There should be a diagnosis title for that condition: seeing what one THINKS one is seeing…. I have had that disease since childhood and it gets me in trouble frequently with my XYL.
On Dec 24, 2024, at 12:44?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.mm0fmf@...> wrote:
?On 24/12/2024 16:58, terompet via groups.io wrote:
I guess I should have had 3 watt expectations when I ordered. C'est la vie.
Maybe read the description carefully and ensure you understand what it says next time.
Not that I think Hans' descriptions are misleading or designed to confuse. You just need to make sure you know what it says and not what you think it says.
Hi all, may I wish you all a happy new year and say a big thank you to all you builders who post questions on this site. I look forward to the daily digest each morning to read the queries, it starts my day with a smile, sometimes a full blown laugh.
Just think about the efforts people do to have 2 db more gain with antennas...
Peter,
Yes, 2dB will make a contact that is just missed without it. Add 2dB and then an extra 2dB will make a contact that is just missed without it. And so on until you have more dB than anyone else.... By then QRP is abandoned:-)
As others have said the QMX+ could most likely be tweaked to give 5 Watts on 20m at the expense of what else is on the same LPF. And, as others have said maybe the PA will last longer with 3 Watts. The QMX is not an expensive complex rig where everything is calculated to the last fraction of a dB.
No, don’t worry. Be Happy! ?You can fiddle with the toroids and mess up a great radio or be satisfied with those power output readings…. Anything over 3 watts is excellent and the ham at the other end won’t know the difference. ?If you are concerned build a 10 watt amplifier or even a 50 watt one. You will have to reduce your output power so you don’t blow up the amp though. ?
?
My QRP Labs built QMX+ runs a little lower in output on some bands but it’s fine in my book. ?
On Dec 24, 2024, at 10:23?AM, terompet via groups.io <terompet@...> wrote:
?
My new assembled QMX+ showed up on my doorstep yesterday and I was very excited!? Everything checks out fine, but I find that I am disappointed in the reported power output levels: 160m 5.7w, 80m 4.8w, 60m 4.1w, 40m 3.9w, 30m 4.5w, 20m 3.3w, 17m 3.1w, 15m 4.5w, 12m 3.2w, 10m 3.8w, 6m 3.1w.? I am most disappointed with 3.3w on 20 meters since that is my goto qrp band.? I guess that I was expecting power output numbers on all bands to be closer to 5 watts.? Should I be disappointed?
The best investment I ever made is the Donegan Optical Loupe. ?I had two from my medical practice. They are worth the money (the Donegan brand) but like everything else the Chinese knockoffs are good also. Here is one that is recommended and looks like my original ones: ?
I also use frequently the add on flip down loupe:
This is a Donegan product and I found it quite useful. ?It fits on the front of the head loupe.
Also this lighting system has been useful for years:
?Worth the extra money.
I bought my originals from Micro-Mark but they seem to be out of stock on a lot of these items. ?My Donegan units are 30+ years old and still working and holding up well. I can’t vouch for the Chinese items but they are cheaper. The Donegan OptiLoupe runs about $70 for the basic head unit with one lens. ?I use the 2x lens 99% of the time but you can figure that from any “readers” you usually use. I use 2.5 x readers for reading and for shack close uo work but keep a set of 2.75, 3, 4 x readers in construction booth. ?
As for soldering stations I have used the Solomon brand from Amazon for years too.
This is a newer version. I use two of them, one for a fine tip and one with a heavier tip for larger items that require more heat like BNC and power connectors.
As for solder, I use Kester 60/40 that I buy from Steve, The Solder Man at Dayton. Easily available. ?Do NOT use lead free solder.
On Dec 24, 2024, at 3:15?PM, Curt wb8yyy via groups.io <wb8yyy@...> wrote:
?
Dave
?
You don't need a boatload of equipment. Also note focus is through hole construction. Don't need paste, just quality solder. I see plenty of nice enough gear out there. Definitely temperature regulation. Some swear by Hakko but others may be good enough. You may want a stand magnifier. All this should easily be in your budget.?
?
Oh I built my K2 with a plain soldering iron, but I suggest a modest investment in a soldering station.?
My new assembled QMX+ showed up on my doorstep yesterday and I was very excited!? Everything checks out fine, but I find that I am disappointed in the reported power output levels: 160m 5.7w, 80m 4.8w, 60m 4.1w, 40m 3.9w, 30m 4.5w, 20m 3.3w, 17m 3.1w, 15m 4.5w, 12m 3.2w, 10m 3.8w, 6m 3.1w.? I am most disappointed with 3.3w on 20 meters since that is my goto qrp band.? I guess that I was expecting power output numbers on all bands to be closer to 5 watts.? Should I be disappointed?
I checked the PCB for solder bridges with a sharp knife.
?
I'm not sure if I made a mistake in former measurements. But now resistance between R2/3 and D1 is 28,5 ohms. No matter, if C3 is installed or removed. C3 is okay (1.02 uF).
I have bought a few months ago a JBC BT-2BQA soldering station with a few different tips. With this 140W soldering iron it was convenant to solder the QMX+. A simple and good tool for electronic soldering.?
The Pinecil is the neatest thing I've ever seen and is top 3 best value items you can spend money on.
? $25 gets you an self-contained smart iron (with Bluetooth app) that is powered off USB-PD or DC jack 12v-21/24v (18v drill batteries work great)?
? I've done SOT-23 SMD work and 6AWG solder cup cannon plugs with the same iron (quick change tips)
?
Kester #44 67/33 eutectic solder? I'm more a sticker on the eutectic mix than the brand I've not heard any reasons 60/40 is better, And lead free is mandated trash and should be avoided at all cost.
? ? Thin solder is necessary for small components but works fine on larger stuff just a pain to feed in 6 inches at once. The $11 tube of .031 off amazon is very nice and decent all around to use. Solder-paste is genius for SMD components and kinda OK to help tin stuff I guess.
?
RMA flux is very cool and makes things a dream to solder compared to using just flux core solder. I got that amtech stuff Louis Rossman recommends but know nothing more about flux than that.
?
I would add a roll of MG chemicals de soldering braid, 2.5mm and 6mm. NTE blue label is what Ive always used but they are out of business so probly won't find that
?
TLDR;
Iron: buy the Pinecil and the fine tips set
Solder: kester 44 .031?
Flux: Amtech NC-559-V2-TF or other recommendations?
I use fldigi on occasion - with flrig to control the QMX.
In flrig, you set the config to talk to the QMX - there is even an entry for it in their 'rig' selection:
?
Note that it is good to set the polling interval up as high as it will go - the QMX firmware is not expecting rapid polling.
The 'update' button by the com port selection re-scans the computer com ports, which is useful if you start the program before your QMX has been cabled and powered on.? Press the 'init' button to connect after you select the port.? I have seen the 'connected' indication get stuck at green when it is not connected, so keep that in mind.? You can tell it is connected back in the main flrig window because it will update the frequency display, A/B, and PTT buttons will work.
One more flrig config window I played with:
I reduced the number of controls it would try to poll for.
?
In fldigi itself, you need to select the rig control and soundcard:
Rig control needs set to 'flrig'.? I tried Hamlib, but was having problems, so I switched to fldigi.
?
Under soundcard select the QMX in and out devices.? If you don't see these, restart the QMX and this program, and also make sure the QMX does NOT have I/Q Mode enabled (that disables the soundcard devices).
?
Also, in the bottom-right corner of the fldigi window, to the right of the received signal indicator, is a "TX Level Attenuator" control.? That should be set to 0, so a maximum signal level goes out on TX.
?
You also must disable the fldigi TxID feature, because the timing of the TxID preamble fools the QMX data detection routine, and it will only transmit the few milliseconds of the preamble then cut out.? Alternately, you can set the QMX digimode rise and fall thresholds to zero, which works ok, but disables the cleaning the QMX normally does on its output waveform, so the signal start/stop won't be as clean.? At some point this may get fixed in the firmware - it's on Hans list.
?
That's about it, other than to remember it will only currently work on CW, RTTY and MFSK modes - ones that transition between single tones.? It will not work properly on any of the phase-shifting (PSK) modes.? I have used it on MFSK and RTTY.
The difference between 3W and 5W is -2 dB, or 1/3 of an S-Unit. In the real world, there's no perceptible difference between 3W and 5W under normal conditions.
Any temperature controlled station from Hakko, Weller or Metcal will be more that adequate for ham use.
?
For a kit with new parts, you could use a leaded solder (60/40 or 63/37) with a no clean flux. Save the ugly rosin core for dirty antenna wires :-) in either case, scrub the flux off with 99% IPA and blow that off with compressed air.?
?
ROHS is not a requirement for homebrew stuff, at least in the USA. IMO, Kester still tops the list, but there are a few others out there.
?
Repairs and correcting mistakes on PTH components is a real pain without a powered vacuum desoldering tool. Check out the Hakko 808, or don't screw up!
?
Dave
Release of version 1.2 of ABS solution for QMX+ (Automatic internal antenna tuner, internal battery and internal speaker with audio amp)
#ABS
#ATU
#PSU
#QMXplus
1 Mohm water (or better) is produced by reverse osmosis units and DI units such as that marketed by Culligan and other supply houses. Call your plumber and have an “RO” unit installed if you don't already have such a beast. You salesman will be amazed… Jack KD4IZ
No!? You should not be disappointed.? I get 2.8 watts on 20.? That was enough for 101 contacts in 41 countries at last month's CQ WW DX contest.? There's not that much difference between 5 watts and 2.8 watts.