Re: 362 Rudder Bearing Replacement
a lot like Delrin
On 4/6/2025 11:52 AM, Michael Sterling
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The drawing attached earlier called for UHMW, which is "
ultra high molecular weight polyethylene ".
A hard slippery plastic.?
Mike
s/v Ladylike?
Michael Sterling
Ph. 252-646-9610
On Sun, Apr 6, 2025, 11:49?AM
Roger Kuebel 362#150 Padanaram, MA via
<rogerkuebel= [email protected]>
wrote:
Does anyone know what material the Tides bearings are
made from?
yes
Attached is bearing drawing
Rudder Bearing Replacement -- Labor to: measure rudder
tube, bearings, rudder shaft, send information to
bearing manufacturer and owner. Order two new bearings
and one thrust bearing washer. Prep interior surface
of rudder tube in worn areas, then apply 3 coats of
Pettit Protect (2 part epoxy paint) to make rudder
tube smaller and fit new bearing snug. Fill/ fair
bottom edge of bearing flange for smooth finish
surface. Install new bearings with thickened epoxy
(from bottom and top), and fit rudder shaft into
place. Align Rudder with trailing edge of keel prior
to epoxy hardening. Reassemble rudder quadrant and
tension steering cables.
16.5 hr @ $55.00?? $907.50
Color Restoring & Waxing Hull -- Labor to: tape
off bottom paint, and preform an efficient process of
applying compound and power buff/ wax topsides of the
hull. Hand wipe to remove excess wax and remove tape.?
7.25 hr @ $53.00?? $384.25
On 4/6/2025 10:04 AM, Roger Kuebel 362#150
Padanaram, MA via wrote:
Dave,
Did Tides make your new ones?
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
Boyz
1. My yard epoxied the bearings in but I share
Roger's concern about if they ever have to come
out again.? Except, at my age for better or worse,
not likely my problem.? Sailing in deep Maine
waters, not a lot of sediment get kicked up.? Yard
said they were installed with a parsimonious
amount of 5200.? The bottom one had come loose
(crossing Gulf of Maine to Nova Scotia of course),
that's what alerted me to problem.
I believe my boat spent some of its early life in
dirty water ( . . .. .oh Boston your my home).?
Damage photo below.
2. I would check with Tides on the fit.? Mine were
not tight.
On 4/6/2025 9:45 AM, Roger Kuebel 362#150
Padanaram, MA via wrote:
Barry,
?
Attached are the specs for the bearing.? I
got this from Glen Chaplin at Sabre.? The photos
I referred to are the ones Dave Short sent.? As
you saw in Dave's photos, the lower bearing is
mounted flush with the hull, and was epoxied
in.? Tides Marine, who made my bearings (and I
believe also made the originals) also said to
epoxy them in.? However, my original ones were
installed with 5200, which is what Glen also
said for the replacements.? My inclination is to
use 5200, as once epoxied I don't think they
could be removed without damage to the hull
tube.?
?
As noted in my prior post on the topic, I am
having an issue with the bearings being really
tight on the rudder post.? Yesterday I sanded
the rudder post to ensure it was perfectly
smooth, and although I could get the bearings on
by warming them slightly, once they cooled to
the ambient temp (mid 40s here on the MA south
coast) they became so tight I could not turn
them by hand.? I'm still trying to figure out
what to do.
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
|
Re: 362 Rudder Bearing Replacement
The drawing attached earlier called for UHMW, which is " ultra high molecular weight polyethylene ". A hard slippery plastic.? Mike s/v Ladylike?
Michael Sterling
Ph. 252-646-9610
On Sun, Apr 6, 2025, 11:49?AM Roger Kuebel 362#150 Padanaram, MA via <rogerkuebel= [email protected]> wrote:
Does anyone know what material the Tides bearings are made from?
yes
Attached is bearing drawing
Rudder Bearing Replacement -- Labor to: measure rudder tube, bearings, rudder shaft, send information to bearing manufacturer and owner. Order two new bearings and one thrust bearing washer. Prep interior surface of rudder tube in worn areas, then apply 3 coats
of Pettit Protect (2 part epoxy paint) to make rudder tube smaller and fit new bearing snug. Fill/ fair bottom edge of bearing flange for smooth finish surface. Install new bearings with thickened epoxy (from bottom and top), and fit rudder shaft into place.
Align Rudder with trailing edge of keel prior to epoxy hardening. Reassemble rudder quadrant and tension steering cables.
16.5 hr @ $55.00?? $907.50
Color Restoring & Waxing Hull -- Labor to: tape off bottom paint, and preform an efficient process of applying compound and power buff/ wax topsides of the hull. Hand wipe to remove excess wax and remove tape.?
7.25 hr @ $53.00?? $384.25
On 4/6/2025 10:04 AM, Roger Kuebel 362#150 Padanaram, MA via wrote:
Dave,
Did Tides make your new ones?
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
Boyz
1. My yard epoxied the bearings in but I share Roger's concern about if they ever have to come out again.? Except, at my age for better or worse, not likely my problem.? Sailing in deep Maine waters, not a lot of sediment get kicked up.? Yard said they were
installed with a parsimonious amount of 5200.? The bottom one had come loose (crossing Gulf of Maine to Nova Scotia of course), that's what alerted me to problem.
I believe my boat spent some of its early life in dirty water ( . . .. .oh Boston your my home).? Damage photo below.
2. I would check with Tides on the fit.? Mine were not tight.
On 4/6/2025 9:45 AM, Roger Kuebel 362#150 Padanaram, MA via wrote:
Barry,
?
Attached are the specs for the bearing.? I got this from Glen Chaplin at Sabre.? The photos I referred to are the ones Dave Short sent.? As you saw in Dave's photos, the lower bearing is mounted
flush with the hull, and was epoxied in.? Tides Marine, who made my bearings (and I believe also made the originals) also said to epoxy them in.? However, my original ones were installed with 5200, which is what Glen also said for the replacements.? My inclination
is to use 5200, as once epoxied I don't think they could be removed without damage to the hull tube.?
?
As noted in my prior post on the topic, I am having an issue with the bearings being really tight on the rudder post.? Yesterday I sanded the rudder post to ensure it was perfectly smooth, and although
I could get the bearings on by warming them slightly, once they cooled to the ambient temp (mid 40s here on the MA south coast) they became so tight I could not turn them by hand.? I'm still trying to figure out what to do.
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
|
Re: 362 Rudder Bearing Replacement
Does anyone know what material the Tides bearings are made from?
yes
Attached is bearing drawing
Rudder Bearing Replacement -- Labor to: measure rudder tube, bearings, rudder shaft, send information to bearing manufacturer and owner. Order two new bearings and one thrust bearing washer. Prep interior surface of rudder tube in worn areas, then apply 3 coats
of Pettit Protect (2 part epoxy paint) to make rudder tube smaller and fit new bearing snug. Fill/ fair bottom edge of bearing flange for smooth finish surface. Install new bearings with thickened epoxy (from bottom and top), and fit rudder shaft into place.
Align Rudder with trailing edge of keel prior to epoxy hardening. Reassemble rudder quadrant and tension steering cables.
16.5 hr @ $55.00?? $907.50
Color Restoring & Waxing Hull -- Labor to: tape off bottom paint, and preform an efficient process of applying compound and power buff/ wax topsides of the hull. Hand wipe to remove excess wax and remove tape.?
7.25 hr @ $53.00?? $384.25
On 4/6/2025 10:04 AM, Roger Kuebel 362#150 Padanaram, MA via groups.io wrote:
Dave,
Did Tides make your new ones?
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
Boyz
1. My yard epoxied the bearings in but I share Roger's concern about if they ever have to come out again.? Except, at my age for better or worse, not likely my problem.? Sailing in deep Maine waters, not a lot of sediment get kicked up.? Yard said they were
installed with a parsimonious amount of 5200.? The bottom one had come loose (crossing Gulf of Maine to Nova Scotia of course), that's what alerted me to problem.
I believe my boat spent some of its early life in dirty water ( . . .. .oh Boston your my home).? Damage photo below.
2. I would check with Tides on the fit.? Mine were not tight.
On 4/6/2025 9:45 AM, Roger Kuebel 362#150 Padanaram, MA via groups.io wrote:
Barry,
?
Attached are the specs for the bearing.? I got this from Glen Chaplin at Sabre.? The photos I referred to are the ones Dave Short sent.? As you saw in Dave's photos, the lower bearing is mounted
flush with the hull, and was epoxied in.? Tides Marine, who made my bearings (and I believe also made the originals) also said to epoxy them in.? However, my original ones were installed with 5200, which is what Glen also said for the replacements.? My inclination
is to use 5200, as once epoxied I don't think they could be removed without damage to the hull tube.?
?
As noted in my prior post on the topic, I am having an issue with the bearings being really tight on the rudder post.? Yesterday I sanded the rudder post to ensure it was perfectly smooth, and although
I could get the bearings on by warming them slightly, once they cooled to the ambient temp (mid 40s here on the MA south coast) they became so tight I could not turn them by hand.? I'm still trying to figure out what to do.
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
-- Roger Kuebel RestlessS362#150 Padanaram, MA
|
Re: 362 Rudder Bearing Replacement
yes
Attached is bearing drawing
Rudder Bearing Replacement -- Labor to: measure rudder tube,
bearings, rudder shaft, send information to bearing manufacturer and
owner. Order two new bearings and one thrust bearing washer. Prep
interior surface of rudder tube in worn areas, then apply 3 coats of
Pettit Protect (2 part epoxy paint) to make rudder tube smaller and
fit new bearing snug. Fill/ fair bottom edge of bearing flange for
smooth finish surface. Install new bearings with thickened epoxy
(from bottom and top), and fit rudder shaft into place. Align Rudder
with trailing edge of keel prior to epoxy hardening. Reassemble
rudder quadrant and tension steering cables.
16.5 hr @ $55.00?? $907.50
Color Restoring & Waxing Hull -- Labor to: tape off bottom
paint, and preform an efficient process of applying compound and
power buff/ wax topsides of the hull. Hand wipe to remove excess wax
and remove tape.?
7.25 hr @ $53.00?? $384.25
On 4/6/2025 10:04 AM, Roger Kuebel
362#150 Padanaram, MA via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Dave,
Did Tides make your new ones?
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
Boyz
1. My yard epoxied the bearings in but I share Roger's
concern about if they ever have to come out again.? Except,
at my age for better or worse, not likely my problem.?
Sailing in deep Maine waters, not a lot of sediment get
kicked up.? Yard said they were installed with a
parsimonious amount of 5200.? The bottom one had come loose
(crossing Gulf of Maine to Nova Scotia of course), that's
what alerted me to problem.
I believe my boat spent some of its early life in dirty
water ( . . .. .oh Boston your my home).? Damage photo
below.
2. I would check with Tides on the fit.? Mine were not
tight.
On 4/6/2025 9:45 AM, Roger Kuebel
362#150 Padanaram, MA via groups.io wrote:
Barry,
?
Attached
are the specs for the bearing.? I got this from Glen
Chaplin at Sabre.? The photos I referred to are the ones
Dave Short sent.? As you saw in Dave's photos, the lower
bearing is mounted flush with the hull, and was epoxied
in.? Tides Marine, who made my bearings (and I believe
also made the originals) also said to epoxy them in.?
However, my original ones were installed with 5200, which
is what Glen also said for the replacements.? My
inclination is to use 5200, as once epoxied I don't think
they could be removed without damage to the hull tube.?
?
As
noted in my prior post on the topic, I am having an issue
with the bearings being really tight on the rudder post.?
Yesterday I sanded the rudder post to ensure it was
perfectly smooth, and although I could get the bearings on
by warming them slightly, once they cooled to the ambient
temp (mid 40s here on the MA south coast) they became so
tight I could not turn them by hand.? I'm still trying to
figure out what to do.
--
Roger
Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
|
Re: 362 Rudder Bearing Replacement
Dave,
Did Tides make your new ones?
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
Boyz
1. My yard epoxied the bearings in but I share Roger's concern about if they ever have to come out again.? Except, at my age for better or worse, not likely my problem.? Sailing in deep Maine waters, not a lot of sediment get kicked up.? Yard said they were
installed with a parsimonious amount of 5200.? The bottom one had come loose (crossing Gulf of Maine to Nova Scotia of course), that's what alerted me to problem.
I believe my boat spent some of its early life in dirty water ( . . .. .oh Boston your my home).? Damage photo below.
2. I would check with Tides on the fit.? Mine were not tight.
On 4/6/2025 9:45 AM, Roger Kuebel 362#150 Padanaram, MA via groups.io wrote:
Barry,
?
Attached are the specs for the bearing.? I got this from Glen Chaplin at Sabre.? The photos I referred to are the ones Dave Short sent.? As you saw in Dave's photos, the lower bearing is mounted
flush with the hull, and was epoxied in.? Tides Marine, who made my bearings (and I believe also made the originals) also said to epoxy them in.? However, my original ones were installed with 5200, which is what Glen also said for the replacements.? My inclination
is to use 5200, as once epoxied I don't think they could be removed without damage to the hull tube.?
?
As noted in my prior post on the topic, I am having an issue with the bearings being really tight on the rudder post.? Yesterday I sanded the rudder post to ensure it was perfectly smooth, and although
I could get the bearings on by warming them slightly, once they cooled to the ambient temp (mid 40s here on the MA south coast) they became so tight I could not turn them by hand.? I'm still trying to figure out what to do.
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
-- Roger Kuebel RestlessS362#150 Padanaram, MA
|
Re: 362 Rudder Bearing Replacement
Boyz
1. My yard epoxied the bearings in but I share Roger's concern about
if they ever have to come out again.? Except, at my age for better
or worse, not likely my problem.? Sailing in deep Maine waters, not
a lot of sediment get kicked up.? Yard said they were installed with
a parsimonious amount of 5200.? The bottom one had come loose
(crossing Gulf of Maine to Nova Scotia of course), that's what
alerted me to problem.
I believe my boat spent some of its early life in dirty water ( .
. .. .oh Boston your my home).? Damage photo below.
2. I would check with Tides on the fit.? Mine were not tight.
On 4/6/2025 9:45 AM, Roger Kuebel
362#150 Padanaram, MA via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Barry,
?
Attached are the specs for the bearing.? I got this from Glen
Chaplin at Sabre.? The photos I referred to are the ones Dave
Short sent.? As you saw in Dave's photos, the lower bearing is
mounted flush with the hull, and was epoxied in.? Tides Marine,
who made my bearings (and I believe also made the originals)
also said to epoxy them in.? However, my original ones were
installed with 5200, which is what Glen also said for the
replacements.? My inclination is to use 5200, as once epoxied I
don't think they could be removed without damage to the hull
tube.?
?
As noted in my prior post on the topic, I am having an issue
with the bearings being really tight on the rudder post.?
Yesterday I sanded the rudder post to ensure it was perfectly
smooth, and although I could get the bearings on by warming them
slightly, once they cooled to the ambient temp (mid 40s here on
the MA south coast) they became so tight I could not turn them
by hand.? I'm still trying to figure out what to do.
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
|
Re: 362 Rudder Bearing Replacement
Barry,
?
Attached are the specs for the bearing.? I got this from Glen Chaplin at Sabre.? The photos I referred to are the ones Dave Short sent.? As you saw in Dave's photos, the lower bearing is mounted flush with the hull, and was epoxied in.? Tides Marine, who made my bearings (and I believe also made the originals) also said to epoxy them in.? However, my original ones were installed with 5200, which is what Glen also said for the replacements.? My inclination is to use 5200, as once epoxied I don't think they could be removed without damage to the hull tube.?
?
As noted in my prior post on the topic, I am having an issue with the bearings being really tight on the rudder post.? Yesterday I sanded the rudder post to ensure it was perfectly smooth, and although I could get the bearings on by warming them slightly, once they cooled to the ambient temp (mid 40s here on the MA south coast) they became so tight I could not turn them by hand.? I'm still trying to figure out what to do.
--
Roger Kuebel
Restless
S362#150
Padanaram, MA
|
Re: Replcement SeaTalk GPS sensor
Jim and Terry:
?
Certainly there is more than one way to skin a cat. However, what I understood from Terry’s initial message was that the idea was to avoid spending the money associated with purchasing an N2K/Seatalk ng GPS and its associated network, yet have a GPS Data Engine that would work and not have the GPS Week Rollover (Date & Time) issue. Cost being the motivator, the SCU-31 was in my opinion, a good way to go. This should not entail much additional work, because the Seatalk 1 Cable of the E80 carries power and is only about 3ft long, so it’s right there.
I then found out that the Chartplotter was an E80 and this opened up the possibility of creating an N2K/Seatalk ng network, which would be useful going forward when the system was updated. The GPS sensor could be a Raymarine, Garmin or other brand, it doesn’t really matter (But stay away from the B&G ZG100 - which we have had issues with in the past when mixed with Raymarine gear). But yes, setting up a basic N2K/STng network must be done and can be accomplished with the parts which I specified.
I also cautioned that if there was a Green LED on the RS125, the issue may not be with the RS125, but with one of the other Seatalk1 instruments on the system.?
I would totally disagree about the E85001, the wire sizes it accepts can be small and subject to breakage, but that would be the choice of the installer, as it was designed with connection to Seatalk 1 cables in mind. It was a very versatile little box, which allowed connection between Seatalk 1, NMEA 0183 and RS232. To this day, it is what we use to convert the NMEA0183 output from our Raymarine AIS 350 receiver that feeds to a Mini Pc and then uploads AIS Data (that must be in 0183 or RS232 format) to Marine Traffic for our area. It was a used take out from an upgrade on a boat when I repurposed it and has been running like a champ 24/7/360 for the last 3 or 4 years at least!
As far as feeding NMEA to a VHF radio, there should easily be enough “fan out” to parallel up the wires going from the SCU-31 to both the E80 and the VHF. It is quite acceptable to feed two listeners from one talker.
?
--
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
|
Thanks for the kind remarks, Phil. The yard in Coruna, Spain does really excellent work. Highly professional operation. We'll see how things look after sailing back home (by late July.)
Gerald (Jerry) Brecher SIRACH 1982 Sabre 38 MK I Home port Gloucester, Massachusetts 488 Pleasant Street
North Andover, MA 01845 USA
mobile: 617-510-5133
|
I may be in the minority that did the project without removing the foam and sole and felt no need to replace the entire bulkhead.
Hull 289, 28-2 from 1977. Restored in 2018. She had been repaired at the main bulkhead prior to my purchase. I reviewed with multiple specialist and the force is downward with the deck stepped mast. The prior repair clearly replaced the bottom of the bulkhead and replaced rhe compression post with an aluminum square tube cut to length. With the mast off it could be taken out. With it on, it did not budge. Hopefully you can see it in the first photo. I also chose to not cut away the rest of the sole. All floors were replaced and glassed in as well as a couple coats of epoxy. A hint I found was to create the floors out of foam but I might now consoler diving cell and fiberglass if you have enough information to complete the repair properly. The insert is 1/2 inch Okume, and 1/4 inch teak and Holly was fitted, then glued onto the bilge covers first and removed and cut the bilge covers to make sure all stripes matched.
Contact me if I can be of assistance.
Photos from Ariel.
Stephanie
Arista, S36 #67, Lake Ontario
Shburgess1207@...
--
Stephanie
Moderator
Sabre 36, #67
Formerly Sabre 28-2, #289
Wilson Harbor, NY Lake Ontario
|
There is an under layer under the center section of the sole that is flat. Then foam, then the 1/4" "sole" you walk on. This is also a good opportunity to replace your floors and the support under the compression post. In order ascending you'll have: Floors -> Sub-sole (the tabs for your bilge access panels get glued and bolted to this) -> Foam -> Sole. Looking at the pictures you put up, I would say your floors need to be replaced as well, "floor" in this case being the vertical supports in the keel pocket that support the sole and provide extra rigidity to the keel structure, while "sole" is the part you walk on.?
The sole will come out with a hammer, various chisels, pry-bars, grinders, and liberal use of the f-word. It's glued directly to your hull.?
If the bulkhead is rotten at the bottom, it is likely rotten up the tabbing to the top of the hull and the whole bulkhead should be replaced. Water gets in there from the chainplate or hull/deck joint, or runs down the headliner and gets into the void between the plywood/hull/tabbing joint where Sabre didn't use any fillets and left a void between the bulkhead and the hull. The bulkhead will need to come into and out of the boat in two pieces and get glued up in place.?
Not an undoable amount of work, several members of this group have done this project on an S28.?
Some pictures are attached of how Light was constructed, there's also a great photo album out there somewhere that has Fiddler's Green's?rebuild.?
Thanks, Corey Light S28-1 Essex, CT
Sole was rotting out…
?
So I started cutting out the rotted parts of the sole.? Not sure where to go from here, doesn’t seem to be anywhere to attach the new wood too.
?
Old wood laminate won’t come off.
?
Maybe but off more than I can chew here.? I’m also concerned with the section of missing bulkhead.
?
How do I account for the bilge access? ?
Can I get some guidance for next steps?
?
?
--
Aaron R
Sabre 28-28 Hull 308
|
Sole was rotting out…
?
So I started cutting out the rotted parts of the sole. ?Not sure where to go from here, doesn’t seem to be anywhere to attach the new wood too.
?
Old wood laminate won’t come off.
?
Maybe but off more than I can chew here. ?I’m also concerned with the section of missing bulkhead.
?
How do I account for the bilge access? ?
Can I get some guidance for next steps?
?
?
--
Aaron R
Sabre 28-28 Hull 308
|
Re: 362 Rudder Bearing Replacement
Attached 1. Sabre steering system drawing. 2. some photos of
completed replacement.? Yard did the work, not me.
Perhaps these will help a bit
On 4/5/2025 1:04 PM, B Lamb via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello,
?
My name is Barry and I am the new owner of a ‘97 362 (hull
#181) and I was hoping I could get some help and advice. ?I have
spent the winter going through the boat system by system and
fixing whatever deficiencies I have found (quite a few) as well
as flagged items from the survey.
?
One of the things that came up on the survey was that the
rudder is “floating” up and rubbing against the hull causing it
to wear through the bottom paint and into the gel coat. ?The
lateral movement in the lower bearing was fairly minor.
?Yesterday I took apart the steering and lowered the rudder the
few inches that I could with the boat on jacks. ?The lower
bearing is recessed in the hull by approximately a half inch (I
did not measure it) and I am thinking that this may be the
problem. ?I see absolutely nothing wrong with the upper - zero
play.
?
I have been lurking on this site for a few months and have
read some of the earlier posts about rudders but my problem
seems to be a little different.
?
My questions are:
?
Is the bottom edge of the lower bearing what limits the
rudder from “floating” up? ?I see nothing at the top of the
rudder stock the would do it.
?
if so, is there an objective measurement that tells me where
to position the new bearing or is it something that I need to
figure out during installation?
?
I am assuming that my lower has broken free from the tube and
will come out fairly easily but, if not, what is the best way to
pull it? ?Are there set screws in the 362?
Roger, can you post, send me, or point me to the specs for the
bearings and the photos that you referred to.
?
Thanks in advance. ?This site is a great resource -
especially for us novices.
?
B
?
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
|
Re: 362 Rudder Bearing Replacement
Hello,
?
My name is Barry and I am the new owner of a ‘97 362 (hull #181) and I was hoping I could get some help and advice. ?I have spent the winter going through the boat system by system and fixing whatever deficiencies I have found (quite a few) as well as flagged items from the survey.
?
One of the things that came up on the survey was that the rudder is “floating” up and rubbing against the hull causing it to wear through the bottom paint and into the gel coat. ?The lateral movement in the lower bearing was fairly minor. ?Yesterday I took apart the steering and lowered the rudder the few inches that I could with the boat on jacks. ?The lower bearing is recessed in the hull by approximately a half inch (I did not measure it) and I am thinking that this may be the problem. ?I see absolutely nothing wrong with the upper - zero play.
?
I have been lurking on this site for a few months and have read some of the earlier posts about rudders but my problem seems to be a little different.
?
My questions are:
?
Is the bottom edge of the lower bearing what limits the rudder from “floating” up? ?I see nothing at the top of the rudder stock the would do it.
?
if so, is there an objective measurement that tells me where to position the new bearing or is it something that I need to figure out during installation?
?
I am assuming that my lower has broken free from the tube and will come out fairly easily but, if not, what is the best way to pull it? ?Are there set screws in the 362?
Roger, can you post, send me, or point me to the specs for the bearings and the photos that you referred to.
?
Thanks in advance. ?This site is a great resource - especially for us novices.
?
B
?
|
Re: Rear Chainplate Pitted 362
That's a no brainer.
?
I would replace in that condition.
?
Any stainless shop can make these - use 316L stainless.
?
Garhauer is also a good option as stated above.? I have had them make me mast plates and have purchased covered turnbuckles from them in the past.
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Tim R
38MKII in refit
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Your boat looks fabulous, I'm jealous.
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Phil Horn
S34 #67
Huntington, LI, NY
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Please keep us posted on how this paint performs.? Thank you, Jay
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On Apr 4, 2025, at 5:33?PM, Jerry Brecher via groups.io <jerrybrecher@...> wrote:
? Further to a previous thread, here is a photo of the Hempel bottom paint recently applied to the bottom of my boat by the Marina Coruna, in Spain, along with a photo of the finished result.
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Jerry Brecher
SIRACH 1982 Sabre 38 Mk I
Sailing home from Spain this summer to home port of Gloucester, Massachusetts
<04-04-2025 bottom paint1.jpg> <04-04-2025 ANTIFOULING FINISHED.jpeg>
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Jay Flynn
“Elizabeth Belle”
Sabre 362
1999 #212
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Wow I wish our yards looked that clean inside ! ?Nice bottom job. ? Allison Lehman Swiftsure Yachts 510 912-5800 cell 510 860-4640 fax allisonleh@... ? ? ??
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 4, 2025, at 2:33?PM, Jerry Brecher via groups.io <jerrybrecher@...> wrote:
? Further to a previous thread, here is a photo of the Hempel bottom paint recently applied to the bottom of my boat by the Marina Coruna, in Spain, along with a photo of the finished result.
?
Jerry Brecher
SIRACH 1982 Sabre 38 Mk I
Sailing home from Spain this summer to home port of Gloucester, Massachusetts
<04-04-2025 bottom paint1.jpg> <04-04-2025 ANTIFOULING FINISHED.jpeg>
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Allison
S426 Kingfisher
SF Bay/Pacifc Northwest
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Further to a previous thread, here is a photo of the Hempel bottom paint recently applied to the bottom of my boat by the Marina Coruna, in Spain, along with a photo of the finished result.
?
Jerry Brecher
SIRACH 1982 Sabre 38 Mk I
Sailing home from Spain this summer to home port of Gloucester, Massachusetts
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Re: Stewart Warner mechanical tachometer
While I'm generally a fan of older tech like this there is a more modern, and safer way to check rpm
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Sabre 38-2 #164
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David Short, SV One Timer, 1997 362, Mt Desert, ME
Pete Waterson
Jerry Brecher
Stephanie
Aaron R
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Tim Rivard
Philip Horn
Jay Flynn
LRG