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Somewhere on MarineHowTo.com there is an article about strainers. The biggest problem with strainers is bottom paint, successive coats of paint gradually close off the holes or slots reducing water

I did this repair about 5 years ago. I got ahold of teak and holly with a 1/4" teak strip. With a 1/8" router bit and a guide I removed 1/2 of the teak strip and laid in a strip of ash which matches

Does anyone know of a teak and holly pattern that matches what we have in our Sabre boats. For me, I need some sole repairs around the mast in my 1990 S38-2. Randy Goodman Red Frog Virginia Beach

Tim, I have one of these https://defender.com/en_us/groco-sc-series-slotted-strainer over the forward and aft A/C intake thru hulls, which also have a Groco strainer basket inside, but not on the raw

Tim, first off, great description of what sounds like a fine sail south! Thanks for sharing. Would you clarify something...My intake has a slotted screen over it and the kelp I know in southern

We have the Groco stainers on our engine and ac/watermaker intakes and have had zero problems with them. I also had them on our previous boat also. I'm a big believer in them. Just anytime you do

A few days ago White Rose took me from San Francisco Bay to Santa Barbara. ? There's nothing to beat repeated 10 knot surfs on a broad reach in a steady force 6 whilst feeling the boat perfectly

Dynema is stronger. Lasts longer unless there is abrasion. Tony Tony Billera tony.billera@... 206 605 2650 linkedin.com/in/tonybillera Please consider the environment before printing this email.

My nickels worth. Aside from either your centerboard or case being somehow water swollen or debris lodged in the top of the case or too many built up layers of bottom paint. ? the bronze worm gear

The centerboard is a pretty tight fit in any event. I leave mine 1/3 of the way down, or more. It is almost always better to replace parts with the same kind of parts as originally designed. Trust

FWIW: The [a?] tech fellow at Ocean Planet told me about the +5V issue with Victron controllers, and for lower voltage panels he recommended the Genasun Boost controllers. Seemingly they can increase

What kind of charger were you using before and how large was it? Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

Lst year replaced my centerboard cable with Dyneema.? SO far , so good? ? ?BUT ater thoroughly clearing all barnacles, and crud, it still seems to get stuck if I crank all the way up.? Had it in

It always has a surface charge when we show up, so initially it is 13.0-13.5v. If we turn on a load for a few minutes it settles down to 12.6-12.8. The 4D FLA is going strong on season 4. We were

That’s very interesting and informative. Thanks. . Did a search and found the info : “Do I always need a charge controller? Not always, but usually. Generally, there is no need for a charge

There are too many Davids and Brians. In an early post I thought we were talking about Brian’s (Nauset Beach) new LFP installation. For small wattage solar panels the Victron Controllers are not a

That’s great Jim. I had one of the first gen till the old non LI batteries died. The owner/founder was a Sonicare engineer. Good fellow. We need more power and bought the new Torquedo 3 hp.

Not much of a war when Allison and I start on the same side. On a completely different subject, I decided to buy an EP Carry, though to fudge I'm keeping my 6 HP Mercury 4 stroke on the rail. One

Yes. Those are my choice as well. Definitely should have a controller. Tony Tony Billera tony.billera@... 206 605 2650 linkedin.com/in/tonybillera Please consider the environment before printing

MPPT unit from Victron works great.