine for something that can be resolved with a swipe of a knife and, later, with a little glue at the skivvied ends of the belt.
I just took a look at mine ( cabinet mount with the side panel removed at present) and it certainly looks like it should be possible in theory. I see direct access to the taper pin that secures the large drive pulley to the shaft - though it
would require care to hammer it out without hitting the cabinet…. The cone pulley has two set screws, and I recall stoning the area where they contacted the shaft after I had everything apart. My bearings had both seized on the shaft and required considerable
persuasion to get them to release and then slide off the shaft. Note the shaft has ‘steps’ on both ends for the bearing to seat against. The taper pin was cooperative for once, then I ended up using heat (torch) on the big drive pulley (careful, it’s cast
iron…) and ice on the shaft, along with a wheel puller to get that pulley off. Then I managed to persuade the bearings out of the frame by removing the bolt-on keepers and forcefully tapping the shaft toward the tail stock end of the lathe. Once it came out
of the frame, I used a wheel puller (it was tight) to pull the right end bearing from the shaft. I ended up ruining both bearings by forcing them off the shaft, but no damage to the shaft. The cone pulley came off more easily than expected using a bigger wheel
puller. I had to clean up some burrs and rust spots on the shaft once it was all apart but it all cleaned up nicely. FWIW, I think I’d try it without removing the belt, but worst case, you can always cut the belt and drop the cone pulley unit so you have room
to work…
On Mar 31, 2025, at 10:55?AM, clive_foster@... via groups.io <clive_foster.t21@...> wrote:
?
Don
?
Sounds like you got about as far, or maybe a bit further, than I did over 20 years ago before admitting defeat and cutting the belt.
?
Burred over and damaged set-screw holes were definitely a feature needing care to get things apart without significant damage and requiring thoughtful re-working to prevent a repeat.
?
If I recall correctly with the whole unit removed I was able to pull the bearings with the shaft sort of in place then tilt and slide to remove it so I could operate on the pulley mount area to de-burr et al.
?
Mine was on the final version of the sheet metal box stand. I'd already pulled the centre panel to fit shelves, doors and drawers for storage. Before re-installation I added a couple of extra holes, with covers, so everything could be re-assembled in place.
With everything nicely prepped and clean it all went back together very easily.
?
Clive
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Guys, just cut the damn belt. You can buy a new one for 40-50 bucks.?
There is no need to torture yourself and your machine for something that can be resolved with a swipe of a knife and, later, with a little glue at the skivvied ends of the belt.
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Show quoted text
I just took a look at mine ( cabinet mount with the side panel removed at present) and it certainly looks like it should be possible in theory. I see direct access to the taper pin that secures the large drive pulley to the shaft - though it
would require care to hammer it out without hitting the cabinet…. The cone pulley has two set screws, and I recall stoning the area where they contacted the shaft after I had everything apart. My bearings had both seized on the shaft and required considerable
persuasion to get them to release and then slide off the shaft. Note the shaft has ‘steps’ on both ends for the bearing to seat against. The taper pin was cooperative for once, then I ended up using heat (torch) on the big drive pulley (careful, it’s cast
iron…) and ice on the shaft, along with a wheel puller to get that pulley off. Then I managed to persuade the bearings out of the frame by removing the bolt-on keepers and forcefully tapping the shaft toward the tail stock end of the lathe. Once it came out
of the frame, I used a wheel puller (it was tight) to pull the right end bearing from the shaft. I ended up ruining both bearings by forcing them off the shaft, but no damage to the shaft. The cone pulley came off more easily than expected using a bigger wheel
puller. I had to clean up some burrs and rust spots on the shaft once it was all apart but it all cleaned up nicely. FWIW, I think I’d try it without removing the belt, but worst case, you can always cut the belt and drop the cone pulley unit so you have room
to work…
On Mar 31, 2025, at 10:55?AM, clive_foster@... via groups.io <clive_foster.t21@...> wrote:
?
Don
?
Sounds like you got about as far, or maybe a bit further, than I did over 20 years ago before admitting defeat and cutting the belt.
?
Burred over and damaged set-screw holes were definitely a feature needing care to get things apart without significant damage and requiring thoughtful re-working to prevent a repeat.
?
If I recall correctly with the whole unit removed I was able to pull the bearings with the shaft sort of in place then tilt and slide to remove it so I could operate on the pulley mount area to de-burr et al.
?
Mine was on the final version of the sheet metal box stand. I'd already pulled the centre panel to fit shelves, doors and drawers for storage. Before re-installation I added a couple of extra holes, with covers, so everything could be re-assembled in place.
With everything nicely prepped and clean it all went back together very easily.
?
Clive
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
I just took a look at mine ( cabinet mount with the side panel removed at present) and it certainly looks like it should be possible in theory. I see direct access to the taper pin that secures the large drive pulley to the shaft - though it would require care to hammer it out without hitting the cabinet…. The cone pulley has two set screws, and I recall stoning the area where they contacted the shaft after I had everything apart. My bearings had both seized on the shaft and required considerable persuasion to get them to release and then slide off the shaft. Note the shaft has ‘steps’ on both ends for the bearing to seat against. The taper pin was cooperative for once, then I ended up using heat (torch) on the big drive pulley (careful, it’s cast iron…) and ice on the shaft, along with a wheel puller to get that pulley off. Then I managed to persuade the bearings out of the frame by removing the bolt-on keepers and forcefully tapping the shaft toward the tail stock end of the lathe. Once it came out of the frame, I used a wheel puller (it was tight) to pull the right end bearing from the shaft. I ended up ruining both bearings by forcing them off the shaft, but no damage to the shaft. The cone pulley came off more easily than expected using a bigger wheel puller. I had to clean up some burrs and rust spots on the shaft once it was all apart but it all cleaned up nicely. FWIW, I think I’d try it without removing the belt, but worst case, you can always cut the belt and drop the cone pulley unit so you have room to work…
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Show quoted text
On Mar 31, 2025, at 10:55?AM, clive_foster@... via groups.io <clive_foster.t21@...> wrote:
? Don
?
Sounds like you got about as far, or maybe a bit further, than I did over 20 years ago before admitting defeat and cutting the belt.
?
Burred over and damaged set-screw holes were definitely a feature needing care to get things apart without significant damage and requiring thoughtful re-working to prevent a repeat.
?
If I recall correctly with the whole unit removed I was able to pull the bearings with the shaft sort of in place then tilt and slide to remove it so I could operate on the pulley mount area to de-burr et al.
?
Mine was on the final version of the sheet metal box stand. I'd already pulled the centre panel to fit shelves, doors and drawers for storage. Before re-installation I added a couple of extra holes, with covers, so everything could be re-assembled in place. With everything nicely prepped and clean it all went back together very easily.
?
Clive
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Don
?
Sounds like you got about as far, or maybe a bit further, than I did over 20 years ago before admitting defeat and cutting the belt.
?
Burred over and damaged set-screw holes were definitely a feature needing care to get things apart without significant damage and requiring thoughtful re-working to prevent a repeat.
?
If I recall correctly with the whole unit removed I was able to pull the bearings with the shaft sort of in place then tilt and slide to remove it so I could operate on the pulley mount area to de-burr et al.
?
Mine was on the final version of the sheet metal box stand. I'd already pulled the centre panel to fit shelves, doors and drawers for storage. Before re-installation I added a couple of extra holes, with covers, so everything could be re-assembled in place. With everything nicely prepped and clean it all went back together very easily.
?
Clive
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
maybe... I think you may be able to do something if you don't try
to take the belt off. If you can get enough belt slack to get the
spindle out with out removing the belt you may be able to do
something.
On 3/30/25 19:02, Davis Johnson wrote:
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The belt, while running in forward, goes up the rear side of
the spindle pulley,? down the front side of the pulley. If there
there are separate passages through all that cast iron for the
two directions you can't do it.
On 3/30/25 17:03, Don Verdiani via
groups.io wrote:
Ok everyone, now I could use some help. I determined that
the right-side bearing is failing using a stethoscope. I need
to talk with someone who has replaced the bearings on a Heavy
10 UMD Cone Pulley shaft. I really want to save my perfectly
good polymer drive belt. It looks like the job can be done in
place. So far, I have:
- Pulled the motor drive belt.
- Dropped the motor/pulley shaft as far down as it will go.
The motor hits the back of the stand casting.
- Removed the nut and lock nut from the right end of the
shaft.
- Removed all six machine screws holding the retain rings.
- Removed the cone pulley set screws.
- Cleaned the pully shaft, sprayed everything with Liquid
Wrench
So, at the moment:
- The cone pulley is sort-of free on the shaft. Best guess
is that there are burrs on the shaft where the set screws
beat it up. They had loosened up, maybe because of the
bearing failure/vibration, which is part of the reason I'm
doing this.
- The bearing retaining rings are free.
- I have not been able to remove the collar from the
right-hand end of the shaft.
- The left-side pulley (motor drive) taper pin is giving me
a hard time. It's not out yet. If the shaft can be removed
with the carrier in place, it will clear the UMD housing.
- Dead-blow persuasion on the left-side pulley is NOT moving
the bearings. Again, I'm being gentle
- There is no way to get a dead-blow hammer on the right end
with the motor still in place.
Replacing the belt is actually not a big, or expensive,
deal. Now it's just the principle of the thing. Is what I'm
trying to do possible? It looks like if I can figure out how
to drive the shaft from right to left and pop the bearing out,
this will work. Thoughts/experience?
?
One thing for sure, when it goes back together, the six
machine screws are going to be socket head cap screws.
?
Don Verdiani
Outside Philadelphia, PA
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
The belt, while running in forward, goes up the rear side of the
spindle pulley,? down the front side of the pulley. If there there
are separate passages through all that cast iron for the two
directions you can't do it.
On 3/30/25 17:03, Don Verdiani via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Ok everyone, now I could use some help. I determined that the
right-side bearing is failing using a stethoscope. I need to
talk with someone who has replaced the bearings on a Heavy 10
UMD Cone Pulley shaft. I really want to save my perfectly good
polymer drive belt. It looks like the job can be done in place.
So far, I have:
- Pulled the motor drive belt.
- Dropped the motor/pulley shaft as far down as it will go.
The motor hits the back of the stand casting.
- Removed the nut and lock nut from the right end of the
shaft.
- Removed all six machine screws holding the retaining rings.
- Removed the cone pulley set screws.
- Cleaned the pully shaft, sprayed everything with Liquid
Wrench
So, at the moment:
- The cone pulley is sort-of free on the shaft. Best guess is
that there are burrs on the shaft where the set screws beat it
up. They had loosened up, maybe because of the bearing
failure/vibration, which is part of the reason I'm doing this.
- The bearing retaining rings are free.
- I have not been able to remove the collar from the
right-hand end of the shaft.
- The left-side pulley (motor drive) taper pin is giving me a
hard time. It's not out yet. If the shaft can be removed with
the carrier in place, it will clear the UMD housing.
- Dead-blow persuasion on the left-side pulley is NOT moving
the bearings. Again, I'm being gentle
- There is no way to get a dead-blow hammer on the right end
with the motor still in place.
Replacing the belt is actually not a big, or expensive, deal.
Now it's just the principle of the thing. Is what I'm trying to
do possible? It looks like if I can figure out how to drive the
shaft from right to left and pop the bearing out, this will
work. Thoughts/experience?
?
One thing for sure, when it goes back together, the six
machine screws are going to be socket head cap screws.
?
Don Verdiani
Outside Philadelphia, PA
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Ok everyone, now I could use some help. I determined that the right-side bearing is failing using a stethoscope. I need to talk with someone who has replaced the bearings on a Heavy 10 UMD Cone Pulley shaft. I really want to save my perfectly good polymer drive belt. It looks like the job can be done in place. So far, I have:
- Pulled the motor drive belt.
- Dropped the motor/pulley shaft as far down as it will go. The motor hits the back of the stand casting.
- Removed the nut and lock nut from the right end of the shaft.
- Removed all six machine screws holding the retaining rings.
- Removed the cone pulley set screws.
- Cleaned the pully shaft, sprayed everything with Liquid Wrench
So, at the moment:
- The cone pulley is sort-of free on the shaft. Best guess is that there are burrs on the shaft where the set screws beat it up. They had loosened up, maybe because of the bearing failure/vibration, which is part of the reason I'm doing this.
- The bearing retaining rings are free.
- I have not been able to remove the collar from the right-hand end of the shaft.
- The left-side pulley (motor drive) taper pin is giving me a hard time. It's not out yet. If the shaft can be removed with the carrier in place, it will clear the UMD housing.
- Dead-blow persuasion on the left-side pulley is NOT moving the bearings. Again, I'm being gentle
- There is no way to get a dead-blow hammer on the right end with the motor still in place.
Replacing the belt is actually not a big, or expensive, deal. Now it's just the principle of the thing. Is what I'm trying to do possible? It looks like if I can figure out how to drive the shaft from right to left and pop the bearing out, this will work. Thoughts/experience?
?
One thing for sure, when it goes back together, the six machine screws are going to be socket head cap screws.
?
Don Verdiani
Outside Philadelphia, PA
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
A Guy on YouTube named WINKEY, is
offering belting and glue, maybe he can offer advice and glue?
----? ??? Click it
This same guy is on a 4x6 bandsaw users
group
His real name is MARK
You can also search "Flat Belt" on
YouTube ---- ??? Click it
Good Luck!
On 3/25/2025 5:52 PM, Don Verdiani via
groups.io wrote:
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It’s a
polymer belt, but that’s an interesting thought. I’ll check
my notes. Probably been 20 years since I put it on
?.
?
Don
?
?
If it
was glued with hide glue can it be loosened with steam
or water and then reglued later?
On
Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 02:08:29 PM CDT, Don
Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...>
wrote:
Sorry,
skived and glued belt. I'd rather not cut it,
if there is a way to change out the right-side
bearing leaving it whole.
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
It’s a polymer belt, but that’s an interesting thought. I’ll check my notes. Probably been 20 years since I put it on
?.
?
Don
?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of rlm_mcv via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2025 4:52 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
?
If it was glued with hide glue can it be loosened with steam or water and then reglued later?
On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 02:08:29 PM CDT, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:
Sorry, skived and glued belt. I'd rather not cut it, if there is a way to change out the right-side bearing leaving it whole.
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
If it was glued with hide glue can it be loosened with steam or water and then reglued later?
On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 02:08:29 PM CDT, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:
Sorry, skived and glued belt. I'd rather not cut it, if there is a way to change out the right-side bearing leaving it whole.
?
Don
|
firefite Roenigk
Bill in OKC too