Apologies, this has gone completely OT.

My interest in gluelam arrived 24 years ago with my wife, who does architectural drawings, the pretty ones for selling to planners and customers. A lot of her work (before retirement, anyway) was for a UK company called Pinelog. They make up market timber lodges for holiday parks etc. and also do all the associated buildings such as swimming pools, and even have lodge parks of their own. This is one of hers.

I'll try being cheeky and ask about their glue, but it might be a trade secret. It certainly looks as though it is waterproof!

Returning to the topic in the title, I appreciate that people on this forum like to restore their lathes to original condition, but the cross slide screw cover for lathes with a TTA needs no precision! It is easy to determine a range of leading dimensions that will suffice. Mine has turned up edges for stiffness, simply because the offcut I found was just wide enough to permit this. The anti rotation bolt is something the head of which just about fitted the slot (a 10mm Allan screw) with just a tad ground (by hand) off the sides. And while the lathe might look dog rough by your standards, so far as I have been able to determine, the slideways are completely unworn since it was refurbished by Sentinel (the steam lorry works, later Rolls Royce truck Diesels) at Shrewsbury in 1961. It turns parallel all the way to the chuck. Just wish I could get hold of an equally good 3 jaw for the same price as the lathe! (?0, apart from a 5 mile haul in my car trailer). Furthermore, it is lucky to not be at the bottom of the Atlantic ocean along with the ship bringing it to the UK in 1943.

Cheers,

Eddie

------ Original Message ------ From: "Lou" <lhm@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, 29 Dec, 23 At 01:03 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Wow! I had no idea -- wish I could visit it. What kind of glue was used in that structure? Must have had significant influence on longevity :)

(I've also been a fan of the Norwegian "stave churches" most of my life -- they're a living history of "survivable" wood construction technique, especially its errors...)

Thanks for the suggestion.

Lou

On Dec 28, 2023 14:58, "eddie.draper@... via groups.io" <eddie.draper@...> wrote:

Lou, if you're interested in Glue Laminated wood, are you familiar with Manchester Oxford road station? See

Eddie

------ Original Message ------ From: "Lou" <lhm@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, 28 Dec, 23 At 19:18 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Vacuum is an extremely versatile technique -- in fact, the use of vacuum to "clamp" glued laminates is one of the main reasons that wood is still used to build high-strength boat hulls (and machinable forms, and low-cost drones, and narc subs). A vacuum pump, a plastic tarp, some duct tape, spruce shavings and epoxy glue -- instant transoceanic boat. Spruce has a better strength/weight ratio than any other affordable material except maybe carbon fiber ... and all the joy of making mud-pies too! :)

Yes, I started down this road back when WeldWood(R) phenolic resin was the best waterproof glue we could get -- i.e., a decade before epoxy was a Thing. British designer Uffa Fox made WWII aircraft out of glued laminate wood. He has been quoted as saying: "Fibreglas is like artificial insemination -- it works, but there's no joy in it." I so affirm. But glued wood is joyful!

On Dec 28, 2023 13:53, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down this road before .

thanks

animal

On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:

Kydex(R) is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic much beloved by DIY sheath makers. (A square foot of .080" sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.) It forms nicely in hot (375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.

Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum cleaner. Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric pressure until it conforms to the taper-attachment-plus-magnets. Use the heat gun to control and "encourage" the area of deformation. When it fits closely enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size (I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover. It snaps on, sheds swarf, and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring application of precision measurement tools ... although now's a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc. -- Just sayin'.

In the boatyard where I grew up, we always reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates. Well, if we'd had Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering. Those were the days ...

On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal. Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment?

On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:

Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?

Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)

Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them. :) :)

On Dec 27, 2023 21:45, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well. Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?

------ Original Message ------
From: "Bob Durst" <BobD@...>
To: "SBLathe" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, 29 Dec, 23 At 17:53
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] TA cover

Here's a slight variation on what others have posted regarding their TA covers. This is on my13". Two features that are useful are the slight bend on the close end that allows it to ride up over the cross slide and second the hinge (5.25" from the locking handle) which allows one to back out the cross slide all the way to the end.

?

Here we go.? Dimples are now 0.125” out the bottom and 1.25” apart centered on the hole.

?

?

?

------ Original Message ------
From: "Lou" <lhm@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, 29 Dec, 23 At 01:03
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Wow! I had no idea -- wish I could visit it. What kind of glue was used in that structure? Must have had significant influence on longevity :)

(I've also been a fan of the Norwegian "stave churches" most of my life -- they're a living history of "survivable" wood construction technique, especially its errors...)

Thanks for the suggestion.

Lou

On Dec 28, 2023 14:58, "eddie.draper@... via groups.io" <eddie.draper@...> wrote:

Lou, if you're interested in Glue Laminated wood, are you familiar with Manchester Oxford road station? See

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manchester_Oxford_Road_railway_station

Eddie

------ Original Message ------
From: "Lou" <lhm@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, 28 Dec, 23 At 19:18
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Vacuum is an extremely versatile technique -- in fact, the use of vacuum to "clamp" glued laminates is one of the main reasons that wood is still used to build high-strength boat hulls (and machinable forms, and low-cost drones, and narc subs). A vacuum pump, a plastic tarp, some duct tape, spruce shavings and epoxy glue -- instant transoceanic boat. Spruce has a better strength/weight ratio than any other affordable material except maybe carbon fiber ... and all the joy of making mud-pies too! :)

Yes, I started down this road back when WeldWood(R) phenolic resin was the best waterproof glue we could get -- i.e., a decade before epoxy was a Thing. British designer Uffa Fox made WWII aircraft out of glued laminate wood. He has been quoted as saying: "Fibreglas is like artificial insemination -- it works, but there's no joy in it." I so affirm. But glued wood is joyful!

On Dec 28, 2023 13:53, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down this road before .

thanks

animal

On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:

Kydex(R) is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic much beloved by DIY sheath makers. (A square foot of .080" sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.) It forms nicely in hot (375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.

Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum cleaner. Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric pressure until it conforms to the taper-attachment-plus-magnets. Use the heat gun to control and "encourage" the area of deformation. When it fits closely enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size (I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover. It snaps on, sheds swarf, and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring application of precision measurement tools ... although now's a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc. -- Just sayin'.

In the boatyard where I grew up, we always reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates. Well, if we'd had Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering. Those were the days ...

On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal.

Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment?

On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:

Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?

Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)

Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them. :) :)

On Dec 27, 2023 21:45, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well.

Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?

?

John,

?

Many thanks!

?

Have been following the messages, and my 10L doesn't have that cover either.

Info is much appreciated.

?

Cheers, and a Very Happy New Year to you and all the other members!

?

TonyS

?

?

Here we go.? Dimples are now 0.125” out the bottom and 1.25” apart centered on the hole.

?

?

?

?

Here we go.? Dimples are now 0.125” out the bottom and 1.25” apart centered on the hole.

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

Superb! ?The only remaining pieces?of mopar history on hand right now for me are the GTS letters from one of my Darts and a B-body clutch linkage?z-bar pivot frame bracket. ?Pushbutton automatics with manual valve bodies were the order of the day for me.

Thanks,

George H. Meinschein, P.E.

Firearm and Ballistics Engineering LLC

150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728
gmeinschein@...
Cell#: 732-580-1736

Sent from for iOS

On Tue, Dec 26, 2023 at 2:05 PM, Mark Z via groups.io <bode528@...> wrote:

Been racing this one since 1982 .? Has a new motor that makes 1060 hp but was in transmission purgatory so have not run it yet with the new motor..? Finally got that fixed.? Have 3 other old Mopars in the garage.

My buddy has a 64 Max Wedge Plymouth that he races in in A/SA or AA/SA.? Won a couple times with it.? Not sure if he is still active as he is 80 years old now.? But he was racing in 2022.


--
1969 16" x 6' South Bend Lathe
Garage full of old Mopars........

--
-George M.

Wow!? I had no idea -- wish I could visit it.? What kind of glue was used in that structure? Must have had significant influence on longevity :)

(I've also been a fan of the Norwegian "stave churches" most of my life -- they're a living history of "survivable" wood construction technique, especially its errors...)

Thanks for the suggestion.

?Lou

On Dec 28, 2023 14:58, "eddie.draper@... via groups.io" <eddie.draper@...> wrote:

Lou, if you're interested in Glue Laminated wood, are you familiar with Manchester Oxford road station? See

Eddie

------ Original Message ------ From: "Lou" <lhm@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, 28 Dec, 23 At 19:18 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Vacuum is an extremely versatile technique -- in fact, the use of vacuum to "clamp" glued laminates is one of the main reasons that wood is still used to build high-strength boat hulls (and machinable forms, and low-cost drones, and narc subs). A vacuum pump, a plastic tarp, some duct tape, spruce shavings and epoxy glue -- instant transoceanic boat. Spruce has a better strength/weight ratio than any other affordable material except maybe carbon fiber ... and all the joy of making mud-pies too! :)

Yes, I started down this road back when WeldWood(R) phenolic resin was the best waterproof glue we could get -- i.e., a decade before epoxy was a Thing. British designer Uffa Fox made WWII aircraft out of glued laminate wood. He has been quoted as saying: "Fibreglas is like artificial insemination -- it works, but there's no joy in it." I so affirm. But glued wood is joyful!

On Dec 28, 2023 13:53, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down this road before .

thanks

animal

On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:

Kydex(R) is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic much beloved by DIY sheath makers. (A square foot of .080" sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.) It forms nicely in hot (375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.

Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum cleaner. Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric pressure until it conforms to the taper-attachment-plus-magnets. Use the heat gun to control and "encourage" the area of deformation. When it fits closely enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size (I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover. It snaps on, sheds swarf, and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring application of precision measurement tools ... although now's a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc. -- Just sayin'.

In the boatyard where I grew up, we always reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates. Well, if we'd had Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering. Those were the days ...

On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal. Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment?

On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:

Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?

Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)

Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them. :) :)

On Dec 27, 2023 21:45, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well. Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?