Re: First lathe rebuild questions
yea , that's? it , that's the ticket !
animal
On 7/25/23 7:22 PM, Bob Kellermann via
groups.io wrote:
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?
Join up over here , they have a SOuth Bend lathe specific
form . In either the Sticky topic or the one below it for
links should have a picture of the label of a can of paint
mixed up at Sherwin Williams . The whole paint recipe is on
the label in the pic . I used it when I redid my 9A . Great
paint I went to a art store & bought some real good
paint brushes to use & the paint is self leveling . I
made the mistake of putting mine back together after a
couple of days . When & if I ever decide to do it again
I'll let it sit & harden for a couple of weeks . If you
can't find the pic just ask & someone will pipe up with
the info of where it's at . Great forum probably a couple
thousand years of South Bend lathe experience there .
good luck , & remember pictures or it never happened .
animal
On 7/25/23 2:50 PM, Jefferson
wrote:
I just bought my first lathe (9" 744 A 167045) and I have
some questions. It is covered with surface rust, and the
motor has been disconnected.
1) Does anyone have a wiring diagram to connect the motor
(GE 5kc63ab776) to the barrel switch and a power cord?
2) Is the ILION rebuild kit and "Guide to Renovating"
(Amazon $80) the way I should proceed?
3) What gray (It was originally gray right?) brush-able
paint would you recommend?
Thanks in advance,
|
Re: First lathe rebuild questions
On Jul 25, 2023, at 6:16 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?
Join up over here , they have a SOuth Bend lathe specific form .
In either the Sticky topic or the one below it for links should
have a picture of the label of a can of paint mixed up at Sherwin
Williams . The whole paint recipe is on the label in the pic . I
used it when I redid my 9A . Great paint I went to a art store
& bought some real good paint brushes to use & the paint
is self leveling . I made the mistake of putting mine back
together after a couple of days . When & if I ever decide to
do it again I'll let it sit & harden for a couple of weeks .
If you can't find the pic just ask & someone will pipe up with
the info of where it's at . Great forum probably a couple thousand
years of South Bend lathe experience there .
good luck , & remember pictures or it never happened .
animal
On 7/25/23 2:50 PM, Jefferson wrote:
I just bought my first lathe (9" 744 A 167045) and I have some
questions. It is covered with surface rust, and the motor has been
disconnected.
1) Does anyone have a wiring diagram to connect the motor (GE
5kc63ab776) to the barrel switch and a power cord?
2) Is the ILION rebuild kit and "Guide to Renovating" (Amazon $80)
the way I should proceed?
3) What gray (It was originally gray right?) brush-able paint
would you recommend?
Thanks in advance,
|
Re: First lathe rebuild questions
Join up over here , they have a SOuth Bend lathe specific form .
In either the Sticky topic or the one below it for links should
have a picture of the label of a can of paint mixed up at Sherwin
Williams . The whole paint recipe is on the label in the pic . I
used it when I redid my 9A . Great paint I went to a art store
& bought some real good paint brushes to use & the paint
is self leveling . I made the mistake of putting mine back
together after a couple of days . When & if I ever decide to
do it again I'll let it sit & harden for a couple of weeks .
If you can't find the pic just ask & someone will pipe up with
the info of where it's at . Great forum probably a couple thousand
years of South Bend lathe experience there .
good luck , & remember pictures or it never happened .
animal
On 7/25/23 2:50 PM, Jefferson wrote:
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Show quoted text
I just bought my first lathe (9" 744 A 167045) and I have some
questions. It is covered with surface rust, and the motor has been
disconnected.
1) Does anyone have a wiring diagram to connect the motor (GE
5kc63ab776) to the barrel switch and a power cord?
2) Is the ILION rebuild kit and "Guide to Renovating" (Amazon $80)
the way I should proceed?
3) What gray (It was originally gray right?) brush-able paint
would you recommend?
Thanks in advance,
|
First lathe rebuild questions
I just bought my first lathe (9" 744 A 167045) and I have some questions. It is covered with surface rust, and the motor has been disconnected.
1) Does anyone have a wiring diagram to connect the motor (GE 5kc63ab776) to the barrel switch and a power cord?
2) Is the ILION rebuild kit and "Guide to Renovating" (Amazon $80) the way I should proceed?
3) What gray (It was originally gray right?) brush-able paint would you recommend?
Thanks in advance,
|
Thanks for clearing that up!
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On Jul 11, 2023, at 5:27 PM, William Nelson <wnnelson@...> wrote:
?Well it's entirely my fault. I sent it with Verizon spelled with a S instead of the required Z. Got it all cleared up with Jared now.?
--
Bill From Socal
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Well it's entirely my fault. I sent it with Verizon spelled with a S instead of the required Z. Got it all cleared up with Jared now.?
--
Bill From Socal
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On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 11:36 AM, William Nelson wrote:
Did he say if he received any correspondence from them? You would think they would at least say thanks for the order.
--
Bill From Socal
He said that MLA has new ownership so maybe there's transition hiccups?
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Did he say if he received any correspondence from them? You would think they would at least say thanks for the order.
--
Bill From Socal
|
PayPal will refund you. Just ask for it.
Get
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Don't send any money to MLA. I've sent in a order and have not heard from them after I paided with PayPal. No email or anything to say they got my order and funds. ?
--
Bill From Socal
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A Hobby Machinist member just bought and received the die filer kit from MLA. No issues whatsoever.
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On Jul 11, 2023, at 10:29 AM, William Nelson <wnnelson@...> wrote:
Don't send any money to MLA. I've sent in a order and have not heard from them after I paided with PayPal. No email or anything to say they got my order and funds. ?
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Bill From Socal
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Don't send any money to MLA. I've sent in a order and have not heard from them after I paided with PayPal. No email or anything to say they got my order and funds. ?
--
Bill From Socal
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I sent a email to them probably 5 months ago and didn't hear anything so feared the worse. Your welcome and I hope they get lots of business from this crowd. I'm getting the cross slide to which I'm going to fit some large dials all the numbers have shrank to the point I have to get up close and personal to read them.
--
Bill From Socal
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Hi Bill,
Many thanks for the posting - greatly appreciated!
Kind regards, DBN aka John
On Saturday, July 8, 2023 at 11:33:29 AM EDT, William Nelson <wnnelson@...> wrote:
I received a email from MLA tools? http://mlatoolbox.com/index.html so it appears they are still in business. I did send in payment for 2 items we will see how it goes.
Andy Lofquist, founder of Metal Lathe Accessories, decided it was time to pass the ownership of the business onto my brother Jared and me.
Andy is still involved with Metal Lathe Accessories but has moved into the role of mentor.
Jared and I will continue to offer the quality kits and instructions that Andy has been providing the machining community for all these years. We appreciate your patience during this transitionary period and look forward to many more of years of Metal Lathe Accessories. For your convenience, I have included our pricing for the requested items below.?If you are still interested, payment can be made via Payal at?mlatoolbox@...
Once you provide a shipping address along with payment, we will process your order.?Thanks again and we look?forward?to hearing from you!?
Pass this along to whoever you think will be interested.
-- Bill From Socal
|
I received a email from MLA tools? http://mlatoolbox.com/index.html so it appears they are still in business. I did send in payment for 2 items we will see how it goes.
Andy Lofquist, founder of Metal Lathe Accessories, decided it was time to pass the ownership of the business onto my brother Jared and me.
Andy is still involved with Metal Lathe Accessories but has moved into the role of mentor.
Jared and I will continue to offer the quality kits and instructions that Andy has been providing the machining community for all these years. We appreciate your patience during this transitionary period and look forward to many more of years of Metal Lathe Accessories. For your convenience, I have included our pricing for the requested items below.?If you are still interested, payment can be made via Payal at?mlatoolbox@...
Once you provide a shipping address along with payment, we will process your order.?Thanks again and we look?forward?to hearing from you!?
Pass this along to whoever you think will be interested.
-- Bill From Socal
|
I second the ilion book
animal
On 7/3/23 8:29 PM, John Burt wrote:
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Bill,
Those gears that mesh with the tumbler gears are not keyed to the
shaft. They are part of a progressive reduction as they go from
the input end of the gearbox to the center. That tumbler selects
where you are tapping into that reduction chain and then it
transfers that rotation via the tumbler gear shaft over to one of
the cone gears in the other half of the gearbox. If I remember
right, you have pairs of gears tied together -- a big one and a
little one -- to get a reduction and then motion is transferred
between these gear pairs back and forth from one shaft to the
other. The result is that as you get closer to the center of the
gearbox, the reduction causes the gears to be spinning slower at
each step. So E, F, G are the slowest (most reduced) positions.
I don't remember how the gear pairs are held together -- maybe
they're pinned. So if I got this right, then maybe there's either
a stripped gear that's ending the reduction chain, or possibly one
of the pairs' coupling (pin?) is broken, which could also end the
reduction chain.
You should be able to unplug your lathe, make sure your apron is
in neutral, engage the lead screw select lever to either forward
or reverse, turn your chuck by hand, and you can peek into the
bottom of the gearbox to see where the motion is stopping and
whether it's a stripped gear.
If you've never cleaned and re-felted your gearbox to assure that
everything is getting lubricated, this might be a good time to do
that. But it takes a lot of disassembly, possibly including
removal of the headstock. I recommend the Ilion book & felt
kit if you do this.
John
_._,_._,_
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It’s on the Southbendheavy10 group, in the files section. In a subdirectory containing files from the old southbendheavy10files group.?
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On Jul 4, 2023, at 10:13 AM, Robert Bradley <rcbradley@...> wrote:
?Where can we find the first part of the Steve wells rebuild pdf?
--
Jim B
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Bill, Are you sure about E,F & G not working or could it be just F & G? ?I think F & G share one compound gear and I can see losing those two ranges if their?compound gear has a problem. ?If you lost E as well, I’d think D wouldn’t be working also.
Thanks, George H. Meinschein, P.E.
Firearm and Ballistics Engineering LLC 150 Brittany Drive Freehold, NJ 07728 gmeinschein@... Cell#: 732-580-1736
Sent from Proton Mail for iOS
On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 9:05 PM, bill tober via groups.io < iwirewrt@...> wrote: Hi group, Over the years now in then I need the use of my wide rangedouble tumber gear box for cutting screw threads. The problem is I do not have rotation to my lead screw in? E,F,G speeds only A -D speeds. Could it be a broken key in the 3large power gears? I read some where only the first 2 large gears are keyed.Need your thoughts Bill
--
-George M.
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Where can we find the first part of the Steve wells rebuild pdf?
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Bill,
Those gears that mesh with the tumbler gears are not keyed to the shaft. They are part of a progressive reduction as they go from the input end of the gearbox to the center. That tumbler selects where you are tapping into that reduction chain and then it transfers that rotation via the tumbler gear shaft over to one of the cone gears in the other half of the gearbox. If I remember right, you have pairs of gears tied together -- a big one and a little one -- to get a reduction and then motion is transferred between these gear pairs back and forth from one shaft to the other. The result is that as you get closer to the center of the gearbox, the reduction causes the gears to be spinning slower at each step. So E, F, G are the slowest (most reduced) positions.
I don't remember how the gear pairs are held together -- maybe they're pinned. So if I got this right, then maybe there's either a stripped gear that's ending the reduction chain, or possibly one of the pairs' coupling (pin?) is broken, which could also end the reduction chain.
You should be able to unplug your lathe, make sure your apron is in neutral, engage the lead screw select lever to either forward or reverse, turn your chuck by hand, and you can peek into the bottom of the gearbox to see where the motion is stopping and whether it's a stripped gear.
If you've never cleaned and re-felted your gearbox to assure that everything is getting lubricated, this might be a good time to do that. But it takes a lot of disassembly, possibly including removal of the headstock. I recommend the Ilion book & felt kit if you do this.
John
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Jim_B