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Reflecting on age, health and changing priorities, we were debating putting Solace on the market. She spent last year on the hard while we rebuilt our cottage, sold the house and adjusted to retirement after a half century of intensely high pressure careers (labor and employment attorney and nursing director.) It’s not fair to sideline a beautiful thoroughbred that’s been part of our family for 22 years. The demand for a survey by BOAT US/Geico as a condition of renewal last week was the tipping point. I spoke to GEICO and explained that the boat was in secure land storage and asked for alternatives or a 12 month waiver of the survey. They were polite but inflexible, then offered to continue the current policy through the current term without the survey. I thanked them for the kind offer of the sleeves from their vest. The rep was still confused when I thanked her for her time and ended the conversation. Once I get Solace cleaned up and inventoried, more will follow. Pete Solace, 1988 30 Mk III

Good morning, all. I've done a forum search for a propane conversion on a 34-2 Targa, but haven't found a thread I thought I'd seen before. Can anyone confirm that 6 pound tanks will fit in the lockers in a 34-2 Targa? I've found some comments on the net suggesting that they will, but no photos. -- 1990 Sabre 34-2 Aft Cabin "Ingalina" Bath, ME

I have removed a leaky fixed port on my 38-1 for re-bedding. It’s the original style with the aluminum frame on the outside as discussed below. I have also read the “Instructions to Rebed Sabre 28 Main Cabin Windows”. I would like to do the job following the factory guidelines but am unsure of a few procedures. 1. There is no mention of glazing vinyl or gaskets, but my window clearly has at least two. One poster said he bought 3/16 glazing vinyl #D752. Another mentions acquiring window molding from Catalina Direct. I’m pretty sure I recall Phil Horn stating he researched, purchased and installed the original material and even attached a photo of it during his glass replacement. However, I am unable to find that post. I am hoping those who have experience with this project can shed some light (no pun intended) on the correct products and where to acquire them. And, Phil, if you are following, please respond. 2. The bead of caulking on the outside of the window and the aluminum frame is described as a silicone bead on the factory instructions for the 28. The bead on my windows is rather wide and ugly. It’s silver/gray after all these years, and I’m unsure if it’s original. I’d like to use a smaller width bead of black silicone against the glass and the frame for a much neater look and a bead of white around the frame and the surrounding cabin top wall. I’m thinking a 1/8” bead, maybe even a 1/16” bead which is about the thickness of the frame, but I’m not sure if the thinner bead would compromise the seal. I’m open to suggestions. 3. One poster recommends Permatex Windshield Sealer and details the procedure he followed very carefully. I’m wondering how the Permatext has been holding up in the harsh marine environment. 4. I’m also considering painting or powder coating the frame and eventually all the frames. I’ve used Interlux Perfection Hatteras Off White on my overhead hatches and the color matches the gelcoat nicely. Again, any advice or alternatives would be appreciated. Don Fleming Duet S-38-1 #77 Hudson River toggle quoted messageShow quoted text

Before I purchase a tube of seacock grease I thought I would check with the forum on the possibility of using a tube of NLGI Grade 2 Lithium grease that I have hanging around. This is a medium density non-hydrocarbon grease. I also have a tube of Lewmar Geargrease made with Calcium Sulphonate. Thoughts? Thanks, Dave G Serenade 1983 S-34-1 #184 NB, Canada

I am stripping and varnishing all the brightwork on my 362 and am considering removing the factory installed plastic fillet where the caprail meets the deck. It's a mess after years of use and several prior efforts to varnish without good clean-up. I imagine that it's opening up a can of worms so I thought I'd ask you folks what you've discovered if you've done this work yourselves? Was it bonded with 5200? Remove with a heatgun or chemical stripper? Thanks, Tom Malone Sabre 362 #173 Port Townsend, WA

We have a 1981 34 hull #113 and are going to redo our cove stripe. The "S" had been missing so I have nothing to duplicate. I was wondering if anyone knows of a template I could use? What are the dimensions of the "S"? Judy Ambrosius

Hi All, I just removed a Martec 16”diameter, 12” pitch folding prop. It’s in great shape, just replace the 4 cotter pins (original included) and you are good. Coming off a Sabre 36, 1” shaft, RH thread. $200 shipped to you (Conus). -- Michael Henning 1985 S36 Caper Allen Harbor, RI

On my 362 there’s a space between the hull and the refrigerator that would benefit from better insulation. I was thinking of making a hole (or two) in the bottom of the food storage bin, located above this space, and squirting insulation foam inside this space. I was wondering if anyone has done this, what their results were, what type of foam they used, and how much? Thank you, Jay “Elizabeth Belle” #212 -- Jay Flynn “Elizabeth Belle” Sabre 362 1999 #212

Hi All, I just had my insurance survey. Glad to say all went well, except that the surveyor identified what looks like hairline cracks on the inside of one of the “open style” cap shroud turnbuckles and a similar line on the inside of one of the lower shroud turnbuckles. My rigger says it is unlikely to be a crack on that style of turnbuckle body, but he hasn’t seen it yet. Since I’m going to take the boat to sea, I am willing to change them all out an I am looking at Hayn 3/8”-24 x 5-1/2 and 1/2”- 20 x 6-1/2” bodies, but don’t know if these have the correct threads for the rod rigging ends on a Sabre 38 Mk2. Does anyone know exactly what the normal thread pitch is? -- Pete Waterson “Chardonnay” S38-2 Oriental, NC

Hi all, I've been holding off on LFP battery conversion but the tariff thing is alarming so I'm considering the substantial purchase of an Epoch 12V 460Ah V2 Elite Series battery for our 362. Does anyone know if this particular Group D size battery fits under the starboard berth? This battery is quite a bit taller than the Group 31s I have in there now (and I'm away from the boat and can't measure). I realize there's more to LFP conversion than swapping the battery. Thanks, Bill Graves 2003 S362 #261 'Souwester' Marblehead, MA

So, I save up, buy a new Raymarine Axiom+9RV and Quantum 2 Doppler radar combo, they will be wired in next week sometime...only to take the boat out Wednesday and notice my wind direction indicator works but the speed cups are not moving. No wind speed data. What are my options? I can't seem to find just a replacement for the wind direction indicator and the anemometer at the top of the mast. (I don't want to buy used. Don't really know what I would be getting.) Anyone know if this - guessing - 10 plus year Datamarine display at the helm would connect to newer Raymarine atop the mast? I am guessing, just guessing, the current signal is 0183? I know they make a 0183 to NEMA 2000, do they make a NEMA 2000 to 0183 going the other direction? - AND OR - does my current Datamarine display connect to the current SeaTalk or RayNet? If so, can I buy just a new arm with wind direction and speed cups? The local electronics tech is about to move the birds nest of connections of my SeaTalk from under the starboard v-birth to the storage locker up near the companion way. So now would be the time to fix this, adding a little scope creep to my install project. So, is it time to bite an even bigger bullet and replace the whole thing for a project cost of almost $2K.Please someone give me a good answer to save some dollars here! My running riggers suggested I go wireless and use the new Axiom+9RV as the display. But, that seems to be a crowded display in that scenario? Bottom pic, Nav screen, adding wind speed and direction too? I just want and wish wish I could just use my existing Datamarine display at the helm and only replace what is needed topside the mast. **ALSO - side note - I just bought a new Airmar P79 Transducer (internal) to give me bottom views and depth for the Axiom+9RV. Anyone have any experience with how well that will or won't work? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated ! Verne Sabre 32 "About Time" MYC - Mobile Al

Our Hurth-Kanzaki KBW-10 transmission has developed a massive oil leak from the output shaft. We're now on the hard, and I'm looking to pull the transmission to service over winter. Has anyone done this? The bottom two bolts are quite inaccessible and it's looking like I'll need to jack up the rear of the Yanmar, complicating an otherwise straightforward job. We're also replacing the PSS. What is best practice to pull the flange from the prop shaft? I've disconnected and pulled it back, but the flange on is pretty solid. If I use a puller to get it off, how best to get it reinstalled? Thanks in advance. /Ed -- SV Enigma, Sabre 362 #199 Lake Erie @ Sandusky, OH

Wondering what folks are paying for an insurance survey these days? I was just quoted $32 per foot which seemed a bit steep from my last one but that was 10 years ago.