|
I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?
|
??? ??? Ya could just remove the taper attachment & send it
to me , I'd take one for the team . I think they had covers like
yer askin about for the Craftsman lathes . I think there's a few
folks here with Craftsmans , maybe they could chime in on that .
animal
On 12/27/23 6:45 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a
cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like
the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be
an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which
I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying
to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing
it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution,
but I would like to avoid that as well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?
|
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them.? :) :)
On Dec 27, 2023 21:45, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote: I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?
|
As "generous" as your offer is, I could not do that to you. Sadly, I
think I have used it once in 3 years.
On 12/27/2023 10:26 PM, mike allen
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
??? ??? Ya could just remove the taper attachment & send it
to me , I'd take one for the team . I think they had covers like
yer askin about for the Craftsman lathes . I think there's a few
folks here with Craftsmans , maybe they could chime in on that .
animal
On 12/27/23 6:45 PM, Mike Poore
wrote:
I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a
cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like
the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be
an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling,
which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most
annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a
pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the
obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?
|
??? ??? DO ya have a 3D printer , or access to one ?
animal
On 12/27/23 9:15 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
As "generous" as your offer is, I could not do that to you. Sadly,
I think I have used it once in 3 years.
On 12/27/2023 10:26 PM, mike allen
wrote:
??? ??? Ya could just remove the taper attachment & send
it to me , I'd take one for the team . I think they had covers
like yer askin about for the Craftsman lathes . I think
there's a few folks here with Craftsmans , maybe they could
chime in on that .
animal
On 12/27/23 6:45 PM, Mike Poore
wrote:
I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a
cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems
like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not
seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole
drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide
screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a
whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper
attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid
that as well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?
|
I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The
downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal.
Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something
regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is
there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment?
On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three
or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they
will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you
want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will
keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls
on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the
ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made this way
and I still love them.? :) :)
|
I've seen those cheap cutting boards at the Dollar Tree . Ya
could heat up a magnet & push it into that material . I knew
I'd heard of Kydex before so I did a google . They use it for
pistol holsters .
animal
On 12/27/23 9:25 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The
downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal.
Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something
regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is
there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could
experiment?
On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with
three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where
they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic,
if you want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it
will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if
it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to
scratch the ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made this way
and I still love them.? :) :)
|
Here's the thread cover I made for our 14.5" tool room dated 1943 at Golden Valley Light Railway. Another piece of sheet metal attached to the same TTA clamp bolt would cover the TTA. I would fit it under the thread cover, as that needs to be reversed occasionally, and it needs some sort of anti rotation device. In fact now you've highlighted the necessity, I'm going to do just that! We also have a Colchester Triumph 2000 with a TTA that could do with one (rebadged as Clausing 15" when exported to America
The thread cover has to be reversible and unequal lengths in order to allow the full range of cross slide travel. The bolt head sliding in the slot prevents rotation. The clamp nut is not tight in normal turning when not using the TTA, and unscrews sufficiently without falling off to allow the bolt head to lift out of the slot when reversing the thread cover.
Cheers,
Eddie
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
------ Original Message ------
From: "Mike Poore" <mpoore10@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, 28 Dec, 23 At 05:25
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways
I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal.
Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment?
On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them. :) :)
|
Kydex(R)? is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic much beloved by DIY sheath makers.? (A square foot of .080" sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.)? It forms nicely in hot (375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.??
Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum cleaner.? Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric pressure until it conforms to the taper-attachment-plus-magnets.? Use the heat gun to control and "encourage" the area of deformation.? When it fits closely enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size (I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover.? It snaps on, sheds swarf, and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring application of precision measurement tools ... although now's a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc.? -- Just sayin'.??
In the boatyard where I grew up, we always reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates.? Well, if we'd had Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering.? Those were the days ...
On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:
I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The
downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal.
Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something
regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is
there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment?
On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three
or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they
will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you
want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will
keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls
on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the
ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made this way
and I still love them.? :) :)
On Dec 27, 2023 21:45, Mike Poore
<mpoore10@...> wrote:
I
have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to
fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment
as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean.
There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach
covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a
last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to
clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain.
Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the
obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as
well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip
control?
|
That slot is the primary offender. The taper attachment bolt slides
in the slot when not tightened, which makes covering the slot a bit
of a challenge. I like your solution.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Here's the thread cover I made for our
14.5" tool room dated 1943 at Golden Valley Light Railway.
Another piece of sheet metal attached to the same TTA clamp bolt
would cover the TTA. I would fit it under the thread cover, as
that needs to be reversed occasionally, and it needs some sort
of anti rotation device. In fact now you've highlighted the
necessity, I'm going to do just that! We also have a Colchester
Triumph 2000 with a TTA that could do with one (rebadged as
Clausing 15" when exported to America
The thread cover has to be reversible and unequal lengths
in order to allow the full range of cross slide travel. The
bolt head sliding in the slot prevents rotation. The clamp
nut is not tight in normal turning when not using the TTA,
and unscrews sufficiently without falling off to allow the
bolt head to lift out of the slot when reversing the thread
cover.
Cheers,
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Mike Poore" <mpoore10@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, 28 Dec, 23 At 05:25
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways
I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal.
Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment?
On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them. :) :)
|
I will look for it on Amazon. Sounds like a material I could use for
multiple projects.
On 12/28/2023 6:54 AM, Lou wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Kydex(R)? is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic
much beloved by DIY sheath makers.? (A square foot of .080"
sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.)? It forms nicely in hot
(375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.??
Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface
with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet
of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a
single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum
cleaner.? Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply
hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric
pressure until it conforms to the
taper-attachment-plus-magnets.? Use the heat gun to control
and "encourage" the area of deformation.? When it fits closely
enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size
(I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets
into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your
Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover.? It snaps on, sheds swarf,
and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring
application of precision measurement tools ... although now's
a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little
nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc.?
-- Just sayin'.??
In the boatyard where I grew up, we always
reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner
see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him
indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates.? Well, if we'd had
Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it
and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have
charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by
Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering.? Those were the days
...
|
??? ??? I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down
this road before .
thanks
animal
On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Kydex(R)? is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic
much beloved by DIY sheath makers.? (A square foot of .080"
sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.)? It forms nicely in hot
(375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.??
Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface
with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet
of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a
single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum
cleaner.? Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply
hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric
pressure until it conforms to the
taper-attachment-plus-magnets.? Use the heat gun to control
and "encourage" the area of deformation.? When it fits closely
enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size
(I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets
into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your
Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover.? It snaps on, sheds swarf,
and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring
application of precision measurement tools ... although now's
a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little
nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc.?
-- Just sayin'.??
In the boatyard where I grew up, we always
reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner
see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him
indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates.? Well, if we'd had
Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it
and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have
charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by
Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering.? Those were the days
...
|
Vacuum is an extremely versatile technique -- in fact, the use of vacuum to "clamp" glued laminates is one of the main reasons that wood is still used to build high-strength boat hulls (and machinable forms, and low-cost drones, and narc subs).? A vacuum pump, a plastic tarp, some duct tape, spruce shavings and epoxy glue -- instant transoceanic boat.? Spruce has a better strength/weight ratio than any other affordable material except maybe carbon fiber ... and all the joy of making mud-pies too!? :)?
Yes, I started down this road back when WeldWood(R) phenolic resin was the best waterproof glue we could get -- i.e., a decade before epoxy was a Thing.? British designer Uffa Fox made WWII aircraft out of glued laminate wood.? He has been quoted as saying: "Fibreglas is like artificial insemination -- it works, but there's no joy in it."? I so affirm.? But glued wood is joyful!
On Dec 28, 2023 13:53, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down
this road before .
thanks
animal
On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:
Kydex(R)? is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic
much beloved by DIY sheath makers.? (A square foot of .080"
sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.)? It forms nicely in hot
(375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.??
Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface
with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet
of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a
single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum
cleaner.? Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply
hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric
pressure until it conforms to the
taper-attachment-plus-magnets.? Use the heat gun to control
and "encourage" the area of deformation.? When it fits closely
enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size
(I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets
into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your
Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover.? It snaps on, sheds swarf,
and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring
application of precision measurement tools ... although now's
a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little
nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc.?
-- Just sayin'.??
In the boatyard where I grew up, we always
reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner
see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him
indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates.? Well, if we'd had
Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it
and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have
charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by
Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering.? Those were the days
...
On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore
<mpoore10@...> wrote:
I did something similar on another lathe using a
rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet,
but not a big deal.
Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned
something regardless. Is that the material they use for
cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made
of it that I could experiment?
On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit,
with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued
to it where they will match to the taper attachment?
Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty
but it will keep the debris off and you won't be
heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes,
and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made
this way and I still love them.? :) :)
On Dec 27, 2023 21:45,
Mike Poore <mpoore10@...>
wrote:
I
have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would
like to fashion a cover for the cross slide
and taper attachment as it seems like the most
time consuming area to clean. There does not
seem to be an obvious way to attach covers
without some hole drilling, which I prefer as
a last resort. The cross slide screw is most
annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as
a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using
the taper attachment is the obvious solution,
but I would like to avoid that as well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with
chip control?
|
Lou, if you're interested in Glue Laminated wood, are you familiar with Manchester Oxford road station? See
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manchester_Oxford_Road_railway_station
Eddie
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
------ Original Message ------
From: "Lou" <lhm@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, 28 Dec, 23 At 19:18
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways
Vacuum is an extremely versatile technique -- in fact, the use of vacuum to "clamp" glued laminates is one of the main reasons that wood is still used to build high-strength boat hulls (and machinable forms, and low-cost drones, and narc subs). A vacuum pump, a plastic tarp, some duct tape, spruce shavings and epoxy glue -- instant transoceanic boat. Spruce has a better strength/weight ratio than any other affordable material except maybe carbon fiber ... and all the joy of making mud-pies too! :)
Yes, I started down this road back when WeldWood(R) phenolic resin was the best waterproof glue we could get -- i.e., a decade before epoxy was a Thing. British designer Uffa Fox made WWII aircraft out of glued laminate wood. He has been quoted as saying: "Fibreglas is like artificial insemination -- it works, but there's no joy in it." I so affirm. But glued wood is joyful! On Dec 28, 2023 13:53, mike allen < animal@...> wrote: I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down this road before .
thanks animal
On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:
Kydex(R) is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic much beloved by DIY sheath makers. (A square foot of .080" sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.) It forms nicely in hot (375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.
Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum cleaner. Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric pressure until it conforms to the taper-attachment-plus-magnets. Use the heat gun to control and "encourage" the area of deformation. When it fits closely enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size (I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover. It snaps on, sheds swarf, and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring application of precision measurement tools ... although now's a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc. -- Just sayin'.
In the boatyard where I grew up, we always reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates. Well, if we'd had Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering. Those were the days ... On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote: I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal. Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment? On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them. :) :) On Dec 27, 2023 21:45, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote: I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?
|
This is an original from my SB 13". Scaling one for a SB9 would be easy. 
|
I don't have a 13 or a 9A, but I may be able to scale it for a Heavy 10L, too... ;) Thank you for sharing this info!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, December 28, 2023 at 02:17:28 PM CST, Rick <vwrick@...> wrote:
This is an original from my SB 13". Scaling one for a SB9 would be easy. 
|
Hey Bill, Looking forward to seeing a scaled drawing for a Heavy 10L John ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via groups.io
Sent: December 28, 2023 2:32 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways? I don't have a 13 or a 9A, but I may be able to scale it for a Heavy 10L, too... ;) Thank you for sharing this info! William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first. ? On Thursday, December 28, 2023 at 02:17:28 PM CST, Rick <vwrick@...> wrote: This is an original from my SB 13". Scaling one for a SB9 would be easy.
|
bada bing , bada boom
animal
On 12/28/23 3:58 PM, John Dammeyer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hey
Bill,
Looking
forward to seeing a scaled drawing for a Heavy 10L
John
?
?
I don't have
a 13 or a 9A, but I may be able to scale it for a
Heavy 10L, too... ;) Thank you for sharing this info!
William R.
Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Good
judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.?
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because
I've done it wrong enough times to START to
know better.
Expect
in one hand, expectorate in the other. See
which one gets full first.
?
On
Thursday, December 28, 2023 at 02:17:28 PM CST, Rick
<vwrick@...> wrote:
This
is an original from my SB 13". Scaling one for a
SB9 would be easy.
|
Wow!? I had no idea -- wish I could visit it.? What kind of glue was used in that structure? Must have had significant influence on longevity :)
(I've also been a fan of the Norwegian "stave churches" most of my life -- they're a living history of "survivable" wood construction technique, especially its errors...)
Thanks for the suggestion. ?Lou
On Dec 28, 2023 14:58, "eddie.draper@... via groups.io" <eddie.draper@...> wrote: Lou, if you're interested in Glue Laminated wood, are you familiar with Manchester Oxford road station? See
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manchester_Oxford_Road_railway_station
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Lou" <lhm@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, 28 Dec, 23 At 19:18
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways
Vacuum is an extremely versatile technique -- in fact, the use of vacuum to "clamp" glued laminates is one of the main reasons that wood is still used to build high-strength boat hulls (and machinable forms, and low-cost drones, and narc subs). A vacuum pump, a plastic tarp, some duct tape, spruce shavings and epoxy glue -- instant transoceanic boat. Spruce has a better strength/weight ratio than any other affordable material except maybe carbon fiber ... and all the joy of making mud-pies too! :)
Yes, I started down this road back when WeldWood(R) phenolic resin was the best waterproof glue we could get -- i.e., a decade before epoxy was a Thing. British designer Uffa Fox made WWII aircraft out of glued laminate wood. He has been quoted as saying: "Fibreglas is like artificial insemination -- it works, but there's no joy in it." I so affirm. But glued wood is joyful! On Dec 28, 2023 13:53, mike allen <animal@...> wrote: I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down this road before .
thanks animal
On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:
Kydex(R) is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic much beloved by DIY sheath makers. (A square foot of .080" sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.) It forms nicely in hot (375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.
Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum cleaner. Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric pressure until it conforms to the taper-attachment-plus-magnets. Use the heat gun to control and "encourage" the area of deformation. When it fits closely enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size (I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover. It snaps on, sheds swarf, and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring application of precision measurement tools ... although now's a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc. -- Just sayin'.
In the boatyard where I grew up, we always reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates. Well, if we'd had Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering. Those were the days ... On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote: I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal. Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment? On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them. :) :) On Dec 27, 2023 21:45, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote: I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?
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Tears ago they came out with these wooden I-beams . They have
perforations the full length? every maybe 16" that ya can pop out
with a hammer for wires or pipes . Ya can make just about any size
hole in one as long as ya don't cut into the top or bottom part of
the? product .? IIRC ya can even make a hole in the center of the
span , can't do that with sawn lumber . A 20' joist? one is
lighter than a 10' 2x12 .
animal
On 12/28/23 5:03 PM, Lou wrote:
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Wow!? I had no idea -- wish I could visit it.? What kind of
glue was used in that structure? Must have had significant
influence on longevity :)
(I've also been a fan of the Norwegian "stave
churches" most of my life -- they're a living history of
"survivable" wood construction technique, especially its
errors...)
Thanks for the suggestion.
?Lou
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Bill in OKC too