Ok here are some photos. Anyone see anything wrong? If you see the first photo, the fork was stuck all the way forward and would give me no movement. Now I can see possibly it appears that either the flywheel or clutch aren't lined up. Also I have the upgraded jae input shaft. I need to ask if that shaft requires the plastic bushing on the end
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------- Original Message ------- On Sunday, May 29th, 2022 at 1:18 PM, ZenHorizon via groups.io <zenhorizon@...> wrote: Ok so I may need to pull my trans again. I had jae's input shaft installed. But when the trans is in the car, the clutch fork sits so far forward. I can't remember but this looks wrong. Am I correct?
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------- Original Message -------
On Monday, May 23rd, 2022 at 2:14 PM, ZenHorizon via groups.io zenhorizon@... wrote:
I appreciate your input and everyone elses. It looks like i have alot of reading to do and I will reach out to Steve as i actually have a order in im about to place. I will add an airbox and all the bits to it as well. Ill post some photos when im almost done with the car, thank you all as usual!
Sent with ProtonMail secure email.
------- Original Message -------
On Monday, May 23rd, 2022 at 1:47 PM, Tim Engel TSEngel@... wrote:
As Bill pointed out, using a stock-ish airbox is better than an open air filter like a K&N. K&N claims their fileters are freer flowing, so more air will get into the engine, and it will make more power. That would be true if all else were equal, but it's not. The airbox breathes cool, dense outside air, while the bare air filter breathes HOT, less dense engine bay air. The result is that less air on a 'mass' basis enters the engine via an open filter, so the engine makes less power.
There's an ideal trumpet length, depending upon your goal... longer for more low end torque, shorter for high rpm horsepower. On the stock 907 with Dellortos, Lotus used 45mm long trumpets in their airbox.
But in the real world, the trumpet length is limited by the air filter that is applied over it. Using K&N as an example again, their basic oval, open filter is available in different widths... narrow, medium, wide. Within the available filter space, the open end of the trumpet must not get too close to the filter's far wall, or airflow will be restricted/ pinched-off by a narrow gap between the trumpet and filter housing. Rule of Thumb: the gap between trumpet & housing should equal the Inside Diameter of the trumpet.
In early Weber DCOEs, the trumpet didn't just bolt to the carb's inlet flange. It also had a 'neck' that slipped into the carb's throat, and buttet up against the choke/ auxiliary venturi. When the trumpet's mounting bolts were tightened, it also pinched the choke/venturi tightly into place. Runing without the trumpets on those early carbs means the carb assembly is incomplete, and there is some elevated risk of fuel leaking out of the carb inlets.
Later, modern Weber DCOEs are more like Dellortos in that regard. They use a trumpet that just bolts on, without the neck that slides into the throat.
In either case, the real fuel leak risk will be a function of adjusting the fuel level too high, having an old leaky float that is taking on fuel and becoming too heavy, or an inlet valve that is not shutting off cleanly, and allowing excess fuel to enter the carb. "IF" the fuel level in the float bowl is correct, no fuel should spill over into the throats. Fuel leaks out of the carb inlets are not due to trumpet lengths... something else is at work. Trumpets are a secondary influence. Get the carbs 'right'.
~~*
The little hose spigot high-up on the filler neck is for collecting fuel vapors. A hose from each filler neck goes to a vapor cannistor first. There, any liquid fuel that gets into the vapor hoses is trapped, and remains until it evaporates. Only 'vapor' exits the cannister and continues to a charcoal cannister. All this is in response to government emissions mandates, and the need varied by market/ country.
If your car has none of that, then it shouldn't even have the hose spigots on the filler necks. The fact that the spigots are there indicates that the rest of the vapor control system should be there, but isn't.
Either way, if you're going to run without it, then use a length of fuel hose to connect the two small hose spigots. It won't 'collect' vapors any more, but it will equalize pressures within the two tanks. The original cross-over hose was routed above the window in the firewall. It was immediately above the window, under the edge of the carpet trim.
~~*
do they make a cover for the distributor... Lotus didn't, and I'm not aware of an aftermarket cover. As Bill mentioned, it would be possible to fabricate a cover by cutting-up a plastic bottle (HDPE or PP plastic, but not PET or PETG). But a shield that effectively hides the distributor from any fuel leaks will also keep you from reaching it. Even with a shield, any fuel leaks will still collect in the many pockets between ribs on the side of the block. And liquid fuel will evaporate, creating a flammble cloud around the distributor or starter. Sparks and a flammable vapor are still a problem, and the real solution is to prevent/ not tolerate leaks... not to make an umbrella for the 'inevitable' leaks. :-/
Steven DuChene is a Lotus/ Jensen-Healey owner how had put together a distributorless ignition system for the 907, based on Ford EDIS parts. He sells a few special parts (not a complete kit) plus a set of instructions on how to make your own. But it's not a plug-n-play kit, you have to be the crafty type who can make and assemble the rest per instructions.
~~*
I'm firmly of the opinion that in all the photos you see of Esprits and other 9XX powered cars burning to the ground, it's the negligent owner's poor maintenance that is to blame. Not the crappy Lotus design, or the dangerous carbs as the storyline accompanying the flaming picture usually states.
Rubber gets old... that's a known fact. Whether it's hoses, or internal O-rings and diaphragms. It gets old, dries out, cracks and leaks. NORMAL maintenance is to regularly replace all of those on a TIME schedule BEFORE they get that old.
Similarly, carburettors are supposed to be pro-actively rebuilt on a TIME schedule. No, you do not way until you see/ feel tangible evidence that fuel is leaking from somewhere. A responsible owner doesn't wait for evidence of a leak. A responsible owner stays ahead of the maintenance schedule, and rebuilds the fuel system & carbs BEFORE anything goes wrong.
In those pictures of flaming cars, it's the cars that are victims of their irresponsible owners, not the owners that are victims of those crappy, dangerous cars. Unfortunately, in this modern phone app culture, far too many owners think washing & waxing the car, and filling the tank is maintenance... it's not.
Build your Weber DCOEs and supporting fuel system correctly, then maintain it on or ahead of schedule. Focusing on building a shield/ umbrella for the distributor (how about the starter?) is planning for the leak you feel is inevitable. The better solution is to build and maintain the system such that it doesn't leak in the first place (it does not leak by design), then commit to maintaining it properly over time.
Regards,
Tim Engel
05/22/2022 9:08PM ZenHorizon zenhorizon@... wrote:
I have a 79 series 2 esprit. I am close to done with the car, but have 2 bigh items coming up. I have weber 45 dcoe's that the previous owner installed years ago. I rebuilt them with a kit, but there are no velocity stacks. I know the engine was known as the torque less wonder, But i dont know what Stacks i Shoudl run. My car has no airbox, and i have a dreaded fear of the car catching fire due to leaky carbs. So my question is what stacks should I run for the best sound and least chance of leaks, or what air filters on the carbs for the 907.
My 2nd question is I just installed 2 new fuel tanks for sps sportscars. I have run the main line from both tanks from the fill port to the tank and the bigger vent to the tanks as well as a new style cross over pipe. I noticed on the drawings and on the filler neck there is a very small port and it shows a hose going to an evap tank. My car doesnt have this and I cannot find one on any vendor. DO I need this or is there any other way to set something up with those holes. As it is I am afraid gas will pour out that little port when I do fill ups or put fumes into the engine bay.
My 3rd question is do they make a cover for the distributor so if gas does leak it doesn't start a fire? I have seen rubber distributor covers on other cars but cant find an option for our model of distributor. If i went electronic distributor would it eliminate this threat? I researched distributorless ignition and lotus pbc sells a kit but its rather pricey but looks nice.
Regards, Blake in norfolk, VA
|
Ok so I may need to pull my trans again. I had jae's input shaft installed. But when the trans is in the car, the clutch fork sits so far forward. I can't remember but this looks wrong. Am I correct?
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------- Original Message ------- On Monday, May 23rd, 2022 at 2:14 PM, ZenHorizon via groups.io <zenhorizon@...> wrote: I appreciate your input and everyone elses. It looks like i have alot of reading to do and I will reach out to Steve as i actually have a order in im about to place. I will add an airbox and all the bits to it as well. Ill post some photos when im almost done with the car, thank you all as usual!
Sent with ProtonMail secure email.
------- Original Message -------
On Monday, May 23rd, 2022 at 1:47 PM, Tim Engel TSEngel@... wrote:
As Bill pointed out, using a stock-ish airbox is better than an open air filter like a K&N. K&N claims their fileters are freer flowing, so more air will get into the engine, and it will make more power. That would be true if all else were equal, but it's not. The airbox breathes cool, dense outside air, while the bare air filter breathes HOT, less dense engine bay air. The result is that less air on a 'mass' basis enters the engine via an open filter, so the engine makes less power.
There's an ideal trumpet length, depending upon your goal... longer for more low end torque, shorter for high rpm horsepower. On the stock 907 with Dellortos, Lotus used 45mm long trumpets in their airbox.
But in the real world, the trumpet length is limited by the air filter that is applied over it. Using K&N as an example again, their basic oval, open filter is available in different widths... narrow, medium, wide. Within the available filter space, the open end of the trumpet must not get too close to the filter's far wall, or airflow will be restricted/ pinched-off by a narrow gap between the trumpet and filter housing. Rule of Thumb: the gap between trumpet & housing should equal the Inside Diameter of the trumpet.
In early Weber DCOEs, the trumpet didn't just bolt to the carb's inlet flange. It also had a 'neck' that slipped into the carb's throat, and buttet up against the choke/ auxiliary venturi. When the trumpet's mounting bolts were tightened, it also pinched the choke/venturi tightly into place. Runing without the trumpets on those early carbs means the carb assembly is incomplete, and there is some elevated risk of fuel leaking out of the carb inlets.
Later, modern Weber DCOEs are more like Dellortos in that regard. They use a trumpet that just bolts on, without the neck that slides into the throat.
In either case, the real fuel leak risk will be a function of adjusting the fuel level too high, having an old leaky float that is taking on fuel and becoming too heavy, or an inlet valve that is not shutting off cleanly, and allowing excess fuel to enter the carb. "IF" the fuel level in the float bowl is correct, no fuel should spill over into the throats. Fuel leaks out of the carb inlets are not due to trumpet lengths... something else is at work. Trumpets are a secondary influence. Get the carbs 'right'.
~~*
The little hose spigot high-up on the filler neck is for collecting fuel vapors. A hose from each filler neck goes to a vapor cannistor first. There, any liquid fuel that gets into the vapor hoses is trapped, and remains until it evaporates. Only 'vapor' exits the cannister and continues to a charcoal cannister. All this is in response to government emissions mandates, and the need varied by market/ country.
If your car has none of that, then it shouldn't even have the hose spigots on the filler necks. The fact that the spigots are there indicates that the rest of the vapor control system should be there, but isn't.
Either way, if you're going to run without it, then use a length of fuel hose to connect the two small hose spigots. It won't 'collect' vapors any more, but it will equalize pressures within the two tanks. The original cross-over hose was routed above the window in the firewall. It was immediately above the window, under the edge of the carpet trim.
~~*
do they make a cover for the distributor... Lotus didn't, and I'm not aware of an aftermarket cover. As Bill mentioned, it would be possible to fabricate a cover by cutting-up a plastic bottle (HDPE or PP plastic, but not PET or PETG). But a shield that effectively hides the distributor from any fuel leaks will also keep you from reaching it. Even with a shield, any fuel leaks will still collect in the many pockets between ribs on the side of the block. And liquid fuel will evaporate, creating a flammble cloud around the distributor or starter. Sparks and a flammable vapor are still a problem, and the real solution is to prevent/ not tolerate leaks... not to make an umbrella for the 'inevitable' leaks. :-/
Steven DuChene is a Lotus/ Jensen-Healey owner how had put together a distributorless ignition system for the 907, based on Ford EDIS parts. He sells a few special parts (not a complete kit) plus a set of instructions on how to make your own. But it's not a plug-n-play kit, you have to be the crafty type who can make and assemble the rest per instructions.
~~*
I'm firmly of the opinion that in all the photos you see of Esprits and other 9XX powered cars burning to the ground, it's the negligent owner's poor maintenance that is to blame. Not the crappy Lotus design, or the dangerous carbs as the storyline accompanying the flaming picture usually states.
Rubber gets old... that's a known fact. Whether it's hoses, or internal O-rings and diaphragms. It gets old, dries out, cracks and leaks. NORMAL maintenance is to regularly replace all of those on a TIME schedule BEFORE they get that old.
Similarly, carburettors are supposed to be pro-actively rebuilt on a TIME schedule. No, you do not way until you see/ feel tangible evidence that fuel is leaking from somewhere. A responsible owner doesn't wait for evidence of a leak. A responsible owner stays ahead of the maintenance schedule, and rebuilds the fuel system & carbs BEFORE anything goes wrong.
In those pictures of flaming cars, it's the cars that are victims of their irresponsible owners, not the owners that are victims of those crappy, dangerous cars. Unfortunately, in this modern phone app culture, far too many owners think washing & waxing the car, and filling the tank is maintenance... it's not.
Build your Weber DCOEs and supporting fuel system correctly, then maintain it on or ahead of schedule. Focusing on building a shield/ umbrella for the distributor (how about the starter?) is planning for the leak you feel is inevitable. The better solution is to build and maintain the system such that it doesn't leak in the first place (it does not leak by design), then commit to maintaining it properly over time.
Regards,
Tim Engel
05/22/2022 9:08PM ZenHorizon zenhorizon@... wrote:
I have a 79 series 2 esprit. I am close to done with the car, but have 2 bigh items coming up. I have weber 45 dcoe's that the previous owner installed years ago. I rebuilt them with a kit, but there are no velocity stacks. I know the engine was known as the torque less wonder, But i dont know what Stacks i Shoudl run. My car has no airbox, and i have a dreaded fear of the car catching fire due to leaky carbs. So my question is what stacks should I run for the best sound and least chance of leaks, or what air filters on the carbs for the 907.
My 2nd question is I just installed 2 new fuel tanks for sps sportscars. I have run the main line from both tanks from the fill port to the tank and the bigger vent to the tanks as well as a new style cross over pipe. I noticed on the drawings and on the filler neck there is a very small port and it shows a hose going to an evap tank. My car doesnt have this and I cannot find one on any vendor. DO I need this or is there any other way to set something up with those holes. As it is I am afraid gas will pour out that little port when I do fill ups or put fumes into the engine bay.
My 3rd question is do they make a cover for the distributor so if gas does leak it doesn't start a fire? I have seen rubber distributor covers on other cars but cant find an option for our model of distributor. If i went electronic distributor would it eliminate this threat? I researched distributorless ignition and lotus pbc sells a kit but its rather pricey but looks nice.
Regards, Blake in norfolk, VA
|
I can speak from experience as I corrected the alignment defects built in to a Spydersport chassis for Elan some years ago with rudimentary tools. As well described in Tim's posting last year one needs to have the rear wheels tracking true to spec in relation to the chassis proper, otherwise the car may dog track as did my Elan. Due to the elegant simplicity of the Esprit rear suspension, where the powertrain is on flexible mountings you're best advised to lay out a representative center line using the base chassis alone. Therefore I suggest running a string taped under the measured center at front of chassis ( the major box section which locates the wishbones ) back all the way to the crossbeam, checking that the string line measures dead center at the rearmost point where it can be checked against the backbone, then mark the crossbeam yourself. Bear in mind you want to be confident in the sound state of engine and transaxle mountings ahead of this, so that your datum is valid.
By the way, I later had the Elan checked professionally and my work on this, plus tweaking the front caster was found to be very accurate. What I employed as indicator for toe might be amusing - long fluorescent tubes found in the rented garage, offered up to the tire sidewalls yielded an easily seen pointer for the rear toe. A bit of trigonometry and simple measurement can generate quite an accurate outcome.
Cheers
Steve??
|
So setting the rear toe from the centreline , I gathered the best centreline to measure from would be to initially use a halfway mark on the rear suspension bottom crossbeam. I crawled under the car and looked at this and noticed a casting mark that runs along the centre of the transaxle casing . The centre of the crossbeam and centre of the casting are not in line so what should I use as the centreline ?
|
I appreciate your input and everyone elses. It looks like i have alot of reading to do and I will reach out to Steve as i actually have a order in im about to place. I will add an airbox and all the bits to it as well. Ill post some photos when im almost done with the car, thank you all as usual!
Sent with ProtonMail secure email.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
------- Original Message ------- On Monday, May 23rd, 2022 at 1:47 PM, Tim Engel <TSEngel@...> wrote: As Bill pointed out, using a stock-ish airbox is better than an open air filter like a K&N. K&N claims their fileters are freer flowing, so more air will get into the engine, and it will make more power. That would be true if all else were equal, but it's not. The airbox breathes cool, dense outside air, while the bare air filter breathes HOT, less dense engine bay air. The result is that less air on a 'mass' basis enters the engine via an open filter, so the engine makes less power.
There's an ideal trumpet length, depending upon your goal... longer for more low end torque, shorter for high rpm horsepower. On the stock 907 with Dellortos, Lotus used 45mm long trumpets in their airbox.
But in the real world, the trumpet length is limited by the air filter that is applied over it. Using K&N as an example again, their basic oval, open filter is available in different widths... narrow, medium, wide. Within the available filter space, the open end of the trumpet must not get too close to the filter's far wall, or airflow will be restricted/ pinched-off by a narrow gap between the trumpet and filter housing. Rule of Thumb: the gap between trumpet & housing should equal the Inside Diameter of the trumpet.
In early Weber DCOEs, the trumpet didn't just bolt to the carb's inlet flange. It also had a 'neck' that slipped into the carb's throat, and buttet up against the choke/ auxiliary venturi. When the trumpet's mounting bolts were tightened, it also pinched the choke/venturi tightly into place. Runing without the trumpets on those early carbs means the carb assembly is incomplete, and there is some elevated risk of fuel leaking out of the carb inlets.
Later, modern Weber DCOEs are more like Dellortos in that regard. They use a trumpet that just bolts on, without the neck that slides into the throat.
In either case, the real fuel leak risk will be a function of adjusting the fuel level too high, having an old leaky float that is taking on fuel and becoming too heavy, or an inlet valve that is not shutting off cleanly, and allowing excess fuel to enter the carb. "IF" the fuel level in the float bowl is correct, no fuel should spill over into the throats. Fuel leaks out of the carb inlets are not due to trumpet lengths... something else is at work. Trumpets are a secondary influence. Get the carbs 'right'.
~~*
The little hose spigot high-up on the filler neck is for collecting fuel vapors. A hose from each filler neck goes to a vapor cannistor first. There, any liquid fuel that gets into the vapor hoses is trapped, and remains until it evaporates. Only 'vapor' exits the cannister and continues to a charcoal cannister. All this is in response to government emissions mandates, and the need varied by market/ country.
If your car has none of that, then it shouldn't even have the hose spigots on the filler necks. The fact that the spigots are there indicates that the rest of the vapor control system should be there, but isn't.
Either way, if you're going to run without it, then use a length of fuel hose to connect the two small hose spigots. It won't 'collect' vapors any more, but it will equalize pressures within the two tanks. The original cross-over hose was routed above the window in the firewall. It was immediately above the window, under the edge of the carpet trim.
~~*
do they make a cover for the distributor...
Lotus didn't, and I'm not aware of an aftermarket cover. As Bill mentioned, it would be possible to fabricate a cover by cutting-up a plastic bottle (HDPE or PP plastic, but not PET or PETG). But a shield that effectively hides the distributor from any fuel leaks will also keep you from reaching it. Even with a shield, any fuel leaks will still collect in the many pockets between ribs on the side of the block. And liquid fuel will evaporate, creating a flammble cloud around the distributor or starter. Sparks and a flammable vapor are still a problem, and the real solution is to prevent/ not tolerate leaks... not to make an umbrella for the 'inevitable' leaks. :-/
Steven DuChene is a Lotus/ Jensen-Healey owner how had put together a distributorless ignition system for the 907, based on Ford EDIS parts. He sells a few special parts (not a complete kit) plus a set of instructions on how to make your own. But it's not a plug-n-play kit, you have to be the crafty type who can make and assemble the rest per instructions.
~~*
I'm firmly of the opinion that in all the photos you see of Esprits and other 9XX powered cars burning to the ground, it's the negligent owner's poor maintenance that is to blame. Not the crappy Lotus design, or the dangerous carbs as the storyline accompanying the flaming picture usually states.
Rubber gets old... that's a known fact. Whether it's hoses, or internal O-rings and diaphragms. It gets old, dries out, cracks and leaks. NORMAL maintenance is to regularly replace all of those on a TIME schedule BEFORE they get that old.
Similarly, carburettors are supposed to be pro-actively rebuilt on a TIME schedule. No, you do not way until you see/ feel tangible evidence that fuel is leaking from somewhere. A responsible owner doesn't wait for evidence of a leak. A responsible owner stays ahead of the maintenance schedule, and rebuilds the fuel system & carbs BEFORE anything goes wrong.
In those pictures of flaming cars, it's the cars that are victims of their irresponsible owners, not the owners that are victims of those crappy, dangerous cars. Unfortunately, in this modern phone app culture, far too many owners think washing & waxing the car, and filling the tank is maintenance... it's not.
Build your Weber DCOEs and supporting fuel system correctly, then maintain it on or ahead of schedule. Focusing on building a shield/ umbrella for the distributor (how about the starter?) is planning for the leak you feel is inevitable. The better solution is to build and maintain the system such that it doesn't leak in the first place (it does not leak by design), then commit to maintaining it properly over time.
Regards,
Tim Engel
05/22/2022 9:08PM ZenHorizon zenhorizon@... wrote:
I have a 79 series 2 esprit. I am close to done with the car, but have 2 bigh items coming up. I have weber 45 dcoe's that the previous owner installed years ago. I rebuilt them with a kit, but there are no velocity stacks. I know the engine was known as the torque less wonder, But i dont know what Stacks i Shoudl run. My car has no airbox, and i have a dreaded fear of the car catching fire due to leaky carbs. So my question is what stacks should I run for the best sound and least chance of leaks, or what air filters on the carbs for the 907.
My 2nd question is I just installed 2 new fuel tanks for sps sportscars. I have run the main line from both tanks from the fill port to the tank and the bigger vent to the tanks as well as a new style cross over pipe. I noticed on the drawings and on the filler neck there is a very small port and it shows a hose going to an evap tank. My car doesnt have this and I cannot find one on any vendor. DO I need this or is there any other way to set something up with those holes. As it is I am afraid gas will pour out that little port when I do fill ups or put fumes into the engine bay.
My 3rd question is do they make a cover for the distributor so if gas does leak it doesn't start a fire? I have seen rubber distributor covers on other cars but cant find an option for our model of distributor. If i went electronic distributor would it eliminate this threat? I researched distributorless ignition and lotus pbc sells a kit but its rather pricey but looks nice.
Regards, Blake in norfolk, VA
|
As Bill pointed out, using a stock-ish airbox is better than an open air filter like a K&N. K&N claims their fileters are freer flowing, so more air will get into the engine, and it will make more power. That would be true if all else were equal, but it's not. The airbox breathes cool, dense outside air, while the bare air filter breathes HOT, less dense engine bay air. The result is that less air on a 'mass' basis enters the engine via an open filter, so the engine makes less power. There's an ideal trumpet length, depending upon your goal... longer for more low end torque, shorter for high rpm horsepower. On the stock 907 with Dellortos, Lotus used 45mm long trumpets in their airbox. But in the real world, the trumpet length is limited by the air filter that is applied over it. Using K&N as an example again, their basic oval, open filter is available in different widths... narrow, medium, wide. Within the available filter space, the open end of the trumpet must not get too close to the filter's far wall, or airflow will be restricted/ pinched-off by a narrow gap between the trumpet and filter housing. Rule of Thumb: the gap between trumpet & housing should equal the Inside Diameter of the trumpet. In early Weber DCOEs, the trumpet didn't just bolt to the carb's inlet flange. It also had a 'neck' that slipped into the carb's throat, and buttet up against the choke/ auxiliary venturi. When the trumpet's mounting bolts were tightened, it also pinched the choke/venturi tightly into place. Runing without the trumpets on those early carbs means the carb assembly is incomplete, and there is some elevated risk of fuel leaking out of the carb inlets. Later, modern Weber DCOEs are more like Dellortos in that regard. They use a trumpet that just bolts on, without the neck that slides into the throat. In either case, the real fuel leak risk will be a function of adjusting the fuel level too high, having an old leaky float that is taking on fuel and becoming too heavy, or an inlet valve that is not shutting off cleanly, and allowing excess fuel to enter the carb. "IF" the fuel level in the float bowl is correct, no fuel should spill over into the throats. Fuel leaks out of the carb inlets are not due to trumpet lengths... something else is at work. Trumpets are a secondary influence. Get the carbs 'right'. *~*~* The little hose spigot high-up on the filler neck is for collecting fuel vapors. A hose from each filler neck goes to a vapor cannistor first. There, any liquid fuel that gets into the vapor hoses is trapped, and remains until it evaporates. Only 'vapor' exits the cannister and continues to a charcoal cannister. All this is in response to government emissions mandates, and the need varied by market/ country. If your car has none of that, then it shouldn't even have the hose spigots on the filler necks. The fact that the spigots are there indicates that the rest of the vapor control system should be there, but isn't. Either way, if you're going to run without it, then use a length of fuel hose to connect the two small hose spigots. It won't 'collect' vapors any more, but it will equalize pressures within the two tanks. The original cross-over hose was routed above the window in the firewall. It was immediately above the window, under the edge of the carpet trim. *~*~* do they make a cover for the distributor... Lotus didn't, and I'm not aware of an aftermarket cover. As Bill mentioned, it would be possible to fabricate a cover by cutting-up a plastic bottle (HDPE or PP plastic, but not PET or PETG). But a shield that effectively hides the distributor from any fuel leaks will also keep you from reaching it. Even with a shield, any fuel leaks will still collect in the many pockets between ribs on the side of the block. And liquid fuel will evaporate, creating a flammble cloud around the distributor or starter. Sparks and a flammable vapor are still a problem, and the real solution is to prevent/ not tolerate leaks... not to make an umbrella for the 'inevitable' leaks. :-/ Steven DuChene is a Lotus/ Jensen-Healey owner how had put together a distributorless ignition system for the 907, based on Ford EDIS parts. He sells a few special parts (not a complete kit) plus a set of instructions on how to make your own. But it's not a plug-n-play kit, you have to be the crafty type who can make and assemble the rest per instructions. *~*~* I'm firmly of the opinion that in all the photos you see of Esprits and other 9XX powered cars burning to the ground, it's the negligent owner's poor maintenance that is to blame. Not the crappy Lotus design, or the dangerous carbs as the storyline accompanying the flaming picture usually states. Rubber gets old... that's a known fact. Whether it's hoses, or internal O-rings and diaphragms. It gets old, dries out, cracks and leaks. NORMAL maintenance is to regularly replace all of those on a TIME schedule BEFORE they get that old. Similarly, carburettors are supposed to be pro-actively rebuilt on a TIME schedule. No, you do not way until you see/ feel tangible evidence that fuel is leaking from somewhere. A responsible owner doesn't wait for evidence of a leak. A responsible owner stays ahead of the maintenance schedule, and rebuilds the fuel system & carbs BEFORE anything goes wrong. In those pictures of flaming cars, it's the cars that are victims of their irresponsible owners, not the owners that are victims of those crappy, dangerous cars. Unfortunately, in this modern phone app culture, far too many owners think washing & waxing the car, and filling the tank is maintenance... it's not. Build your Weber DCOEs and supporting fuel system correctly, then maintain it on or ahead of schedule. Focusing on building a shield/ umbrella for the distributor (how about the starter?) is planning for the leak you feel is inevitable. The better solution is to build and maintain the system such that it doesn't leak in the first place (it does not leak by design), then commit to maintaining it properly over time. Regards, Tim Engel 05/22/2022 9:08PM ZenHorizon <zenhorizon@...> wrote:
I have a 79 series 2 esprit. I am close to done with the car, but have 2 bigh items coming up. I have weber 45 dcoe's that the previous owner installed years ago. I rebuilt them with a kit, but there are no velocity stacks. I know the engine was known as the torque less wonder, But i dont know what Stacks i Shoudl run. My car has no airbox, and i have a dreaded fear of the car catching fire due to leaky carbs. So my question is what stacks should I run for the best sound and least chance of leaks, or what air filters on the carbs for the 907.
My 2nd question is I just installed 2 new fuel tanks for sps sportscars. I have run the main line from both tanks from the fill port to the tank and the bigger vent to the tanks as well as a new style cross over pipe. I noticed on the drawings and on the filler neck there is a very small port and it shows a hose going to an evap tank. My car doesnt have this and I cannot find one on any vendor. DO I need this or is there any other way to set something up with those holes. As it is I am afraid gas will pour out that little port when I do fill ups or put fumes into the engine bay.?
?My 3rd question is do they make a cover for the distributor so if gas does leak it doesn't start a fire? I have seen rubber distributor covers on other cars but cant find an option for our model of distributor. If i went electronic distributor would it eliminate this threat? I researched distributorless ignition and lotus pbc sells a kit but its rather pricey but looks nice.?
Regards, Blake in norfolk, VA
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The airbox was designed to the correct volume for resonant tuning, gives meaningful bump to power in the tuned RPM band. Use one along with a proper air filter and cold air trunking, K&N's for DCOE look cool and add bark to the induction noise but, as Bill says, draw hot engine bay air plus are not well regarded in terms of filtration. Carb related fires have been a major peril for cars fitted with the 900 series lotus engine, with total loss of the vehicle a real possibility. Electronic triggered distributor does not eliminate the hazard as there are still arcs on the high tension side from rotor to plug wire posts. Conversion to crank-fired, distributor-less layout resolves a number of issues and will help reduce the fire risk.? Effective measures that mitigate much of the Webers' leaking, not to mention performance shortcomings, are to be had over on the Sidedraft forum hosted at the attached link. Highly recommended.
https://vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io/g/sidedraft/topics
Cheers
Steve
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Go for the Standard filter/trumpets/airbox
re route the intake trunking to the airbox so that the right side cooling ¡°ear¡± intake supplies it.
I fitted megajolt distributorless ignition to mine in 2009.
never looked back since
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On 2022-05-22 19:08, ZenHorizon via groups.io wrote: I have a 79 series 2 esprit. I am close to done with the car, but have
2 bigh items coming up. I have weber 45 dcoe's that the previous owner
installed years ago. I rebuilt them with a kit, but there are no
velocity stacks. I know the engine was known as the torque less
wonder, But i dont know what Stacks i Shoudl run. My car has no
airbox, and i have a dreaded fear of the car catching fire due to
leaky carbs. So my question is what stacks should I run for the best
sound and least chance of leaks, or what air filters on the carbs for
the 907.
My 2nd question is I just installed 2 new fuel tanks for sps
sportscars. I have run the main line from both tanks from the fill
port to the tank and the bigger vent to the tanks as well as a new
style cross over pipe. I noticed on the drawings and on the filler
neck there is a very small port and it shows a hose going to an evap
tank. My car doesnt have this and I cannot find one on any vendor. DO
I need this or is there any other way to set something up with those
holes. As it is I am afraid gas will pour out that little port when I
do fill ups or put fumes into the engine bay.
My 3rd question is do they make a cover for the distributor so if gas
does leak it doesn't start a fire? I have seen rubber distributor
covers on other cars but cant find an option for our model of
distributor. If i went electronic distributor would it eliminate this
threat? I researched distributorless ignition and lotus pbc sells a
kit but its rather pricey but looks nice.
Regards, Blake in norfolk, VA
_._,_._,_ Blake, 1. Sj Sportscars sells the trumpets for the S1/S2 with Dellorto carbs, for $18 each. These are also available for Dellorto suppliers as well, but price may vary greatly. I am an Aeronautical Engineer, and did the calculations once on the effects of running without an airbox. The engine would be sucking in warm or hot air instead of the coolest air available. I wrote up my findings in a paper, which you can find on my web site: www.holycows.net\Lotus The airbox and back panel are available from SJ. If you question my findings, please name all the cars that come from the factory without a cold air induction system. I'll wait. ? 3. I took a plastic container and sliced it vertically so that it slips over the distributor, which keeps fuel off of the distributor. Also make it a habit to turn the fuel pump on and check for leaks anytime that you work on anything back there, and on a regular basis Bill 77 S1 "Charro" 79 S2 JPS Federal 24
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I have a 79 series 2 esprit. I am close to done with the car, but have 2 bigh items coming up. I have weber 45 dcoe's that the previous owner installed years ago. I rebuilt them with a kit, but there are no velocity stacks. I know the engine was known as the torque less wonder, But i dont know what Stacks i Shoudl run. My car has no airbox, and i have a dreaded fear of the car catching fire due to leaky carbs. So my question is what stacks should I run for the best sound and least chance of leaks, or what air filters on the carbs for the 907.
My 2nd question is I just installed 2 new fuel tanks for sps sportscars. I have run the main line from both tanks from the fill port to the tank and the bigger vent to the tanks as well as a new style cross over pipe. I noticed on the drawings and on the filler neck there is a very small port and it shows a hose going to an evap tank. My car doesnt have this and I cannot find one on any vendor. DO I need this or is there any other way to set something up with those holes. As it is I am afraid gas will pour out that little port when I do fill ups or put fumes into the engine bay.?
?My 3rd question is do they make a cover for the distributor so if gas does leak it doesn't start a fire? I have seen rubber distributor covers on other cars but cant find an option for our model of distributor. If i went electronic distributor would it eliminate this threat? I researched distributorless ignition and lotus pbc sells a kit but its rather pricey but looks nice.?
Regards, Blake in norfolk, VA
|
Is the psi value known for the oil switch in series with the Anti Run-On Valve??
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Re: [LotusEliteType14] Esprit prototype
Further down as if Doug Fraser sent it, I just forwarded and went as that, LotusChrysler engine in an Esprit, Gordon
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 13, 2022, at 10:42 PM, wigl@... wrote:
?Hey Gordon, nothing attached to your posting.
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Re: [LotusEliteType14] Esprit prototype
Hey Gordon, nothing attached to your posting.
|
[LotusEliteType14] Esprit prototype
Got off Type 14 list!
Begin forwarded message:
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Show quoted text
? I don¡¯t subscribe to any of the Esprit groups, but I thought this was interesting. ? In the ¡°Where is it now?¡± category, the prototype Lotus/Chrysler Esprit: ? 
? This photo was sent to me by Michael Royce, who was the program manager of several projects at Lotus Engineering during the mid-80¡¯s. ? He said he has no idea where the car may have ended up. ? -Doug
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Re: Don't use anti-seize on NGK spark plugs
Great info, Bill, thanks!
|
Don't use anti-seize on NGK spark plugs
Ran across an interesting article while researching plug for my Jaguar XKR, but it applies to our Lotus cars as well ?
? 1. Anti-seize NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize. Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental. 2. Corona stain Corona stain is a light brown or tan discoloration on the outside of the ceramic insulator above the metal shell/hex. Corona stain is created by the high voltage traveling thru the plug that attracts the dirt or oil particles surrounding the exposed ceramic insulator between the wire/coil boot and spark plug metal shell. Corona stain is completely normal and should not be mistaken for exhaust gas blow-by or a broken seal inside the spark plug. 3. Gapping fine-wire spark plugs While most NGK spark plugs are pre-gapped, there are occasions when the gap requires adjustment. Care must be taken to avoid bending or breaking off the fine-wire electrodes. NGK recommends a round wire-style or pin gauge gap tool to measure the gap. If the gap must be adjusted, use a tool that only moves the ground electrode and does not pry between or against the electrodes. NGK also recommends adjusting the gap no more than +/- 0.008¡± from the factory preset gap. 4. Torque Torque is crucial in the ability of the plug to dissipate heat and perform properly. Always follow the manufacturer recommended torque specification. An under-torqued spark plug can lead to excessive vibration and improper heat dissipation, causing spark plug and/or engine damage. Over torquing may cause any of the following: thread damage/breakage, compromised internal seals leading to gas leakage, metal shell stretch leading to poor heat dissipation and pre-ignition. 5.¡°Copper spark plugs¡± ¡°Copper spark plugs¡± is a term often used to describe a standard material spark plug. However, this terminology is incorrect, as standard material plugs do not have electrodes made from copper. Copper is soft with a low melting point and cannot be used for electrodes, as they would wear very quickly. A standard material spark plug uses a nickel-alloy that may include a small copper core. The copper core has nothing to do with the electrical performance of the spark plug. A copper core is used to increase heat dissipation and durability by lowering the electrode temperatures. Nearly all NGK spark plugs, including precious metal iridium and platinum plugs, have a copper core to increase the electrode durability. Special nickel alloys, platinum, and iridium electrodes, along with copper cores are all used to enhance durability ¨C durability meaning how long a spark plug will last before it needs to be replaced. ?
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Back to sunvisors for just a moment as I¡¯m not a hat guy at all and sunvisors are useful in Texas with that big windshield so here¡¯s a look at what it is cut open, and I just cut open one side and took out the guts and then reuse the black side and replaced the white side which was all shredded with a kind of muslin fabric you see next to it; I took a thick piece of foam rubber and split it around the edge to let it capture the metal frame of the visor and then I put tape all around it and then put it in the remade fabric piece along with new metal attachment points that I got from from SJ, Gordon
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 19, 2022, at 8:57 AM, LYN A WECHSLER <ESPRIT@...> wrote:
?
Have you seen this ¡°sun visor¡±?? Supposed to be ¡°official¡± from the
mother country.
?
From: Bill
Galbraith
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2022 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] Mounting Sun
Visors
?
Toaph,
?
Be
the first in your neighborhood to have the advanced Head-mounted sun visor.
?
?
Bill
?
?
?
?
You guys
with your sun visors.? It is a luxury I expect to never know in my
S1.? I actually have the originals in a box somewhere, but the thing they
attach to is fubar.? Maybe after a few years of "trouble-free" driving
it'll rise up in my priorities.
On
Monday, April 18, 2022, 08:36:12 PM EDT, gsauerphd1 via groups.io
<gsauerphd@...> wrote:
Yes,
I cut the threads and undid it and took the deteriorated foam out and put new
foam in and a waterproof kind of piece of cardboard that they use in car work to
give it body and then thin foam on either side to give it about the thickness
that it had and then sewed it back together, Gordon
On
Apr 18, 2022, at 3:39 PM, palmer.jeff@...
wrote:
?On
a related note, has anyone restored his/her sun visors? If so, how? Mine are
like bags full of decomposed foam.
Thanks,
Jeff, 139H
|
Have you seen this ¡°sun visor¡±?? Supposed to be ¡°official¡± from the
mother country.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Bill
Galbraith
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2022 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] Mounting Sun
Visors
?
Toaph,
?
Be
the first in your neighborhood to have the advanced Head-mounted sun visor.
?
?
Bill
?
?
?
?
You guys
with your sun visors.? It is a luxury I expect to never know in my
S1.? I actually have the originals in a box somewhere, but the thing they
attach to is fubar.? Maybe after a few years of "trouble-free" driving
it'll rise up in my priorities.
On
Monday, April 18, 2022, 08:36:12 PM EDT, gsauerphd1 via groups.io
<gsauerphd@...> wrote:
Yes,
I cut the threads and undid it and took the deteriorated foam out and put new
foam in and a waterproof kind of piece of cardboard that they use in car work to
give it body and then thin foam on either side to give it about the thickness
that it had and then sewed it back together, Gordon
On
Apr 18, 2022, at 3:39 PM, palmer.jeff@...
wrote:
?On
a related note, has anyone restored his/her sun visors? If so, how? Mine are
like bags full of decomposed foam.
Thanks,
Jeff, 139H
|
Love it. Great idea. ? Do you wear your Lotus shirt to the John Deere gathering? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Toaph via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2022 8:48 AM
To: [email protected]; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] Mounting Sun Visors? Okay, now that we're sliding off topic... I own a few marques that are known for brand loyalty: Citroen, Volvo, VW.? When I go to meets I see plenty of people wearing the brand apparel.? But when I started going to Lotus meets, I found that EVERYONE was wearing Lotus stuff.? I mean every single person without exception was festooned in ACBC logos.? I'm a little bit too much of an iconoclast for that.? The more something is expected the more I tend to reject it.? I've ultimately taken to wearing John Deere apparel when I attend Lotus events, because the colors are almost exactly the same.? Plus I love the non sequitur.?? On Tuesday, April 19, 2022, 08:39:38 AM EDT, Bill Galbraith <lotus@...> wrote: Toaph, ? Be the first in your neighborhood to have the advanced Head-mounted sun visor. ? ? Bill ? ? 
? ? You guys with your sun visors.? It is a luxury I expect to never know in my S1.? I actually have the originals in a box somewhere, but the thing they attach to is fubar.? Maybe after a few years of "trouble-free" driving it'll rise up in my priorities. On Monday, April 18, 2022, 08:36:12 PM EDT, gsauerphd1 via groups.io <gsauerphd@...> wrote: Yes, I cut the threads and undid it and took the deteriorated foam out and put new foam in and a waterproof kind of piece of cardboard that they use in car work to give it body and then thin foam on either side to give it about the thickness that it had and then sewed it back together, Gordon ?On a related note, has anyone restored his/her sun visors? If so, how? Mine are like bags full of decomposed foam.
Thanks,?
Jeff, 139H
|
Okay, now that we're sliding off topic...
I own a few marques that are known for brand loyalty: Citroen, Volvo, VW.? When I go to meets I see plenty of people wearing the brand apparel.? But when I started going to Lotus meets, I found that EVERYONE was wearing Lotus stuff.? I mean every single person without exception was festooned in ACBC logos.? I'm a little bit too much of an iconoclast for that.? The more something is expected the more I tend to reject it.? I've ultimately taken to wearing John Deere apparel when I attend Lotus events, because the colors are almost exactly the same.? Plus I love the non sequitur.??
-- Toaph
On Tuesday, April 19, 2022, 08:39:38 AM EDT, Bill Galbraith <lotus@...> wrote:
Toaph, ? Be the first in your neighborhood to have the advanced Head-mounted sun visor. ? ? Bill ? ? 
?
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Toaph via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2022 8:34 AM
To: [email protected]; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners] Mounting Sun Visors ? You guys with your sun visors.? It is a luxury I expect to never know in my S1.? I actually have the originals in a box somewhere, but the thing they attach to is fubar.? Maybe after a few years of "trouble-free" driving it'll rise up in my priorities. On Monday, April 18, 2022, 08:36:12 PM EDT, gsauerphd1 via groups.io <gsauerphd@...> wrote: Yes, I cut the threads and undid it and took the deteriorated foam out and put new foam in and a waterproof kind of piece of cardboard that they use in car work to give it body and then thin foam on either side to give it about the thickness that it had and then sewed it back together, Gordon
On Apr 18, 2022, at 3:39 PM, palmer.jeff@... wrote:
?On a related note, has anyone restored his/her sun visors? If so, how? Mine are like bags full of decomposed foam.
Thanks,?
Jeff, 139H
|
ZenHorizon
Bill Galbraith
