Re: Replacing handbrake mounting plate
I'm going to start with the lever, and if that checks out move on to the cable.? If all that is good and I still don't have an e-brake then I'll follow the procedure you specify.? Starting next Spring of course when the temperatures are above freezing and the salt has washed off the road...
-- Toaph
On Friday, January 3, 2025 at 03:31:23 PM EST, Bill Galbraith <lotus@...> wrote:
While we are on the topic of emergency (hand) brakes, I thought I¡¯d share a little tip. Often, the e-brake mechanism on the caliper is frozen. I¡¯ve had 100% success freeing those up (I think I¡¯ve done 6 of them, or more). Soak the caliper in a 1:1 mixture of acetone and ATF, in a sealed container or Ziplock bag. Take it out once or twice a day, clamp it in a vise and use some big-honking pliers to try to exercise it. Repeat this for several days, and for a couple days after it loosens up. ? I saw an article on that acetone/ATF mixture. It was the best penetrating fluid ever, far exceeding anything in an aerosol can. ? Good luck, Bill ?
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Toaph via groups.io Sent: Friday, January 3, 2025 2:52 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] Replacing handbrake mounting plate ? Ouch!? I won't be removing the outer sill on my S1 any time soon!!!? Actually the only part of the video I was really interested in was the half-second clip where they take out the inner sill.? I'm guessing that the amount of effort required is commensurate with the amount of screen time it got.? My first priority is to check that the cable is properly attached, but if I find that the lever has "gone all floppy" then I'll probably bag it and pretend the handbrake doesn't exist just like I've done for the 11 years I've owned the car. On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 01:04:10 PM EST, Shane Chalke <shane@...> wrote:
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Re: Replacing handbrake mounting plate
I agree 100% with the acetone and ATF, the best ever.
?
Gene
In a message dated 1/3/2025 3:31:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, Lotus@... writes:
?
While we are on the topic of emergency (hand) brakes, I thought I¡¯d share a little tip. Often, the e-brake mechanism on the caliper is frozen. I¡¯ve had 100% success freeing those up (I think I¡¯ve done 6 of them, or more). Soak the caliper in a 1:1 mixture of acetone and ATF, in a sealed container or Ziplock bag. Take it out once or twice a day, clamp it in a vise and use some big-honking pliers to try to exercise it. Repeat this for several days, and for a couple days after it loosens up.
?
I saw an article on that acetone/ATF mixture. It was the best penetrating fluid ever, far exceeding anything in an aerosol can.
?
Good luck,
Bill
?
?
Ouch!? I won't be removing the outer sill on my S1 any time soon!!!? Actually the only part of the video I was really interested in was the half-second clip where they take out the inner sill.? I'm guessing that the amount of effort required is commensurate with the amount of screen time it got.? My first priority is to check that the cable is properly attached, but if I find that the lever has "gone all floppy" then I'll probably bag it and pretend the handbrake doesn't exist just like I've done for the 11 years I've owned the car.
On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 01:04:10 PM EST, Shane Chalke <shane@...> wrote:
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Re: Replacing handbrake mounting plate
While we are on the topic of emergency (hand) brakes, I thought I¡¯d share a little tip. Often, the e-brake mechanism on the caliper is frozen. I¡¯ve had 100% success freeing those up (I think I¡¯ve done 6 of them, or more). Soak the caliper in a 1:1 mixture of acetone and ATF, in a sealed container or Ziplock bag. Take it out once or twice a day, clamp it in a vise and use some big-honking pliers to try to exercise it. Repeat this for several days, and for a couple days after it loosens up. ? I saw an article on that acetone/ATF mixture. It was the best penetrating fluid ever, far exceeding anything in an aerosol can. ? Good luck, Bill ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Toaph via groups.io Sent: Friday, January 3, 2025 2:52 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] Replacing handbrake mounting plate ? Ouch!? I won't be removing the outer sill on my S1 any time soon!!!? Actually the only part of the video I was really interested in was the half-second clip where they take out the inner sill.? I'm guessing that the amount of effort required is commensurate with the amount of screen time it got.? My first priority is to check that the cable is properly attached, but if I find that the lever has "gone all floppy" then I'll probably bag it and pretend the handbrake doesn't exist just like I've done for the 11 years I've owned the car. On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 01:04:10 PM EST, Shane Chalke <shane@...> wrote:
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Re: Replacing handbrake mounting plate
Ouch!? I won't be removing the outer sill on my S1 any time soon!!!? Actually the only part of the video I was really interested in was the half-second clip where they take out the inner sill.? I'm guessing that the amount of effort required is commensurate with the amount of screen time it got.? My first priority is to check that the cable is properly attached, but if I find that the lever has "gone all floppy" then I'll probably bag it and pretend the handbrake doesn't exist just like I've done for the 11 years I've owned the car.
On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 01:04:10 PM EST, Shane Chalke <shane@...> wrote:
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
Thanks for all the generous feedback. I'm just doing what I enjoy doing... with friends. That's what has been so great & rewarding about the Lotu community.
Tim
01/02/2025, 2:56PM PST, Bill Galbraith <lotus@...> wrote:
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There is a TON of great Tim information in the archives, enough to write a book. The problem is that no one would buy it ;-}
Bill
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf OfJames coyne via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2025 4:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] What distributor are you running in your 907?
I also have been keeping a whole folder of nothing but Tim's answers and responses. Thank you Tim for sharing your knowledge with others. -Jim Coyne
------------------------------
From:[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of sevenman93 <tvacc@...> via groups.io <tvacc@...>
Sent:?Thursday, January 2, 2025 11:33 AM
To:[email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject:?Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] What distributor are you running in your 907?
Just a note. I have been reading Tim's posts for more years than I can count on 4 hands.
It got to the point where I valued his responses so highly that I have a whole folder of Tim's responses.
Another great one Tim.
Tony V
www.lotusowners.com ()
()
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
Very True. Tim knows Lotus.
?
Gene
In a message dated 1/2/2025 5:58:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, Lotus@... writes:
?
There is a TON of great Tim information in the archives, enough to write a book. The problem is that no one would buy it ;-}
?
Bill
?
?
I also have been keeping a whole folder of nothing but Tim's answers and responses. Thank you Tim for sharing your knowledge with others. -Jim Coyne
Just a note. I have been reading Tim's posts for more years than I can count on 4 hands.
It got to the point where I valued his responses so highly that I have a whole folder of Tim's responses.
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
There is a TON of great Tim information in the archives, enough to write a book. The problem is that no one would buy it ;-} ? Bill ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of James coyne via groups.io Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2025 4:20 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] What distributor are you running in your 907? ? I also have been keeping a whole folder of nothing but Tim's answers and responses. Thank you Tim for sharing your knowledge with others. -Jim Coyne
Just a note. I have been reading Tim's posts for more years than I can count on 4 hands. It got to the point where I valued his responses so highly that I have a whole folder of Tim's responses.
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
It's quite easy to use a GM HEI module (like the one inside the Lucas AB14 ignition amplifier) with points. On Thu, 2 Jan 2025 at 21:19, James coyne via groups.io <tecnosound@...> wrote:
I also have been keeping a whole folder of nothing but Tim's answers and responses. Thank you Tim for sharing your knowledge with others. -Jim Coyne
________________________________
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of sevenman93 <tvacc@...> via groups.io <tvacc@...>
Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2025 11:33 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] What distributor are you running in your 907?
Just a note. I have been reading Tim's posts for more years than I can count on 4 hands.
It got to the point where I valued his responses so highly that I have a whole folder of Tim's responses.
Another great one Tim.
Tony V
www.lotusowners.com
-- Paul Compton www.paulcompton.co.uk (YouTube channel)
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
I also have been keeping a whole folder of nothing but Tim's answers and responses. Thank you Tim for sharing your knowledge with others. -Jim Coyne
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Show quoted text
Just a note. I have been reading Tim's posts for more years than I can count on 4 hands.
It got to the point where I valued his responses so highly that I have a whole folder of Tim's responses.
Another great one Tim.
?
Tony V
www.lotusowners.com
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
Thank you Tim for the straightforward and emphatic direction.
?
Steve
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
Brain Fart Admission:
The difference I wrote about earlier is NOT between the Lucas 23 and 25 models... as I stated The Type 23 & Type 25 are BOTH "small bodied" distributors, and neither one can handle either the high current or the high arc-voltage associated with using a high performance/ low resistance ignition coil... like some of the "Flame-Thrower" models.
In the early 1970s, the Type 23 & 25 were replaced by the physically "Larger Head" Type 43 & 45 distributors. In both pairs, one was purely mechanical advance, and the other added an vacuum advance/retard capsule onto the outside of the distributor's head. If you have either a 23 or 25, then your distributor is built "TOO SMALL" to handle a hi-performance ignition coil! Period! And there are no Band-Aid fixes you can make to either a 23 or 25 that will make them compatible with a hi-performance ignition coil!
The Lucas Type 43 & 45 are very similar to their smaller 23 & 25 predecessors, just made with larger "heads. The shank part that slips into the engine is the same, so upgrading from a 23/25 to a 43/45 is plug-n-play. But the 43/45's larger "head" puts the spark plug wire terminals on a larger diameter centerline circle, and therefore, further apart. Further by enough that the high voltage arc can no longer jump between the plug wire terminals internal to the cap. When dealing with high performance ignition coils and their HIGH voltages, SIZE MATTERS, and you cannot make an older, SMALLEmall 23/25 distributor grow-up.
So, I got stuck in the wrong gear, and was comparing the Lucas Type 23 to the 25... wrong. I should have been comparing the early & smaller Lucas Type 23 & 25 to the later & LARGER Lucas Type 43 & 45. And it's the LARGER part that makes the 43/45 distributors compatible with the later high performance ignition coils. The earlier 23/25 distributors are simply too small to be compatible with the later "HOT" ignition coils. That is NOT a MARRIAGE!
Regards,
Tim Engel
01/01/2025, 5:58PM PST, Tim Engel, TSEngel@... wrote:
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The Lucas 23 distributor is the older model that preceded the type 25. The major difference is that the Type 23 has a smaller "head" that squeezes the plug wire terminals down into a smaller diameter circle. The net effect is that the plug wire terminals are closer together on the Type 23, and further apart on the Type 25.
The Type 23 can NOT handle high arc voltage. If you use a "hot", high performance ignition coil with a little Type 23 distributor, the spark will simply jump between the plug wire terminals "Inside" the distributor cap, and the arc will never make it to the spark plugs. And more voltage/ more spark will not help, it will only make matters worse!
The Type 23 distributor should be used with ignition coils that have about 3.6-3.7 ohms of internal resistance. To measure that, remove the small 12 volt wires from the coil's small spade terminals on either side of the main coil wire terminal. Then use an Ohmmeter/ multi-meter to measure the primary field coil resistance with the ignition switch "on". You want to see 3.5-3.7 ohms, and you might stretch that to 2.75-3.5 ohms. There are several coils in the "FlameThrower" product line, but you're probably going to see much lower primary resistances across the entire "FlameThrower" product line compared to the "normal", Period-correct coils... on the order of 1.5-2.75 ohms lower resistance (higher current). That's too much current for a Type 23 Lucas distributor, and there's nothing you can do to the Type 23 to change that. You've got what you've got!!
The higher current flows through the entire ignition system's wiring, and will put the entire ignition system at risk of overe-heating/ burning out!! Even if you're using a Pertronix amplifier. The early, original Pertronix "Ignitor" Was little more than a "Points Replacer", and was not rated for any more current. Push more current thru it with a modern high-performance coil, and you can (will) turn the original "Ignitor" into a lump of coal.
If you wish to run a high performance coil with your ignition system, then the ENTIRE system MUST be designed & built to handle the higher current draw that will be running through it. The Lucas Type 23 distributor is NOT DESIGNED TO RUN WITH / HANDLE HIGH CURRENT / HIGH PERFORMANCE COILS. Period!
The Type 23 & Type 25 distributors' bases are the same... the distributors are interchangeable into the engine's "distributor drive". You can simply plug in a replacement Type 25 Lucas distributor, or even a modern Thpe 123 distributor. But you cannot massage the Type 23 into something it's not.
I'm using Stock(ish) Type 25 distributors with different 'internals'... like aftermarket electronic ignition systems. I'm not a fan of Pertronix ignition systems, and I'm not using any of them. Having said that, a friend is running a Pertronix 123 and likes it. But, the Lucas 123 will not work in a Lucas Type "23", so it's also no help to you. Your Type 23 IS YOUR LIMITER. IF you want to go with a hotter ignition system, then your first step will be to upgrade from there... install a later, high-performance distribuor, along with an electronic ignition system that the distrubutor can handle, and that can handel the HOT coil of your choice. It's not a free ride... you have to make a "balanced" selection of components to build a "System" that will work togetheer. How much coil you can use will be a function of what you upgrade your distributor/ system to.
The O-ring and the internal lip-seal upgrade only keep the distributor from leaking oil and making a mess. Whether you use a mild manered Type 23, or a hot Type 25 or Type 123, the seals need to be there.
Which brings up another point. The modern Lucas 123 does not include the internal lip seal that is critical in order for the distributor to run leak-free in a horizontal position. The lip seal can be added with a minimum of machining, but that would be up to you or your retailer... the manufacturer of the Lucas 123 does not, AND WILL NOT include the internal lip seal. It's not an OEM option.
Regards,
Tim Engel
01/01/2025 3:24 PM PST ZenHorizon via groups.io <zenhorizon@...> wrote:
Tim, would this 43d do? My plan to see if its possible is to run this, order and instal sjs's o ring on the inside on the lipseal, and see if i can install the pertronix ignitor that I have in mine to the one in this one. Currently running a flame thrower coil on my 23d but i Have read not too but am not worried as I am not driving the car until I get this crazy distributor leak fixed. Hopefully a 43d dis and that o ring sjs has helps.
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
Just a note. I have been reading Tim's posts for more years than I can count on 4 hands.
It got to the point where I valued his responses so highly that I have a whole folder of Tim's responses.
Another great one Tim.
?
Tony V
www.lotusowners.com
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
wigl,
I'm not an automotive machinist. I'm an owner/ wrencher who likes to work on his own cars. But there are points at which I draw the line, and take the big work to a pro. Cylinder head repair and rebuilds are something I take to the pros. I live in a metro area, and I'm fortunate to have a number of very qualified automotive machine shops as options.
While I stay out of the way and let them do their thing, I do try to stay mentally involved... I want to know what's going on. One thing I do know for certain is that it is critically important to remove & install the valve guides and seats "correctly", which includes properly/technically heating the head in preparation for disassembly, and both properly heating and chilling parts in preparation for re-assembly. Just "What size punch and hammer do I use?" is NOT the correct mindset!!
The Lotus engine's cast aluminum parts are made of a British Industry Standard alloy called "LM25-TF"... The TF being my bad memory recall of the dash-suffix that indicates the post-cooling "Temper" (hardness) spec. For the LM25 used in the Lotus engines, the temper is the most thorough option available for LM25... I have a spec sheet I can dig out if/when you need it... but not now. Currently, I'm not home, and won't be for a while.
I have a 907 head at home that was annealed when the engine over-heated. The engine started after I filled the cooling system, but a short time later it started to rattle & clatter. A couple of valve seats (ie, the steel "ring" inserts) dropped out and were trapped between the combustion chamber and the valve head. They were getting hammered pretty badly.
I took the head to one of the pro-shops, and he installed new, over-sized OD seats and guides, and used all the proper pre-heating and chilling procedures during assembly. I installed the head, the engine started & ran, and I drove it for a couple of days... then the clatter started again... the valve seats had dropped out again!
The machine shop couldn't believe it, but he offered to re-do the rebuild for free. When I picked it up, he told me he had set the valve seats deeper than spec, and then peened-over and smooth-finished the surrounding metal, capturing the seats. "Those valve seats will "NEVER" come out again!!" Two days down the road, the familiar clatter came back. It's been many years, but I still have that head as a reminder of how badly you can screw-up LM25 aluminum alloy BY NOT HEAT-TREATING AND TEMPERING IT CORRECTLY. Don't think for a moment that it's something you're going to accomplish on your first try in your kitchen oven or bar-b-que!!
If you have to ask for advice on how to do it properly, then you're not prepared, and I strongly recommend that you take it to a pro who has all the proper heat-treating, chilling, and assembly tools.
Regards,
Tim Engel
01/01/2025 10:43PM PST wigl via groups.io <wigl@...> wrote:
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Pardon this hijack but I'd greatly appreciate Tim's advice on my question for guides removal, adjacent thread.
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Re: Replacing handbrake mounting plate
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Re: Replacing handbrake mounting plate
Any tips on which video?? I looked at their video index from the past year and none looks like it has anything to do with handbrake repair...
On Tuesday, December 31, 2024 at 04:48:23 PM EST, Paul Compton via groups.io <paul.compton7@...> wrote:
Soup Classic Motoring showed this repair in one of his recent videos.
On Tue, 31 Dec 2024 at 21:44, CSM via groups.io
<csmarshall26@...> wrote:
>
> The handbrake pivot on my 1977 S1 is broken. To replace/repair it it looks like I need access to the inside of the sill. I could not find a previous discussion on the best way to do this, if that is indeed the correct way to replace the plate. What is the best way to approach this repair?
>
--
Paul Compton
www.paulcompton.co.uk (YouTube channel)
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Re: Upgraded front brakes from SJ Sportscars
Apply Brake Disc anti-squeal to the back of the pads.? Look up CRC? Disc Brake? Quiet
--
Atwell Haines
'88 Esprit Turbo
Succasunna, NJ USA
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Upgraded front brakes from SJ Sportscars
I'm just now installing the upgraded brake kit from AP Racing sold by SJS.? ?It turns out that the anti-rattle clips don't fit in this caliper, as it is specified for racing only.? ?I confirmed this directly with AP Racing.? ?So I'm installing the setup without the clips.? ?Just wondering if anyone else has used this kit, and if the pad noise without anti-rattle clips is annoying, or no big deal?
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
I built my own system on my 1977 Esprit S1. The left side of the engine cover has a 4 inch pipe on the side going to the back of the inside behind license plate . There there is a bilge fan and all the engine heat exhausts around the license plate.?
On Thu., Jan. 2, 2025, 7:23 a.m. Bill Galbraith via , <Lotus= [email protected]> wrote: No engine bay blower on the S1, only on the S2. For temperate climates, the right-side rear-quarter window ¡°ear¡± has trunking (#1 in parts manual diagram BEB). For high ambient temperature climates, there is a blower motor under the right-side rear-quarter window, where the battery is on the early S1 cars. There is a thermostat (#14) mounted on top of the air box that completes the circuit to ground to activate the fan motor. ? The parts manual doesn¡¯t break out Domestic, Federal, or ROW markets for temperate or high ambient temperature. I don¡¯t know if this was an option when the car was ordered, or if just some cars got it, some didn¡¯t. ? For the S1, I¡¯ve seen various methods to implement an engine bay blower, sometimes cutting into the engine cover. A cleaner method might just provide a blower, such as for an inboard engine boat, mounted below the engine bay flooring, just to move some air around. Heat rises, so anything to move some cooler air up under the engine cover would probably be beneficial. ? Just my $0.87 worth ($0.02 adjusted for inflation) Bill
? ? I have an engine bay blower in the engine bay behind the license plate .I exhaust through and around the license plate. ? is this blower stock or was it put there . If not please explain where exactly this Esprit S1 blower was installed originally thanks? ? On Wed., Jan. 1, 2025, 9:39 p.m. Bill Galbraith via , <Lotus=[email protected]> wrote: Hay, I just found out something. (I¡¯ve been a Lotus owner for 35 years). Not all cars have the engine bay blower, only the high ambient temperature climates. ? So, if you live in one of those areas and your car doesn¡¯t have the bay blower, you might consider it. ? Bill ? ? P. ? I did the calculations of the effects of running without the correct airbox, instead just using K&N filters or similar on the carbs, sucking in hot air from the engine bay. The results were pretty amazing. Lots of horsepower lost. You can find that paper on my web site:?? ? I can¡¯t measure the temperature under the engine cover of a standard car, as I¡¯ve done many things to my car to reduce the temperature. I¡¯ve had the header Jet-Hot (ceramic) coated and I wrapped the exhaust all the way to the muffler in header tape. That made a HUGE difference of the temperature near the left rear wheel well. I also have the proper engine bay blower, but an adjustable thermostat set really low (140 deg F I think). I¡¯ll try to measure it the next time I¡¯m out, although it¡¯s winter in Florida. It will only be 60 deg F on Saturday, instead of 95 deg in the summer. ? Bill ? ? The carbs were rebuilt by WEBER JETS in Vancouver Canada. EXPENSIVE. But the 2977 Esprit S1 runs like a ROLEX PRESIDENT. ? That Weber spec is interesting to say the least. The original Twincam at 1500cc and 95-100 HP was so equipped, wouldn't think that to be optimal for output on the 907 but it would run like a Swiss watch if the carbs are in good shape.
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
No engine bay blower on the S1, only on the S2. For temperate climates, the right-side rear-quarter window ¡°ear¡± has trunking (#1 in parts manual diagram BEB). For high ambient temperature climates, there is a blower motor under the right-side rear-quarter window, where the battery is on the early S1 cars. There is a thermostat (#14) mounted on top of the air box that completes the circuit to ground to activate the fan motor. ? The parts manual doesn¡¯t break out Domestic, Federal, or ROW markets for temperate or high ambient temperature. I don¡¯t know if this was an option when the car was ordered, or if just some cars got it, some didn¡¯t. ? For the S1, I¡¯ve seen various methods to implement an engine bay blower, sometimes cutting into the engine cover. A cleaner method might just provide a blower, such as for an inboard engine boat, mounted below the engine bay flooring, just to move some air around. Heat rises, so anything to move some cooler air up under the engine cover would probably be beneficial. ? Just my $0.87 worth ($0.02 adjusted for inflation) Bill 
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of P. via groups.io Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2025 9:47 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] What distributor are you running in your 907? ? I have an engine bay blower in the engine bay behind the license plate .I exhaust through and around the license plate. ? is this blower stock or was it put there . If not please explain where exactly this Esprit S1 blower was installed originally thanks? ? On Wed., Jan. 1, 2025, 9:39 p.m. Bill Galbraith via , <Lotus=[email protected]> wrote: Hay, I just found out something. (I¡¯ve been a Lotus owner for 35 years). Not all cars have the engine bay blower, only the high ambient temperature climates. ? So, if you live in one of those areas and your car doesn¡¯t have the bay blower, you might consider it. ? Bill ? ? P. ? I did the calculations of the effects of running without the correct airbox, instead just using K&N filters or similar on the carbs, sucking in hot air from the engine bay. The results were pretty amazing. Lots of horsepower lost. You can find that paper on my web site:?? ? I can¡¯t measure the temperature under the engine cover of a standard car, as I¡¯ve done many things to my car to reduce the temperature. I¡¯ve had the header Jet-Hot (ceramic) coated and I wrapped the exhaust all the way to the muffler in header tape. That made a HUGE difference of the temperature near the left rear wheel well. I also have the proper engine bay blower, but an adjustable thermostat set really low (140 deg F I think). I¡¯ll try to measure it the next time I¡¯m out, although it¡¯s winter in Florida. It will only be 60 deg F on Saturday, instead of 95 deg in the summer. ? Bill ? ? The carbs were rebuilt by WEBER JETS in Vancouver Canada. EXPENSIVE. But the 2977 Esprit S1 runs like a ROLEX PRESIDENT. ? That Weber spec is interesting to say the least. The original Twincam at 1500cc and 95-100 HP was so equipped, wouldn't think that to be optimal for output on the 907 but it would run like a Swiss watch if the carbs are in good shape.
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Re: What distributor are you running in your 907?
Pardon this hijack but I'd greatly appreciate Tim's advice on my question for guides removal, adjacent thread.
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Gene
Bill Galbraith
Paul Compton
Atwell
P.
