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Well I went ahead and tackled the removal of the HT-32B SSB Generator Sub-Chassis. Not as bad as I thought it would be. It came out relatively easy. I had one 1/4" head machine screw that was holding the rear left corner of the SSB Generator in place and it was so close to the Power Transformer I couldn't get a nut driver on it. A wrench was out of the question since that screw was in a small space between the unit and the side wall of the rig. I was lucky and I could loosen the four nuts holding down the transformer and move it over slightly to just get one of my nut drivers on it. The meter remains in place on the front panel and I simply removed the wiring terminals that went to it. The MIC connector also remains attached to the front panel. So the front panel is only tilted forward and lays on a towel on the bench. The Meter Compression potentiometer bracket assembly is also removed from the front side of the Generator sub-chassis. It has no wires that go to the Generator, only wires to the meter and one going under to the main chassis. Here is the SSB Generator removed with the cover off. You can see the dual 10uF 350V Electrolytic (C7) on the right side. I will replace C7. Of equally great importance is the fact I see two of the ever famous Bumble Bee caps in the upper center. Those along with another three on the main chassis will see mandatory replacement! Overall I am happy I removed this subchassis. I will replace those mandatory components mentioned and get everything back together ASAP. I don't want to leave the transmitter siting without the front panel for to long. The goal is do the electrical work, some cleaning and back in place before addressing the main transmitter chassis work. This is the only picture of the inside of the HT-32B's SSB Generator that I've seen outside the small B&W version in the Hallicrafters manual. Enjoy es 73 Don N9OO

Does anyone know if the HT-32B SSB Generator subchassis can be removed without removing the front panel? On my restoration I want to replace, at least, C7 a dual 10uF 350V Electrolytic, Sadly the screws that hold on the cover of this sub-unit can not be removed with the unit inside the transmitter. I got this picture off the web of K3MSB's HT-32 disassembled. As you can see they have elongated holes on the chassis to allow the SSB Generator to be swung out from the top side after removing four 1/4" nut head machine screws. I'm afraid to say I don't think it will be possibly to perform this swing routine without removing that front panel (Power transformer is in the way). K3MSB's Picture (HT-32) Just wanting to confirm with the experienced among you. I plan on taking many pictures along the way for future documenting on the web too. BTW, I'm not afraid to remove the front panel. It looks easy too. 73 Don N9OO

Sorry in advance if this has already been done. I know people will often connect up a VOM to measure the voltage drop across the 10 ohm resistor in the PS-120 or PS-500 power supplies to monitor the Plate idle current. As most know 0.7V for an equivalent 70mA current. I was contemplating a noninvasive method to provide a better ‘almost’ direct plate current measurement. By noninvasive, I mean using the same 10 ohm resistor in the power supplies via their Tip Jack connections. Then it dawned on me, I have a decent assortment of meters, so why not use a 0-500uA meter and simply divert 1/1000th of the current going through that 10 ohm resistor. Robbing 1/1000th your plate current will go without notice under normal operation. For 200mA of plate current I’d be diverting 0.2mA of current, barely noticeable. Found a nice vintage Triplett 500uA FS DC meter in my junk box. It was actually NIB! The schematic couldn’t be simpler. I have essentially around 10K of adjustable resistance in series with the meter and it gets connected to the same power supply TIP jacks that everyone uses to monitor the idle & plate current (via voltage). Even though the schematic shows a 5K fixed resistor and a 5K pot, I naturally used a 4.7K resistor and a 10K series connected (recommended) pot. Ain't much current going through these components so high wattage is not of concern. Calibration is supper easy. Either using a DC power supply or even a low voltage, one to three volt, battery connect the meter circuits leads to the DC source. Then adjust the pot to correspond to which you measure with either your VOM or better yet with a decently accurate DMM. So for a battery that measures 1.5VDC you would set the meter to read 150. Once adjusted it will never need adjustment again! I installed the meter in a case, I also had lying around, and painted it in a similar two tone Hallicrafters gray, or the best I could get using off-the-shelf spray paint. Notice, I just added a decal to the front of the meter face that indicates the reading is X1000. So 70 on the meter is 70mA, 200 is 200mA, etc. No more old VOM’s needed and I have a continuous noninvasive method for monitoring the plate current on my personal SR-150 transceiver. 73 Don N9OO

Here's a question that is of general interest to me. What was the first and last Hallicrafters radio (Receiver or Transceiver) that had a flywheel incorporated into the main frequency tuning? I do recall in High school our SX-28 indeed had it. My SX-115 has it (matching HT-32B too). Did any of the SR series transceivers or later SX-receivers have a flywheel hidden inside? 73 Don N9OO

I just posted the following 2 ads on QTH and thought that ops on this server could be the Better solution: SEE ATTACHED PIX: A S-76 RECEIVER on top at 46lbs with the right most large microvolt/S-meter glass removed and the mechanicals of the meter/indicator shot. Cosmetically pretty beat; bottom front case rust, but no internal penetration. Was capable of 538khz thru 34 mhz in its day. will need work! No abuse, dampness, smoking, pets. JUST old $50.00 BO and S/H FEDEX ground or PICKUP via NU2W at QRZ or ARRL SEE ALL OTHER NU2W ADS----NO PAYPAL! The bottom rig is the HT-37 XMITER at 80 lbs and was capable of 100 watts cw/ssb and 25 am on 10,14,20,40,80... Ok/nice cosmetics.... clean and very repairable. All dial tuning/bedspread controls work smoothly as well as other pots, swts, toggles No abuse, dampness, smoking, pets. JUST old $135.00 BO and S/H FEDEX ground or PICKUP via NU2W at QRZ or ARRL SEE ALL OTHER NU2W ADS----NO PAYPAL! ALL offers considered and replied to. TU and 73 STAY SAFE AND STAY WELL! Respectfully, Thomas K. Lanieri, NU2W NJ DOH Licensed EMT; PHTLS, AMLS, PHPEC Millenium EMS ARC N.E. BioMedical Services ARC N.E. Disaster Cycle Services

Did you know this is officially, Mores Code day? Walt Cates, WD0GOF https://wd0gof.com/Hallicrafters A majority of acceptance is not proof of correctness. https://wd0gof.com/bible-study/commentaries/

This is a long shot, but I need the S meter for the SX-23 I've restored. It looks like maybe a fairly standard round meter could be made to work. It's a 1mA full scale type, however I've discovered that the original seems to have mechanical zero on the right instead of the left. That is, the maximum current through the meter is when the RF signal is at minimum. As the RF signal increases, the meter current goes down. Does anyone have any info on this meter, or better, have one laying around? Barring that, how about any ideas on how I could get some kind of meter into this radio which looks decent and is functional? Thanks, Nick W1NJC

Hello all, this being my first post here. I recently acquired a Hallicrafters S40-B receiver from a dear friend who went SK. I had promised to restore it for him, so even though he is gone, I'll keep my promise. From the looks of it it's all original with no one ever having been inside it, unused for unknown amount of time. Manufactured Nov. 17, 1952. Even had the original manual in it. So what you see is 1952 dirt and a lot of old paper caps, etc. I'm an old timer, licensed in 1963, so tube rigs are not new to me. I have not plugged it in yet, and yes, I know all about Dim-Bulb-Testers, Variacs, etc. I have analog and digital meters, AF and RF generators, O'Scope, tube testers, etc. Just looking for some up front advice from anyone who has been down this path before with this or similar Hallicrafters receivers, what to watch out for, anything special to think about? Thank you, 73, Richard AG5M