They should not touch.
Jack, W8TEE
On Sunday, March 3, 2019, 8:49:26 PM EST, John Sutter <jds@...> wrote:
Sorry if you've already answered this.
It looks your 3.3V and 5V regulator heat sinks are shorting.
Did you use an insulator on the 3.3V regulator?
John
W1JDS
On 3/3/2019 5:44 PM, James Zdunic wrote:
What I can tell you is the 3.3v reg gets quite hot with the 7”
display. ?The heat sink shown in the photo below gets so hot you
can’t touch it for more than a second or two before the hot stove
sensation sets in. 
The 5v reg hardly warms up the heat sink.
Jim ?KM4TXR
|
Thanks for the tip. ?I didn’t realize the heat sink tab is Vout on 3v regulators. ?I placed a piece of rubber between them until I get an insulator for it.
Jim ?KM4TXR
On Mar 3, 2019, at 9:05 PM, PeteWK8S via Groups.Io < pmeier@...> wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You should insulate the 3.3V regulator’s tab from the heat sink including the screw.?
On Mar 3, 2019, at 6:49 PM, John Sutter < jds@...> wrote:
Sorry if you've already answered this.
It looks your 3.3V and 5V regulator heat sinks are shorting.
Did you use an insulator on the 3.3V regulator?
John
W1JDS
On 3/3/2019 5:44 PM, James Zdunic wrote:
What I can tell you is the 3.3v reg gets quite hot with the 7” display. ?The heat sink shown in the photo below gets so hot you can’t touch it for more than a second or two before the hot
stove sensation sets in.<FF7C50BA_6666_431C_9EF8_A01940D2F7D6.jpeg>
The 5v reg hardly warms up the heat sink.
Jim ?KM4TXR
|
You should insulate the 3.3V regulator’s tab from the heat sink including the screw.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 3, 2019, at 6:49 PM, John Sutter < jds@...> wrote:
Sorry if you've already answered this.
It looks your 3.3V and 5V regulator heat sinks are shorting.
Did you use an insulator on the 3.3V regulator?
John
W1JDS
On 3/3/2019 5:44 PM, James Zdunic wrote:
What I can tell you is the 3.3v reg gets quite hot with the 7”
display. ?The heat sink shown in the photo below gets so hot you
can’t touch it for more than a second or two before the hot stove
sensation sets in.<FF7C50BA_6666_431C_9EF8_A01940D2F7D6.jpeg>
The 5v reg hardly warms up the heat sink.
Jim ?KM4TXR
|
Sorry if you've already answered this.
It looks your 3.3V and 5V regulator heat sinks are shorting.
Did you use an insulator on the 3.3V regulator?
John
W1JDS
On 3/3/2019 5:44 PM, James Zdunic wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
What I can tell you is the 3.3v reg gets quite hot with the 7”
display. ?The heat sink shown in the photo below gets so hot you
can’t touch it for more than a second or two before the hot stove
sensation sets in.
The 5v reg hardly warms up the heat sink.
Jim ?KM4TXR
|
What I can tell you is the 3.3v reg gets quite hot with the 7” display. ?The heat sink shown in the photo below gets so hot you can’t touch it for more than a second or two before the hot stove sensation sets in.  The 5v reg hardly warms up the heat sink. Jim ?KM4TXR
|
Both of the regulators are linear and get hot.? The heat could be better dissipated with a series resister with a heat sink to the chassis.? PCB's don't do well with heat coupled to them (via the device leads).? If the 5V reg could stand the extra current, it might be better to source the 3V power from the 5V instead of 12V.
I would have measured it myself but I am still inquiring parts and have not started the build.? I also might wait for the revised manual to make it an easier task.
John N2NOL
|
It is not very likely anyone has measured the current draw from the 5v and 3.3v regulators because you would have to take them out of the jackal circuit to add an any amp measuring device between them and the circuits they provide power to.
Just curious, why you are asking?
|
Has anyone measured the 12V current, 5V current & 3V? current?
John
N2NOL
|
Re: Board powered up - Display works but touches not detected
Did you run the display calibration routine and did you cut the 5V trace on the Teensy?
Jack, W8TEE
On ?Sunday?, ?March? ?3?, ?2019? ?10?:?47?:?23? ?AM? ?EST, Benjamin Von Handorf <von.handorf@...> wrote:
Due to not having a right-angle USB adapter (yet) I had to program the teensy off the board, which resulted in it rebooting and thinking it had done the calibration already.?
I've now reprogrammed it and forced the first-time calibration routine with the display connected but I'm getting the "Time too short" message each time.? I'm debugging the issue now, it looks like `touched()` is returning 0 after one pass through the loop in `GetTouchCoordinates2`.? I'll follow up when I've figured out more.
-Ben
|
Re: Mounting teensy and audio board Jackal Board
Remind me again of the issue...I've slept since then.
Jack, W8TEE
On ?Sunday?, ?March? ?3?, ?2019? ?12?:?38?:?29? ?PM? ?EST, Fast hosts <beneagles71@...> wrote:
Jack Hi, did you manage to clarify the procedure Kevin outlined before your trip to Florida?
Regards
M6OLP Keith Baker
|
Re: Mounting teensy and audio board Jackal Board
Jack Hi, did you manage to clarify the procedure Kevin outlined before your trip to Florida?
Regards
M6OLP Keith Baker
|
Re: Board powered up - Display works but touches not detected
Due to not having a right-angle USB adapter (yet) I had to program the teensy off the board, which resulted in it rebooting and thinking it had done the calibration already.?
I've now reprogrammed it and forced the first-time calibration routine with the display connected but I'm getting the "Time too short" message each time.? I'm debugging the issue now, it looks like `touched()` is returning 0 after one pass through the loop in `GetTouchCoordinates2`.? I'll follow up when I've figured out more.
-Ben
|
Hello Mile,
Thank you for mentioning this to try and help me. This is no longer an issue for me and I figured I’d post up the findings to close the loop on this:
I spoke with Al about my measurements and after checking a few things concluded that there was nothing wrong. ?The near 12v readings were simply floating voltages in open circuits because the CPU wasn’t installed. ?This was determined by using an ohm meter
and measuring back to the 12v supply circuit which did not show and low resistance.
Jim KM4TXR
On Mar 3, 2019, at 8:51 AM, jjpurdum via Groups.Io < jjpurdum@...> wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Sorry Mike, I thought we posted that correction. I'll check into it.
Jack, W8TEE
On Sunday, March 3, 2019, 8:50:03 AM EST, Mike WA7EXH < linse@...> wrote:
I've just started gathering the parts for this project, but I noticed a detail that might be a factor in your measurements.
The Bag of Parts file contains the following line. This is also what appears on page 26 of the current version, ver 16, of manual section 2:
|
5V, 1.5A voltage regulator, TO-220
|
LM7812CT/NOPB-ND?
(Digikey)
|
Please note that the LM7812 is NOT a 5V regulator, it's a 12V regulator. If you used the LM7812 instead of an LM7805, which IS a 5V regulator, then you might see approximately the voltage that you measured. This would exceed the Teensy's supply voltage spec.
Also in version 16 of manual section 2, on page 32, is a schematic section called "Voltage Regulators", which shows that Teensy +5V should come from an LM7805, not an LM7812.
I haven't found an LM7812 anywhere in the schematics. Make sure you've got an LM7805 and not an LM7812 at U2, the 5V REGULATOR location on the board. Also note that the BOM on page 25 has the +5v regulator listed as U4 rather than U2 as shown on the schematic.
My JackAl board doesn't show the U1, U2 part numbers in the legends that are printed on the circuit board- These locations are identified as "5V REGULATOR" and "3.3V REGULATOR".
U1, the +3.3V regulator, is shown in the schematic as an LM1117-33, but the 3.3V regulator in the part list of pate 26 is given as an LM1086-3.3. These are interchangeable, with same pinout and same noise spec, and slightly better input ripple rejection for
the LM1117-3.3.
|
Yes. Al is an accomplished photography buff (he shot the cover photo for the November, 2018, issue of QST) and we are re-shooting much of the directions for building JackAl...especially the construction of the cables! We know there are sections where we need more guidance, and we think we will make the new manual much better. The good news is that I'm doing the build for V5 and, since I have less construction talents than Al, we're identifying trip-spots in the manual. The bad news is that I'm doing the build for V5.
We'd be much further along if I wasn't having issues with a menuing class I'm writing the Morse Code Tutor project that will be the subject of a paper I'll be giving at the Four Days In May (FDIM) conference. Last Thursday I got an email from the organizer that said the papers were due March 1. (Thursday was Feb. 28th!) Hell, I didn't even have the code done, let alone a prototype that I could center the paper around. Needless to say, that derailed the V5 build and photo shoot that Al and I are working on. I told the FDIM people my paper would be late...I have a feeling I wasn't the only one...so Al and I are back to work.
We'll keep you all posted.
Jack, W8TEE
On Sunday, March 3, 2019, 2:31:26 AM EST, Kevin Luxford <kbgluxford@...> wrote:
Hello Jack, While you and Al are weaving your magic tomorrow, will you also be updating your docs for the V5 uBITX board?? Just asking.
73
Kevin VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
(Missing the big rainbow trout in Lake Taupo, in ZL.)
--
? Kevin B. G. Luxford
--
73
Kevin VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
|
Sorry Mike, I thought we posted that correction. I'll check into it.
Jack, W8TEE
On Sunday, March 3, 2019, 8:50:03 AM EST, Mike WA7EXH <linse@...> wrote:
I've just started gathering the parts for this project, but I noticed a detail that might be a factor in your measurements. The Bag of Parts file contains the following line. This is also what appears on page 26 of the current version, ver 16, of manual section 2:
|
5V, 1.5A voltage regulator, TO-220
|
LM7812CT/NOPB-ND? (Digikey)
|
Please note that the LM7812 is NOT a 5V regulator, it's a 12V regulator. If you used the LM7812 instead of an LM7805, which IS a 5V regulator, then you might see approximately the voltage that you measured. This would exceed the Teensy's supply voltage spec.
Also in version 16 of manual section 2, on page 32, is a schematic section called "Voltage Regulators", which shows that Teensy +5V should come from an LM7805, not an LM7812.
I haven't found an LM7812 anywhere in the schematics. Make sure you've got an LM7805 and not an LM7812 at U2, the 5V REGULATOR location on the board. Also note that the BOM on page 25 has the +5v regulator listed as U4 rather than U2 as shown on the schematic.
My JackAl board doesn't show the U1, U2 part numbers in the legends that are printed on the circuit board- These locations are identified as "5V REGULATOR" and "3.3V REGULATOR".
U1, the +3.3V regulator, is shown in the schematic as an LM1117-33, but the 3.3V regulator in the part list of pate 26 is given as an LM1086-3.3. These are interchangeable, with same pinout and same noise spec, and slightly better input ripple rejection for the LM1117-3.3.
|
I've just started gathering the parts for this project, but I noticed a detail that might be a factor in your measurements. The Bag of Parts file contains the following line. This is also what appears on page 26 of the current version, ver 16, of manual section 2:
|
5V, 1.5A voltage regulator, TO-220
|
LM7812CT/NOPB-ND? (Digikey)
|
Please note that the LM7812 is NOT a 5V regulator, it's a 12V regulator. If you used the LM7812 instead of an LM7805, which IS a 5V regulator, then you might see approximately the voltage that you measured. This would exceed the Teensy's supply voltage spec.
Also in version 16 of manual section 2, on page 32, is a schematic section called "Voltage Regulators", which shows that Teensy +5V should come from an LM7805, not an LM7812.
I haven't found an LM7812 anywhere in the schematics. Make sure you've got an LM7805 and not an LM7812 at U2, the 5V REGULATOR location on the board. Also note that the BOM on page 25 has the +5v regulator listed as U4 rather than U2 as shown on the schematic.
My JackAl board doesn't show the U1, U2 part numbers in the legends that are printed on the circuit board- These locations are identified as "5V REGULATOR" and "3.3V REGULATOR".
U1, the +3.3V regulator, is shown in the schematic as an LM1117-33, but the 3.3V regulator in the part list of pate 26 is given as an LM1086-3.3. These are interchangeable, with same pinout and same noise spec, and slightly better input ripple rejection for the LM1117-3.3.
|
Hello Jack, While you and Al are weaving your magic tomorrow, will you also be updating your docs for the V5 uBITX board? Just asking.
73
Kevin VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
(Missing the big rainbow trout in Lake Taupo, in ZL.)
--
Kevin B. G. Luxford
kbgluxford@...
--
73
Kevin VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
|
Re: Board powered up - Display works but touches not detected
Are you using the latest version of the software? Al changed the way the display calibration routine works about two weeks ago.
Jack, W8TEE
On Saturday, March 2, 2019, 9:35:07 PM EST, Benjamin Von Handorf <von.handorf@...> wrote:
I've finally completed all the cabling (except the RF to and from the uBITX) and I'm working my way through the initial checkout instructions.
I'm at the point where I've plugged in the displays and encoders and brought the JackAL board online (with lots of heat sinking on the 3.3V regulator... that one gets hot fast!) and the splash screen was a welcome sight.? My encoders are working, but I can't get the touch screen to detect anything.??
At first I thought it might be a calibration issue, but I've attempted touching all over the screen and so far haven't seen any indication that anything is being detected.
Any suggestions for debugging the touch screen?
Thanks,
-Ben
|
Board powered up - Display works but touches not detected
I've finally completed all the cabling (except the RF to and from the uBITX) and I'm working my way through the initial checkout instructions.
I'm at the point where I've plugged in the displays and encoders and brought the JackAL board online (with lots of heat sinking on the 3.3V regulator... that one gets hot fast!) and the splash screen was a welcome sight.? My encoders are working, but I can't get the touch screen to detect anything.??
At first I thought it might be a calibration issue, but I've attempted touching all over the screen and so far haven't seen any indication that anything is being detected.
Any suggestions for debugging the touch screen?
Thanks,
-Ben
|
Al had a fix for that, but I've slept since then, so I don't remember what the fix was. Check the voltage, as I think it was low on the one that got better as it warmed up. I'll pass this on to Al. (He's more productive than I am and one reason is he doesn't read all of his emails!)
Jack, W8TEE
On Saturday, March 2, 2019, 4:20:08 PM EST, Rick Price <rickprice48@...> wrote:
I have two 5" displays and they both work were wired per the
docs and work, although one has a very bad noise bar down the center of the
screen which slowly dissipates as it warms up, but never really
disappears.? My displays were purchased last June, perhaps they are
shipping? displays with two different interfaces. Maybe others will have
more input.
?
Rick KN4AIE
No display and no Teensy LED indicator. ??
Began with a 7” display and it worked fine per instructions. ?Then
tryed 5” per actual photo in manual and the above happened.?
Pulled up both data sheets and confirmed the?working 7”
display was using the interrupt pin on JP3.?
The interrupt pin on the 5” is located as my photo
shows (red wire) on the 5” which is JP3, pin 10.
Jim KM4TXR
On Mar 2, 2019, at 2:58 PM, PeteWK8S via Groups.Io < pmeier@...>
wrote:
What were your symptoms using Jacks Interrupt pin?
Interesting, ?on the display here it would only work as shown.
?This display could have a problem I suppose, I’ll leave that up to the
experts to determine.
Jim KM4TXR
On Mar 2, 2019, at 2:32 PM, PeteWK8S via Groups.Io < pmeier@...>
wrote:
From my experience it works both ways.?
The documentation regarding wiring the 5” display has some
issues. ?It took some reverse engineering to determine the correct
wiring should look like
this...
<8C69DA4A_D19F_4E72_91F6_AD32CC68A0C7.jpeg>
Jim
KM4TXR
|
jjpurdum