Ian,

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I used Spal fans when I rebuild my cooling system. It requires more power, so I ran a 10 ga. wire to the front for the fans, as they pull many amps. I could look up the specs for the fans that I used, and pictures of how I mounted them if desired.

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At the same time, I ran another 10 ga. wire and rewired the headlights. Headlights don’t perform well when voltage drops below the design voltage, but the fans are quite capable of performing. I replaced all of the relays and placed fuses and relays inside 2 boxes. Factory stock? Nope. Much better than factory? Yep.

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Another thing that you might consider is the hot climate modifications, which include the temperature switch and thermostat. The operate at lower temperatures to get working before the coolant heats up too much, in an attempt to prevent it getting out of hand.

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Finally, you might consider using Evans Waterless Coolant. I use that in several cars, and have had no problems. I like that it doesn’t require periodic replacement, and has excellent thermodynamic properties.

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Bill

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Yeah, the nightmares are coming back to me.

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One of the big problems sometimes is getting that U-joint off, so soak it in penetrating fluid a couple days before you start if you can. The best penetrating fluid is a 50:50 mix of acetone and ATF.

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I think I had to do the same thing with studs instead of bolts, at least a stud for the bottom nut, in order to get the nut plate in place to be able to get the top bolt in.

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A long time ago, some one pointed out that you want to adjust the rack to have the tie rods level if possible when the car is sitting on the ground with a driver and passenger if that is normal for you. It prevents that steering wheel shake at 50-60 mph.

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You can get the offside bush from the usually places, but to install it, you have to disassemble the rack. I think I tried slicing one in half so that it would go over the rack with it in place. It is held together by the tube. Don’t remember if that worked or not though, so use at your own risk. Arrange that the rack is sitting on the lower half, and the split is horizontal.

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Good luck,

Bill

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Yeah, it’s a real fun job to get that rack out, and back in… NOT.?

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I’ve attached several pictures that I have, but did not generate. I probably got them out of the Files section, and my first guess would be that Tim generated them. I have this document that shows the rack. I’m not sure if our rack is from a 73 Plymouth Cricket, but if it was, good luck finding THAT. Still, it gives you an idea of the basic layout.

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SJ has a LHD rack (NEW) for $400 plus postage, if that is more attractive to you.

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You might consider ordering some other parts at the same time, such as the outer tie rods, boots, etc. I think there is a substitute boot available, but I don’t seem to have a quick reference on those. You might check the email archives. Please report back if you find it.

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I had issues with the nut plate holding the rack in place. Mine were pretty rusty, and one nut was striped. Also, getting the bolts to catch the nuts was pretty tricky, as the bolts weren’t real long, and you are trying to hold the rack in place. I think I ended up with some rubber hose behind the nut plate to force it to the front of that box that they are in. You’ll understand it more when you release the 4 bolts holding the rack in place. I think you also have to bent the nut plates to get them in and out. Of course, if yours are in good condition, not required.

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Bill

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