Re: lubricating the quick change on a single tumbler 13 inch
It is kinda suspicious that the noise occurs in whatever gear you
select.? It may be coming from before or after the gear box.? You
might want to check the gears which feed the gearbox from the
spindle and listen carefully to the apron to see if it is coming
from there
HTH Jack
On 1/13/2025 12:13 AM, Chuck Lindquist
via groups.io wrote:
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I have a 1947 vintage 13 inch SB with the single stumbler
quick change gear box.
I don't use the quick change very often, but today when I
used it, the longitudinal feed seem to work like normal, but the
gears were very noisy.
I would describe the sound as a "rattling".
Before
operation, I did add the Type B oil in of the gits oil caps on
the quick change gear box.
I then tried operating the quick change in several different
feed ranges and the rattling noise was present in all of the
ranges I tried.?
Is this rattling noise indicative of a mechanical problem
developing in the gear box or is it just a lack of lubrication
on the gear teeth face??
If mechanical any ideas as to where to look to diagnose?
If a lubrication issue, should I also be adding lubrication
to the gear faces??If so, what type of lubrication is
recommended?
Thanks.
|
Re: Birmingham self-centering 4-jaw chuck
Most small Chinese lathes in the range of 11-12 inches use a D1-4 spindle
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On Jan 13, 2025, at 17:39, Dave Rygmyr via groups.io <davidry@...> wrote:
? Hello everyone, and thanks for letting me join. I wish I had a SB but I don't, I was gifted a Birmingham YCL-1126BD lathe and I have to make do. I was hoping to get a self-centering 4-jaw chuck for it. Birmingham is no help. I've found a number of them, even on Amazon, but none of the photos or descriptions show the back of the chuck or indicate the connection type and frankly I'm lost. The 3-jaw on there now uses little L-shaped hooks or whatever you want to call them to hold it in place. I would sincerely appreciate any assistance you guys might be able to give me.
?
Dave
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Re: Birmingham self-centering 4-jaw chuck
how does the chuck mount ? maybe a pic of the spindle mount ?
animal
On 1/13/25 5:32 PM, Dave Rygmyr wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello everyone, and thanks for letting me join. I wish I had
a SB but I don't, I was gifted a Birmingham YCL-1126BD lathe and
I have to make do. I was hoping to get a self-centering 4-jaw
chuck for it. Birmingham is no help. I've found a number of
them, even on Amazon, but none of the photos or descriptions
show the back of the chuck or indicate the connection type and
frankly I'm lost. The 3-jaw on there now uses little L-shaped
hooks or whatever you want to call them to hold it in place. I
would sincerely appreciate any assistance you guys might be able
to give me.
?
Dave
|
Birmingham self-centering 4-jaw chuck
Hello everyone, and thanks for letting me join. I wish I had a SB but I don't, I was gifted a Birmingham YCL-1126BD lathe and I have to make do. I was hoping to get a self-centering 4-jaw chuck for it. Birmingham is no help. I've found a number of them, even on Amazon, but none of the photos or descriptions show the back of the chuck or indicate the connection type and frankly I'm lost. The 3-jaw on there now uses little L-shaped hooks or whatever you want to call them to hold it in place. I would sincerely appreciate any assistance you guys might be able to give me.
?
Dave
|
Re: Collets SB3 for SB lathe 9
Hi There,
?
I take it you have a 10R type Heavy Ten (with the 1-7/8" x 8 tpi
spindle).
?
I have a lot of those 2A (a.k.a. SB 2).? I have three 10R's and this is
the size collet they use.? I also have some of the spindle adapters
they use (#4 Morse to 2A) if you need one.? I don't think I have
any metric 2A collets if that is what you are looking for.
?
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
?
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Re: Collets SB3 for SB lathe 9
According to this SB picture, the SB-3 is equal to the 3C collet usable on a SB9. On the white paper picture are the available collets SB-3.
One of the 10mm collets is a non SB collet but fits SB-3 drawbar. Same threath and demensions.
For a SB-10-Heavy I need the 2A or SB-2 collets.?
2-A = SB-2
3-C = SB-3
4-C = SB-4
5-C = SB-5
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Re: Collets SB3 for SB lathe 9
Are these the same as the 3C collets? If yes, I might be interested, depending on what sizes you have available
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I bought collets for a SB-10Heavy. However, they turned out to be SB-3 collets for a SB-9.
That's why they are for sale.
Trading for a SB-10-Heavy drawbar to fit SB-2 collets is also an option.
In the meantime, I was able to buy SB-2 collets. I'm still looking for a drawbar for them.
greetings,
Ruud
(The Netherlands)
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Collets SB3 for SB lathe 9
I bought collets for a SB-10Heavy. However, they turned out to be SB-3 collets for a SB-9.
That's why they are for sale.
Trading for a SB-10-Heavy drawbar to fit SB-2 collets is also an option.
In the meantime, I was able to buy SB-2 collets. I'm still looking for a drawbar for them.
greetings,
Ruud
(The Netherlands)
|
Re: lubricating the quick change on a single tumbler 13 inch
Our 1943 14.5" has a single sliding lever plus 3 position on top plus in out plunger at the change wheels. ?Hope you can give it a name from that description. ?When stripped, I discovered that to correctly oil the conical gear cluster's sliding member's bearing, the cluster lever has to align with the oil point, as the oil point feeds via a drip pipe to land on the bearing of the sliding cluster. ?The pipe was distorted & not restorable, so now, every time the gearbox is put into use, I crouch down and apply oil upwards into the works from a squirty oil can. ?That bearing is quite badly worn, but the gears still work. ?The oil I use here is steam loco motion oil, which is ISO 220 with a tackiness additive so it tends to stay put, but repeated every 4 hours if the job takes that long. ?The same stuff goes on all the gear teeth, and to that end I have added drilled & hollowed out 10mm bolts to the top of the back gear covers. ?The hollowing out contains a piece of felt to keep the muck out. ?Oil is only added here when back gear is in use. ?A squirty oil can can land oil on the change wheels through the tumbler gap in the guard. ? Eddie
?
------ Original Message ------
From: wlw-19958@...
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, January 13th 2025, 17:12
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] lubricating the quick change on a single tumbler 13 inch
? Hi There, ? When oiling the gearbox, it is desirable to point the nozzle? of the oil gun up under the skirt of the gearbox casting and squirt some oil up onto the cone gear cluster the lever engage. ? Gears that "rattle" when engaged usually are not properly meshed or engaged completely.? Are sure the noise is coming from the gearbox? Could it be from the gears on the banjo bracket? ? The gears in the gearbox are fixed on shafts and really cannot get out of proper mesh unless there is something broken or very worn. The gears on the banjo bracket (referred to as the end gears by some) are mounted on shafts that can be adjusted to change the gear position and hence the meshing of the gears. ? Good Luck! -Blue Chips- Webb ?
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Re: lubricating the quick change on a single tumbler 13 inch
When I bought my SB13 it made a huge racket when I used the gearbox. I used this to negotiate a better price. When I got it home, I tore it completely down for a refurbish before moving it into my basement. What I found was the 2 shafts that carried the gears had worn the oilite bushings in the case tremendously. On 2 of them, they had worn through completely, to the cast iron. The shaft ends had also worn down, the worst was down to .955". I put in all new bushings, and sleeved the shaft ends that ride on the bushings back to 1". ?I cleaned everything out of the oil holes, installed new felts and all is good now.
|
Re: lubricating the quick change on a single tumbler 13 inch
Hi There,
?
When oiling the gearbox, it is desirable to point the nozzle? of the
oil gun up under the skirt of the gearbox casting and squirt some
oil up onto the cone gear cluster the lever engage.
?
Gears that "rattle" when engaged usually are not properly meshed
or engaged completely.? Are sure the noise is coming from the
gearbox? Could it be from the gears on the banjo bracket?
?
The gears in the gearbox are fixed on shafts and really cannot get
out of proper mesh unless there is something broken or very worn.
The gears on the banjo bracket (referred to as the end gears by some)
are mounted on shafts that can be adjusted to change the gear
position and hence the meshing of the gears.
?
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
?
|
Re: lubricating the quick change on a single tumbler 13 inch
???? if it's any thing like the 9A gear box it counts on the oil
traveling through it's reservoir & going through the casting
oil passage's & the finally to the oil wicks in the gear box
that lube the shafts & gears . I can't say I remember seeing
anything when i had mine apart that actually got oil to the gear
teeth . These machines were a lot like Harley & other early
motorcycles in that they operated on z total loss oil system . Ya
just keep feedin oil to it to make it last . I usually fill my
gearbox oil cup before I use the lathe & then top it off as I
use it . On my older lathe which was a change gear lathe so all
the gears were exposed except tor the apron I used " open gear
lube " from a spray can from NAPA . this is some pretty sticky
stuff & clung to the gears , but also helped airborne crap
from hanging out there too . DO ya by chance have a copy of the
rebuild book ? if not I recommend it , it also comes with a felt
kit which if ya don't know th history of yer machine it is
probably a real good idea to at least pull the spindle to
check/replace the spindle wicks? before any damage shows up .
animal
On 1/12/25 9:13 PM, Chuck Lindquist via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a 1947 vintage 13 inch SB with the single stumbler
quick change gear box.
I don't use the quick change very often, but today when I
used it, the longitudinal feed seem to work like normal, but the
gears were very noisy.
I would describe the sound as a "rattling".
Before
operation, I did add the Type B oil in of the gits oil caps on
the quick change gear box.
I then tried operating the quick change in several different
feed ranges and the rattling noise was present in all of the
ranges I tried.?
Is this rattling noise indicative of a mechanical problem
developing in the gear box or is it just a lack of lubrication
on the gear teeth face??
If mechanical any ideas as to where to look to diagnose?
If a lubrication issue, should I also be adding lubrication
to the gear faces??If so, what type of lubrication is
recommended?
Thanks.
|
lubricating the quick change on a single tumbler 13 inch
I have a 1947 vintage 13 inch SB with the single stumbler quick change gear box.
I don't use the quick change very often, but today when I used it, the longitudinal feed seem to work like normal, but the gears were very noisy.
I would describe the sound as a "rattling".
Before operation, I did add the Type B oil in of the gits oil caps on the quick change gear box.
I then tried operating the quick change in several different feed ranges and the rattling noise was present in all of the ranges I tried.?
Is this rattling noise indicative of a mechanical problem developing in the gear box or is it just a lack of lubrication on the gear teeth face??
If mechanical any ideas as to where to look to diagnose?
If a lubrication issue, should I also be adding lubrication to the gear faces??If so, what type of lubrication is recommended?
Thanks.
|
Re: 9A apron worm end play
Thanks very much for the information, Webb. You wishing me good luck worked!
?
Due to Boone Testerman's excellent "Southbend apron and saddle rebuild 9A" at <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PQknXd209k&t=1190s> from 5 years ago, I found the problem!
?
He pointed out that there's a right way and a wrong way to install the nut on the end of the worm. Guess which way I had it installed.
?
I noticed the hole in the nut was off center, but didn't appreciate the significance of that. With the nut on correctly (bevel on the outside and wear marks on the inside) the backlash is only a few thousandths and there no binding of the worm.
?
Thanks again,
?
Jan
On 01/10/2025 4:50 PM MST wlw19958 via groups.io <wlw-19958@...> wrote:
?
?
Hi There,
?
If I am understanding you correctly, you are referring to the hole
in the worm in the apron and the round take-up nut that holds it
in the apron casting.
?
The castings are not real hard and wear at the point the worm butts
against the boss of the apron.? First off, this isn't a real critical problem.?
The .075" backlash is just the amount the worm and casting have
worn.? The lathe will work quite well like this but there is going to
be some "play" or "take-up" before things fully get moving.? This
is just fine but some like to eliminate as much "play" or "slop" in the
mechanism as they can.
?
If you cannot rotate it one full turn to take-up the wear, you can tighten
it as much as you can (and still not have it bind) and drill a new hole in
the nut to align with the hole in the worm so the take-up and worm can
be locked together with the pin.
?
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
?
?
?
|
Re: 9A apron worm end play
Hi There,
?
If I am understanding you correctly, you are referring to the hole
in the worm in the apron and the round take-up nut that holds it
in the apron casting.
?
The castings are not real hard and wear at the point the worm butts
against the boss of the apron.? First off, this isn't a real critical problem.?
The .075" backlash is just the amount the worm and casting have
worn.? The lathe will work quite well like this but there is going to
be some "play" or "take-up" before things fully get moving.? This
is just fine but some like to eliminate as much "play" or "slop" in the
mechanism as they can.
?
If you cannot rotate it one full turn to take-up the wear, you can tighten
it as much as you can (and still not have it bind) and drill a new hole in
the nut to align with the hole in the worm so the take-up and worm can
be locked together with the pin.
?
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
?
?
?
|
Re: 9A apron worm end play
If ya have any brass @ teh size of the key ya can try to make one
just undersize to see how it works ? Is the leadscrew adjusted so
it runs true without binding ? Is the lead screw all cleaned out ?
How does it work using the halfnuts ?
animal
On 1/9/25 7:07 PM, jonwoellhaf via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
Hi guys,
?
I been following some interesting and
informative posts and now I have a question of my own.
?
What is the acceptable end play for
the worm in a 9A?
?
With the holes in the key slot and nut
aligned, the worm is so tight it can't rotate, and in the next
looser position it has about 0.075 end play.?Is that acceptable?
If not, I don't see how the holes can align and the worm not be
way too tight.
?
Thanks!
?
Jan
|
Hi guys,
?
I been following some interesting and informative posts and now I have a question of my own.
?
What is the acceptable end play for the worm in a 9A?
?
With the holes in the key slot and nut aligned, the worm is so tight it can't rotate, and in the next looser position it has about 0.075 end play.?Is that acceptable? If not, I don't see how the holes can align and the worm not be way too tight.
?
Thanks!
?
Jan
|
Re: Ebay thread dial indicator
John, when you finally get one, let us know what you got and how it worked out. This was a very interesting thread (pun intended), despite the fact that I don't?have a 13" lathe.?
Cheers
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Hello all of you that responded to my post. I appreciate all the information you imparted. ?It will make my decision a lot easier. ?Thank you.
John Grump
Cell 715-829-4559
|
Here's the one I made: There are others there, some are arguably better than mine.
Neil
|
Re: Ebay thread dial indicator
Hello all of you that responded to my post. I appreciate all the information you imparted. ?It will make my decision a lot easier. ?Thank you.
John Grump Cell 715-829-4559
|
Ruud
Neil Hitze