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Adam: I wan't trying to pass judgement, I just think that it is hard on a car that isnt made for groung pounding, like 12 bolt rear ends or 9 inch fords and big and small blocks etc. Now i can see a

It was better than that; they were not using the bus stop or the chicane on the front straight. You come sweeping out of turn 8 power through turn 9 onto the front straight and then just go full

I agree that they need to be driven, like anything they fall apart sitting...I would be scarred to death to unload the clutch at high revs all day. I had two alcy dragsters they ran 6.25 et at 230 and

Hi Lloyd, Now that would be a sight (and sound) to hear you coming out of the chicane full throttle!!!!! straight wide open (yes, toto, you can hit turn one doing in excess of 120 MPH). There were

Hi Adam, Thanks, the FPR is on back order for the moment (probably not ready for drag day) but will take you up on your offer once it comes in. I will probably spring for the A/F meter (with injector

Louie wrote: set Hey Tom, I've got a fuel pressure gauge somewhere if you need to borrow it. I bought a while ago trouble shooting a fuel system failure in a GMC Jimmy I had a while back. It's one

I have heard that at high revs the some of the journals get starved for oil and that may be what happened, it is corrected by buying a redrilled crankshaft, I am curious as to why everyone wants to

Lloyd wrote: straight wide >open (yes, toto, you can hit turn one doing in excess of 120 MPH). Talk about some serious G's, I don't know if I'd have the kahuna's to stick turn one, I could see myself

I went out to SIR today to get some seat time with ProFormance. If you ever get the chance you should do this. They run the front straight wide open (yes, toto, you can hit turn one doing in excess of

midlman@... writes: Hi Tom, Yes It needs to be set/optimized. You will need a fuel pressure gauge to set it to the correct (stock) pressure to start with. The instructions that come with the

Thanks Louie, I have an adjustable FPR on order and it needs to be adjusted/optimized after installation. Is there another way to do this (without A/F meter) or is this a necessity. I assume the car

Hi everyone, I would like to know if anyone knows how to get readings from the O2 sensor. I know Louie had something rigged up at the dyno day, I have a digital multi-meter, is there a way to hook it

midlman@... writes: Hi Tom, Yes, there is a way. The easiest is to order the A/F meter from Dave Roberts. It costs about $100 and is a quality unit. It had good installation instructions. I

On my last post I stated how I munged up two of the valve cover bolts on reinstall. I talked it over with Wally Plumley at 928 SP, who was quite suprised (like myself) as to what happened. He was

Adam Nasty, no all my studs went back in without any issue and I used the same procedure you did so nothing wrong there. I think I would be tempted to take the valve covers off and check for debris

I installed my Nology wires, which was simple enough. I did have something strange happen, twice as a matter of fact, and would like some input. (Chris are you reading this?) First off, the upgraded

Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 23:26:51 -0700 From: "Jim & Tina" <nebraska@...> Subject: Re: Re; Coil discussions Oh;insulted again!! that would be old Chevies with the coil in cap thingy Current

Yeah, I finally figured out what was wrong with my heaters temp control. Just in time for summer mind you. I just wanted to take this time to let everyone know that I will be out of town for a week,

Guys, be prepared ...if you order the Titanium rods (Oliver, from England, I think) Over $3K, and they still are not here after being ordered at the end of Feb. Don(don' need no steenkin' stroker to

Yep, I have a G-tech that I haven't used in the 928 yet it worked consistent numbers in the Talon; due to how it is measuring it will never be the same as the drag strip but for tuning purposes it is