Re: Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways
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Vacuum is an extremely versatile technique -- in fact, the use of vacuum to "clamp" glued laminates is one of the main reasons that wood is still used to build high-strength boat hulls (and machinable forms, and low-cost drones, and narc subs).? A vacuum pump, a plastic tarp, some duct tape, spruce shavings and epoxy glue -- instant transoceanic boat.? Spruce has a better strength/weight ratio than any other affordable material except maybe carbon fiber ... and all the joy of making mud-pies too!? :)?
Yes, I started down this road back when WeldWood(R) phenolic resin was the best waterproof glue we could get -- i.e., a decade before epoxy was a Thing.? British designer Uffa Fox made WWII aircraft out of glued laminate wood.? He has been quoted as saying: "Fibreglas is like artificial insemination -- it works, but there's no joy in it."? I so affirm.? But glued wood is joyful!
On Dec 28, 2023 13:53, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down
this road before .
thanks
animal
On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:
Kydex(R)? is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic
much beloved by DIY sheath makers.? (A square foot of .080"
sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.)? It forms nicely in hot
(375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.??
Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface
with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet
of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a
single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum
cleaner.? Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply
hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric
pressure until it conforms to the
taper-attachment-plus-magnets.? Use the heat gun to control
and "encourage" the area of deformation.? When it fits closely
enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size
(I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets
into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your
Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover.? It snaps on, sheds swarf,
and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring
application of precision measurement tools ... although now's
a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little
nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc.?
-- Just sayin'.??
In the boatyard where I grew up, we always
reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner
see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him
indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates.? Well, if we'd had
Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it
and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have
charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by
Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering.? Those were the days
...
On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore
<mpoore10@...> wrote:
I did something similar on another lathe using a
rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet,
but not a big deal.
Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned
something regardless. Is that the material they use for
cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made
of it that I could experiment?
On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:
Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit,
with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued
to it where they will match to the taper attachment?
Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?
Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty
but it will keep the debris off and you won't be
heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes,
and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)
Yes, I have several shields I made
this way and I still love them.? :) :)
On Dec 27, 2023 21:45,
Mike Poore <mpoore10@...>
wrote:
I
have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would
like to fashion a cover for the cross slide
and taper attachment as it seems like the most
time consuming area to clean. There does not
seem to be an obvious way to attach covers
without some hole drilling, which I prefer as
a last resort. The cross slide screw is most
annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as
a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using
the taper attachment is the obvious solution,
but I would like to avoid that as well.
Does anyone have photos of how they deal with
chip control?
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