So, Finally fund out what the cause of the hesitancy is! After checking the carb float chambers for contaminated petrol, checked the floats, cleaned the jets three times,? checked the distributor, electronic ignition, fuel pump, coil, changed the plugs, checked the leads? ------ and all was well! ----- I went into the garage on Friday and noticed the nearside rear wheel looked slightly on an angle. Jacked the rear end up and found the UJ's were knackered!!

In 30+ years of Eclat ownership, using the car as my everyday runner, (I only had the Eclat), I can always tell when the UJ's are on their way out because you can hear a rumbling sound.

On the Esprit - not a whisper. Because the UJ's (on the Eclat) go down on a regular basis, I always keep a supply in. Ive now changed both UJ's on the nearside and voila-? no hesitancy. Happy day. Ive checked the offside and although not as bad, Im going to change them as well.? Thanks to everyone who came up with suggestions. They were all appreciated.

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Search The Lotus Forum website, this process has been well detailed in pictures and instruction by several of the community there.

Cheers

At the Vancouver BC ABFM a couple of weeks ago, I spoke to a fellow who had recently completed an S2 restoration. His car won its class, which was recent restorations costing in excess of $100K. He described the process of attaching the plastic trim as somewhat technical and needing two people. I have his contact info. Let me know if you would like it.
Jeff

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Hi Gordon,
Wouldn't think it necessary to mask the body joint ridge, never read or heard of anyone doing so. The trim is flexible and the buildup of paint will not be unduly thick.?

I had mine recently painted, I believe they did paint the whole car and then used a heat gun to install the trim. Still looks good after 20 months.

Murray Graham
416-799-4219

Has anyone painted or had their Esprit S2 painted and know whether it’s prudent to mask the waist band support pieces. It seems like using several coats of primer and then several coats of paint could build up on those pieces to the point it might be too wide from the coats of paint to accept the plastic trim piece that splays over it and goes all around the car. Thanks, Gordon

Rich,

How much difficulty in dropping oil pan while engine in car?

There's room for the sump to come out. The difficulty is human access and having enough wrists and elbows to reach everything. I did it when I was younger. Take a look and decide for yourself.

Is it worth welding a bung to pan or just replace drain plug with AN10 fitting?

Personally, I'd probably save welding as the last option. The early, Jensen-Healey 907 Mk-1 (the one with the rear main 'rope' seal) had an oil separator cannister mounted on the firewall. The crankcase vent tube went to the separator first. From there...

* 'clean' fumes vented to the air filter box...

* 'oil' drained back down to the sump via a custom sorta "banjo bolt" replacement for the more typical 'drain plug' bolt (see attached jpg). A standard banjo bolt with fiber sealing washers on both sides 'might' work for sucking oil out. The drain plug is low enough to drain out all the oil, so I presume the location would also be low enough to be a good 'pick-up' when the engine isn't running. It's also 'reversible' without any scars if you elect to back out of it.

Later,
Tim


05/19/2023 9:14 PM CDT Rich Flowers <richnpeg@...> wrote:

Car sits without use and I feel oil is draining from lubrication points. Will use electric pump and one way valve plus just an SPST momentary switch.

I am in middle of the same thing on my S4s but with a more complete circuit.

How much difficulty in dropping oil pan while engine in car?

Is it worth welding a bung to pan or just replace drain plug with AN10 fitting?

--
Rich F
'79 JPS #040
'95 S4s ...SHF63000

Rich,
The oil pick-up tube rises through the sump to the point under that brass 'plug'. There, it's fitted with a plastic double-taper ring and compression fitting. The brass 'plug' is a part of that important assembly, and I wouldn't mess with it.

Later,
Tim



05/19/2023 9:35 PM CDT Rich Flowers <richnpeg@...> wrote:

Tim,

Is that large brass allen wrench driven plug viable or is it just a casting plug?
--
Rich F
'79 JPS #040
'95 S4s ...SHF63000

Car sits without use and I feel oil is draining from lubrication points.? Will use electric pump and one way valve plus just an SPST momentary switch.??

I am in middle of the same thing on my S4s but with a more complete circuit.

How much difficulty in dropping oil pan while engine in car?? ?

Is it worth welding a bung to pan or just replace drain plug with AN10 fitting?

--
Rich F
'79 JPS #040
'95 S4s ...SHF63000

Currently doing this on my S4s.
--
Rich F
'79 JPS #040
'95 S4s ...SHF63000

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No different than pluming into a separate filter adapter plate. I don't recall which is the in and which is the out hose though without looking. The sandwich plate diverts oil going into the filter (oil flows into the filter on the outside and filtered oil out through the middle) so with the filter off you should be able to see pretty easily which fitting is ported to the filter side. ?

You can always re-orient filter and save yourself from dumping oil every time you change...
I also added thermostat sandwich to keep the oil at proper temperature.

Couple pictures of my conversion.


Zig

Rich,
What are you planning to use as a pressure source... AccuSump?... electric oil pump?

For the purpose of pre-lubing the engine with the engine off... it won't make a significant difference which of the oil cooler hoses (out, or return) you put a T-fitting into. With the engine off, you're just pressurizing a static volume... flow direction isn't much of an issue. Of course, oil pressure will bleed down as oil leaks out through all the plain bearings' clearance fits (crank & cams) and bits, but that's just a matter of providing an adequate pre-oiler flow rate.

Look at the right side of the block, and you'll see what looks like a 'mole tunnel' running lengthwise. It's on the plane of... and runs thru the base of the auxiliary housing. In the middle, there's a large, brass, Allen drive plug. Further back, there's a trapezoidal shaped cover that bolts-on/ straddles it, and mounts the fuel pressure gauge sender (electric sender on an S1, oil hose on an S2).

On the 910 Turbo engine, that trapezoidal cover includes a threaded port & fitting for an oil output hose to the turbocharger (main oil feed to the turbo). That 910 cover would be a direct bolt-on fit on a 907, and provide a direct 'pre-oiler' feed into the main oil gallery (ie, that mole tunnel).

That mole tunnel is the engine's main oil gallery (redundant, I know), and the best, most direct route into the engine' active lubrication system. Whether you tap-in via the trapezoidal cover, a T-fitting in an oil cooler hose, or something more creative... directly pressurizing the main oil gallery is the best approach. IMHO.

A smaller inside diameter feed line approach (1/8" ID) would be to tap into the oil passages to the head & cam carriers. A smaller mole tunnel can be seen going up the right side of the block, from the Aux Housing/ mole tunnel to the joint between the block & head. In the head, an oil passage is drilled from the front, back until it intersects the vertical oil passage from the block. The front end of that drilled passage is plugged with a 1/8" BSP grub screw (Allen drive plug). That plug could be replaced by a 1/8" hose fitting & hose to the pre-oiler.

Compared to the size of the turbo oiler hose, the 1/8" ID fitting at the front of the head would be pretty small. But a pre-oiler doesn't have to keep up with the engine's operating needs. It just needs to pressurize a static, not-running engine before you start it.

Install a one-way valve in the pre-oiler feed line. Pre-oiler flow can go into the engine, but oil pressurized by the engine's oil pump can't come back out. !!

Having said all of that, what problem are you trying to solve that justifies all the effort? Slow oil pressure build-up after cold-start? They all do that. It would be best to first make certain the oil pump, oil pick-up screen, and the compression ('olive') are all up to snuff.

Then remove the oil pump from the auxiliary housing, and inspect the small air bleed vent (see attached PDF). It's a small (1.4mm ID) drilled hole that is easily plugged by sludge. Oil pressure build-up happens faster with a clean vent, slower with a plugged vent.

Regards,
Tim Engel


05/19/2023 1:08 PM CDT Rich Flowers <richnpeg@...> wrote:

That is a valid point.? Which line is input?

I am just concerned if the oil cooler adapter is the best place to create enough oil pressure in--say a minute to flow to all the points higher in the engine.

Or, is there a better place?


Rich F
'79 JPS #040
'95 S4s ...SHF63000

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The sand witch plate that is on there now will direct all of the oil flow out one port and take it all back on the other. ?It’s just a hose fitting with ends to attach to the oil filter and block. From an oil flow standpoint, ?Adding a fitting into that hose somewhere would be the same as adding on another sandwitch plate. If you want to have flow through something like a filter or cooler, then you would add it in series. You can put in a remote filter block, you can add another oil cooler, whatever you want its in the oil flow path. ?If you’re just trying to plumb in an oil inlet from the pre luber then making a custom oil cooler hose with a T inlet would be the same thing as adding an additional sandwitch plate with a takeoff port. You may also be able to just remove the inlet hose from the sandwitch or the cooler and add a fitting with a T between the plate and the hose. That of course all depends on your ability to unscrew the hose fitting which is often not easy after 40 years.?

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I would like to add a simple pre-oiler setup, nothing fancy.?

My experience with my S4s taught me the difficulty of removing the factory sandwich plate.?

If I can find another place to feed oil to the oil circuit I would consider it.?

The picture from Murray is pretty good and gives me an idea of how tight things are.??
?

--
Rich F
'79 JPS #040
'95 S4s ...SHF63000