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Good Day Microphone Fans. I have a pair of very low cost little circuit boards for condenser capsules. I purchased them in the spirit of DIY experimentation, notwithstanding I cannot find any information about them. Can anyone tell me anything helpful about either of the boards shown in the attached images? I prefer not to guess what sort of capsule matches each of them, respectively. I do not mind experimenting, but loathe the prospect of roaching them or any capsules by letting the all-important essential smoke out by inappropriate pairing. Thanks loads. James

Have some questions about building a AOM-5024L-HD-R mono mic to connect to a USB sound card to capture low frequency sounds. This is some info from the web: 1) A reviewer of a Ugreen USB sound card says: The microphone input is designed for a 3.5mm stereo mini phone plug. If you use a microphone with a mono plug, such as a Denon receiver calibration microphone, be sure to plug the microphone in only partially – if you plug it all the way in, it will NOT work. It should also be noted that the UGreen USB audio adapter will output stereo but the microphone input is mono only. 2) The mic input power for several USB sound cards can range from 2.43-4.59V and the nominal spec for the AOM is 3V. 3) The recommended soldering duration for each terminal should be 2 seconds and a metal fixture can be used to hold and act as a heatsink. What are your thoughts on using lead-free solder and is extra rosin necessary? Which sites do you recommend for parts like 3.5mm plug and bare wire? Can you buy the AOM capsule with cables already soldered, or on a PCB? Can you recommend a budget soldering iron/station, quality seems to be an issue when reading reviews? I remember soldering a small chip to a Playstation with a no-name iron, but the solder was probably lead based.

I bought, at Aliexpress, such an ultrasonic transducer: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002546378216.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.77f7f19cNIRHnf Soldered it to a piece of cable - single shielded wire (see pictures) with 6,3 mm plug I had laying around and it is quiet. In 2 wire cable with shielding mount and an XLR plug there is a faint buzz, eliminated totally when shielding is connected to the outer case (obviously). No buzz, no hum, just silence. I ran few tests - it seems to have good sensitivity. Easy to handle, to press against a surface. Looks very promising. Haven't tested it as a hydrophone yet, for the lack of handy stream near by.

Hi There folks! I've been experiencing some RF interference on some PUI AOM 5035L mics into a WM8960 CODEC. Any advice on how to mitigate this would be much appreciated! Sorry for the long message, but here it goes... I like these mics for my application (loud drums) because of their really high AOP (135dB) and big SNR (75dB). For the most part, I've been pretty happy with my project. In my basement, and around my house, I experience superb sound quality with no RF interference. But at my favorite drum rehearsal spot (drumbox in Lafayette), I am experiencing RF noise. I will attach a recording I made of the sound, if your curious or might be able to help identify the kind and/or source. I've tried many things, including the following: 1) Turning off all bluetooth and I2S communications on my microcontroller. It is simply controlling the PGA gains on the mic inputs and passing that through the CODEC in the analog bypass paths. This is less likely to be the culprit, because in my basement I don't experience the RF interference (even with BT/I2S running). 2) Upgrading all audio and data cables to shieled (Mogami W2697). 3) Wrapping a GND wire around the small connection from CODEC to MIC (which includes it's required pull-down resistor and in-series cap mini-PCB). 4) Putting my entire "right ear" electronics inside a box that I covered with copper tape (two layers). FWW, this stops any RF noise introduced by when I hold my RC airplane transmitter nearby. But doesn't stop the drumbox RF noise. Which I'm guessing is a stronger RF signal (?). 5) Putting a separate CODEC in the left ear, in hopes that the shorter distance of the left mic and left CODEC would help. But still no luck. I later found out that the RF noise can also enter my right ear signal - depending on the rotational position of my head (while wearing the headphones). None of my efforts have seems to stop or reduce the RF interference into my system at the drumbox. The owner has let me know that they wirelessly beam their Wifi from the main building out to the rehearsal room (across the parking lot). So my guess is that this might be the cause. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance! Cheers, Pete PS there is much more info on my tutorial, but these two diagrams show the bulk of the project: And here are my attempts at protecting with copper tapped box and wrapped GND wires:

Hello everyone, I'm a beginner. I've made a pair of microphones using the Primo EM273 for my Sony A6600 camera. Recently, I bought a Zoom H6 recorder, so I need an adapter to connect the microphones. I've searched many options (such as the BOYA 35C-XLR Pro, RODE VXLR+, R?DE VXLR Pro, etc.), but they are too expensive. After searching for a long time, I found this one, priced at only $7.5. It's made in Guangdong. The seller said it has a balanced output.I opened it up and took some photos, but I don't really understand circuits. Although it looks a bit strange in shape.Could you please help me determine if it's worth it? Thank you.

Hi to everyone, I'm trying to build a Zapnspark's generic Fet preamp, as small as possible, hence SMD components, used with various 3-wire Primo capsules like EM200,EM273,EM182. I want to use them mostly at live concerts, so output impedance, maxSPL-headroom, EMI/RF immunity and low noise are important factors for me. The point of this build is to fit the PCB inside the XLR plug.The whole board i designed is 24.2mm x 12mm. Ideally i'd like to fit also a 3pin mini-XLR on the other end(it will need some modification on the XLR's boot). I have a few questions about this design. 1) Can you spot any error on the PCB or the selected components? 2) Would 22nf ceramic caps between pins 1-2 and 1-3 add additional EMI/RF immunity, with no drawbacks? 3) Could i replaced the 2 BC860Cs with a dual PNP like SSM2220 or relevant, in order to avoid hfe matching and reducing size? Should i expect the same performance? 4) Primo capsules seems to give the least noise and highest maxSPL figures, when biased at roughly 9v. Is it just R2 and R5 which will change the Bias voltage? Any suggestion are welcome. I'll post my Fusion-Eagle project for inspection and reference, Eagle Library, and my Mouser basket. Mouser basket: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e3dd5d0951 I think it would be a great simple project for this community, if implemented right. Thanks in advance, Raptakis Konstantinos

hi all - i've noticed a number of "homemade hydrophone" plans online - and i've seen a whole host of commercial hydrophone products out there. i'm curious if anyone can speak about the differences between a "five dollar DIY" plasti-dipped contact mic and a $5,0000 science grade nautical device? thanks, cx

A few years back I bought some EM172s to use with my Zoom H5. More recently I've been lucky enough to pick up a lightly used MixPre6ii. I've been using the 172s with no problems, but thought I would go back and check the R value to make sure it was optimised for the MP. I soldered an XLR to some header pins to make it easier to test things on a breadboard and was alarmed at the results. Wiring is as follows: Pin1 - resistor Pin 2 - capacitor +ve Pin three to what would be the +ve terminal on the mic The -ve cap lead goes to the other resistor terminal. I played with values of R until going all the way to 1MOhm which gives a reading of 7-8v which fluctuates a lot. As a side note with the negative lead of the cap connected to pin 2 V was ~34v so I sawpped it to be positive to pin 2 This doesn't seem to be even remotely close to the previous results in the PDF that Richard Lee created. Am I missing something?

Hi MicBuilders! I'm new to this group. Many greetings and hello to everybody! I would like to give it a try to build a special 'Sound Sleuth Bamboo' version. The aim is to achieve the most natural-sounding recording possible in combination with natural and sustainable materials. Like bamboo! :-) I'm wondering if anyone could give any advice regarding the optimal selection of electronic components. Is the article at Instructables still the way to go? Or are there any improvements or changes I should know about before I start ordering parts? I really love to work with bamboo from time to time but I'm not so familiar with electronic circuit board design. Sound Sleuth looks so simple. Is it really that simple? How is the recording quality? To give you an idea of what the sleuth bamboo version may (or better not) look like, I would like to send you some pictures of a prototype bamboo mic holder that I built two years ago and that has served me well. The holder can be attached to a long bamboo pole if necessary, to record closer to the tree top. The orange strap is a replacement strap for an 8mm film projector. which was not expensive and works just fine. The microphone is a Sony ECM-678 that I found in a junk corner of a reuse store with a 'No tone' sticker on it. It works well again. My image of the mic housing for nature recordings is a kind of bamboo blip(upright), which can be attached to bamboo poles to record more close to the roof top without disturbing the environment too much. Perhaps leaning against a tree and fastened. Available recording devices: Sony PCM-M10 or USB powered audio interface with phantom power. If you are interested in listening to sounds I recorded, you can find some on the YT-channel I recently started at: https://www.youtube.com/@NaturePattern (created for fun...no monetizing...no commercials...). In case you have any questions, don't hesitate to drop me a note. Or if you need any information about bamboo. As for the design of the bamboo housed microphone circuit board, it would be great if someone could point me in the right direction. Many thanks! Heinz (amateur photographer, field recordist, hobbyist, former SysEng...respecting the diversity of nature...)

I happened upon Boya 35C-XLR, 3,5 mm jack to XLR adapters and they are inexpensive (around 10 USD), full metal (aluminium) and well made. There are two versions: one, shorter - 58 mm, just plain 3,5 mm socket wired straight to XLR plug and, longer ("PRO") - 68 mm, with a PCB inside providing 48V to the 3,5 mm socket. They make for a really great mic body. Being metal nicely shield the capsule and are really sturdy. I mounted AOMs 5024 in them, powered by SimpleP48 and they work great. The thing is they're bear to disassemble. Therefore one need to have basic tools and some technical dexterity. One - the aluminium fine threads have nasty tendency to lock up. Two - there is a bit of thread glue used.. I had to make jigs/holders to squeeze both halves really strong to unscrew the body. Simple but necessary. Made from scraps of MDF I had laying around, the cutouts (22 mm hole saw) covered in thin layer of silicone. One jig is clamped in the vice, the other by carpenter's clamp. A sharp hammer tap on the clamp breaks the bond and the halves can be unscrewed. (I scratched the first adapter with hand grips even through some leather and rubber band). For the 3,5 mm socket I use a remover for broken bolts. Sure, it ruins the socket but I do not need it. Otherwise its thin edge is almost impossible to grip. Then the hole left by the socket must be drilled out to 10,5 mm. No deeper than 5,5-6 mm! AOM capsule in thick heat shrink plus a bit (~1/4 turn) of electrical tape fits nicely and securely. From then on everything else is straightforward - unsolder all original wires, solder together all of the numerous components of the SimpleP48, remember to thread wires from the capsule through the plastic collar needed to hold XLR plug in place, forget about it, desolder wires, thread through the collar cursing one's own stupidity, solder to the XLR plug, twist the top (with the capsule) counter-clockwise several turns before screwing both halves together. It takes good several turns to screw it all together - you do not want to rear out the wires. Done! If you do not mind the BOYA logo on the side and do not want to hunt for LOMs - they're pretty nifty mics.