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I dug up this old project up. I had to modify it to include the pictures. Originally they were on photo bucket. I thought it might be of interest. Hope it comes through. Jim B. Dr. James A Benjamin 1629 Riverview Drive. Apt 416 Deerfield Beach, FL 33441 -- Jim B

A local feller has this for sale for 200. Says it opens 6" and weighs 70#. Anyone know what model it is and if it's a good deal?

The topic of getting or making T-nuts to fit QC and block type toolposts is a hardy perennial on forums and internet chat sites. Reference to the Tooling Dimensions table in "How to Run a Lathe" will show that both sections of the compound Tee slot are nicely sized to accept standard steel bar sections. Two short lengths of appropriate sized bar can easily be screwed and glued together to make a proper full length T-nut that is a very nice fit in the slot. You may need to do a little scraping inside to clear accumulated grot and oil varnish. Possibly with added profanity. Many years ago when I made several for the pair of 9" and Heavy 10 lathes I once owned I used a pair of countersunk M6 socket hex screws and some sort of Loctite structural adhesive to do the gluing bit. Either M10 or M12 thread on the stud, sorry can't recall which. High strength loctite on all threads of course. Back in those days I used several 4 way toolpost blocks as a poor boys QC system. Made the blocks by similar screwing and gluing methods from stock plate and bar sections. Alloy was fine for the centre bit. Each block got its own T-nut, stud and tightening lever so swopping was simple matter of half a turn and side out. In retrospect 2 slot blocks would have been just as effective. A fully loaded 4 slot has serious porcupine properties! Disadvantage of simple block posts is the need to shim tools to centre height. As a Brit I can cope just fine with such things. A quick contemplation of relative costs of a QC system to mine in those, pre cheap import days, rapidly resolved any mild resentment. Maybe a decade ago when my last Southbend, the Heavy 10, had been gone for almost as long, it occurred to me that the swopping block system meant I could have simply measured tool heights on the bench with simple jig. It may be useful to review the whole T-nut situation. Common advice is to modify what the supplier or make your own from scratch. For the inexperienced making and modifying is harder than it sounds. The two lips must be exactly co-planar if things are to hold properly. If they aren't the slot lips will be distorted and soon things will not hold. An oft ignored detail is that any decent toolpost will have a recess in the centre so the gripping forces are applied towards the outer sides of the post giving decent mechanical advantage. Primarily essential for lathes having a fixed stud where, over time, the centre of the slide around the stud will be pulled up under tightening stresses so only a narrow ring around the stud would actually grip properly on a flat bottom tool post. Common palliative advice is a thin card, pure aluminium or soft copper washer. These compress under stress enough to mostly spread the load. Similar distortions happen with the more familiar, to SouthBend users, T- slotted compound. The top of the T-slot in the compound of my big P&W Model B was spectacularly distorted by previous owners using a T nut barely bigger than the recess in the base of the Dickson QC post. Resorting to ever longer spanners seemingly obscured the problem. The one in the swarf tray was over 2 ft long. I needed my 4 ft cheater bar to loosen the top nut. Yikes! In my view the T-nut should extend over the full length of the slot in the compound ensuring all loads are properly distributed minimising the chance of distortion and holding the toolpost firmly without resorting to over tightening and drastic sized spanners. This assumes the top of the toolpost is truly flat. Naturally this is something you will have checked and attended to before putting a new-to-me lathe into service. With the P&W T-slot top now properly flat and a full length T-nut fitted (P&W T-slots are also bar stock size) a moderate pull on a simple tube spanner with a pair of short handles, barely a handspan wide, extending each side keeps the post stable under even the heaviest of cuts. Hope this helps. Clive

I need to cut a 0.190" wide slot, 0.300" deep in a ~1.75" wide chunk of steel, and it's a part for my milling machine, so I can't do it on the mill. I don't think the tolerances are particularly tight, but I'd like it to be as close as I can reasonably get it to the part I'm replacing. Anyway, this is the setup I'm thinking of using -- setting the height relative to the spindle with either adjustable parallels, gauge blocks, machinist screws, or some other form of shims / spacers. I'm interested in hearing other suggestions -- I may just use some HSS toolbits as guides and do it with a file (likely pre-cutting some kerfs with a bandsaw). My test cuts last night were pretty slow (0.015" DOC, top speed on the lathe, and feeding by hand at about 0.5" per minute), I don't think I can run the spindle fast enough for the 3/16" endmill I'd need to use, but maybe I can rough it out with files / saws and do the finish cuts this way. Maybe I should be doing a series of plunge cuts, though? How much longitudinal force can I put on an endmill in a 4-jaw? Here's a link to a video that may better show the setup: https://photos.app.goo.gl/grCbvUpZ27K1sVdG9 Thanks! --Rogan

I forgot do I want a tumbler off a 10L or a Heavy 10. WIll an of these fit my 9A ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/404165385122?hash=item5e1a225ba2:g:UjMAAOSw-h9j7Pxt&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsN84OgK9Ed%2FfJqVYgwLtmJ6C%2Bk5FQmqxi%2FCwz52mGwgURtzo0025f2%2B4TzMJWq2qvJ8P5kjxq0W7oInFCe2xOmt0OqCXQo16SjiX3ABnGpUyhgVSCSGYN0ojn2Nl%2BAyQ69s5WRm4k53cZDKAd6bPvdHu16EUQ0nqaXmCSJr2oDuVTk3Od9QvrZzcuagL%2FwcduO3WQO1MU3FBM9gf74PMIv8QoHW5q%2BSQe3TdBuWpYmXH%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-LhtvrKYQ https://www.ebay.com/itm/404159710017?hash=item5e19cbc341:g:mZQAAOSwCtNj28rA https://www.ebay.com/itm/165108164233?hash=item267136a689:g:qIMAAOSwYT1hWzpr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsCikfol70Nv%2BjI7WN%2BzaMvmh%2B85eUsi05GdIHz75wsQ7iAAOaA0H0EwMDXqLNxJHtel42yJLK5S9S635IjQG6WjwEtV1vX4RN4ybIm%2FIwDahcH0IePzKjT6mGP0ijg86W8Gtb7rlooBP%2BBo2w2CC9PKyQyKzGEuFHMBHIfyqh1mg9wOHy4%2FmPPIKK0SP82zlsvmJz4Q5c4MJz%2B8CFRvbz2tY7Zs7GP5sPZUupq1bY0rg%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-ThtvrKYQ thanks animal

Hey Guys, Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c. No way the t-nut that came with it will fit. I see three options: 1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post. My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet. 2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2. I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric. Any ideas on the size/pitch? 3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread. Leaning towards this. Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread. Thanks, Greg

All this discussion of metric threads has raised a question in my mind. Sorry for being simple, but the only metric threads I ever cut were small enough that they were done with a tap or a die, never on the lathe. Part 1 - Metric leadscrew. How do you cut imperial threads? Part 2 - Metric leadscrew. How do you cut metric threads? Is it as straight forward as imperial on a imperial lathe? Part 3.- Imperial leadscrew. Allan had a great explanation for how to cut metric threads. Thank you. Thanks. Andrei

So , I've been thinking of making a ER40 collet chuck as you folks know form the tread I started last week . I keep thinking the only part that I'm not 100 % sure I can pull off is the metric threads on the collet nut . So Erik's post got me thinking , why does the chuck need to be threaded for metric threads ? Why cant we make our own nuts & thread them SAE fine ? Does the nut need to be hardened ? Another thought I have been thinking about is how bout a collet chuck that doubles as a collet block ? Thought's ? thanks animal

Hi everyone, I am looking for a Metal Lathe Dog Drive Face Plate for my 1935 SB Lathe. I don't know what the thread size is, so took my 3 Jaw chuck off and took it to a Machine shop to find out what size the connecting threads were. They threaded a Die, into the head and told me it measured 1 5/8-8, I can't find that dim anywhere I tried converting 1 5/8 to mm and still can't find the Drive Face Plate I want. The Picture attached is what I am looking for, I snipped it from the net. Thank you for your help!

Greetings. I'm a new member here trying to get some more information about my first lathe, a SB 9 Model A. I want to buy an information card from the SB site, but not sure what how I should be entering this number. I can't tell if the "O" is the letter "O' or a zero. I have uploaded some photos. Also curious if this amount of wear is tolerable, and how to compenstate when machining with it, not that I would do much about the wear, other than learn to live with it if possible. Serial photo is at the bottom of the post. Thanks again. John Sullivan from Maryland

Hi, WRT collet chucks for the lathe. I've been planning to make the attached adapter for a while to suit my single tumbler heavy 10. What is stopping me is my inability to cut metric threads so I can use commercially available collet nuts and/or a lack of faith that I can make a collet nut. The design is based off of a 5C collet adapter. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/185766045549?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=g2V2IIY7Qu2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=67pz0IenSSi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY ) This is the variation where I trust the taper to secure the adapter in the spindle similar to a 5C collet adapter. Alternatively, I could use the 5C collet closer to secure the adapter in the spindle, the threading for that is not shown. I figured that I'd machine the external taper between centers and then insert the adapter into the spindle and machine the internal taper, bore and thread for collet nut. Note that the taper is wrong for the heavy 10 spindle per tooling chart, need to adjust before I make. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Erik S.

Anyone use one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/165622341954?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lwotkgcoszu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=9S4jfnnKS4i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/165600750837?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lwotkgcoszu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=9S4jfnnKS4i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The same seller reduced price for the 5" to $203 shipped but I think if I were to get one the 6" has quite a bit more height and swing, and has a MT3 center vs the MT2 of the 5". I already have an 8" Yuasa H-V rotary table but I like the tilting aspect and tailstock these have in addition to the dividing plates. Anyone have one?

I'm getting closer to making a couple of ER40 Collet chucks & blocks . I see a ton of folks selling the nuts . Has anyone made a ER40 chuck or block in the semi recent past ? I'm looking for a source for these nuts that are made with some kind of tolerance involved in the manufacturing of them . Anyone have any history with these ? thanks animal