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Dirk, Please delete and do not distribute the fabrication files of a front panel PCB which has a logo! It was my mistake to keep it there for few days before I deleted it. I did not think this will be

Mmmh, so do I have to scratch off the logo know? I already have a set of these "illegal" front panel PCB's :-/ More important: I made a stupid mistake while checking the raly status of the ATU! They

Not so. You have device manager which tells you if you are missing or have bad driver and this is where "informative" part of device manager ends. While on Linux systems component level diagnostics

Below is a sneak peak and teaser of what is coming with version 2 of the solution. I am still at early stages of testing. The PCB on the left is a crown jewel - it has 100% smd components, circuits

Cal, This is the latest revision I did to v1.2 Companion board. I have added two M3 holes - one is between JP102 and switch, second - next to the R1. These could be used to attach 10mm/8mm nylon

I would disagree:-) Windows tells you everything necessary. "Device Manager" for a start. It is simply a matter of learning how to see and use the information. For someone who has never used Linux it

I have followed email responses like this for years and have learned by observation. I do not use wall warts in ham radio, at least any wall warts made after about 1990 as most are junk. There is a

Since Windows systems are not so much informative to users i would sugest you to do this. If you have another pc/laptop install any Linux distribution and attach your QMX When attached start konsole

Oops--I forgot to remove the "P" myself. If you want to run either flat-top or button-top 18650 cells, get the non-P version from Digikey: 36-1043-ND. A link to the datasheet covering all version is

Hi Mike, Probably--but Hans hasn't kicked us out of here yet! :) Plus, we are too busy for any interruptions right now. All of my time (not really "spare time" either) has been going into this project

Hi Sardar, I replaced my short burned trace with a short piece of 28 AWG wire wrap "blue wire." I'm back up and running with an 800 ohm resistor across the op amp inputs. (I didn't have any 750s, as

Thx Stan. I won't really be using 60 or 30 at all and likely just 80 for receiving during FMT runs. 40 and 20 are in the 5 watt ballpark.? And you are right about changing out BS170's. Not an awful

Then your transformer and all is being very efficient!? I would be happy and enjoy it.? A few now have commented on higher power with the finer wire. Stan KC7XE

Thanks for the reply Stan. Nope? 9V build, 9V supply. Vin reading 9.01V.VCC is 3.28 volts and Vdd is dead on 5.0 volts at the test points on the PCB.? All diag tests look good, though a few of the

Cal, This is how new revision v1.2 looks like (pictures). One more change I did - based on Dirk's feedback I have increased the footprints for resistors and ceramic capacitors. Yep, traces are now 2mm

So if I understand correctly, you built it for 9V, but you are running it at (PD) 12V, and as a result you are getting 5-7W out instead of the normal 3.5-5W out. Assuming the above is correct, and if

Yes, this could be a reason that your transmit is not working - the full 5V is required to switch the amplifier transistors on/off. Your battery should be fine, as long as its voltage isn't far above

That waveform looks about right - much better and much different than the one before.? I think something changed more than just your scope settings and probe. Your scope is showing about 10x the

Folks, Do you think this topic deserves its own groups.io group? The thread is at 225 messages and counting. (If you create it, I'll subscribe) 73, Mike KK7ER

And on the QMX, it is very easy to get a solder bridge between the lead and the encoder case, since they are so close, which causes a short.? So I like to wrap a layer of Kapton tape around the